Marni Presents: Holiday Glassware Collection

24.11.2020 | Blog , Culture | BY:

Introducing a limited edition collection of sophisticated coloured glassware by Marni. The holiday edition includes kaleidoscope patterns that are offered in vases, glasses and carafes. Inspired by nature, each piece of glassware is made to be one of a kind: unique in shape and beautiful in design.   

The selection is formed by two Columbian artisans who work in harmony, using local traditions to forge the eccentric pieces. Recycled glass is used in the process with the hodgepodge of fragments representing the unpredictable, raw, and creative essence of Marni. This collaboration yields a variety of tones and unexpected shapes, with warm and homely functionality. 

Each vase is carefully crafted, taking up to two hours of steady workmanship to create one. The chords that are used to mould the goblets and tumbler glasses, brings about alluring dances of colour in the mixed glass. The line of carafes and glasses are smoothed over, also producing refined colour combinations. 

The pieces take on the meticulous and intricate workings of the craftsmen; the singularity of the construction process can be seen in each design. The glassware physically embodies a material metamorphosis: from glass shards to artistic centrepieces. 

This line will be available in select boutiques around the world at the end of November. 

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Laura Morgan on making sense of the world

21.11.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Mansur Gavriel is bringing love and community to 2020 with a new campaign to mark the launch of the brand’s latest collection.

Featuring artist and model Laura Morgan and Twin cover star Dilone, alongside LGBTQ activist ​Jari Jones​ and social media maven Parker Kit Hill, the ‘Love Forward’ celebrates individuality and creativity.

In an exclusive interview for Twin, Alexander McQueen muse Laura Morgan explores her love of fashion, and what’s getting her through 2020.

Laura Morgan for Mansur Gavriel ‘Love Forward’ campaign

What does fashion mean to you?
I think fashion is a lot more influential that people give it credit for. I’ve worked in front of, and behind the camera in the fashion and entertainment industry for 23 years. For me my work as a model is about trying to express myself as much as possible within the constraints of the business of fashion. To keep pushing in the hopes there will be some
breakthroughs. I know I am not alone in this process. I believe fashion has the ability to challenge norms, and stereotypes and bring what would have been marginalized perspectives into the mainstream. I believe it has the
responsibility to do so.

Laura Morgan for Mansur Gavriel ‘Love Forward’ campaign

Speaking of self expression, 2020 has been quite a year – what has been your outlet?

Art. It’s the only thing that helps me attempt to make sense of this world, and of the situation that is going on around and in us. I try to bring creative self-expression to everything I do. Be it an interview such as this, modeling, my art. In this precise moment I am concentrating on developing my art to be able to understand and communicate what I feel so passionately about. I remain close to the people I love and respect, and collaborate with other artists. I feel the reason we are in this situation in the world right now is because we believe in the prevailing idea that the individual is more
important than community. Humans are pack animals. We need each other to survive. The communities that have the longest life span are those who deem success by their relationships and not by the amount of money they make.

Where do you find your inspiration?
Life.

If you could sum up 2020 in one word, what would it be?
Disbelief.

What is the one thing that you are saying goodbye to in 2020?
Expectations.

Laura Morgan for Mansur Gavriel ‘Love Forward’ campaign

What do you hop to communicate through this campaign? And what does being a part of it mean to you?
Through this campaign Mansur Gavriel has chosen to work with an all-female crew and a range of models that reflect the diversity in society, rather than the very narrow one that most of the fashion world represents. This is really important to me.

Explore the full ‘Love Forward’ campaign here.

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The Architecture of Olfactory

10.11.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Everyone has their first memories of Chanel N°5. It’s a scent you almost hear of first, whispered and revered.

Chanel N°5 represents ultimate aspiration. Sexy and undone. It’s glamour in the most heady sense of that word. And then there’s the first electrifying memory of a family member, lover or friend – it’s never yourself who wears it first. But you know the scent, you don’t have to ask. 

“One must start from the beginning: what does N°5 have to tell us? N°5 is not a simple fragrance. It is an idea. It is an equation that was built to stand the test of time. How can we embody this idea today?” asks Thomas Du Pré de Saint-Maur, Head of Global Creative Resources for Fragrance and Beauty at Chanel.

100 years later, and the parfum continues to captivate wearers. Tasked with reimagining the next chapter for this iconic scent is a significant and exhilarating challenge. And perfect for a figure such as Thomas Du Pré de Saint-Maur, who is adept at drawing inspiration from the past and imaginatively infusing it with the present. 

