Twin Talks: Azur – Luxury Sustainability from the South of France

07.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Images courtesy of Andreas Lumineau

Late last year graphic design & textile design duo Lisa Favreau and Lisa Guedel-Dolle launched their luxury sustainable brand from the coast of Marseille, France. Dubbed AZUR, the brand prides itself in the design and production of high quality fashionable clothing and accessories using processes and techniques which are ethically and environmentally compatible. Each piece is made from a mix of natural fibres, antique 20th century textiles and luxury materials sourced in France. Textiles and buttons are naturally dyed with with plants, labels are made in Italy from recycled plastic bottles & packaging is crafted from recycled & recyclable textiles. The scale of production is closely monitored to match demand and to ensure that each garment pockets its own unique story with fabrics that hold their own history. Twin sat down with the design duo, to find out some more about their process. 

What sparked the idea of launching a sustainable brand ?

During the past years we were less and less comfortable with the fact that what we were doing was often too far from our beliefs. We thought that we could use our creative skills and energy for a more positive purpose. Step by step the project started to take shape in our minds.

Long before turning into a clothing project, Azur was first and foremost a strong desire to change the way we were working and creating, to go towards more sustainable practices. At first we didn’t know if it was going to turn into objects, furniture or pieces of clothing. Making truly ethical and eco-conscious clothing ended up being the most challenging of them all. 

Why did you decide on naming the brand Azur ? 

Azur is the color that is often described as the color of the sky on a clear day.

We were deeply touched by the way Paul Virilio, a french philosopher, evokes nature and colours while talking about l’azur:

«L’azur c’est l’épaisseur optique de l’atmosphère, la grande lentille du globe terrestre, sa brillante rétine. De l’outremer à l’outre-ciel, l’horizon départage la transparence de l’opacité. De la matière-terre à l’espace-lumière, il n’y a qu’un pas, celui du bond ou de l’envol capables de nous affranchir un instant de la gravité.» 

Paul Virilio in La vitesse de la libération.

We also liked that Azur is a much-used word in south of France for any kind of brand or business. It gives the brand a déjà vu feeling while remaining quite mysterious and poetic. 

How long did it take to create an entire collection using completely sustainable techniques and materials? 

To avoid overproduction and enhance existing raw materials, we source high quality natural antique fabrics woven in France in early 20th century. Fabrics and buttons are naturally hand-dyed with dye plants by us in our studio, using no chemicals or heavy metal. Our 100% cotton thread and natural corozo buttons are made by the last French sewing thread mill and the last button manufacturer in France. Except our labels which are made in Italy from recycled plastic bottles, we avoid any plastic. The lining of our clothes is made of cotton without glue and our packaging is made in France with recycled and recyclable materials. Each piece is sewn in Marseille by our prototypist or a garment workshop run by a mother and daughter. Our silk pieces are hand-pleated in Marseille in an atelier running by two sisters and own by their family since 1937. Everything is made by us, craftsmen or small companies located as close as possible from Marseille.

Every step of the production process is meticulously watched out by the two of us, to be fundamentally respectful of the environment and others.

It took about a year to set up our sourcing and production processes : finding the best materials, the right partners and finally the proper way to combine them all. 

Once all these parameters settled, create an entire collection made in a sustainable way sure takes a longer time than in an ordinary way, but still allows to create a full collection, even in significant quantities. 

What was the most difficult part of the process ? 

Trying to be fundamentally respectful of the environment and people impact a lot our designs and the creative direction of our brand in general. The major part of our creative result is inherent to the artisanal process and the sustainable approach we have set up.

The sourcing of our raw materials is the biggest constraint and restricts many of our desires. We have to reverse the usual creative process. First we list what and how we can produce following our ethos, and then, we start the creative process. 

It was important to us to make clothes that you can keep for a long time and make compatible to every wardrobe. We create mainly unisex pieces, with simple cuts but unique details, which can fit most bodies. 

