Mark Tallowin’s journey to becoming a designer of luxury leather goods is far from ordinary. Living in the desert of westTexas, one day he found himself fashioning a knife from a chunk of railway track. Of course all good knifes need a hand-stitched leather sheath, and from there a love affair began.
After locking himself away in what he described as “self imposed cave” for a year, studying, he collected his designs and boldly took them to one of the most respected ateliers. Tallowin understood that he needed to get as much advice from those in the know to really create something worthy of an industry one could describe as oversaturated.
To make sure every inch of his creations are practical, just as much as they are beautiful, Tallowin conducted what he called his 4.4.8. Experiment. After designing and creating four prototypes, he handed over the handbags to Jess Cartner-Morley of The Guardian, Camilla Johnson-Hill of The Production Club, Illustrator Extraordinaire Jo Ratcliffe and one other woman (who had to remain anonymous for mysterious reasons). The bag would be theirs for a week, to use as they wish and at the end of those seven days, they would pass it along to whom they saw fit. Each of the four bags passed through the hands of eight people, and the experiment lasted eight weeks: hence the name. “It was good to let them free after a year of keeping them so close to my heart. Putting them into the world and being like, here it goes.” The feedback from each host was invaluable and held advice he would never had been able to attain otherwise. The best advice he received? “Well the best thing was that it jumped the gender divide at one point, which I was completely not expecting. The largest [bag], went to Mr J Ashton from Dover Street market, who carried it off in style.”
With The Core Collection of just five handbags (and The Carta Collection of five wallets), it’s obvious we’re looking at the work of a perfectionist. Each with it’s own apt name, Splitwedge, Flatiron, Kettlebell, Nightjar, Inkwell; the bags are expertly crafted from vegetable tanned Italian leather, hand-stitched and taking over a week to create just one. And then there’s the discreetpersonalisation. Each piece is custom ordered, numbered and it’s owners-to-be name is written on a little vellum note, hidden in the bags lining. Every way in which to make them special, Tallowin has it covered.
Recently setting up shop in London’s Fitzrovia, with an oak work-desk by the window, the space perfectly reflects his craftsmanship: Blank walls – except for the handbags – and a beautiful wooden storage cabinet in the center. “I never expected to be a shopkeeper – it’s quite strange, but it feels good.” What you will notice, when walking into 4 Windmill Street is the bold print on the wall. This silk screen is the first in Tallowin’s Edition Project and is a design for a flag, conceived of by George Selwyn-Brace. At the turn of each solstice and equinox a new limited edition print, designed by a different collaborator will be released. This illuminates the fact that this designer works to a different sort of season; autumn/winter and spring/summer just won’t cut it here. “I’m torn between the fashion and the craft,” states Mark. “Perhaps I’m too crafty for fashion and too close to fashion for craft.” He prefers to be a pure craftsman that doesn’t enter into that specific fashion discourse.
When asking about the women who have bought the bags, Mark states: “It tends to be women who buy for themselves, which I think is a good sign… It feels like there’s a good strong sense of independence and purposefulness.” With that, we may have the next iconic, ‘power woman’ bag collection on our hands. But of course, this club is for those who want something a little more unique.
Tallowin is located at 4 Windmill Street, Fitzrovia, London W1T 2HZ
For spring/summer 2015 Converse has teamed up with the Japanese fashion house founded by legendary designer, Rei Kawakubo, for the fourth time to release the Converse Chuck Taylor All Star ‘70 PLAY COMME des GARÇONS sneaker collection.
This collaboration sees them create an exclusive four pair range of the premium All Star Chuck 70 sneakers in high-top and ox silhouettes. They feature heavy grade black and milk canvas uppers, a smaller toe box and higher midsole finished in solid white, reinforced contrast canvas heel strips, nickel hardware, thick cotton laces and a cushioned sockliner for added comfort. And of course the design is finished with the signature red heart logo created by New York-based graphic artist, Filip Pagowski.
The collection is available exclusively at Dover Street Market stores in both London and New York, COMME des GARÇONS New York and online at doverstreetmarket.com.
Dior has released the fourth edition of their Secret Garden saga, a series of films with different directors, models and moods, all located at Château de Versailles. This short features the new face of Dior as its star, Rhianna.
Steven Klein takes us to Versailles at night, where Rihanna wonders through the grand rooms and gardens of the French palace, clothed in the Esprit Dior collection.
“Rihanna’s mystery and intrigue combined with her razor sharp looks and sensibility, are the essential; perfect elements to create the stage for Secret Garden,” states Steven Klein.
The House of St Barnabas’ 11th talk in their on-going public series, 37 Things You Need To Know About Modern Britain curated in partnership with cultural consultancy BUG, explores the pros and cons of the occasionally controversial colour pink.
