Yesterday saw John Galliano present his first collection for Maison Martin Margiela. Showing in an office block near Buckingham Palace, at the end of London Collections: Men and not in Paris during couture week – which is fast approaching – could have been his attempt to lure fashion editors and avoid going head-to-head with Dior.

Designers Alber Elbaz, Christopher Bailey and Manolo Blahnik were in attendance, as well as photographers Tim Walker, Nick Knight and Craig McDean. Kate Moss also arrived to show support and see the collection, as did Anna Wintour who has been a long time champion of Galliano.

There were intricate, gold-encrusted gowns of course, but it was the black suits that really caught our attention. We can’t help but think that although stunning, the clothes will end up taking a back seat. No one can forget the controversy surrounding the designer for what happened almost four years ago, and there will be those who are less than happy with his return. However, his talent for design cannot be overlooked.

maisonmartinmargiela.com

Tags: couture, John Galliano, Maison Martin Margiela

Central Saint Martins boasts a reputation as one of the world's most prestigious art schools. Now a group of its students have launched a biannual print publication celebrating the university's exceptional talents, entitled 1 Granary.

Founded and edited by Olya Kuryshchuk, the debut issue features alumni such as Katie Grand, Robin Derrick, Kate Phelan and John Galliano, as well as the most exciting new talent currently studying at CSM's King's Cross campus.

Twin spoke to associate editor Greg French about the magazine's inception, vision and future. Read on for the exclusive interview…

Central Saint Martins has had a longstanding reputation and legacy. In the age of digital publishing and university spending cuts, what made it important to do this magazine now?

I think it's incredibly important to be able to find a sense of permanent presence alongside digital publishing. There seems to be a constant conflict between digital and print, yet there needs to be more of an understanding that both can support and be used alongside each other to push concepts further than previously possible. It seemed important as it's a new beginning for the college in its new premises. We really wanted something physical to sit alongside our site, as a milestone for this great turning point in the college's history.

What ethos lies at the heart of 1 Granary?

At the heart of magazine are unity and hard w

ork, not only in terms of the amount of work that we put into establishing 1 Granary, but also in the level of craftsmanship that is put into each garment, artwork and editorial content that we show. It's about showcasing all the amazing talent and saying that it is possible and achievable, regardless of what is or isn't happening in the education system or the economy.

How would you describe the process of putting together the debut issue, were there any surprises or directional changes?

It was actually really liberating. I've worked on magazines before, but this was the first thing that wasn't bound to anything. We didn't answer to anyone and that gave us a platform to experiment, try new things and do it completely in the way that we wanted. We have an amazing team and had so much fun putting it all together. It was exhausting at times as we were all juggling internships, jobs and college work, but at the same time it was our way of resting because we loved doing it so much.

What can we expect for Issue No. 2?

It's still very much in its early stages, but the main thing you can expect is a continuing debut of really great, fresh, raw talent and a team that isn't afraid to take risks.

1 Granary Issue #1 is available to pre-order and hits newstands on May 20.

1granary.com

Tags: 1 Granary, Central Saint Martins, John Galliano, Kate Phelan, Katie Grand, Robin Derrick

This year’s Autumn/Winter 2012 haute couture shows were another testament to signature style. Be it the modern romance of Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli or Giambattista Valli’s ever-enticing plays on volume and silhouettes, the one unifying factor  throughout every collection was a representation of each brand’s true essence, underlined by highly-refined tailoring and draping.

Twin selects our favourite personal visions of the season…

Bouchra Jarrar

Couture cool is Jarrar’s calling card and although those expecting overtly dramatic ball gowns or extravagant embellishments from couture may be disappointed, her softly draped tunic dresses and forties-esque trench coat top and A-line, knife-pleated skirt combinations add a modern yet elegant touch to the couture circuit. As they say, sometimes less is more.

Chanel

This season Karl Lagerfeld saw it as his mission to put a new spin on vintage. While the collection managed to revamp classics such as the tweed suit, tea dresses and peter pan collars in a colour palette that included soft shades such as petal rose and cream, its true appeal was in the unmatchable craftsmanship of the house of Chanel. Hundred upon hundreds of hand-sewn sequins and a breathtaking feather, lace and tulle finale dress were just two examples that further solidified the label’s spot at the top of couture pyramid.

Dior

Couture week undoubtedly belonged to Raf Simons. Although he might have not been the most obvious successor to Galliano’s theatrical showings, the Belgian designer’s minimalist aesthetic has proved the perfect partner to Christian Dior’s original elegant and strongly feminine designs. Peplum waist tops and dresses paired with straight cut trousers, not to mention the two-sided evening gowns with crystal embellishments put a refreshingly modern spin on New Look-esque silhouettes.

Gambattista Valli

Nymph creatures and a fairytale narrative were woven into every fibre of Valli’s designs. Rich emerald greens and ruby garnet florals were printed on high-necked ruffled cocktail dresses and evening gowns cinched in at the waist with gold ivy belts. With a beautiful play of volume and colour, the collection was an all-round dream.

Givenchy

Riccardo Tisci’s tribal warrior was equipped with face-obscuring sunglasses and menacing dogs, but that didn’t keep the collection from being feminine and alluring, thanks to halter necklines and iridescent ombre fringing. In short, it was a well-balanced mixture of elegance, urbanism and the beauty of nature.

Maison Martin Margiela

In the light of the brand’s upcoming collaboration with high street retailer H&M, some fear that the house of Margiela will succumb to commercialism. However this collection was a piece of avant-garde artistry. From the crystal face masks to the dynamic collages of fabric and textures. Refreshing and original, it proved why Maison Martin Margiela more than deserves a permanent spot on the haute couture schedule.

Valentino

Midnight blue dresses, fully-sequined, brocade printed and embroidered cocktail pieces, as well as floor-length pleated chiffon gowns made this collection one of typical Valentino glamour, whilst  canary yellow, magenta and blood red added rich pops of colour. In our eyes, Chiuri and Piccioli can do no wrong.

Tags: Bouchra Jarrar, Chanel, Dior, Giambattista Valli, Givenchy, haute couture, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld, Maison Martin Margiela, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Pier Paolo Piccioli, Raf Simons, Riccardo Tisci, Valentino

Ever since John Galliano’s departure from Dior in March last year, the fashion industry has been playing its own game of ‘designer ping – pong’ bouncing names back and forth in speculation as to who will take the creative reigns of the Parisian couture house. Jacobs – Tisci – Ackermann – Jacobs – Simons – Kane – Ackermann – Simons… It went on.

However after a year-long debate the rumours were finally put to rest yesterday as LVMH CEO, Bernard Arnault, announced that Raf Simons will take over as Artistic Director. Having left his previous post as Creative Director at Jil Sander earlier this year, Simons will commence work at his new design home with immediate effect, preparing for what will be his first Dior collection, which will be showcased at Couture Fashion Week in Paris this July.

Words: Sarah Barlow

Tags: Bernard Arnault, Christopher Kane, Dior, Fashion, Haider Ackermann, industry news, Jil Sander, John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, Raf Simons, Riccardo Tisci