He explains: “I am driven by words, literature and art. I cannot live without reading. I cannot think without speaking. Literature stimulates the imagination; the images are there indirectly. As for art, and particularly Greek and Roman antiquities, it never ceases to trigger intense emotions within me and make me question my concept of modernity and universality.”

Behind the scenes for the new CHANEL N°5 fragrance campaign, with Marion Cotillard.

Historic and renowned, as a fragrance N°5 is modern, and timeless. It always was. When initially conceptualising the scent Coco Chanel asked for “an artificial fragrance like a dress, something crafted.” She sought “a woman’s fragrance that smells like a woman”.  Then, it was a marked departure from the singular floral, natural scents that traditional perfumers had sought to evoke. Today, it is the aspirational precedent. 

Who better to represent that precedent today than Marion Cotillard, a talent who lingers in your memory as if a fragrance herself – compelling, confident and Cotillard embodies a modern myth. 

In the latest campaign, Chanel offers a welcome moment of pure, fantastical escapism. Filmed in Saint-Denis, at the Cité du Cinéma and featuring “500 square kilometers of golden moon”, the CHANEL woman embarks on an adventure to the moon and back. The film, Thomas Du Pré de Saint-Maur explains “is decidedly resonant with the present. The song by Lorde, “We are on each other’s team” echoes this perfectly.”

Back to that first evocative note of Chanel N°5. The moment of olfactory revelation. It has always been about aspiration, about the dream of who one might become, who one could become. “The power of N°5 lies in its promise” Thomas Du Pré de Saint-Maur surmises, “which is namely the ability of every woman to make things happen for herself, if she chooses to put her heart and soul into her life.”

Discover Chanel N°5 here.

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“COARSE: The Edges of Black Ingenuity” VIRTUAL EXHIBITION by JAWARA

06.11.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

One of the top young creatives for hair in the fashion industry has been international hairstylist Jawara Wauchope. His expertise in the avant-garde crafting of black hair resonates deeply with many creatives in and outside of the local industry.

In one of his most recent ventures, the hairstylist has partnered with his creative agency Art Partner for the launch of a virtual exhibition of some of his most iconic work entitled COARSE: The Edges of Black Ingenuity . Curated by the artist himself, the exhibition features images by top fashion photographers such as Tyler Mitchell, Kristin-Lee Moolman, Nadine Ijewere among others that document the intricacy of afro-hairstyles as an art-form. In each piece of his work the artist has managed to use hair to tell stories of a modern reality where black hair styles are seen through a complex artistic light as opposed to whatever stigmatized view that is usually put upon it. 

“It is my intention to use this platform to curate a storied journey of triumph through the power of our follicles. I was taught at a young age that “hair is strength” by my mother who hasn’t cut her hair in 43 years. I believe that the best way to convey this truth is through beauty,” he artist explained. 

Running from now until late December 2020, the virtual compilation of images from black hair as something way different than a cosmetic feature but enables one to think of it with commentary on gender, class, race and spirituality. 

Take a tour on the full virtual exhibition on ArtPartner.com 

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Prada’s Holiday Campaign: ‘A Stranger Calls’

06.11.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Prada unveils their holiday campaign ‘A Stranger Calls’, which showcases their pieces through a black and white avant-garde narrative. Photographed by Steven Meisel and based on the works of best-selling author Candice Cathy-Williams, the campaign is not one to miss. 

The story surrounds four protagonists and one mysterious stranger, set in an isolated villa in Italy. All characters originate from the Prada Universe, starring Freja Beha, Maty Fall, Mao Xiaoxing, Rudolfs Valbergs and Merlijne Schorren. 

“Cinema suggests shifting focus and points of emphasis: here, details of Prada accessories are pulled into macro-scale. Like plot-points, or clues to an unknown mystery, they dominate the frame, drawing attention – before Meisel’s lens, they become characters in themselves,” reads the press release.

The spotlight is placed on the new Prada Cleo handbag which was debuted in the Prada Multiple Views SS21 show and featured in the Spring/Summer 2021 womenswear collection. 

The Cleo line utilises classical Prada styles to give way to pieces that perfectly coalesce classicism and futurism. The accessories include reworked traditional jewels in silver and gold with tourmaline, and the emblem appearing on a delicate chain, necklaces and chandelier earrings. 