Hosted by Ekow Eshun and featuring panellists such as the editor of Glamour magazine Jo Elvin, journalist and broadcaster Miranda Sawyer and fashion editor of the Independent, Alexander Fury, the talk will discuss everything from the bad press the colour receives to how it can embolden women. The way in which it is perceived as being sexist and patronising will also be debated.
Other areas of focus: Is it OK to appeal to “girliness” if you’re doing it to boost women’s power and confidence? If a “pink” campaign got more women into science, would that be OK? Is there really a problem with pink? Or with our attitudes to pink? Should we keep our rose-tinted specs on, or chuck them in the Patriarchy Dumper? If you have also thought about these questions, then you should probably get yourself a ticket here.
What’s the problem with pink? The House of Saint Barnabas, Thursday 21 May, Doors 6.30pm, Talk 7.30pm
Prada has teamed up with their favourite director Wes Anderson again. This time, instead of directing shorts for their campaigns, Anderson has lent his unique vision to create a bar. Located in Milan, Bar Luce, which features a Life Aquatic-themed pinball machine, a jukebox and retro formica tables, is part of Prada’s new art and culture complex Fondazione Prada and was inspired by two Italian Neorealist films – Miracle in Milan (1951) and Rocco and His Brothers (1960).
“I think it would be an even better place to write a movie,” states Anderson. “I tried to make it a bar I would want to spend my own non-fictional afternoons in.”
Fondazione Prada and the Luce Bar is open now at Largo Isarco 2, 20139 Milano.
Summer holidays await us; the time to start thinking about beach attire is now. And this season, the one-piece has made a comeback. No need to bare all, just enough to get some sun. You’ll want something that will look good while you swim in the ocean, just as much as it will drinking cocktails poolside.
Looking to swimwear brands we trust for design and quality, we pick the top four of the season.
Lisa Maria Fernandez Farrah Maillot Bonded Swimsuit, £303, matchesfashion.com & Prism Forte Dei Marmi in charcoal, £190, prismlondon.com
A new exhibition opens in New York today that looks at how clothing addresses identity. The six New York City women involved, who’s outfits will be on display, have experienced some sort of sexual assault in their lives. Artist Laura Jane Kenny looks at this sensitive subject and causes us to think of life after assault.
Viewers will be able to observe the diversity of each survivor’s approach to sharing their identity and personal style while eschewing vulnerability.
She Was Asking For It opens today at The Loft, Judson Memorial Church, 55 Washington Square South, New York, NY 10012.
& Other Stories, together with Vans, have created a collection of leather flats that combine the iconic Slip-On and Old Skool classic Vans with a customised & Other Stories twist. The three styles encompass the aesthetic values of both brands, creating something both contemporary yet timeless.
“We’ve interpreted Vans’ heritage sneakers in an & Other Stories way,” states & Other Stories shoe designer Nicole Wilson. “Bringing refinement and feminine edge to Vans’ street style legacy.”
To celebrate the co-lab, & Other Stories called upon models Daphne Selfe and Flo Dron to artfully showcase these new sneakers.
Lianne La Havas’s soulful tone was the soundtrack to 2012. The half Jamaican, half Greek singer/songwriter is back with news of a sophmore album, Blood, and its lead single. Her debut LP, Is Your Love Big Enough?, earned her a numerous awards (a Mercury Prize nomination being one), and caught the attention of fans Stevie Wonder and Prince.
La Havas’s latest, Unstoppable is a sweet song, with a dream-like sensitivity. Like previous tracks by this young artist, her voice and rhythmic guitar captivates; her lyrics, romantic. We can’t wait to hear more.
Martin Margiela may be the most elusive figure in fashion. Never has he given an interview, or been photographed in regards to his designs, however now he is the subject of the YOOX Group’s first documentary.
The Artist is Absent, directed by American writer and director Alison Chernick, reveals the vast, groundbreaking impact of the Belgian creative genius who changed the way in which fashion is seen and the enigmatic mind behind some of the most exquisite creations of the two last decades.
This intriguing narrative tries to unveil the true essence of Martin Margiela’s deconstructivist revolution. He becomes real through the images of the documentary, frames of his creative path, and interviews with some of fashion’s greatest names who have been part of his incredible life, including Raf Simons, Jean-Paul Gaultier and Suzy Menkes.
Young Canadian photographer and Twin contributor Petra Collins is known for her girl power images that prove feminism and sexuality aren’t mutually exclusive. In a new book, Babe, Collins, as well as 30 artists who have been part of her online collective The Ardorous, explore the female identity through aesthetically varied bodies of work.
Collins’s friend and collaborator, Tavi Gevinson, well-known for her online magazine Rookie, introduces Babe with a foreword that explains just how pivotal Collins’ work has been, not just to Gevinson, but to young woman around the world.
This inspiring collection of work, from artists hailing from New York, London, Moscow, Stockholm, Los Angeles, Berlin and Toronto, reflects a distinctly female point of view for a new generation of creative, forward-thinking women.