We are aware that not everything can be produced within our constraints, which can be frustrating sometimes, but which is also really challenging and exciting. 

Do you think the industry in general is on its way to becoming less wasteful?

People are now more aware and concerned about the environmental issues, and big brands have to follow this movement and adapt themselves to the new consumers expectations. Most of the time it’s unfortunately more about their image rather than real commitments.

On an other hand, many independents and emerging fashion brands are really active and aware when it comes to sustainability, and are opening a new path. Through Azur we hope to show in some way that you can make truly eco-conscious and ethical clothes that can also be luxurious.  

No one has the perfect formula, and both makers and designers should work together to build fairer and cleaner making processes.

How many collections can we expect a year from Azur?

We don’t follow the exact same calendar as the fashion industry. We will launch 2 collections per year, and the rest of the time will be punctuated by few drops, according to our desires and fabrics we find.

Where can one buy the products? 

You can buy the collection online on our website at azur.world

In February we will move into an atelier-boutique where you will be able to see and try the collection and unique pieces that will not be available online. The address is 19 rue du Chevalier Roze, 13002 Marseille, France. We’re currently working on supplying to shops internationally for our next few collection. 

Keep up with the brand via instagram on @AzurWorld 

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Fendi Botanical Wonder ft. Timmy Xu

07.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

In Fendi’s latest episode for their Peekaboo series, the Italian fashion house taps Chinese singer/actor & FENDI spokesperson Timmy Xu.  In a bucolic dialogue between man and nature, Xu immerses himself on a journey through nature as he travels from the FENDI catwalk into luscious greenery, peekaboo bag in hand. He clutches the model from the SS20 collection made from perforated lather panel combined with mink intarsia, a display of the perfect balance of sophistication of functionality. The Fendi peekaboo bag is currently available online.    

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Jil Sander SS20 Campaign – A Scenic Italian Roadtrip

06.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Jil Sander creative directors Lucie and Luke Meier went on an Italian road trip with photographer Olivier Kervern for their latest SS20 Campaign. Set before the scenic views of the island of Sicily , the photographer captures the beauty in key elements of the landscape shared with the duo’s intricate work.

“The beauty in the balance of conflicting yet complementary elements that runs throughout Lucie & Luke Meiers work at Jil Sander has here one of its mirrors. Harmony within opposites, open fields and Baroque, fluid and sculptural forms, masculine and feminine, concrete and lace. Archetypes, ascetic and voluptuous.”

 In the campaign , both male and female models are shot sporting key pieces from the collection which aid in creating ardent moments of emotion and poetic movement.  The Jil Sander SS20 collection will soon be available online

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Gucci x Disney New Year Capsule Collection

02.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Not long ago, Gucci announced their second collaboration with Walt Disney in preparation for the Chinese New Year 2020.  In celebration of 2020 — the Year of the Mouse, the partnership sees a lineup of Mickey Mouse branded goods fused with the signature Gucci aesthetic.  A stand out piece being the GG logo canvas coat features all-over miniature Mickeys, tracks suits, jumpers, bag packs, purses, bucket hats and sneakers feature similar designs. 

Just in time for the new year, the Italian brand also released the accompanying campaign featuring some signature Gucci faces and the mascot himself staged at Disneyland.  Shot by Harmony Korine, the campaign captures moments of an adventurous day between rollacoasters, tea-cup rides and cotton candy on the grounds of the most magical place on earth.  The Disney x Gucci capsule collection is set to be released on January 3rd online and select stores worldwide. 

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“The Hoodie” – An exhibition by the Het Nieuwe Instituut

14.12.2019 | Art , Blog , Culture , Fashion | BY:

If one was to compose a list of the most political articles of clothing in modern day fashion, the hoodie would undoubtedly be in the top five of that line up. The garment which went through it’s prime evolution period with Champion in the 1930’s has grown to tell a variety of several narratives including perspectives in music, subculture, androgyny, gender fluidity and most pressingly tales of social equality. Throughout the past two decades with the aid of the media, the hoodie has come to be accused as the narrators in many cases of police brutality & racism. 