“This campaign – and these Prada accessories – explore emotion, intrigue, attraction and, ultimately, desire.” – Prada

For more information about the campaign and the collection visit Prada.com

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Miss Manhattan!

01.11.2020 | Blog | BY:

In issue 23, writer Elisa Carassai meets with Tziporah Salamon to discuss the art of style and the gift of regeneration during lockdown in New York.

Ben Rayner celebrates her magic.

Tekla X Laura Coulson – A new Breath across Connectivity

30.10.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Collaboration: one of the greatest learnings of how to remain hopeful in a future uncertain. A vital tenet for Tekla since the start, the value of visions from a plethora of spectrums has given a freedom of expression from a broad playing field to the brand. Working with photographer Laura Coulson, whose intuitive imagery of the everyday holds an exceptional magic, a series of images exploring families and friends with those innate ties that can often never be expressed… but maybe captured on film. 

Speaking to Tekla, we talk about knowledge exchange, capturing a particular emotion and finding a common language.

What role does collaboration play with Tekla and your own creative expression? 

We like to collaborate with a variety of people whose creative work we find interesting, whether it is with a photographer or a designer, the collaboration itself is a process. You need to find a common language. It is always interesting to get together with other creatives and see things through their eyes to exchange experience and knowledge. 

What first attracted you to the photography of Laura Coulson? 

I’ve known Laura for ten years now and have been following her works ever since she started taking pictures. She has her unique way of seeing the world, which she projects into her creations. Her ability to see the potential for strong photography in any ordinary situation and capture a particular emotion, makes her images very honest. 

What do you think she managed to capture in these images she created with you? 

Laura’s idea was to capture the loving spirit of spending time as a family and friends, which we’ve shot during the late summer in London parks. I’ve found that this time has brought everything back to basics and made us refocus our attention on celebrating happiness in the here and now. Appreciating the little things we might have forgotten to enjoy, and I think Laura achieved that abundantly. 

How are these emotions captured intrinsic to what you stand for? 

I think the honesty and emotions which Laura encapsulates in her works is something we can relate to when it comes to the values in Tekla. 

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White Cube: Cocoa Sculptures With a Bitter Taste of Colonialism

30.10.2020 | Art , Blog | BY:

White Cube tells a story about how art can be an ally to a community constricted by neo-colonialism. The feature-length film directed by Renzo Martens documents the formation of Cercle d’Art des Travailleurs de Plantation Congolaise (CATPC), and how they mobilised their artwork, to bring economic and ecological growth back to their community. The film is set to premiere in Lusanga, Democratic Republic of Congo, and in the international feature film competition at the IDFA film festival in Amsterdam, this November. 

The sculptures are first made using mud and are then 3D scanned and reproduced in cocoa and palm oil in Amsterdam. One sculpture by artist Irene Kanga titled “Forced Love”, depicts a brutal rape to symbolise the catalyst of the Congo Revolt of 1960. 

The artwork is then exhibited in museums and art galleries worldwide and the money from these exhibitions is reinvested back into the community. The White Cube sits on a Lusanga plantation as a pillar for a different future, surrounded by new ecological growth.

“Land or art. If I would have to choose, I would choose both. But if I really have to choose only one, I would choose the land. Where can I put my chair and start making art, if I do not own the land?” – Matthieu Kilapi Kasiama, CATPC.

Renzo’s film and the work of the CATPC, brings light to the complex relationship between the Congolese plantations and the art world. With reports of profits extracted from these plantations to fund museums and galleries such as Tate Modern, the question presides: can these museums ever be truly inclusive when reparations have not been paid to plantation workers who have financed these very institutions? 

“Is there any way, for working people, for the working class to benefit from art? Is there any way for gentrification to be reversed?” – Renzo Martens

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Alexander McQueen AW20 – “The Tall Story”

28.10.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Alexander McQueen’s new addition to their line of luxury bags encompasses elegance and practicality. The Tall Story bags are the taller sister of the previously released “The Story” and includes bags with a contrast colour on the sculptural lining of the tote. First spotted on the Autumn/Winter 2020 runway, the sophisticated bag includes the Alexander McQueen seal on a leather tag. 

This tote bag is not only an elegant staple, it is also constructed with an executive interior and features pockets for a laptop, phone, and wallet. The foldable metallic handles make the bag easy to hold or hang over the shoulder via the supple leather straps. 

