Prada’s Old Hollywood Spring-Summer 2019 Campaign

23.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

For their Spring Summer 2019 campaign, Italian fashion house Prada tackles the concept of duality in a video series shot and directed by Will Vanderperre featuring looks from both their women’s and men’s SS19 runway. The series was inspired by classic Hollywood movies and is approached as such.

It features the likes of top models Freja Beha Erichsen, Gigi Hadid, Maine Inga, Liu Wen and Anok Yai re-named after Prada’s supporting cast of accessories: respectively Sybille, Sidone, Margit, Odette and Belle inspired by iconic female cinematic icons. These women are also accompanied by three male characters played by models Daan Duez, Jonas Gloer and Tae Min. The campaign’s direction is a play on an iconic genre of cinematography: everything is familiar, but not too much, all holds a double meaning. Movie star?or model? Menswear? or womenswear? This series is created to guarantee you a few double-takes upon viewing. And like any other movie, it’s accompanied by posters directed by Benoit Debie which hints at the imagery and narrative of the films leaving one curious enough to explore the reflections and refractions of the collection.  The campaign boasts seven short films, which will be released throughout January and February on Prada.

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V & A : “Christian Dior, Designer of Dreams”

21.01.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

On February 2nd, London based Victoria and Albert Museum will open the doors to the largest comprehensive exhibition to be staged in the UK on the fashion house of Dior. Titled “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams,” this exhibition will trace the impact of one of the 20th century’s most influential couturiers while exploring the works of the six artistic directors who succeeded him. Although based on the major exhibition “Christian Dior: Couturier du Reve,” at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the showcase is reimagined for the V & A by curator Oriole Cullen and includes a brand new section which explores the designers fascination with British culture. 

“There is no other country in the world, besides my own, whose way of life I like so much. I love English traditions, English politeness, English architecture. I even love English cooking,” a quote from Christian Dior. The designer deeply admired the British  way of life, even his first fashion show took place at London’s Savoy Hotel and he then later established the brand as Christian Dior London. 

The exhibition also gives insight to Dior’s creative collaborations with jewellers, shoemakers, and glove makers as well as a focus on some of his earliest elite clients. These include author Nancy Mitford, dancer Margot Fonteyn and a special highlight of the Christian Dior dress worn by Princess Margaret for her 21st birthday. The exhibition will presents over 500 objects and over 200 rare Haute Couture garments displayed alongside the designer’s personal possessions. The show will reveal the sources of inspiration which help define the Dior aesthetic, from the intricate designs of Yves Saint Laurent to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s feminist vision. The showcase will be held across 11 sections which include titles such as The Dior Line, Dior In Britain, Historicism, Travels, among others. Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams opens February 2nd until July 14th , to book your tickets visit V & A.

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OSL Contemporary: The Future Stands Still But We Move In Infinite Space

21.01.2019 | Art , Blog | BY:

Norwegian gallery OSL contemporary in it’s latest venture has teamed up with a few artists for part two of their group exhibition called “The Future Stands Still but We Move in Infinite Space.” Opened earlier this month at their HQ in Oslo, the exhibition brings together a group of creatives who challenge our perception and also create an awareness of how different elements are entangled in a network of relations. Through the forms of sculpture, photography collage, film and drawing, these artists tell a story as they perceive the world as a continuous difficult dialogue with objects, memories, sensations, possibilities and prohibitions. Featured throughout the exhibition are collaborative works of Toril Johannessen and Marjolijn Dijkman with a diverse group of microorganisms seen through a light microscope. Also from photographer Kamilla Langleand who creates vintage photographs into fascinating collages and interdisciplinary artist Andrew Amorim who skilled in photography, film and video installation. These among others are the contributing creatives to the exhibition curated by Randi Grov Berger, which will conclude on February 23, for more info , visit OSL. 