“The Hoodie” exhibition, recently opened at the Het Nieuwe Instituut Rotterdam curated by water and curator Lou Stoppard is an in-depth mixed media showcase involving artworks, garments, printed matter, digital footage, social media posts and other cultural artefacts to tell the story of the garment’s history in society.

It explores and examines conversation themes which enable its viewer to consider and reflect on the hoodie’s complicated relationship with contemporary culture from streetwear icon to workwear to political garment. It features work from a lineup of seminal artists and photographers including David Hammons , Campbell Addy, Sasha Huber, John Edmonds & Lucy Orta as well as brands such as Rick Owens, Off-White, VETEMENETS and Vexed Generation.  The exhibition will run until April 2020 and will also be accompanied by a digital magazine featuring specially commissioned essays, interviews and visuals. 

‘February II, 2019’ by Devan Shimoyama
‘EUnify – Berlin 2019’ by Ari Versluis & Ellie Uyttenbroek,  Exactitudes 168 

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FENDI launches gender FFLUID sneakers

14.12.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

The latest venture of Italian Maison Fendi sees the launch of a model of sneakers suitable for the likes of all genders. The gender fluid design features arch shapes and curved lines that accentuate a signature chunky sole. Its design is crafted from a selection of fabrics including a glossy neoprene or technical mesh for its upper, as well as a tone-tone suede on its body. 

The colour way ranges from white, black to reds and a pop of pink.  The sneaker also features a 35mm heel which subtly adds an extra boost of height. The FENDI FFluid will soon be available in boutiques in a new sporty lace-up version with trekking laces from December 2019. Visit FENDI for more info. 

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“The Mirrors Within” , by Bolade Banjo

03.12.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

Photographer Bolade Banjo recently announced the release of his photographic story “The Mirrors within” in the latest issue of i-D Magazine. The inspiration behind the series stemmed from the work of photographer Anna Puschel’s book Layer of Reality where she explores experiences with the concept of Synesthesia, which is the condition of connecting colours, emotions and memories. From this , the photographer took away the knowledge of how the tonality of colours hold connections to memory and inherit acts as an emotional factor of life. Which is how he began exploring the archive of his reportage shot in the past few years and was able to spot the moments which these patterns had manifested themselves and now had been evident as emotive inspirations for samples of his present day work.  

“I’ve come to understand reflection is a process that allows for personal expansion and greater awareness, something that has taken me some time to accept. Looking back at this rhythmic arrangement. I’m able to connect all these collected moments to navigate the ever-changing world, ” he explains. 

Throughout the series, Banjo takes his audience on a sensorial journey throughout the  concerning nature’s various channel of perceiving memory as he connects moments and images that from a wider view, acts almost as an visual auto-biography of his artistic journey. The full version of the story can be found in i-D Winter issue NO.358 – 2019. 

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Roses – An exhibition by Alexander McQueen

03.12.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Roses : The symbolism of flowers is rooted in the power of nature, is the theme behind Alexander McQueen’s recently opened exhibition at their store on Old Bond Street in London. The showcase has been all curated around two of the brand’s iconic closing pieces designed around the form and energy of flowers. The most recent being the swirling red Rose dress crafted by Sarah Burton which closed the Alexander McQueen Autumn/Winter 2019 show, and the other an intricate dress constructed by Lee Alexander McQueen himself with fresh flower for the end of the Sarabande SS2007 show. 

Throughout the exhibit, the complex shaping of the Red Rose dress is documented through a variety of methods including the showcase of samples and background research as well as a video featuring head of atelier Judy Halil, as she takes us through the step by step process at the McQueen studios. The Sarabande dress, once filled with fresh flowers is now set at the entrance of the showcase, accompanied by other flower inspired pieces from the SS2007 collection as well as gowns with English roses, camellias , exploded carnation-shapes , garden flowers and bees that fill the space. 