The Tall Story bags are available in black with oversized quilting and with a red lining finish. The line also includes a black stamped croc design and a handmade patchwork style. To view the full collection, visit AlexanderMcQueen.com 

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Prada launches Linea Rossa FW20

23.10.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This week Prada released their Linea Rossa FW20 campaign, featuring another selection of clean-cut designs for the sportswear inspired line. All the clothing is made from Extreme Tex – Prada’s innovative textile made with eco-sustainable technology. This material also ensures optimal insulation and features waterproof properties.

The campaign incorporates clothing with stark contrasts by utilising black as the base, with only tinctures of colour. There are select pieces that include bright neon colours such as the Tec Rec Cropped Puffer Jacket. Other articles include a bucket hat, Polarius sneakers and sweatshirts, all complete with the signature red strip. This line is reminiscent of Prada’s releases from the late 90s’ and early 00’s, now with a futuristic spin. 

A resurgence in 90’s fashion and a push for ecological alternatives has been propped up as an important concern, especially for the incoming generation. The FW20 release features 20-year-old actor Yara Shahidi, EXO member Chanyeol Park and Chinese actress Jin Chen.  All images were photographed by Renell Medrano and creative direction under Ferdinando Verderi. View the full collection at PRADA.com

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Twin Issue XXIII

20.10.2020 | Blog , Twin Book | BY:

2020 hasn’t given us much to laugh about, but it has changed our experience of time and space. This year we’ve slowed down, ground to a halt, accelerated, activated, organised, experienced deep grief and pure joy all at once, sometimes at the same time. With a global pandemic keeping most people at home, we invited contributors to explore their surroundings, to work with what they had around them.

The result is Twin’s personal issue, and we’re honoured and excited to have been able to create such a rich, intimate, thought provoking magazine at this genuinely strange and largely unprecedented time (remember when that wasn’t the opening line to every single email…?) thanks to the independent, dynamic spirit of our contributors.

At 26 years old, Dilone is one of the leading models in fashion, and wields her influence powerfully. Our cover star model and activist explores the power of protest and community in an interview with Jordan Anderson. The brilliant Leah Thomas, founder of the Intersectional Environmentalism movement, drills into systemic racism within environmentalism. She explains why activism needs work across social justice and sustainability in order to make impactful change, with portraits by Nolwen Cifuentes. And in ‘Words and Pictures’ photographer Jermaine Francis and director Akinola Davies discuss Francis’ portraits of graffiti that were taken during lockdown in London and how they embody our political reality.

2020 is a time to celebrate radical visionaries, so in this issue you’ll also find a rare interview with the iconic Californian pioneer of performance and print, Barbara T. Smith. Kate Neave profiles the inspirational installations of Dominique White. Also, Jess Clark talks to Byredo founder Ben Gorham and beauty maverick and artist Isamaya Ffrench about future colour theory. Photographer Sharif Hamza captures moments of fleeting beauty, style icon Tziporah Salamon, captured by Ben Rayner, offers a love letter to New York post-lockdown. At home, Lara Johnson-Wheeler delivers a love letter to romance and recipes, while in ‘Subversive Skin’, Isabella Davey profiles the new designers changing underwear.

And so much more! As winter looms, get up close & personal with this latest issue; be inspired and energised to face this brave new world we’re in.

BUY NOW
BUY NOW

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Hair Portraits by Rachel Portesi at The BMAC

18.10.2020 | Art , Blog | BY:

Cover image: Homage to Louise Bourgoise (quadriptych) 2018

The Brattleboro Museum & Art Center (BMAC) in Vermont recently opened an exhibition with Artist Rachel Portesi and BMAC Chief Curator Mara Williams exploring  the sentimental values of hair as it pertains to identity and its relationship women and femme-identifying individuals throughout society. The exhibit entitled Hair Portraits features a series of Portesi’s tintype photographs of femme identifying models of various ages and ethnicity who see consider hair to be a large part of their identity. Each image through the series reflects on hair’s symbolic significance throughout history, with linkage to culture, fertility, sexual identity and ethnicity. 

