On the occasion of their fifth anniversary, Italian minimalist brand SUNNEI adopted an urban space in the Rubattino area of eastern Milan, which they transformed into what they now dub as Bianco Sunnei. The space, an entirely normal concrete area that sat underneath a giant bridge in Milano’s Parco dell’Acqua and has been regenerated as a visual oasis coated in white paint. A type of maximal minimalism that didn’t call for much to make a statement than a well thought out concept. This sort of effortless assertive simplicity was strung throughout the brand’s SS2020 collection which had their freshly created space as it’s backdrop.
The collection was aimed towards a specific colour palette which not only complemented the space, but embraced some of the house’s iconic runway history , from plain white, to the khaki browns, somber citruses, lime greens to sky blues and midnight blacks. Each transition gliding into another as if it were some sort of poetry. But not just any kind of poem, no, this was a haiku — three lines, seventeen syllables, 17 words. Very simple but meticulously planned as to evoke all the right feelings. Boxy volumes were in abundance with cargo pants, monochromatic suits, denim jackets and coats, knit dresses that explore a few moments of layering. Fabrics move like liquid as the brand uses this moment to highlight their collaboration with Albiate 1830 — a branch of Italian eco-friendly fabric company Albini. This is seen through 3D woven nylon yarns, fresh leathers, and a deckchair-striped cotton poplin. Last season the designer duo presented a collection as a stance resistant against the wave of streetwear by referencing the 2000s. This season they affirmed that notion of in some ways being anti-fashion- Not like Rick Owens anti-fashion, and although similar not even Marni’s anti-fashion. Just simply riding , moving , sketching to the beats of their own rhythms, which happens to be in the opposite direction of everyone else. Either way this has become the duo’s strong suit.
Artist+AI: Figures & Form in the Age of Intelligent Machines
Cover Image: Hyperbolic Composition 1 by Scott Eaton
This evening American artist Scott Eaton debuts his first solo exhibition at the Somerset House in London under the themes of the convergence of the human hand and technology of artificial intelligence. Throughout the exhibition generative artificial intelligence (AI) is morphed with century old practices of drawing and sculpting. As an interdisciplinary artist with a background in anatomy, Eaton creates pieces that offer new perception on the understanding of the human form.
“For as long as humans have made art, the figure has been a primary focus of creative exploration. In each age new tools, techniques and styles influence how the figure is portrayed. Often the tools remain the same -pencil, charcoal, paint, clay – but the style changes – impressionism, cubism, surrealism, abstract expressionism. At certain times, however, there are seismic advances in technology that create entirely new possibilities for representation – photography, moving image, animation … and now AI” the artist explains. “The magic of the process is revealed,” Eaton says, “when you guide the AI to create something unlike anything it has seen before: ‘The AI has no choice but to do what I ask, no matter how difficult or unreasonable my request. The result is often a wondrous, unexpected, interplay of visual ideas, both mine and the machine’s.” The exhibition opens it’s doors on June 18th and will run throughout the week until June 23rd.
Last week three young designers under the Fashion East Initiative presented their SS2020 collections. A small tribe of Londoners and British fashion school alumni who each spoke with very different voices.
Saul Nash SS2020Saul Nash SS2020Saul Nash SS2020
The newest designer to the bunch was British dancer and choreographer Saul Nash who opened the showcase and his section of the evening with a group of models standing on the runway. Followed by a dance performance upon the guests being seated. This performance helped to show off Nash’s construction abilities in creating functional pieces with technical fabrics, curved zippers and mesh. From steel grey nylon pants, to light blue tracksuits. Each piece was made with an awareness of comfort and sensitivity towards movement.
Irish designer Robyn Lynch presented a solid coloured men’s collection inspired by the sport uniforms worn throughout Irish communities in earlier decades. This was brought out through a selection of cable knit sweaters, terry cloth shorts, t-shirts and cropped sweatpants all rendered in a palette of mint greens, lilac and cornflower blues.
