Men’s Fall Winter 2020-21 marked the dawn of a fresh new direction for creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi. This season, guests were invited to the FENDI headquarters in Milan to witness the presentation of Madam Fendi described as the man of tomorrow. With this notion, she crafted a collection with retro-futurist undertones. The goal was to approach menswear and clothing on a whole from an entirely different perspective, seeing a garment as a body wallet.

A vessel which can and should evolve throughout time. Inside – out constructions and quilting were traced across blazers, coats cut in compact matte satin and outerwear shapes in waterproof gabardine were bonded with felt tabs and FENDI Roma taped seams. There was a sort of gender fluidity throughout the collection, as some jackets were cropped and  a few pants were tailored to move like skirts. 

The house also debuted pieces of their collaboration with Japanese designer Anrealage who added a selection of photochromic outerwear and accessories that transform with the FF logo when exposed to UV sunlight.

Tags: Fendi, menswear fw20, Milan Fashion Week

This menswear season, creative director Miuccia Prada was conflicted, stuck between contradictions and dichotomies as the theme for her FW20 menswear collection.

Guests were invited into the classic PRADA space in Milan, which was transformed by AMO into two identical voids. Situating the audience above looking down on the depths of a colourful arena like runway with a white statue of a man on a horse centrestage.  The collection itself was a bridge between opposites: new & old, past & present. Madam Prada played on the notion of creating classic menswear with subtle touches of modernity. Some models donned full three piece linen suits white others sported versions of the house’s classic nylon fits.

There were stylised gumboots, leather & shearling vests and a flash of pajama patterns in liking to the work of artists during the Vienna Secessions which signalled towards the finale (these are bound to be a hit by Prada fanatics ). This season the designer took the time to deliver a collection which she described as optimistic and valuable. 

“ I thought to give an indication that only thing that makes me calm and optimistic is to give value to work… to give value to things that matter any our life and your work, and so the creativity is mixed with technicalities, which is a little bit similar to the Secessionist period when ideas, creativity, and actual work had to be all together,” she explained. 

Tags: Menswear, menswear fw20, Milan Fashion Week, prada

Let’s dance.

Let’s dance ’til the end of love.

Let’s dance our best days away.

Let’s dance to keep the abyss at bay.

Let’s dance until everything changes.

Until fashion flows, in a blow.

Let’s dance.

Like a body of work,

To the rhythm

of a hymn.

Was an excerpt from, “ A call from Prince Prospero,” a part of Marni’s FW20 men’s press release. This season creative director Francesco Riso escorted  his audience into a psychedelic trance of poetic movement. With the help of choreographer Michele Rizzo , the designer curated a performance which seamlessly crafted garments as a creative collective. Clothing was given new life by matching pieces which were crafted from once useless scraps. Trousers were composed of multi coloured fabrics, trench coats bisected and reassembled from a variety of textures. Left sides were asymmetric to right, hems scaled like waves and pants bore holes just small enough to appear eaten.

Every look was deliberately curated to fit too wide, or too long or too big. With a unconventional approach to tailoring, each piece fit so wrong yet so right. A side from the magnificent performance, the clothing spoke in a way that was paradoxically trendy, with a voice that only some could hear, appealing to a customer that understands what it means to be entranced by  fashion with a capital F. 

Tags: fw20, Marni, Menswear, menswear fw20, Milan Fashion Week