“Also informing Hair Portraits is Portesi’s fascination with the cross-cultural presence of hair in historic memorialization and mourning practices. During the Victorian era—which coincided with the rise of tintype photography—wreaths, art, and sculpture were often made using the deceased’s hair as the primary medium, especially among families that couldn’t afford photography. In the Ndebele culture of Zimbabwe and northeastern South Africa (among other ethnic groups), it is customary for family members of all sexes to shave their head during the mourning period, unless the deceased relative willed them exempt prior to passing. Religious sculptures from first-century China have been found to contain human hair in their hollow recesses. And in present-day Western culture, it is not unusual for a parent to save a lock of hair to memorialize their child’s first haircut,” – BMAC

 “I use hair to both honor and say goodbye to past parts of myself. These images address fertility, sexuality, creativity, nurturement, and harmony and discord with nature. Above all, these images — photographs of elaborate, pinned hair sculptures constructed in the studio with the input of their subjects—are a testament to change. In my case, that change is a record of metamorphosis from a past fractured self to an integrated, confident, self-actualized woman,” the artist explained.

Rachel Portesi is now on show at The Brattleboro Museum & Art Center, for more information visit The BMAC.

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FENDI x CHAOS Capsule Collection

18.10.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This week Italian fashion house FENDI officially launched their capsule collection collaboration with London-based accessory brand CHAOS —  helmed by Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall. The collection which was first revealed and the FENDI Women’s FW20 show earlier this year in Milan features a series of tech jewellery pieces that offer a luxury take on everyday accessories.

With old Hollywood glamour as inspiration , it reinterprets some classic vintage pieces through the modern eye. Vintage cigarette cases, gold lighters, and evening clutches are re-created and engraved in metal shapes with FENDI’s iconic craftsmanship and style. A four-piece metal shot glass set is suspended from a moulded leather keyring, the traditional clip-on smartphone case is made in metal; a leather and satin minaudière case features a gold chain handle; and even a laptop is given a fur and shearling protective casing. The FENDI X CHAOS collection is now out. For more information visit FENDI.COM 

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Savage X Fenty Vol. 2 Lingerie Show: Inclusivity with Style

18.10.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Rihanna has branded herself as more than just a musician. Through the release of the brand “Fenty” she has stormed the beauty and fashion world, breaking down barrier after barrier. On the 2nd October 2020, she invited the world to the second instalment of her fast-paced, high-energy: Savage X Fenty lingerie showcase. 

The hour-long show features unique pieces from the new line, stitched together with elaborate live performances. Each dance section transitions seamlessly into a catwalk, all choreographed by world-renowned dancer and choreographer: Parris Goebel. 

“Inclusion” was the phrase of the show. The final section introduced the “Men’s Shop”, featuring a broad menswear’s selection, with sizes that go up to 3XXL. 

[Rihanna] kicked the door down. And she opened up the world to all these possibilities of makeup, fashion lingerie, all that being for every size, every shape. That’s some ballsy, powerful shit” – Yusef Williams. 

The show pulls the audience in from start to finish, each shot adorned with enticing visuals.  Pyrotechnics, a mechanical garden of flowers and a factory filled with conveyor belts, all add to the elaborate narrative. Behind the scene shots reveal Rihanna’s modus operandi and the genius behind her vision with her team. Rihanna’s process and the outcome of Savage X Fenty’s success is all a manifestation of things that inspired her. 

“Inspiration can come from anything. What makes it unique is your own interpretation on that message, that colour scheme, that texture. And so everything that I do is going to be personal to me when it comes to Savage” – Rihanna. 

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Shoes Have Names: An exhibition dedicated to opening the conversation on homelessness

08.10.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Looking to develop a language for fashion which is about a greater purpose and social cause, artist Jo Cope is bringing communities together through her touring exhibition Shoes Have Names.

Joining forces with Shelter, Shoes Have Names features a collection of handmade artworks inspired by the personal experiences of real people facing homelessness. Ten international artists, shoemakers and designers were paired up with a person that Shelter has helped through its frontline services.  

Discussing the exhibition, Jo Cope surmised: “Shoes Have Names aims to use fashion as a positive vehicle to create greater public awareness of homelessness. It also celebrates the amazing work of Shelter. This year, as the pandemic took hold and more and more people found themselves facing their own housing crisis, Shelter’s services have never been more vital.“

Exploring the shoes created by Tabitha Ringwood, she collaborated with Kimberley who was heavily pregnant when she received a shock eviction notice. She then faced ’No DSS’ discrimination and struggled to find a landlord who accepted tenants who received housing benefits. Crafting a red stiletto repurposed from a leather sofa, the message of hope and positive change in the face of adversity is pulled from the meaning a sofa can hold for a home: a centralised sense of comfort and security, an unknown to many who are supported by Shelter.