Guests are also invited to walk among each piece, pick up each label and discovery the history behind each dress. Roses can be found on the second floor of the Alexander McQueen store and is now open to the public. 

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FENDI’s latest episode of #BaguetteFriendsForever features Netflix’s Sabrina

27.11.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

For the latest episode of their Baguette BFF series, Fendi tapped Kiernan Shipka , star of Netflix series Chilling Adventures of Sabrina , to travel on an adventure around Rome with her best friend, movie director Christian Coppola. 

The short film first sees the actress in her bedroom surrounded by her Baguette Bags, when her attention is suddenly brought to the honk at her window from Christian and his yellow scooter.  From here the duo is filmed exploring the city , eating gelato, tossing coins in the Trevi Fountain and finally to their arrival at Fendi’s Headquarters where they playfully explore the modern architecture of the building. Throughout the trip the Baguette can be spotted in different versions , from the FF embossed large , to a pink & blue pastel mini baguette to the newly added mens baguette in brown leather.

FENDI first launched the campaign #BaguetteFriendsForever earlier this year which included a series of short films featuring the storylines of inseparable groups of friends around the world throughout one of their daily routines which is centred around the iconic Fendi baguette. The first episode was titled “The Baguette is Back” and was an adventure set in the streets of Shanghai China. The second episode Titled “The Missing Baguette,” was shot in Hong Kong. All pieces are currently available in stores worldwide and online, to shop the looks , visit Fendi.

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Colville: Dedicated Vision

26.11.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

The brand that culminated from three relationships founded at Marni is one of beauty, strength and a contemporary elegance.

Colville doesn’t have a brand bio, it has a manifesto: a dedicated vision, that it hopes to instil in those who encounter it. A meeting of three fabulous minds, Colville was consummated from a Venn diagram of insight, expertise and experience. From Lucinda Chambers, the stylist and ex-fashion director of Vogue UK, to the Marni designers Molly Molloy and Kirsten Foss, this is a label that has not entered the market light-handedly. Striding into familiar waters, this time with no obligations, Colville feels like a giant sigh of exhilaration: a long time coming from three impressive women who have spent decades strengthening and celebrating visions. Now they can carve out their own. 

With the name a reference to a street David Hockney frequented in the 1970’s the initial associations are set before one even claps eyes on the clothes. Colour, modernism, a uniqueness of touch and ingenuity of vision: all aspects we see this brand emanating, and thus paying homage to a history of modern art, thus three lives also spent exploring and adoring the arts. It’s a smattering of London too, rooting their designs as a sort of cultured and cool friendliness – the love of a half pint in Francis Bacon’s favourite pub as much as his works that hang in the Tate. 

Colville commenced with an AW19 collection in 2018, a collection of depth and brevity. With graphic hand drawn prints, unexpected shapes, cropped lengths, drawstring tightenings and thickly overlaid silks draped in voluminous and generous furls around the body. 

The woman they design for are neither expected or stereotyped caricatures on the fashion track. Described in their manifesto, they are “hunters and gatherers, odd and individual: so are our women. Building their own reality as a product of the imagination and living it.”

It would be too easy to pull the similarities between Marni and the near-intergalactic jewellery, like proud UFO sculptures, the ruched and determined bold layering of Lucinda’s oft mimicked styling, This would be lazy. Of course, their past will enter this brave new future: after all, they all helped carve Marni’s instantly recognisable aesthetic for so long. 

Talking to the three creators, Colville is only furthered in the mind as an intelligent label, creating collections – exclusive to Matches Fashion – that are joyful celebrations of colour, considered balances of separates, and brave designs of unique jewellery, bags and accessories that not only appeal to women of substance, but push the boundaries out of noteworthy shapes, formulation and aesthetics. Hooray for Colville: a brand that thinks and acts for the woman with brains, culture, art and creativity at her core. 

How has your collated, extensive and reputable experiences resulted in Colville’s aesthetics and the manifesto of the brand?

