Meet the original New York crew whose gothic style is one part fierce, two parts fly.

Photography: Danielle Levitt
Styling: Kathryn Typaldos

Tags: Danielle Levitt, Fashion, Kathryn Typaldos, new york, Video

For his A/W 12 collection, Alexander Wang put on quite the visual spectacle – mirrors, supermodel reunions and all – making his minimalist campaign lensed by David Sims and starring Kati Nescher a complete departure, but no less captivating.

The New York designer’s collection, inspired by the surrealist manipulation of fabrics, is presented in simple black and white studio photographs, all the better for highlighting Wang’s clean-lined tailoring and outerwear invigorated by accents such as the Cubist slicing of a high-collared coat or slightly macabre mouth-covering fishnet turtlenecks.

In the span of five short and extremely successful years, Wang has progressed from painfully hip downtown designer to a creator with finesse and these images are just the thing to prove it.

alexanderwang.com

Tags: Alexander Wang, AW12, campaign, David Sims, Fashion, Kati Nescher

Far from demure, white-on-white is the straight up, statement hue of the season.

Photography: Ben Weller
Styling: Naomi Miller

Tags: Ben Weller, Fashion, Naomi Miller, Video

Embrace the fantasy of florals with punchy psychedelic prints. Twin predicts a horticultural riot!

Photography: Jason Kibbler
Styling: Celestine Cooney

Tags: celestine cooney, Fashion, Jason Kibbler, Video

Ever since John Galliano’s departure from Dior in March last year, the fashion industry has been playing its own game of ‘designer ping – pong’ bouncing names back and forth in speculation as to who will take the creative reigns of the Parisian couture house. Jacobs – Tisci – Ackermann – Jacobs – Simons – Kane – Ackermann – Simons… It went on.

However after a year-long debate the rumours were finally put to rest yesterday as LVMH CEO, Bernard Arnault, announced that Raf Simons will take over as Artistic Director. Having left his previous post as Creative Director at Jil Sander earlier this year, Simons will commence work at his new design home with immediate effect, preparing for what will be his first Dior collection, which will be showcased at Couture Fashion Week in Paris this July.

Words: Sarah Barlow

Tags: Bernard Arnault, Christopher Kane, Dior, Fashion, Haider Ackermann, industry news, Jil Sander, John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, Raf Simons, Riccardo Tisci

It’s been two years since Sarah Burton was appointed creative director of Alexander McQueen. Since then, her success at the label has been nothing short of a phoenix rising from the ashes.

Following the tragic and sudden loss of Lee McQueen, his design assistant for over 14 years was immediately thrust into the large gap that the English enfant terrible of fashion had left. Aside from the mourning of such a close friend, the expectations on Burton to continue his legacy were another heavy burden for the Manchester-born designer to carry.

But rather than crumble under the pressure, she excelled. From the delicate, earth motherly collection for Spring/Summer 2011 with which she made her debut to the futuristically astounding designs for this season, Burton has stepped out of the shadow of Lee McQueen to become a distinguishable design talent in her own right. Here is a woman who unarguably embeds the label’s DNA into every piece, but has considerably lightened up the overall feel of every collection from the at times dark and tortured soul that we knew and loved about the late designer’s collections to something softer, but equally breathtaking.

There is not just her accomplishments at the main line label to praise: having debuted the brand’s diffusion line McQ on the runway in a military

and forest-inspired show this London Fashion Week, as well as establishing its first standalone boutique in the capital, Burton isn’t just continuing the brand founded by her mentor, she is reviving it. Managing to guide the label from a desolate tragedy into a bright future, it’s safe to say that Lee McQueen wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.

alexandermcqueen.com
m-c-q.com

Tags: Alexander Mcqueen, Fashion, Lee McQueen, london fashion week, McQ, Sarah Burton

In a world dominated by endless choice, sometimes the hardest decision can be deciding between one or the other. Enter Mélanie Crété’s highly addictive Tumblr blog, This or That.

Ranging from the age old question of Audrey versus Marilyn to Ferrero Rocher versus Mon Chéri, in Crété’s online world, everything boils down to the idea of a simple choice. We sat down with the digital marketing and social media manager to talk about the idea behind her blog, print versus digital and to play a round of This or That Twin style…

What prompted you to start This or That?
I have always been a bit obsessed with DIY collages and mood boards. Then Myspace came in and I discovered the joy of Photobucket while trying to teach myself photoshop and basic html, which I guess lead the way to This or That. When I started working in digital marketing and social media four years ago, I spent days researching blogs, organising them by theme in a very anal way and got completely hooked on Tumblr which I decided was the perfect platform to showcase my very messy iPhoto library. The concept somehow came very instinctively, the name came from the fact that I actually never know when to use ‘this’ or ‘that’ (I’m from Paris).