Jo Cope’s dedication for the exhibition is to spotlight the role and responsibility fashion must uphold now more than ever: “Fashion’s role in society is changing; this fashion project reflects the need for ethical shifts in the fashion industry towards something more human-centred. Boutique by Shelter, which is already doing great things for sustainability, was the perfect partner. And naming shoes after real people supported by Shelter is a way of giving these people back their place in society and a positive identity, which can sometimes be lost by the blanket term ‘homeless.”

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Alexander McQueen’s FW20 Tailor’s Quilt

01.10.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

One of the most fascinating things about Alexander McQueen’s FW20 womenswear collection is the amount of intricacy and sentimental value each look and garment holds. “The collection is a love letter to women and to families, colleagues and friends. We went to Wales and were inspired by the warmth of its artistic and poetic heritage, by its folklore and the soul of its craft. The woman is courages , grounded, bold: heroic. There is a sense of protection in the clothes, of safety and comfort, evoked through quilting and blankets. The hearts are a symbol of togetherness, of being there for others, ” explained creative director SaraH Burton .

One of the main pieces that from the collection that embodies this sentiment is the Tailor’s Quilt, which took inspiration inspiration from the allegorical tailor’s quilt at the St Fagans National Museum of History in Cardiff that withholds a rich history of being hand-stitched over sixteen years from 1842 by master tailor James Williams with over four and a half thousand patches.

Throughout the collection the quilt is featured in two looks including a suit with single-breasted jacket and straight legged trousers and a single breasted coat with a swallow tail constructed in an embroidered patchwork of red, damson, ivory, grey and black — all created from up cycled in-house stock of British worsted wools and military flannels from past seasons. To find out more about the looks from the FW20 collection visit AlexanderMcQueen.com 

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FENDI launches FENDIFRENESIA Pink

29.09.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last December Fendi launched their FENDIFRENESIA Yellow Scented Baguette line in Miami and this year as follow up to that gesture , the house has once again teamed up with Maison Francis Kurkdjian for the launch of FENDIFRENESIA Pink. The addition to the line is an interpretation of the colour pink by their master-perfumer and fragrance house co-founder Francis Kurkdijan who has crafted the scent into a floral and cheerful fragrance. The new bag comes in several versions including a regular Baguette bag, a Nano Baguette and a new card case, all of which are crafted from the signature Selleria Cuoio Romano leather. The FENDIFRENESIA bag line is now available online FENDI.COM 

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PRADA debuts first collection with Raf Simons -Women’s SS21

25.09.2020 | Blog | BY:

After months of anticipation , yesterday afternoon , the moment many of us have all been waiting for finally arrived. The debut of Prada’s first collection since their announcement of Raf Simons’ appointment as co-creative director alongside Miuccia Prada. The SS21 collection was presented digitally and it seems to have ticked all the boxes of what one would imagine a Miuccia x Raf Simons collection would look like. Considering the current circumstances amidst the pandemic, a lot of the collection was shaped by the social restrictions , but the notion behind it was the idea of uniformity. The collection touched on different definitions of what a uniform should look or feel like , both through the eyes of Raf Simons as well as well as Prada being visual representations of identity as well as a representation of shared values.

Each look throughout the collection felt carefully constructed, with elements of both designers being quite evident. It was like a painting of some sort — Miuccia gave one brush stroke, followed by Raf’s splash of paint which all came together to create a picture that was not extravagant or questionable , but rather solid and finished. There were pleated skirts paired blouses with holes, hoodies paired with pleated skirts and kitten heels and many other other elements that had evident traces of both designers. Many pieces throughout the collections are held in hand , or drawn around the body,  artworks by Peter de Potter one of Raf’s long time collaborators were transformed into prints but it also saw a revisiting or some of Prada’s archival prints. This collection felt like a perfect harmony, orchestrated with equal effort, perfectly setting the ground for that which is to come . 

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East London celebrates their 20th anniversary with digital showcase

22.09.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last weekend Fashion East celebrated the twentieth anniversary of their multi-designer showcase, commemorating their work with 144 designers & brands and innovators of British fashion. 

Looking back over twenty years of helping London’s best designers is wild! I’m incredibly grateful I’ve been able to do what I love doing best. I wouldn’t change a thing. It is an honour to get to work with and present these four fabulous talents this season. I am in awe of their visions, creativity, optimism and the resilience they have shown throughout these difficult circumstances, ’ commented Fashion East Founder Lulu Kennedy.