I think our collated experience has what has helped us shape and  Colville, our collective knowledge and strengths have bought a brand together that we didn’t perhaps expect. We started designing a wardrobe for the 3 of us, really that’s what it came down to. Something for each of us, 3 aesthetics combined.

Why do you call your brand a sum, rather than a mix of ideas?

It’s a sum as it has a unique and distinctive voice and vision of its own, Colville. When we are talking through ideas we often say, that’s very Colville, and we know what that means. It’s a certain freedom of expression, bold and quietly beautiful at the same time, the mix. 

What does Colville draw inspiration from?

We are inspired by anything and everything.

We look at so many corners of life and its offerings to feed our collections. As three working together, it is important for us to be receptive to mixed references.

Tell us about the brand’s inception

We knew we wanted to continue our working relationships when we all left Marni. We couldn’t imagine not continuing our creative collaboration, it made sense and then suddenly one day we are doing it on our own and it’s growing!

Do you feel there are paradoxes at play in your collections?

Yes probably purely for the fact that we are 3 women with different aesthetic tastes that come together. We can do a tailored coat in black but then we love a drawstring bold floral print dress. We all see the point of each other’s ideas; I think that mix is what makes us unique and perhaps paradoxical.

Is Colville a direct manifestation of art and culture?

 I think it’s a direct result of what we are feeling in that moment, it’s more of an emotional response to what we want to wear, having said that we go to exhibitions and films etc and those experiences permeate into our collections subconsciously.

Does music hold any relevance in your collections?

Well we are always listening to it and it’s important to all of us, I think we can remember the music we were listening to while we were emailing late at night replying to emails!

What was the last thing that made you excited?
Lucinda: the last thing I was excited about was two minutes ago thinking about a shoot…. and who was going to do that. 

Molly : Working at the bag factory this morning and seeing the new prototypes.

Kristin: Booking a Christmas trip to India.

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PRADA X adidas – Edition NO.1

25.11.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

A collaboration announced a few weeks ago, luxury fashion brand Prada has officially launched the first by-product of their partnership with adidas as a homage to the German sportswear brand. 

The first drop features a version of the Adidas Original shoe —  a sneaker which has been a staple of the brand since its inceptions in 1969, is re-introduced with luxury through Prada’s full-grain leather for its upper, Adidas signature rubber shell toe and triple-stripe heel alongside Prada’s logotype. The shoe is aptly paired with a version of Prada’s bawling bag which has been modified to echo the original bowling bag and give hints towards the Adidas gym bag as it’s executed in superior calf leather with a sports nylon strap.

The mini collection will hit Prada stores on December 4th and will be offered in a total of only 700 pieces worldwide, both male and female. Each piece has also been numbered with the unique serial to number of its production order. 

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Saint Laurent SELF 05 – ‘A night in Shanghai’

20.11.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Earlier this year Saint Laurent introduced a project of theirs entitled SELF —  a series of stories capturing several aspects of the Saint Laurent personality and underlining the complexity of various individuals through the eyes of artists selected by creative director Anthony Vaccarello. The latest version of the series is its fifth installation titled ‘A night in Shanghai’ and has been curated by Chinese artist Wong Kar Was and directed by Wing Shya. 

A night in Shanghai tells a story about the introspective research of ourselves which begins from breaking balance.  Ju Xiaowen is captured searching for the balance in life by comparing the past and the present while looking for who she is within . 

‘Wong Kar Wai envisions individual feelings; his art is like a vivid dream projected into real life, which emphasizes the contrast between the fragile aspect of humanity and reality. It was a very instinctive process based on mutual respect and admiration, in the movie you can find and feel the Saint Laurent fantasy taking shape as natural consequence,’ comments Vaccarello. 

The short movie will also be exclusively presents at the Yuz Museum in Shanghai art district, open to the public from the 22nd to the 24th of November.