What is your main source of image inspiration?
Tumblr. My favourites are When Hearts Are Young and New York City Lights.

When did you first become fascinated with all things digital?
In 2000 when I installed Napster and ICQ on my PC.

How do you see the relationship between print and digital publications developing, will one replace the other?
Nothing will replace anything. I just see digital being integrated in all parts of the process with both digital and print teams working in synergy to produce amazing content and using different formats which is relevant to all platforms, including social media.

You are also a DJ, what are your top five favourite tunes of all time?
I used to DJ—I don’t think you can be good at everything so I had to make choices!
But my favourite tracks at the moment are:
The Pharcyde – Passing Me By
Machinedrum – Van Vogue
ASAP – Peso
Grimes – Oblivion
Mos Def – Auditorium

In the sense of This or That…Blackberry or iPhone?
iPhone.

Either coffee or tea?
Coffee.

Either Bikini Kill or Courtney Love?
Courtney Love.

Either The Rolling Stones or The Beatles?
Rolling Stones.

Either the city or countryside?
City during the week , countryside at the weekend.

Either Eddie or Patsy from Absolutely Fabulous?
Patsy.

Either an exhibition or a concert?
Concert.

thisorthatblog.com
facebook.com/thisorthatblog
twitter.com/melaniecrete

Tags: Blog, Fashion, Mélanie Crété, Music, photography, Tumblr

If London is known for anything as a fashion capital, it’s nurturing and supporting a hotbed of creative talents all across the design spectrum.

For a second year running, Selfridges has selected its Bright Young Things. The project allows 15 newcomers from the worlds of fashion, art, design and food talents to create a window display for its Oxford and Duke Street stores.

With participants this year including womenswear designer/illustrator and CSM graduate Sorcha O’ Raghallaigh, who specialises in intricate metallic coloured and lace designs (Lady Gaga is a fan)  and designer Maarten van der Horst, who gave a new and fashionable life to the otherwise dreaded Hawaiian prints, it’s a testament to the design talents that the Big Smoke has to offer.

For those more interested in non-fashion creativity, interior designer duo Tinker & Tailor have created a Twitter-friendly interactive space, while coffee connoisseur Jack Coleman made his own personal ode to the art of the brewing and roasting.

There’s never been a better reason to stop and take a closer look. Rush hour crowds notwithstanding.

Bright Young Things is on until February 29.
selfridges.com

Tags: Art, Bright Young Things, Design, Fashion, food, Jack Coleman, Lady Gaga, london, Maarten van der Horst, Selfridges, Sorcha O' Raghallaigh, Tinker & Tailor

This week marked the launch of The Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum, an archive of over 5000 images, videos and sketches set up in a three-dimensional palazzo landscape.

The fashion lover’s dream of a virtual maze, the tour animates the history of the Valentino empire, as well as the story behind the creation of the 79-year-old’s most iconic pieces. An ode to the lifework of the couturier who retired in 2008, the application is an engaging and fascinating look at one of the Twentieth Century’s most legendary designers. As breathtaking as one of Garavani’s designs in real life, Valentino gone virtual proves why fashion and technology make the perfect mix.

The Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum is available for download here

Tags: Fashion, The Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum, Valentino, Valentino Garavani

From Edith Head’s designs for Tippi Hedren in Alfred Hitchcock’s The Birds to Audrey Tautou portraying one of the 20th century’s most revolutionary couturiers in Coco Before Chanel, fashion and film have enjoyed a well-documented and fascinating relationship.

On screen, clothing embodies the unscripted role of sculpting characters – would Cruella De Vil be as villainous without her floor-length fur coats? Clothes create unforgettable moments such as Audrey Hepburn in a Givenchy little black dress outside Tiffany’s, adding to the aesthetic vision of a director – could one imagine Margot Tenenbaum in anything but her heavy eyeliner and preppy polo dresses?

Creative arts platform Test’s series of monthly film screenings and talks mark an intriguing new chapter in the genre. Accompanied by an introduction and Q&A with designer Roksanda Ilincic, the latest motion picture up for discussion will be Liliana Cavani’s The Night Porter starring Charlotte Rampling and Dirk Bogarde.

More than simply a night of stylish cinema, the event is a testament to the lasting power and iconicity of fashion in film.

Test Presents…The Night Porter Introduced By Roksanda Ilincic takes place at Town Hall Hotel & Apartments, Patriot Square, London E2 9NF on December 13 at 7:00 pm.

testmag.co.uk
townhallhotel.com

Tags: A Shaded View On Fashion Film Festival, Charlotte Rampling, Dirk Bogarde, Fashion, film, Gareth Pugh, Liliana Cavani, Roksanda Ilincic, Ruth Hogben, test, The Night Porter

Hussein Chalayan is one of those elusive designers who manages to create things that, season after season, leave one flabbergasted. A wooden coffee table/skirt hybrid, LED-lit sheaths and self-transforming robot dresses are just a few examples of ideas that have blossomed in the Cyprus-native’s mind.