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Milan FW: Fendi Men’s FW19, Contemporary Tailoring

15.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last weekend guests were invited to the  Milanese headquarters of Italian fashion house Fendi for the presentation of their Fall Winter 2019 menswear collection.

For Spring Summer we were presented with a  collection where Venturini drew inspiration from one of the main men in her life, her son-in-law Nico Vascellari, a performance and visual artist who according to her “transforms himself on the stage,” revealing several facets fo himself including a dark side. From this came a collection of light and dark which featured shorts, fanny packs, buckets hats and other streetwear like pieces. However for this season, the creative director chose to muse upon one of the more, or if you dare say, the most tailored male figure in her life. Karl Lagerfeld was the guest artist in this season’s collection to which he contributed to physically and creatively. 

“I have never seen him wearing sportswear; he is always wearing tailoring in a contemporary way, ” stated Venturini Fendi, which was exactly what represented the theme carried throughout the collection, — “tailoring done in a contemporary way.”

Upon entry, guests were treated to the scenery of a black and gold replica of Karl Lagerfeld’s personal Parisian library.  Then came the models who were clad in classic tailored pieces which made them seem like wealthy fashionable modern day librarians. Tuxedos and shirts were made in organza and accessorised with gold chains, there were puffer parkers and jumpers made in two different colours, high collared shirts and asymmetrical double-breasted suits all made with a palette of black, beige, brown, accents of red, blue and a calligraphic version of the FF logo. 

Most looks were accompanied by several forms of baggage which included Fendi logo-ed briefcases, trunks and newly introduced male versions of the brand’s iconic Peekaboo bag and Baguette. The man  created throughout this collection was a tailored contrast to the street-like Fendi man previously seen, but he was in fact a character who wore timeless well-made pieces flexible enough to pull out the closet during any season of the year.  Visit Fendi for more. 

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YVES Saint Laurent Summer 2019 Campaign

14.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

For the Spring Summer 2019 runway show Yves Saint Laurent had their models walk on water in a black infinity pool near the Eiffel Tower. This was the making of high glamour seductive woman unafraid to make a splash with her black 6-inch stilettos. For their latest campaign, under the direction of Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello, the brand tapped German photographer Juergen Teller as they brought this woman by the waters of Lake Como for a smoking series of alluring shots. The campaign features Danish model Freja Beha Erichsen, along with Abbey Lee, Julia Nobbis and Mica Arganaraz wearing daring pieces from the collection including asymmetrical dresses, thigh high stockings and mesh tops complimented by drop earrings, silver headbands and of course the classic YSL open toe stiletto. For more visit YSL.

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Milan FW: MSGM FW19 Men’s , TURBO!

14.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last men’s season Italian designer Massimo Giorgetti welcomed his audience to volleyball courtside for the viewing of a collection inspired by the beachy sport. However for FW19 , Giorgetti had a rather more dangerous impulse for the inspiration behind the latest collection. The art of motor racing culture and the adrenaline from the velocity behind it was his sole focus this season. “MSGM is evolving. Speed has always been at our heart, the fast passion of life. What do we do as we grow? We go faster,” to quote the man himself.

The collection was aptly titled TURBO and featured graphic pieces inspired by the thrilling qualities of the world of motor racing. It included knitted jumpers and t-shirt with the slogans “more speed” and “run away”, bright coloured parkas and trucker jackets, wide cut denim cargo pants inspired by pit crew uniforms, motorsport newspaper stories printed on coats and of course the customary reference to Milan with an embroidered blouse of the Duomo’s skyline. The collection was a rather tailored offering to the table of streetwear as was included a selection of double breasted blazers and wool coats complimented by both sneakers and formal footwear. See more at MSGM.

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Milan FW: Sunnei FW 19, Maximal Minimalism

14.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last season designers Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo launched the womenswear branch to their minimalistic Italian label Sunnei in commitment to their vision of building a worldwide community amongst the brand’s fan base. For FW19 , the brand invited guests to an airy liberty-styled white room in Milan called Palazzo del Ghiaccio (translates to ice palace) which was previously used for ice skating. 