Mowalola SS2020Mowalola SS2020Mowalola SS2020
Nigerian designer Mowalola Ogunlesi showcased her second collection with Fashion East that was inspired by her experiencing the woes of romantic love for the first time, “I’ve just fallen in love for the first time and I feel as if no one talks about the horrific side, the dangers of love, losing control of your emotions and feeling like your crazy. It’s like a horror movie. So this is as if I’m in a black Woodstock Festival and someone has been murdered,” she explained. And henceforth this included looks with gunshot wounds placed against large lip prints, religious symbols in colourful halter necked suits, skin tight pants, revealing bodices, jumpsuits, and coats made from leather, cotton and cowhide fabrics.
LFW: Charles Jeffrey SS2020 Menswear: 21st Century Punk Rock
All Images by Chris Yates
Last weekend British designer Charles Jeffrey revealed his SS2020 men’s collection during London Fashion Week. Within the past few seasons Jeffrey has established himself to be not just a designer but a showman, a thespian, a poet who doesn’t just put needle to thread without there being deep intention manifested behind it. Each season the designer has delivered full on productions that leaves his audience in wonder of the world around them about matters that are often so blatantly obvious, repackaged and re-presented by the designer in a way that manifests itself within the viewer. Last season Jeffrey presented an exhilarating and immersive Weimar Republic club performance with nods to Peter Pan and sexuality. However this season the designer opted for a rather more sober tone as he drew inspiration from the concept of punk culture and the idea of how it was created as a default to the times in which we lived.
This collection as he said, was “an eruption beneath violent pressure, as a diamond under the heat,” in reference to the political, social and natural climates in which we currently live. His show began with the designer himself walking down the runway of The British Library reading a passage from “In the Beginning,” by Dylan Thomas. Followed by a collection of seersucker suiting, featherweight jacquards referencing armour and civil service uniforms in reference to the need for both freedom and protection; opal blue silk column dresses styled with contradictory military jackets and some pieces containing intricately layered rips and tears representative as sorts of fault lines.
Some models sported full face paintings done and extravagant head pieces and fishnet stockings which reinforced the collection’s punk influence. The collection was acted almost like a map, like a polaroid of this generation’s pain and demise, a prediction maybe, of what such a movement like the punk subculture would have looked like in the year 2019.
Rob Raco, one of the stars of American Drama Netflix Series Riverdale has been recently shot as the face of Fendi’s SS19 men’s eyewear campaign Released this weekend, the campaign features the musician and actor in a short film flaunting sunglasses from the collection. Throughout the video, Fendi makes a point that sunglasses should be worn at any time of the day as it sets Raco on a cosy living space being documented from sunrise, through morning, afternoon and sunset. Each change of time is signalled through the the change of sunglasses and wardrobe. As he’s captured in enjoyment of the moments while his voiceover plays in the background:
“I like to know when the daylight comes.
The shape. From purples to pink.
I know when I can feel it.
How your mood turns into a different colour.”
The Fendi SS19 eyewear collection is now in stores and online. View the full film here and shop the collection at Fendi.com
In celebration for this year’s Pride festivities Nike launches it’s BeTrue collection in support of the LGBTQ+ community with a smashing campaign. Earlier this week, in partnership with Out Magazine, Nike released the images for the collection that were done in collaboration with the estate of Gilbert Baker — the political activist who claimed the rainbow for LGBTQ+ people by creating the pride flag.
The campaign shot by photographer Marcus Smith features the likes of some of sports’ most important LGBTQ+ names including Caster Semenya, Sue Bird, Chris Mosier, Brittney Griner, Kerron Clement among many others. All decked out in this year’s updated merch which includes collection of shoes, accessories and clothes highly influenced by the pride flag. Such as the Air Max 720 in a rainbow palette with Baker’s signature on the back, The Air Tailwind 79 with a rainbow heel, the Zoom Pegasus Turbo in a full rainbow stripe with glitter and sparkles among other products. In tune with the initiative, the brand will also grant financial support to 20 LGBTQ+ organisations including the GLBT historical Society, the Hetrick-Martin Institute, The National Gay Basketball Association and You Can Play. The Nike BeTrue 2019 collection is now available online and in selected stores worldwide.
Matches Fashion x Paco Rabanne 1969 Pre-Collection
Yesterday French fashion house Paco Rabanne in partnership with London based luxury retailer Matches Fashion launched an exclusive silvery of the house’s 1969 anniversary bag and AW19 pre collection with an installation at Matches’ space at 5 Carlos Place.