Now in its final days of display, Hussein Chalayan: Fashion Narratives at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris pays tribute to a true fashion visionary. Comprised of past collections, installations, fashion shows, projections and research, the exhibition is as multi-layered as the CSM graduate’s work itself.

Even having to book an overpriced, last-minute ticket on the Eurostar seems like a small price to pay when you have the opportunity to spend an afternoon inside the mind of Chalayan the Great.

Hussein Chalayan: Fashion Narratives is at Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris until December 11th.

lesartsdecoratifs.fr
husseinchalayan.com

Tags: Central St. Martin's, exhibition, Fashion, Hussein Chalayan, Musée des Arts Décoratifs

The sun may be shining but we can’t help but lust after so the Autumn/Winter collections. One of the stand-outs was Sophia Kokosalaki’s collection for Diesel Black Gold. Since taking helm of the brand’s high-end line in 2009, Kokosalaki has brought her knack for mixing hard tailoring and soft feminine draping to the street-wear label, designing clothes that are cool, sexy and eminently wearable.

This time around, there wasn’t a blue denim jean in sight. Instead, raw shearling, glossy chestnut leathers and dark denim in Byronic tailoring were matched with oil-slick side-partings to create a look that was pure alt-opulence. It’s dress-up for the effortlessly self-assured.
dieselblackgold.com

Tags: diesel, Fashion, Gold, sophia kokosalaki

NOWNESS, ‘luxury lifestyle online’, today unveiled an exclusive fashion film entitled ‘Chronology’. In collaboration with Net-A-Porter, the film, by I Am Love director Luca Guadagnino, features highlights from the Autumn Winter 2010 collections of such Net-A-Porter bestsellers as Christopher Kane, Sigerson Morrison, Miu Miu and Yves Saint Laurent. Styled by Cathy Edwards and modeled by MariaCarla Boscono, the film combines commercial sense, a sharp edit and a dreamlike surrealism which is evocative of 2005 feature film Mirrormask.

www.nowness.com

Tags: Fashion, film, Katie Rose, Luca Guadagnino, Net-A-Porter, Nowness, twin, Twinfactory

Alison Mosshart is one of the most genuinely rock and roll women alive. Once again – with her musical partner Jamie Hince of The Kills – Mosshart is the face of the brand Zadig & Voltaire. Ok, the merger between fashion and music has been seen before – think Mark Ronson with Gucci, Kanye West with Louis Vuitton – but we love it anyway! Photographed by Olivier Zahm – the editor of Purple magazine and France’s answer to Terry Richardson – the band’s poise and pout is enough to make us head to their shop to find out whether their collection is as cool as their campaign.

www.zadig-et-voltaire.com

Words by Felicity Shaw

Tags: Fashion, Music, Olivier Zahn, The Kills, Zadig & Voltaire

Nashville blue skies, blazing sun and railroad tracks – cult film maker Harmony Korine’s fashion short Act Da Fool for Proenza Schouler’s A/W 10 collection is charming.  Korine follows a sweet gang of suburban girls clad in the labels paint drip patterns and leather as they idle away hot days – spraying, drinking and getting wild. These high-end little ladies roaming shopping trolley and tyre-strewn landscapes are – refreshingly – a million miles away from Proenza’s usual slick Manhattan habitat. It’s Kids gone high fashion. Korine clearly ain’t no fool.

Words by Boudicca Fox-Leonard.

Tags: Fashion, Harmony Korine, Proenza Schouler

Artist Gemma Land’s work references the surreal and the uncanny. With influences such as Dali and Lynch, her photographs of North London suburbia and moribund twins feature an unsettling symmetry.

For Land it’s all about contradictions. “The identical twins wearing the same outfits question our perception of the real,” she says. “They appear the same and yet are different at the same time.”

It’s an oxymoron that fascinates her and in her series of images of suburban semi-detached houses, Bourgeois Utopias, she shows how homes that started out as identical structures over time become individualised by their owners.

And like Dali before her, who merged fashion and art with his designs for Schiaperelli, earlier this year Land launched a collection of scarves of her surreal photographs for A/W 10 London Fashion Week. She is now planning a new range inspired by Gothic writer and Art collector Horace WalpoIe. In Land’s words: “It’s art disguised as fashion.”

In the meantime though, her fascination with all things twin continues and she is currently on the hunt for more identical siblings. It’s a subject we too find fascinating.

‘The Twins: Once and Again’ is at the Silent Room gallery until the 9th September.

www.silentroomgallery.com
www.gemmaland.com

Words by Boudicca Fox-Leonard

Tags: Fashion, Gemma Land