The location itself accurately represented the brand’s aesthetic, it was large and simple but procured an admirable level of architecture. The seating arrangement dispersed the fashion hierarchy by not featuring second or third rows but a simple maze of seats which placed each guest at a reasonable distance from the passageways. This was quite unlike what any other brand would do which was exactly the brand’s major message of the season. They presented a collection which made you note that they were not designers who follow guidelines or go off trends but rather create their own. With inspiration from personal experiences throughout high school and college, the duo crafted a collection of women’s and menswear featuring flared trousers, bumpster pants, knit sweaters and blouses, and pastel colored pieces. It included standout pieces such as a sweater with a pixelated meadow and cloud landscape from the Windows 98 OS background along with interesting versions of their classic boots and sneakers. The 41-look collection was very ‘Sunnei.’ Each look contained the brand’s special ingredient of maximal minimalism with small grains of nostalgia carefully sprinkled. Visit Sunnei for more. 

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Milan FW: Prada Men’s FW 19-20, Monster Muses

13.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This weekend Italian house Prada invited guests for the official presentation of their Fall/Winter 2019 Men’s collection at their signature show space in Milan. Within the area, a spacious arena seating arrangement filled with eager Prada enthusiasts and a black sponge-like floor lit up by 120 oversized light bulbs.  In the background played an elegant tune of harps and violins which might have lead one into expecting a collection of tailored traditional pieces. However, what occurred next was quite the contrary. It first began with the change of music, a mix of hard rock beats aptly reset the mood for the collection which emerged. 

It was a slight change of tone in creative director Miuccia Prada’s feminist voice. Behind it, was the inspiration from the birth of famous gothic tale Frankenstein, which was created by author Mary Godwin in the 17th century during a competition with her husband in attempt to see who could create the scariest story. Needless to say, Godwin claimed her victory, but released her novel anonymously due to the fact that female novelists were not highly encouraged at the time. This was what drove the designer’s influence this season, her fascination with the grunge-like ‘otherness’ and vulnerability of society’s’ outcasts, wether minorities or monsters. The collection featured symbols from the tale such as shirts and sweaters with lightning bolts circling towards the heart (an upgrade to the Prada hit shirt from last season), menswear suiting with triple belting,  studded dresses, backpacks, floral printed dresses, and winter hats filled with wool lining — which was also included as shoulder pads on sweaters. It told an enticing story of twisted romance, femininity and vulnerability while also including military references. Miuccia’s Prada’s agility to switch diversify the tone behind her inspiration is exactly the quality which is destined to keep the brand alive and relevant. See more at Prada.

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Milan FW: M.1992 FW19-20

13.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This season, M.1992 designer Dorian Tarantini referenced the allure of the past as major inspiration behind the FW19 menswear collection presented yesterday in central Milan. The designer invited guests to a 60’s inspired vintage ballroom in a corporate Milanese hotel as he revealed a collection which although gave nods to the swinging sixties, was aimed at the upcoming generation, Gen Z. It began with big hair, flared sleeves and pants,  and continued with full patterned looks leading into Baracuta jackets and tailored blazers. Also included was an ode to Britain, as the designer paid tribute by including printed designs of the British flag and signature British style throughout a few pieces, which he states in his show notes, does not act as a form of appropriation, but rises from an authentic sense of belonging having been a frequent traveler between the two worlds as a child.  As his fourth official season on the scene, Tarantini is finally beginning to establish a design voice which speaks for itself, the collection was one which not only felt cohesive, but also held strong evident traits of brand personality.

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For the love of Cher

11.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Cher is a goddess. Her influence lurks in the ether, making rogue appearances where you’d least expect them – in Mamma Mia 2, as the recommended video you didn’t know you wanted on YouTube. She’s the empowered, individual icon who brings eternal joy (look no further than her duet with Tina Turner or her workout videos if you’re in need of a refresh) . 