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The New Black Vanguard -Photography between Art and Fashion

06.11.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

Cover image: Renell Medrano, Untitled, Harlem 2017

A few weeks ago, NYC based not-for-profit foundation Aperture opened its doors to The New Black Vanguard — an exhibition of photography between art and fashion curated by Antwaun Sargent. 

The New Black Vanguard is a visual  documentary of fifteen artists who works fuse the genres of art and fashion through innovative perspective. It compiles the images of these talents that have recently been on reign in magazines,  ad campaigns & museums across the world , be it New York, London, Johannesburg or Lagos.  Each piece of work opens up conversations from different perspectives around the roles of the black body and black lives as a subject matter, collectively celebrating black creativity in fashion and art.

Not only through the hands of photographers, but stylists, designers and other creatives as well. The exhibition includes selected works from photographers including Campbell Addy, Arielle Bobb-Willis, Micaiah Carter, Tyler Mitchell, Daniel Obasi, Justin French and a few others. It will be open throughout the rest of the year and will come to a close on January 18, 2020. For more information visit Aperture. 

Jamal Nxedlana, Late Leisure, 2019
Campbell Addy, Adut Akech, 2019
Dana Scruggs, , Nyadhour, Elevated, Death Valley, California, 2019

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Tongoro x TAMU – A Capsule Collection of Effortless Elegance

01.11.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Earlier this week, Senegalese fashion brand Tongoro launched the first edition of their Tongoro CollabX series with a capsule collection crafted in partnership with Jamaican style maven and influencer Tamu McPherson. The collection features 10 affordable pieces including blouses, jumpsuits, skirts, pants and dresses all fashioned with unique prints. 

“I strongly believe in the power of collaboration; its a beautiful way to build bridges and have conversation around identity and togetherness.  Tamu is someone I have long looked up to when I first stepped into fashion: she has always had a great sense of style. She is undeniable a force in the fashion industry and a powerful representation of black women in fashion.

She is Jamaica, I am Senegalese, we first met in Paris but we reconnected in Lagos during fashion week, and it was very special for me to welcome her to Dakar, in our studios and to share a part of our process. 

We gave birth to something that will hopefully spark a feeling of pride and belonging to anyone that will wear one of these pieces. The pieces are all fun and very easy. The capsule truly merges & emphasises our vision of the modern woman,” explained Tongoro Founder Sarah Diouf. 

The capsule collection is currently available on TONGORO.COM 

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PRADA Linea Rossa FW19 ft. Willow Smith

24.10.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last week, Italian fashion house Prada tapped American musician and artist Willow Smith for an unannounced performance at a station along the Central Line of London’s tube to commemorate the launch of their  Fall Winter 2019 Linea Rossa collection.

The inspiration behind the performance was quite literal, Prada’s Linea Rossa ( red line in English ) is a uniting emblem that’s simple yet complex, and industrially can be identified in all major cities throughout transport. This was in alignment with the core thought of the Linea Rossa collection which was originally created by Miuccia Prada in the 1990’s as she kept speed, travel , and dynamic energy in mind as the brand initially ventured into sportswear. 

The Fall Winter 2019 collection , of course uses this historic red line as one of it’s unifying elements as well as the brand’s use of signature fabrics. Some technical jerseys are created with polyester fibres recycled from plastic bottles recovered from sea and land fill where the waste was melted then spun into threads to  create the lightweight jersey.  It also includes the use of their renewable & recycled polyester fabrics,  Goretex Pro water-repellent microfibre and the famous nylon. The collection carries the tones similar to that of the military as when put together they give the effect of a modern day PRADA army , with shades of army green, pink , black , neon orange & neon green shaped to hug the body yet maintain a free range of free movement. 