For the occasion , in light of the current social distancing measures, the house proceeded with this year’s SS21 showcase with a digital exhibit with a roster of four designers including up and coming names like MAXIMILIAN, GOOMHEO,  Nensi Dojaka & Saulnash, each of whom brought something new to the table. 

Trinidadian designer Maximillian pulled on his cultural heritage with a collection that referenced Trinidad & Tobago’s annual carnival that was born from a resisistance of Eurocentric traditions following their emancipation in 1834. The collection visualised a contemporary evolution of some of the key dresses of the era including starched Jean-Baptiste Belley styled white cravats made into keyhole halter tops paired with low-slung waist pants and micro miniskirts.  He paid homage to contemporary carnival costumes through details like hammered silk skirts trimmed with goose boots feathers, bralettes cut with harnessed backs & custom headpieces made by Nasir Mazhar. The collection was a celebration of Caribbean heritage and modern black identity which was also reflected in the way it was presented, which was a majestic shooting in collaboration with photographer Rafael Pavarotti & stylist Ib Kamara. 

On her second showcase with Fashion East, designer GOOMHEO took on an alternate view from her last perspective of flourishing romance for a sensuous vouyeristic timbre. She presented a collection influenced by the erotic paintings of German artist Paul Wunderlich. She translates his visions of the nude female figures with to a curvilinear heavy draped female with silk chiffon sashes , roll neck crop tops & low waistband. She created a hide and peek effect with each piece, exploring what it means to be watched and be the subject of ones attentions. 

On a similar note, designer Nensi Dojaka played with abstract shapes and shades around the female body. “The lightness of movement I witnessed in a Sylvie Guillem ballet at Sadler’s Wells came to mind. During lockdown from the peace of my studio, I also had the opportunity to explore the art of draping,” Dojaka explained.

The collection was composed of new capsules of swimwear, body wear and long evening dresses. Backless bodysuits , dresses and swimsuits made in lycra, with different shades of black, caramel , and sepia with sheer chiffon, stretch silk , jersey, tulle and organza. For a playful interpretation, the designer also collaborated with photographer Harley Weir and stylist Francesca Burns for a series of 12 images. 

Saul Nash’s third collection with Fashion East is his Spring/Summer 21 collection entitled Flipside which he created around the qualities of movement, function and transformation. 

I wanted the pieces to open up and move, with this image in my head of men spinning in space. After lockdown I took a trip to the coast, which gave me a feeling of escapism. It made me think about transformation, about shape-shifting through what we wear,”  he commented.

The collection was inspired by 1890’s dance pioneer Loie Fuller and the costumes of the Sufi whirling dervishes which led him to think how seemingly generic garments could be transformed, encouraging a sense of release. Many of the pieces literally flip, like a 3-D tracksuit which is green on one side and printed on the other, a reversible polo-shirt among others. Footwear is provided by Nike, customised by Hernan Guardamagna. Meanwhile, Saul’s shin bags are a collaboration with Raphael El Baz, and can be worn at the ankle, or alternatively on the arm.

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Red Bull Arts New York presents Akeem Smith: No Gyal Can Test

20.09.2020 | Art , Blog | BY:

In collaboration with Red Bull Arts New York , Jamaican stylist, designer and artist Akeem Smith is set to present his first solo exhibition entitled “No Gyal Can Test” at the Red Bull Arts New York. Set to open doors on September 24th, the exhibition is a compilation of personal photographs and videos gifted to the artist over the past decade by family members, friends and members of Kingston’s dancehall community, documenting the iconic era.  

“Drawing upon his experience growing up between New York and Jamaica, Smith harmonizes disparate elements from this extensive archival documentation, which chronicles this seminal era from the early 80s through y2k, conjuring a collective memory that otherwise would have only existed on the threshold of the artist’s own. Part poem, part anthropological homage, No Gyal Can Test forms a layered exploration of spectral coloniality, diaspora, and the voyeurism that results from transposing these artefacts across cultural, economic, and temporal divides.”

The exhibit includes work in collaboration with sculptor Jessi Reacves, British fashion designer Grace Wales Bonners and musicians Total Freedom, Physical Therapy, Alex Somers and dancehall icon Bounty Killer. Visit Red Bull Arts for more information on Akeem Smith: No Gyal Can Test. 

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