Twin contributors and Pamflet founders, Phoebe Frangoul and Anna-Marie Fitzgerald, are about to launch the thirteenth issue of their post-everything, satirical girl culture zine. It’s been four years since a printed edition has been released, but their back with 40+ pages of pure London grrrl culture.
To celebrate Phoebe and Anna-Marie will be at The Trouble Club on Monday 27th April, where there will be free-flowing wine, music and zines for all.
Get tickets to the launch of Pamflet 13: Absent in the Spring here.
Chloë Sevigny has been at the forefront of cool since the nineties; modelling for Sassy, appearing in a Sonic Youth music video and starring in the independent and controversial film Kids (1995). It was her eclectic and avant-garde fashion sense that caught the attention of many, and now it has been chronicled in a new book.
Published by Rizzoli and with a forward by Kim Gordon, the personal photography tome journeys through her style evolution. In addition to childhood images, film stills and imagery from magazine editorials, the volume also features pictures of Sevigny’s most prized memorabilia.
Chloë Sevigny is out now and available to buy here.
Image: Chloë Sevigny by Kenneth Cappello for TWIN IV
Stockholm based fragrance brand BYREDO has launched a new collection of hair perfume exclusively at London’s Selfridges.
Utilising a unique silicone and polymer formula, the new products create a light, invisible veil that leave the hair nourished and luminous whilst scented with one of BYREDO’s signature scents Gypsy Water, Bal d’Afrique and Blanche. “People are more experimental today, applying fragrances in various forms.” states Ben Gorham, BYREDO’s Founder. “At BYREDO, our focus has been very much on the smells, we now want to focus on innovative ways to apply perfume.”
These long lasting scents will be showcased at the Selfridges Pop-Up until April 22nd. Although the collection will still be available at the department store after this date, we recommend taking a trip today or tomorrow to see the stunning display and test these new creations for yourself.
It’s officially time to dust off those shades. Or, purchase some shiny new ones. When choosing the right frames, timelessness is key as trend-led styles will bore you over time. You may be partial to a tortoiseshell pair, but here at Twin we like to keep things a bit more classic.
Our top four sunglasses are synonymous with effortless style; their shapes will stand the test of time, but are much more than your standard wayfarer. Their design is durable, hard-wearing and feels luxurious when worn. It’s time to take your pick…
Florence Welch and her machine are back in a big way. While performing at Coachella over the weekend, the British musician revealed the video to her latest track Ship To Wreck to the festival crowd. And now it’s available for all to see.
“I was thinking about my own self destructive side,” states Welch. “And how you can make something only to tear it down, enjoy/destroy, create/devastate etc. When you’re in that whirlwind, you often end up breaking the thing you love the most.” In the video, shot in partnership with director Vincent Haycock and choreographed by Ryan Heffington, we find the enigmatic singer in her own home, causing quite the stir.
The track is taken off the upcoming album How Big How Blue How Beautiful, produced by Markus Dravs (Björk, Arcade Fire, Coldplay) and with contributions from Paul Epworth, Kid Harpoon and John Hill.
No political system has given us as many wonders as capitalism. However, by promoting inequality and encouraging irresponsible risk-taking, capitalism has created deep and violent fissures in the fabric of society. Despite all this, we’re lost for any brighter ideas.
As one of the world’s most in-demand supermodels and face of some of the best-known brands, Lily Cole has seen how markets rarely value what matters to us. Having recently created a social media platform, impossible.com, where people donate and share their own time, Lily imagines a world where a gift economy is an ever-present possibility.
Now, in conversation with philosopher and School of Life founder Alain de Botton, she reveals how a gift economy in which real human needs and desires are met – and not simply the demands of the marketplace – might just be achievable after all.
Lily Cole in Conversation with Alain de Botton takes place on April 23rd at 7pm. Twin readers will receive 20% off with the promotional code IMPOSSIBLE. Get your ticket here.
Italian sneaker brand Superga, known for its collaborations with Rita Ora, Alexa Chung and Suki Waterhouse, recently announced that the latest high profile person to front their campaign and design a collection is top model Binx Walton.
The 19-year-old has created a limited-edition range of trainers that are said to hit stores in the Autumn/Winter 2015 drop, however, these first look images have been released.
“I have always wanted to explore other aspects of the industry,” states Walton. “And I’m so lucky to have such an amazing brand supporting me on not just the model side, but also the creative, directing, and designing. Which is such a dream come true for me!”
Four of Prada’s iconic boutiques have exclusively launched the Spring/Summer 2015 Prada Raw Eyewear Collection. Utilising new materials such as black walnut and Malabar ebony, they have combined these two precious types of wood with their contemporary design to create a unique new range.
The stores, Milan Galleria, Paris Faubourg St Honore, London Old Bond Street and New York 5th Avenue, now feature a customised window display, created by Martino Gamper in collaboration with Prada, to celebrate their unique craftmanship.
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