The Paco Robanne 1969 anniversary bag bridges past and present through iconic design and artisanal technique. Assembled by hand, the bag is the quintessential expression of Paco Rabanne – avant garde when created 50 years ago and timelessly modern today.
Image by Cat Garcia
The installation is an immersive experience which welcomes customers into Paco Rabanne’s world through two channels. One as a chainmail cube that focuses on luminosity and curiosity, pulling stimuli for inspiration from the 1969 bag collection and it’s unique aspects. The other is a twist to the AW19 collection that curates an environment with films representing the landscapes of David de Beyter and digital tutorials on LED screens that explain how to wear pieces from the collection. Both installation act as booths for photos where costumers are free to interact with the products and the curated environment that accompanies them.
The 1969 anniversary collection will be available exclusively at MATCHESFASHION.COM for the month of June and the installation at 5 Carlos Place will run until the 26th of June.
Last weekend, the National Coalition Against Censorship and photographer Spencer Tunick staged a nude installation in New York City in protest against the censorship of artistic nudity on Facebook and Instagram. The campaign, set outside the headquarters of the social media entities featured over 100 nudes bodies who were in stance against the level of censorship included in the current instagram guidelines. For the protest, no genitals or female nipples are visible. All female nipples were entirely and meticulously covered with stickers representing male nipples, sourced and created by NCAC and Tunick. All genitals were additionally covered with large round cardboard cutouts also representing male nipples. All visible nipples are male. And yet, the images were still censored when posted online and the campaign’s hashtag was blocked by instagram.
Svetlana Mintcheva, NCAC’s Director of Programs, said, “Here we have the suppression of an awareness campaign that falls within community guidelines with no option to appeal. We are asking Facebook to work with us so that artists do not have to face the frustration and sense of helplessness provoked by such a turn of events.”
To stand in support of the NCAC’s initiative, one can join the fight here as a We The Nipple campaign signatory.
Nike Taps Four of Fashion’s Most Promising Females Ahead of Women’s World Cup 2019
Cover Image: Nike x Koché
Just in time for the 2019 Women’s World Cup in June, Nike released their new collaborative campaign this week featuring four of fashion’s most promising female designers. For the collaboration Ambush’s Yoon Ahn, LVMH Prize recipient Marine Serre, Koché’s Christelle Kocher and MadeMe’s Erin Magee redesigned the classic football jersey with matching sports bras from their own perspective of these sports staples.
Yoon Ahn of AMBUSH created a jersey that speaks to diversity by reflecting aspects of Asian culture in a unisex hybrid jersey inspired by the Happi coat, which is a traditional Japanese straight sleeved coat.
“ I chose the happy coat because, although we are celebrating the tournament and the incredible female players, I believe it is just as important for the fans, for everyone to have universal piece to celebrate in,” she explained.
Nike x AMBUSH
Nike x AMBUSH
Christelle Kocher’s vision however, stemmed from the idea of creating a sort of elegant asymmetry. “I created this dress by reconstructing the soccer jersey around the female body. The result is a dress that can be worn by a girl who plays, dances or moves in the city,” she stated.
Nike x Koché
Nike x Koché
Marine Serre was of course able to offer a version of the signature print which has aided in gaining her recognition over the past few seasons by presenting it in a printed body suit worn under a slender neon green jersey. “The focus of my design is always hybridity and adapting to daily life. It’s important to create a purposeful line that makes a female feel good without compromising style,” said Serre.
Nike x Marine Serre
Nike x Marine Serre
MadeMe’s Erin Maggee instead paid homage to the U.S Women’s National team of the 90’s with a match ready Nike stadium jersey featuring the USA federation crest. “I wanted this jersey to be sport first, fashion second. It’s meant to celebrate the incredible victorious history of the USWNT by drawing attention to the woman namesake of the iconic sportswear company itself: Nike the Goddess of Victory.”
Nike x MadeMe
Nike x MadeMe
The collection will be available for purchase at NikeLab stores globally and a few retailers as of June 7th.
Cover Image: Still from To Spoor A Stockroom by Dorothy Feaver
Today in East London, opens a new and interesting exhibition at the Silver Building space in Silvertown. “Pervilion at Silver Building,” curated by Dorothy Feaver features the likes of scent, sculpture and film creatives, respectively Katharina Dubbick, Jack O’brien and Stella Scott. For the show, these artists explore the various states of dissolution as they replicate and activate the defunct of the boiler rooms of a sixties office block. Proposing several ways in which the body may register, absorb and release tensions within a built environment.