Inspired by vintage finds in Athens, stylist Daphne Iliaki began to bring together a 1970s-inspired shoot which drew on cowgirls and Cher. “I mainly researched 70s Cher for beauty references on hair” she explains, adding Anjelica Huston was also a point of  reference, and photographer Inez van Lamsweerde, “for her “witchy” hair”. 

“When you see a 70s Cher look, you can tell that what she did with designer Bob Mackie was free, authentic, fun and gave zero shits.  That’s the magic of it, that still feels unique and relevant today. Plus her charming boyish looks, combined with all that glitter ‘n’ glamour!”

Shot by photographer Nikos Papadopoulos and featuring Gucci model Veronika Primorac, the new series celebrates the iconic style of the 1970s, and Cher’s enduring spirit.

Veronika Primorac shot by Nikos Papadopoulos, styled by Daphne Iliaki
Veronika Primorac shot by Nikos Papadopoulos, styled by Daphne Iliaki
Veronika Primorac shot by Nikos Papadopoulos, styled by Daphne Iliaki
Veronika Primorac shot by Nikos Papadopoulos, styled by Daphne Iliaki

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Hanna Moon & Joyce Ng: English as a Second Language

09.01.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

English creative hub Somerset House has recently tapped two of fashion’s headlining Asian photographers Hanna Moon and Joyce Ng for the conception of an upcoming exhibition entitled ‘English as a Second Language.’  The exhibition, set to open on January 25th, will be driven mainly by the work of these two Asian-born London-based photographers. It will offer a series of images with an interesting perspective, which shall incorporate cultural signifiers, set design and of course fashion as they present their take on Western aesthetics and fashion ideals. While at the same time bringing distinct Asian perspective to their works and challenging the concept of “otherness” to reflect upon the power fashion photography holds in shaping our general perceptions of beauty style and taste. Curated by Shonagh Marshall,  ‘English as a Second Language’ is set to be arranged across three rooms. The first of which visitors will be welcomed by the works of Hannah Moon in her series called ‘Heejin and Moffy’ where she uses the architecture of the Somerset House to capture the imagery of the models who respectively hail from South Korea and London in a dramatic re-imagination of Somerset’s neoclassical setting. The exhibition will then continue with the work of Joyce Ng , whose speciality is working with street casted models and natural environments. She will present a body of work which features a cast from the House’s community across a six week period as she invited visitors to take part in on-site shootings. The series will include inspiration from renowned Chinese novel Journey to the West, which the photographer selected participants to embody each character from the novel within the hidden public spaces of Somerset House. The exhibition  will also feature an extensive wardrobe from iconic names such as Vivienne Westwood, Phillip Treacy, Molly Goddard, Yohji Yamamoto among others.  For further details check out Somerset. 

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Serpentine Gallery x Grace Wales Bonner

07.01.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

London’s Serpentine Art Gallery and British-Jamaican designer Grace Wales Bonner, have teamed up for the release of an exhibition at the gallery in honour of the designer’s iconic work and research. The exhibition set to be opened on January 19th will explore the themes of mysticism, rituals and magical resonances throughout black cultural and aesthetic practices. The audience will be treated to a multi-sensory installation which will include an assemblage of shrines, a carpet installation by Rashid Jognson and a series of meditation workshops led by musician Laraaji during the opening days. The designer will draw inspiration from the improvisation, intentionality and repurposing of shrines from the Black Atlantic as material portals into multiple worlds and frames of experience. As she references images, rituals and ceremonies from across the world into a unique collective. The exhibition will culminate on February 16th and will lead into the presentation of her upcoming Autumn Winter 2019 collection titled Mumbo Jumbo. To RSVP, visit Serpentine.