To see more or shop the collection visit PRADA.COM

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Thierry Mugler: Couturissime at Kunsthal Rotterdam

18.10.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

Cover Image: Manfred Thierry Mugler , Photo by Max Abadian

Last spring Montreal Museum of Fine Arts launched an exhibition at its headquarters in collaboration with the Clarins Group and the Maison Mugler. The exhibit titled “Theirry Mugler: Couturissime” showcases some of the work of the great French creator Thierry Mugler through his time as a couturier, director, photographer and perfumer with a special focus on his ready-to.wear and haute couture creations. After closing its doors in Montreal, the exhibition has now found its way to the Kunsthal Museum in Rotterdam having opened only a few days ago. 

It features over 140 ensembles, many of which are being put display for the very first time since their creation between 1973 and 2001, with an additional collection of stage costumes, videos and sketches. Of course imagery also plays a major part, as the photographs of industry icons such as Avedon, Bourdin, Goude, LaCapelle, Newton, Ritts and Isserman have been curated all around the gallery to give an even wider perspective of the mythical extravagance which surrounded and still surrounds the designer.  

“I have always been fascinated by the most beautiful animal on Earth: the human being. I have used all of the tools at my disposal to sublimate this creature: fashion, shows, perfumes, photography, video… I am not a person who dwells in the past, but the MMFA, through Nathalie Bondil, was the first to propose to me to stage my creations and imagine together a free, global and reinvented artistic vision. How could I refuse?” said creator Manfred Thierry Mugler. 

Thierry Mugler: Couturissime is only display at Kunsthal Rotterdam from October 13th 2019 to March 8th 2020. 

Yesmin Le Bon wearing Thierry Mugler photographed at the London Palladium for ES Magazine
Patrice Stable, Outfit by Thierry Mugler
Helmut Newton, Outfit by Thierry Mugler
David LaChapelle, Outfit by Thierry Mugler

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Fashion Film Festival Milan presents edition NO.6

17.10.2019 | Art , Blog , Film | BY:

Cover Image: Still from Kenzo Memento by Thomas Traum

In a few weeks, the annual Fashion Film Festival Milano will present its sixth edition of screening since its establishment by Costanza Cavalli Etro five years ago. Set to take place from November 7th – 10th, at the Anteo Palazzo del Cinema, the festival will showcase a selection of 200 films from over 50 countries divided by curator Gloria Maria Cappelletti into categories under themes such as feminism, social diversity & inclusion, and environmental sustainability. 

From this selection of 200 films, the festival’s jury will be tasked to select winners for 16 categories including Best Fashion Film, Best Director, Best Green Fashion Film and the newly added category of Best New Italian Designer/Brand. The association has also partnered with Istituto Marangoni on The Gaze of The Future Fashion Film Contest, which will set an evening for the screening of films by emerging talents as well as a conversation, giving advice on pursuing a career in the industries as a young creative.

This year’s jury is lead by Giorgio Armani, and features fashion and art industry executives such as photographer Cass Bird; founder of Brazilian brand Osklen, Oskar Metsavaht; top model and human rights activist Waris Dirie; founder and creative director of Petronio Associates Ezra Petronio; actress, creator and producer Cristiana Captondi; Artistic Director of Pirelli HangarBicocca Vicente Todoli; Fashion Critic Angelo Flaccavento and Vogue Japan Editor-at-large Sissy Vian.  

Apart from the screening of films, additional festivities will also include conversations discussing topics such as Independent Publishing from a Female Point of View and issues surrounding female rights and female genital mutilation and a special screening of The Times of Bill Cunningham — a film directed by Mark Bozek honouring the memory of the later fashion photographer Bill Cunningham. The four day event will then conclude with the Italian premiere of Peter Lindbergh: Women’s Stories, a film directed by Jean-Michel Vecchiet documenting some of the works of the iconic fashion designer who recently passed away while some of his muses including Naomi Campbell, Astrid Lindbergh, and Helga Polzin discuss his legacy. For more information about the festival visit Fashion Film Festival Milano.

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Marni Pop Folk Market

16.10.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last April during Milan Design Week, Italian brand Marni presented a line of bags, furniture and design objects in their signature show space. 