In the concrete chambers the Silver Building, sculptor Jack Obrien presents a series of hanging sculptures titled “Buildings that Weep” that approach the body’s complex interactions with surrounding physical structures. Featuring husk-like forms, made of pigmented silicon, silicon chains and taut lines that trace the folds of drapery while mimicking the patterns of veins and muscular definition. While scent designer Katharina Dubbick fills the upper boiler room with an installation called “Time Capsule 7.23am (2019).”
“I want to capture the moment of exhaustion after a climax – the sense of space that’s left when feelings settle, ” she explains. Through steam the space is filled with scents that stimulate associations of sweat, saliva, sex, gin and tonic, cigarettes, smoke, sticky skin among other products, capturing the smells of latex and body odour with the help of perfumer Meabh McCurtin. And in a film entitled “To Spoor Stockroom (2019)”, filmmaker Stella Scott tracks liquid cycles that confront the sanitised the future and fetishisation of space in central London. The exhibition is a response to both the pressures and pleasures of the urban fabric of London, presented in abstract ways to intrigue the entire human sensory system. The exhibition will run for four days and close its doors on June 2nd.
Yesterday Italian fashion house Prada opened the doors to their Marchesi 1824 store in Central London. The pastry shop, the first of it’s kind outside of Milan, replicates the scenery of it’s Italian location. The Pasticceria Marchesi, founded in 1824, has overtime become one of Milan’s signature spots, known for its fine patisseries, chocolates and traditional Milanese panettone. This vision of traditional elegance was channelled in it’s London location with elegant cherry furnishings and carefully restored tiling provided for the convenience of the enjoyment of the store’s wide selection of traditional Italian confectionery. The Pasticceria Marchesi is currently opened to the public and sits along Mount Street in Mayfair.
Somerset House Studios : Get Up, Stand Up Now – June 12th – September 15th
This summer London’s Somerset House Studios will host an event in celebration of 50 years of black creativity and culture in Britain through an exhibition of art, music, photography, film , literature, design and fashion. The exhibition, set to debut on the 12th of June will feature a round up of around 100 interdisciplinary artists whose works are centred around the black experience and sensibility around the culture as they explore the definitions of what it means to be black in Britain today.
The series will feature several days of live music, drag, and performance art, as they aim to nurture a safe free space for black youth of all kind. This will feature names like Black Obsidian Sound System (B.O.S.S) — a led sound system whose events prioritise the comfort and safety of black and non-white women , femmes queers and trans folk who will be taking over the House’s Lanchester Rooms for a few nights in July. An evening of poetry in August entitled “Deep End” and a series of club night performances called “No Tea, No Shade” addressing the use of drag culture. For more information, visit Somerset House.
Cecilie Bahnsen x Matches Fashion Capsule Collection
Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen recently teamed up with luxury retailer Matches Fashion on the release of a fifteen-piece collection released this week . The collection, a continuation of her SS19 collection, includes a selection of the designer’s signature feminine designed accentuated with embroidery, beading and other details.
“The designs for the exclusive capsule collection are a beautiful continuation of our last collection. Combining sculptural silhouettes with couture techniques reinterpreted for Matches Fashion woman,” explained the designer.
For the collection, Bahnsen collaborated with a few female creatives including teenager Margrethe Hjort Hay who inspired the floral beadings as well as photographer Josefine Seifert who shot the editorial. In celebration of the collaboration, Cecile has also put on an installation open to the public until June 1st, at the Matches Fashion Mayfair townhouse, featuring furniture from Swedish Design Group Magniberg and the work of glass artist Nina Norgaard to stylishly accompany the designer’s collection. The Cecilie Bahnsen x Matches Fashion collection will soon be available online Matches Fashion.
British visual artist Nevine Mahmoud recently partnered with London art gallery Soft Opening on her first European solo exhibition entitled ‘Belly Room.’ The exhibition which opened earlier this month features a selection of five sculptures carved from marble and hand-blown glass. Throughout the themes of the exhibition, the artist explores her ongoing interest in disembodied body parts with the series of glass forms that represent single breasts and full busts, re-opening the conversation around women’s bodies and their objectification thereof.