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Coach Spring 2019 – A Western Road Trip

04.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

To ring in the new year, American luxury accessory house Coach, launches their global campaign for the Spring 2019 collection today. The collection features floral print dresses, ruffled blouses and dresses, and of course some of the brand’s signature bags — the Parker Top Handle and the Patchwork Dreamer. Coach ambassadors Kiki Mizuhara and Guan Xiaotong and models Adut Akech, Fran Summers and Kiki Williams among others were elegantly captured by photographer Craig McDean in a faded carnival scene in Los Angeles inspired by a western American road trip. The campaign also features a few pieces from the brand’s collaboration with Disney which gives a playful twist on some of the network’s iconic characters. The images of this all female gang breathe cool, confident, effortless spirit from the Coach girl which accurately conveys the inclusive and optimistic vision of the house with the collections main themes. To view the full collection , visit Coach

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Annakiki SS19 – “A Glitch in Fashion”

03.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last season Chinese designer Anna Yang, presented her collection on the Spring Summer 2109 runways of Milan which she entitled ‘Fashion Glitch.’ The collection represented a crossroad between the themes of tradition and rebellion. Oversized volumes and neon coloured unorthodox pieces were deconstructed and given traditional silhouettes. It highlighted some qualities of fashion that would be considered glitches in a daring, experimental yet dauntless way. It included PVC fabrics, crystal and studded embroidery , denim and patent leather. The designer’s signature, has always been one which showcases the ethics of streetwear in a trendy, bright-coloured, experimental manner which always seems to pay off in the end. Each season, she aims to keep things fresh and keeps her audience on their toes without being too perilous or couture. Discover the full collection at Annakiki.com

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Fashion 2019-20: A Creative Resurgence Perhaps?

02.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

If it’s one thing we learned from the year 2018, it was that the fashion industry is in somewhat of a mass creative crisis. Unfortunately the industry has reached a point where it no longer defines itself by self-inventing and creating as it sees fit but instead looks to it’s consumers and influencers for major leads on what direction to go next. This revealed itself in many different ways such as the sneaker epidemic —  late 2017, Balenciaga created a version of a chunky sneaker called the Triple S which many people enjoyed, and by the end of 2018, the fashion industry had created an over saturation of many different versions of the same product. Nevertheless some of the pieces created were of course best sellers, but there is something less pure about the concept of a design done distinctly for commercial gain as opposed to one powered by creativity which gains sales upon its release. Of late, the fashion industry has been producing a lot of just that, series of collections and drops driven solely by the dollars of the people. Louis Vuitton, Celine, Dior Women’s and many other smaller brands in attempt to follow the streetwear movement often end up creating different versions of the same looks deficient of a wow factor. It is as if the industry within the last decade has shifted from an aristocracy to a democracy. This is not to say a producer should not listen to the voice of its consumer, however fashion has always been the source to define and show the people what they need as opposed to subservient system it’s now become.