This week the brand has finally put these objects on sale via what they dub their online Pop Folk Market. With a series of colour combinations featuring their Crochet bags (in cotton & wool) , Hammock Bags,  iconic striped bag and an introduction of their Fish Bag in a fluorescent shade, the house has created a visual story as they embark on a road trip filled with the characteristics of colour, humour and personality. Each of the pieces included in the collection is said to be a unique creation handcrafted by their long term Columbian artisans using the meticulous artisanal process of the local traditions. All the pieces from Marni Pop Folk Market are currently available at Marni.com

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A chat with Julie De Libran on her Matches Fashion collaboration

15.10.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Julie De Libran is a French designer known for her work leading design houses like Prada, Versace and Louis Vuitton. Her speciality has always been the craft of creating unique made-to-measure womenswear pieces that allowed the wearer to feel a level of individual elegance. On her latest venture, De Libran has partnered with London based luxury retailer Matches Fashion on the launch of an inaugural collection. The collection, which marks the launch of her brand, includes a line of red-carpet gowns made from limited edition archive fabrics. Each gown was given a name of the different female personalities who inspired them including Sofia, Charly, Brigette , Gaia, Gilda, Julia, Jones, Blue Bird, Alexia, Martine, Eve and Nancy. 

The designer worked in collaboration with Matches Fashion to create 7 ready to wear pieces and 7 made-to-measure dresses which will be specially created for each client. On the occasion of the launch, Twin had the chance to have a quick chat with the designer about her latest collection. 

Would you call yourself a feminist in some way? 

No , I am a woman, I respect women and I am inspired by women. I am a feminist like all women without the political connotation. 

Each dress in the collection has a name/story, what is it the general idea of each of the names ? What do they mean to you? 

Each name is a person that inspires me she is real or made up. I like designing for women thinking of where they are going, what they like, their passions, their character and how a dress can influence this character or be a character of its own. 

Why did you think evening wear was the best vessel to tell these stories?

I feel a dress is something you cherish it’s one piece you can put on and you are dressed. You can dress it up or dress it down depending on your accessories. It’s timeless, it’s a memory of an important moment like listening to a piece of music that is full of memories. 

What percentage of the fabric used from this collection was recycled ? 

More than 60 percent the rest are made from limited embroidered materials made to measure so only made when ordered without waste. 

What do you hope for a client when they purchase and wear one of these dresses ?

I hope she feels comfort, freedom of movement, elegance, strength, feels it’s timeless, will cherish her dress and then pass it down to the next generation. 

Julie De Libran’s collection is now available online Matches Fashion

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The Woven Exhibitionist by MWoven & Peter Tomaszewicz

11.10.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

Recently, London based sustainable fashion brand MWoven  by Martina Spetlova joined forces with motion graphics director Peter Tomaszewicz on the creation of an interesting short film titled “The Woven Exhibitionist.” The film is an exploration of the possibilities of hyperreal surrealism with a direct focus on colourful outbursts of shapes and spaces. The creatives’ intentions were to create a film that would evoke pleasant feelings of suspense, all while exploring the designer’s signature weaving techniques that come with an added touch of arms sensations. 

It begins in a minimal ambiguous space, an then further continues to reveal the unexpected artistry behind the techniques using colour and shapes. 

“The project includes reflections of the unseen, inflatable articles, liquid forms and unexpected movements that would transition the viewer with the guidance of the vigorous sound to the routes of “The Tree Of Woven”, an archetype of a paradise in which these objects represent the pinnacle of innovation and ultimate desire,” read the press release. View the full video below.

Motion design director – Peter Tomaszewicz

MWoven designer – Martina Spetlova

Sound – Austin from Snapped Ankles

Production and communications director – Christiana Perdiou

Digital textile assets by FBFX Digital:

Photogrammetry – Jack Rothwell

PBR Texture Creation – Anastasiya Honchar

Zbrush Artist – Chris Everritt

3D Artist – Giovanni Manili

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