With a palette of pinks, amber and nude, the translucent sculptures subtly distort and dissect the female human form, with each sculpture swelling and sagging along the walls of the gallery. The sculpture series also includes curving marble slides and sheets mimicking a sort of abstract plastic humanity.
Throughout the exhibition, “the artist negotiates the boundary distinguishing perception and expectation. Searching for a form at once recongnizable and alienated, these uncanny sculptures reverberate with suggestive innuendo.”
The belly room is currently open at the Soft Opening in London and will run until June 30th.
Fendi has recently partnered up with American professional BMX athlete on their latest installation of the F IS FOR.. FENDI campaign. The feature sees the athlete sporting an outfit from the house’s SS19 collection, doing 360s and rear wheel jumps with his one of a kind FENDI bike at the Fendi Headquarters in Rome.
The F IS FOR.. FENDI initiative began as a platform for Millennials made to share stories and experiences relevant to the generation that are in line with the Maison’s DNA. This is brought out through fashion editorials and interviews with musicians, artists, athletes and all types of creatives.
Earlier this year adidas original joined forces with Italian brand Fiorucci for the release of a collaborative capsule collection.
A pairing that worked so well that they had to do it twice. This month the brands announced the release of a second collection perfectly tailored for the waves of the summer. The campaign features a bevy of girls decked out bright coloured swimwear, jackets, shorts, sandals and sneakers. Each of the collection’s pieces combines the sporty aesthetic of Adidas original with the bold graphics and identity of Fiorucci. The collection is now available on Fiorucci.
During the past few days make up artist Thomas De Kluyver has partnered with photographers Harley Weir, Fumiko Imano, Shama Osborne, Lea Colombo among others for the release of an IDEA book entitled All I Want To Be. The book, launched at Dover Street Market last week features exclusive work created by de Kluyver and his team of creatives as they explore themes of gender identity, politics, representation and individual expression in beauty and fashion. ”I want people to have fun with make-up and experiment with their identity,” he explains.
Throughout the book, the 150 pages are brought to life by the colourful images of these talented creatives which are introduced with a beautiful poem by Wilson Oryema on the fluidity of identity.
“It talks about how our identities are never fixed, or set, and how important it is to be able to express ourselves the way we want to. Our starting point for All I Want To Be was making sure we captured the people that feature in it somewhere they felt safe. So many of the images are shot in bedrooms, bathrooms… The kind of places we’re able to shut the door and experiment with who we are freely and without any judgement,” explains the photographer. The book concludes with photographer Harley Weir’s chapter which features a cast of full body painted subjects. Given the themes of the book, the photographer will also be donating a share of the proceeds to gender non conformity charity Mermaids UK.
“The world of fashion and beauty has a long history of challenging gender norms but more needs to be done to represent the beauty within all of us, regardless of our gender. We hope Thomas will continue to be a powerful force in gender acceptance in an industry that shapes the way our society understands power and beauty” said Susie Green Mermaids UK CEO. Thomas De Kluyver’s All I Want To Be is currently on shelves at Dover Street Market London.
inner/ outer / self by Oliver Hadlee PearchAwake by Lea Colombo
Parisian fashion house Balenciaga has unveiled the imagery for their Fall 2019 campaign set in Morocco, shot by French photographer Jean-Pierre Attal. For the campaign the photographer references his work series “Paysages Ethonographiques” where random subjects usually found in cosmopolitan scenery are casually placed in desert lands. The Balenciaga Fall 19 campaign takes on a similar narrative as the photographer’s subjects, decked out in full Balenciaga looks are placed in the Moroccan desert in a way that seems to be almost too contradictory to be real, blurring the lines between urban & suburban, real & surreal.
German photographer Alexander Binder has been known as a self taught photographer gifted with the abilities of taking his viewers on psychedelic trip into a universe full of contrasts, and oddities using his craft vintage lenses, prisms and optical toys. His work has been featured in several mainstream media outlets including Vice Sleek and even Twin’s 2011 issue.