In the 90’s & 2000’s, designers like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier and Gianni Versace were coveted by big design houses and corporations because of their ability to create fresh and interesting ready-to-wear shows and collections without going too far across the border of couture. These creatives along with the members of the anti-fashion movement like Rei Kawakubo, Hussen Chalayan, and Raf Simons inebriated and exposed fashion for the art form which it is. Each one had an individual voice and panache which not only kept people at the edge of their chairs during shows but also often attracted an eager clientele. Fashion, because of it’s original, reputable work, withheld a sort of elitism in and outside the industry which earned the admiration and trust of the general public which in turn persuaded them into believing the industry was well-equipped with a group of creatives who had the power to convince and guide them throughout trends. However fast forward to 2018-19 this respect and admiration from consumers and the general public has somehow lost it’s way, the sales of many houses fell during the past year , “more than 1,875 fashion stores in the U.S alone had announced closure, 53% more than the number of closures during the financial crisis of 2008.”  There has been quite the speculation on what could have landed us in this crisis, some argue it was the fusion of the fashion industry with Hollywood through Vogue and other magazines. Others point fingers at fast fashion corporations such as Zara or Fashion Nova who constantly undermine the works of designers with imitations through slavery-like production. All of the above are contributing factors, but the question is, how will these high fashion brands regain the mass trust and loyalty of the general public? Through originality of course, the industry needs to dig deep and reclaim it’s voice in order to subjugate fast fashion and recreate a fantasy for the general public to admire. Fashion sells because it’s a fairytale. There are certainly designers still around like Richard Quinn, Charles Jeffery, Francesco Risso, Alessandro Michele and even at times Miuccia Prada who still create their own interesting narratives. However, why settle for the village when you can have the nation. No-one ever established success without experimentation, taking risks and pushing boundaries. This is not just the work for designers but the entire industry — magazines, luxury Groups, writers, stylists, photographers and everyone. It is mandatory that we aim be creative and expressive without the intentions of pleasing the people around us. So here’s to hoping 2019 will be the year fashion takes back it’s voice. With exhilarating runway shows and fabulous eco-friendly collections. Here’s to hoping as we close this decade, that somehow someway we will successfully become the saviours of our own selves and the creators of an invigorating new era. 

cover photo by Tim Walker : Story Teller

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Ronni Campana x Eva di Franco – Nutritional Therapy

20.12.2018 | Art , Blog | BY:

Ronni Campana is an Italian Photographer who finds the beauty in minute details with the help of his subtle humor and bright flash. The Milanese photographer has published work such as his previous series and book Badly Repaired Cars which documented a series of both expensive and inexpensive cars in London, which were badly repaired by the perspective of their owners. He also published the series F is for Fake which focused on the images of renown artwork reproduced as souvenirs and sold in the center of Florence to tourists.

However for his most recent series, the photographer teamed up with fashion designer Eva Di Franco on a mini-series focused on the shared qualities of the designer’s clothes with cheap supermarket food.  The series entitled Nutritional Therapy features an interesting collection of close up dense images which tell a story of nature’s influence on fashion, or if you will, fashion’s influence of nature. We caught up with the photographer for a  little Q & A to get a deeper insight on his series. 

What is that you want this series  to say to the people who view it ?

You can make interesting photographs with the most unexpected devices. 

Is there a photo / piece that you are most proud of?

I think that the most interesting picture is the one with the mince meat and the pink garment. It is quite weird but strong!

Your last series focused on badly repaired car , what inspired that?

When I was living in east London, one day coming back from work I noticed a car repaired in a quite bizarre way. From that day I started focusing on this idea and decided to document and classify lots creative examples of DYI car repairs.

What artist inspires you the most?

Absolutely Martin Parr.

What work of art do you wish you owned?

Giorgio De Chirico  Piazza D’Italia.

To view more of this photographer’s work, visit Cargo Collective.

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LVMH Prize 2019 – Open Call For Young Designers

18.12.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

The LVMH Prize in it’s sixth edition since it’s launch has once again casted an open call for young designers.  The Prize is opened to designers under 40 all across the world who have produced at least womenswear, menswear or unisex collections.  The winner will receive 300,000 euros and a one-year mentorship program facilitated by the LVMH team. The Prize also acknowledges three young graduates who have completed a course in fashion school by presenting them with an opportunity to join the creative team at one of the houses of the group for a year as well as a 10,000 euro grant.  Last year’s winner Japanese designer Masayuki Ino was selected from among 1,300 candidates from across 90 countries, judged by a panel of International experts from the fashion industry. For more information visit LVMH.

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A deeper look(book): Isoscles, September 2018

17.12.2018 | Blog , Culture , Fashion | BY:

Isoscles’ lookbook reads like an inverted case of sharking, caught on the streets of Rome. There is an invited gaze – the woman is aware of herself as much as her vision. It almost reads as chapter five of John Berger’s ways of seeing: the self-awareness women profess and express. At the back of the SS19 imagery her friend and collaborator Cara Sheffler explores an experience of being up-skirted in New York, and the sensations she went through, parallel to how others perceived the act.

Taking ownership of how we are presented and how we present ourselves — not just to others but to ourselves — in a way requires us to objectify ourselves. The female gaze needs to supersede the male. 

Isosceles is a brand launched by Cicely Travers after a life of obsession for underwear, looking to create a label that gives pleasure to women in their own bodies. 

Currently supported by the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN scheme and in her fourth season, Cicely is illuminating the new frontier more brands are exploring- what we wear closest to our skin and how that comes to shape how we feel about ourselves for ourselves. 

Utilising sheer mesh, bright colours and unique panelling, Isosceles pulls the eye to her garments, and in turn the body itself. Through these bold combinations, it does not shy away, but it also does not define: it merely enhances what was there – a spirit, a mentality, a personality, a woman. 

As Cara Sheffler concludes on upskirting herself in order to explore her body and personal perception of it, If that isn’t self-possession, I cannot tell you what is. 

Isosceles Lingerie

What made you begin your brand Isosceles?

I started making knickers after I dropped out of art school – it was the only thing I was really motivated to do. After completing a degree in contour fashion and having little success in getting to the kinds of jobs I wanted,  I went for an internship with Jean Yu in New York. I was so inspired her work: its exquisitely beautiful couture silk lingerie, and her refusal to compromise her aesthetic. It was a form of art. It took me five years after that to build up the courage to start my brand but it happened in the simplest of ways- I found this fantastic fluorescent stretch mesh in Shepherds Bush and played around with cutting shapes and wrapping the body. It went from there. 

What was the inspiration behind your last collection? 

I always look to vintage lingerie, and sportswear for inspiration: for my September 2018 collection this was mixed with clubwear and harlequins. I’m inspired by the fabric I’m using and a lot of ideas come from draping on the stand. I feel there are constraints as to how creative I can be with my brand because Isosceles Lingerie is functional as well as innovative. I strive to push the boundary into what lingerie can be whilst acknowledging that lingerie is something that has to support and should be harmonious or complementary to your outer wear. 

Isosceles Lingerie

What did you want to explore in your September 2018 look book imagery? 

The photographer Amy Gwatkin and I were inspired by the photographer Roy Stuart who takes soft porn pics of ladies semi-exposed in public: we wanted to play with those themes of exhibitionist and voyeur. We made an early decision that the subject should always look in control and was taking pleasure from flashing, thus subverting the male gaze. I always try to ensure that models don’t look submissive in my imagery. It was also a fun opportunity to show how lingerie can amplify the enjoyment of wearing clothes. 

Isosceles Lingerie

What does sexy mean to you? 

Pure, guiltless pleasure. 

Do you think attitudes towards lingerie are changing? Is it made for the female gaze as much as the male gaze? 

From my perspective, I don’t think wearing nice lingerie has very much to do with the male gaze at all. It’s about feeling good in your skin, in your clothes, feeling beautiful and cherishing your body by wearing beautiful fabrics and colours next to your skin. Wearing a bra that fits you and improves your shape, changes your posture, puts a spring in your step: I enjoy the playfulness of it. I think we need to embrace these pleasures and love our bodies more. I would like to put a little more seduction into the everyday. 

I’m seeing a lot of great women run lingerie brands that are making lingerie directed to the female gaze and changing attitudes about the importance of lingerie. 

Isosceles Lingerie

What do you want your audience to take away from your brand? 

That they could see themselves wearing it and having fun with the bright colours. I hope that people see it as a brand with a conscience. 

If your brand was a song/album/book/film, what would it be?

If it were a book it would be Don’t Cry by Mary Gaitskill. It’s a collection of her short stories, one of my favourites is called “A dream of men”. It’s funny and insightful: she is such a compassionate writer and I think it’s important to be compassionate as a designer especially in this day and age.
If it were an album it would be The B52’s album of the same name because its irreverent, funny, and great to dance to and it was made in the year I was born. 