In his work, Binder explores the blurred lines between the real and surreal, fiction and fantasy, but his latest work is a venture into what is known as the subconscious. Inspired by Sigmund Freud’s famous paperback “The Interpretation of Dreams,” Binder’s series entitled “A Glimpse Into The Bardo” explores the abstract and symbolic aspects of consciousness. In an effort to make this venture as accurate as possible, the photographer had to learn to suppress his conscious control over the photographic process and in aid of this he used pinhole lenses, double exposures and various filters which made it nearly impossible for him to predict the final result. For an even further “Glimpse Into The Bardo,” we sat down with the artist himself to discuss the process.
What was it like suppressing your conscious instincts during the creation of this series? Were you ever tempted to check if everything was going well?
Our brain is pretty creative in inventing excuses to exert conscious control over everything we do. Not to forget that we live in a time where “thinking”, “control” and “rational behavior” are highly valued competences. We monitor our health-status 24/7 via fitness-trackers and we love listening to people who explain our world in rational terms.
So actually it was difficult and I had to use several methods to trick myself. I guess it helped a lot that I have been working with self-made lenses, prisms and pinhole cameras for more than a decade because these tools make it almost impossible to predict the final results in detail.
Another way to limit my conscious thinking was a chaotic timing for the whole editing process. Some of the images were on my hard drives for more than three years before I even had a look at them – and some of the photos were made in less than three days.
How long did it take you to create the entire series?
Several years and I am still working on new images for this constantly evolving project.During the process I realized that this specific series maybe doesn’t need a real beginning or an end. I don’t want to sound too esoteric but it just “is”.
What from Sigmund Freud’s “The interpretation of dreams sparked this concept?
There is actually one paragraph that caught my attention:
“The dream-content is (…) presented in hieroglyphics, whose symbols must be translated, one by one (…). It would of course, be incorrect to attempt to read these symbols in accordance with their values as pictures, instead of in accordance with their meaning as symbols.”
(Source: “The interpretation of dreams” 1913 / Chapter 6 “The Dream Work”)
This is exactly the way that I wanted to look at the photographs. There is nothing to understand about these images with your rational mind. They are abstract symbols that have to be interpreted step by step. Something like a Rorschach test that helps to assess an individual’s personality – or at least trigger some questions about yourself, your hopes, fears and desires.
Being inspired by Sigmund Freud’s “The interpretation of dreams , a book which speaks to the exploration of dreams as our “unconscious wishes,” do you think the end result from this series may hold some personal underlying connotation to you as well?
Yes, I think so. When I look at the series today I see a deep, almost romantic wish for some kind of nature mysticism.
What’s your favourite image from the series? Why?
There is one image that stuck in my head and I don’t remember when or how I took the photo. It’s one of the most abstract images of the series and it has – at least for me – a very strong, symbolic quality.
Honestly I don’t even know whether I like it or not but it resonates with me on a very subtle level. It makes me think about much more than a blurry black-and-white photograph, a bright light or the vague depiction of a wing-like object. As Symbolist poet Mallarmé said it’s not about the thing, but the effect which it produces. (See Below)
What would you like viewers to take away from this series?
The series doesn’t have a single-minded message or narrative. It doesn’t help trying to “understand” these images in the classical sense, e.g. recognizing specific objects.
Like Freud said, these are more or less hieroglyphics. And everybody has to interpret them in his own way and look for a personal meaning. So the only thing that I wish viewers would do, is that they took their time and let the photos open the doors to their subconscious.
What are you up to next? Will you continue to explore the subconscious?
The exploration of the subconscious is one of the key motivations and goes far beyond my photographic activities. There is so much to read, learn and also experience that one lifetime is not enough.
I just returned from Northern India where I had the chance to get a deeper understanding of Tibetan culture and especially the Tibetan art in its various forms – from mesmerizing Thangka paintings to otherworldly bronze statues. So there will definitely be a photo project not about, but heavily influenced by this journey.
Earlier this week Parisian luxury label Celine released part 1 fo their 2019 Winter campaign under the direction of freshly appointed Creative Director Hedi Slimane.
The campaign shot by the creative director himself, captures the French bourgeois feel that was embodied on the FW19 runway featuring models Marland and Adrien as his muses. The models are clad in Celine from head to toe as they slouch around in some of the full looks from the runway. The campaign features a simple and quite relaxed approach to luxury which echoes the creative director’s intent for the FW19 collection itself. To view the full campaign and the short film accompanied, visit Celine.