Isosceles Lingerie

Can underwear be a bonding mechanism for women? 

To me, yes. For example it was fascinating to do the shoot with a totally female team. We had a lot of fun and a lot of great talks about the way we feel about our bodies. You realise that everyone has body hang-ups, even people who seem confident. We all have complicated relationships with our bodies:  its liberating to strip off and strip away the facade. 

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Marni Resort 2019 – Compulsive Harmony

14.12.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

“Gentle subversion. Looking at reality through a filter, in pursuit of extreme beauty. “

A freshly-released Marni resort 2019 collection focuses on magnifying the traits of romanticism and elegance through the forms of pastel coloured, delicate established silhouettes. Designer Francesco Riso waved his magic wand and created a harmonious collection tied together by feminine distorted, draped and pleated pieces. Demure jackets, voluminous skirts, languid dresses, puffy skirts and soft printed dresses paired with metal-toed shoes and soft coloured leather jackets . The collection feels like a haiku pieced together by a delicate sophisticated feminist to her ex lover with the intentions of letting them know about the great strength she has gained from the horrible break up, with not too much but just enough words. Like an evening primrose, a flower which blooms in darkness, an enchantress of love which has metamorphosed her pain into a collection of welded silk, nylon, ostrich leather, denim and crepe de chine as a gesture of freedom. To view the full collection, visit Marni. 

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PH Museum 2018 Women Photographers Grant Winners

13.12.2018 | Art , Blog , Culture | BY:

Earlier this year the PH Museum announced the opening of their second annual women’s photography grant. The aim of the project geared towards female and non-binary photographers was to empower women from all sectors of photography from all corners of the world, regardless of age, colour and orientation. Recently, after great deliberation, the organization announced the winners of their 2018 grant.  With a jury composed of Aïda Muluneh (Photographer, Filmmaker and Curator), Alessandra Sanguinetti (Photographer), Karen McQuaid (Senior Curator, The Photographers’ Gallery) and Pamela Chen (Creative Lead, Instagram), the PH Museum awarded the first prize to the project “You Don’t Look Native To Me” by Romanian-born German photography Maria  Sturm who took the prize of £5,000 in cash along with additional opportunities for exposure.  “From all the submissions , it was not difficult for us to be drawn to the work of Maria Strum, capturing Native American youth and exploring the notion of identity in the American landscape. One of the key factors for selecting her work was not only based on her technical skills, but on her approach in capturing images that offer the viewer as a sympathetic and non-cliched insight into her subjects. In essence, her collection offers us a glimpse into a long term project that portrays a community at the crossroads of the past and future,” explained Aïda Muluneh.  The second prize of £2,000 was assigned to the work of  Australian photographer Sinead Kennedy, entitled Set Fire to The Sea, which was a project exploring the Australian Government’s policy of mandatory and indefinite detention for asylum seekers.  The third prize of £1,000 was claimed by Turkish photographer Sabiha Çimen whose work “KKK (Quran School For Girls)” documented the daily life of girls in attempt to memorise and practice the Quran in Instanbul, Turkey. “Sabiha leads us into the life of rituals and quiet rebellion in a strictly religious girls’ boarding school with a classic and disarmingly poetic approach. She presents the girls with gentleness and empathy while managing to capture the tension between the girls childlike, awkward play and the intense adult rules, expectations and limitations that are upon them,” explains Alessandra Sanguinetti. Additional prizes were also awarded to photographers whose works were too good to go unnoticed in the forms of honourable mentions, mini grants, Vogue Italia features and an opportunity for exhibition.

1st Prize | You Don’t Look Native To Me by Maria Sturm
2nd Prize | To Set Fire To The Sea by Sinead Kennedy
3rd Prize | KKK (Quran School For Girls) by Sabiha Çimen

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