This spring, Issue 16 is a study in shedding the weighty debris of expectation, and forging your own identity, under whatever guise that may take. From the renunciation of labels with model Lulu Bonfils, to redefining femininity with the creators behind MoreMuhler, and reclaiming pink with musician GIRLI, we celebrate womanhood without limits. Similarly, we discover how family is at the core of the work done by 90-year-old artist Betye Saar, and those sentiments are echoed by fashion designer Molly Goddard, who we shadowed for a day. Elsewhere, Chanel’s hyper real version of beauty is played with, and Louis Vuitton’s artistic vision for SS17 is realised. Photographer Dexter Navy experiments with the perception of future super Jean Campbell, and posing greats Erin O’Connor and Guinevere Van Seenus make the lens their own again. Twin also delves into the world of all-girl skate culture and friendship, while director Crystal Moselle and BFF Danielle Levitt discuss the red-hot power of teenagers with passion. It’s a riot.
Drawing on their longstanding tradition of creating travel objects, Louis Vuitton have invited designers to reimagine furniture through the lens of journey and adventure for this year’s Objets Nomades collection.
Launched in 2012, the collection coincides with the start of Milan Design Week and this year sees the addition of two more renowned designers to the rostra, India Mahdavi and Tokujin Yoshioka. Other designers include Campana Brothers, Marcel Wanders, Atelier Oï and Patricia Urquiola. Each has contributed a piece, or pieces, inspired by iconic items from Louis Vuitton’s heritage collection such as the Bed Trunk of 1874, produced for French explorer Pierre Savorgnan.
Contemporary objects in the collection range from supple rocking chairs by Marcel Wanders, to India Mahdavi’s side table, inspired by Middle Eastern nomadic hospitality to a lamp that holds light in a way reminiscent of how a Louis Vuitton bag contains a traveller’s belongings. Other highlights include Tokujin Yoshioka’s Monogram-pattern flower stool, Atelier Oï’s vintage swing chair and Marcel Wanders’ leather screen that references the House’s classic Monogram pattern.
The collection comes alongside the launch of Louis Vuitton’s ‘Spirit of Travel’ campaign for 2017, which sees Michelle Williams captured by Patrick Demarchelier. In fusing modern day design with a the brand’s rich travel heritage Louis Vuitton beautifully provides a segue between innovation and history, adventure and style.
Those looking for a December boost should head over to Selfridges to check out the latest Louis Vuitton Menswear Pop-up at the iconic London department store, Selfridges.
The new pop-up has been illustrated by The Chapman Brothers, who were commissioned by Men’s Style Director Kim Jones to create a space inspired by his time in Africa. Expect to see giraffes looming large over the collection, while rhinos and jaguars roam wild across the wallpaper.
Launching in two waves, the visually impressive space plays host to a denim bar as well as an exciting array of exclusive products across ready-to-wear, accessories, shoes and leather goods. The Pre- SS17 collection is available in store now, and will be followed by the SS17 show preview from the 15th December.
For the first time, the maison of Louis Vuitton has unveiled a series of seven fragrances, created by master perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud. The accompanying campaign, shot by Patrick Demarchelier, features the sultry gaze of Palm d’Or-winning actress Léa Seydoux.
Of the range of scents in the premier collection – ‘Rose des Vents’, ‘Turbulences’, ‘Dans la Peau’, ‘Apogée’, ‘Contre Moi’, ‘Matière Noire’ and ‘Mille Feux’ – a full journey of emotions, from dark to light and self-revelation is the aim.
In keeping with the brand’s history of, and with, travel – Demarchelier and Seydoux journeyed to South Africa to shoot the coinciding ads, and wanted the wet-haired nonchalance of adventure to add to the purity of the actress’s natural beauty, mirroring the simple ethos of the perfumes themselves.
“Louis Vuitton is about travel, but it’s also about dreams. Its spirit blends adventure, discovery and emotion. I am very honoured to embody this universe.” – Léa Seydoux
It’s mere days until Rio de Janeiro becomes the focus of the world’s gaze, as the 2016 Olympic Games get under way. But all this talk of athletic prowess in a stunning setting has made us yearn for the Louis Vuitton Cruise ’17 collection, which took place in the famed city a few months ago.
While we were enraptured then, the prospect of last-minute August escapes has thrown us headfirst into a search for things to wear, and we’re coming up lacking, as all we really want are these creations from Nicolas Ghesquière. The industry favourite, who has always managed to put his finger on exactly ‘what women want’ has done it again – bien sur. “I think what defines our time is that women want to look sophisticated and they want casual sports clothes,” he said. “Those are the two big obsessions.”
For those who missed it in May, here are just a few of the reasons why we’re churlishly wishing this summer away, so that we can get our hands on this collection in time for December.
Culture and Ghesquière have always gone hand-in-hand, and this show was no exception. Held at the Oscar Niemeyer–designed Niterói Contemporary Art Museum, artists also both partook, and inspired, the collection itself with the likes of Hélio Oiticica and Aldemir Martins on the credit sheet.
Model-of-the-moment Mica Arganaraz opened the show, while Twin favourites like Heather Kemesky (who features on one of the covers of our latest issue) also walked.
Thought the ubiquitous flip-flop was reserved yuppies in Clapham? Think again. They are now officially desirable, thanks to Ghesquière sending heavily cuffed versions down the catwalk.
US racing insignia, scuba-esque fabrics and chequered flag motifs were prevalent throughout the collection, adding to the sporting feel of the brand for this time of year.
Remember those skinny lurex scarves you used to love so much? Well, great news for hoarders: they’re back, albeit smattered with sequins amping up their luxe feel. Less good news for Marie Kondo advocates, you’ll have to repeat buy.
Spanning the realms of music, art, film, literature and fashion – Issue 14 is an exploration of the female perspective: From Alexa Chung’s personal musings on the pull and perversity of astrology, to director Elizabeth Wood’s controversial position of power within new Hollywood. We also see girl-of-the-moment Heather Kemesky shot by Maciek Kobielski while swathed in every day detritus, meet actress on the rise Anya Taylor-Joy, discover Louis Vuitton’s cosmic universe through the lens of Juergen Teller and dismantle ‘black sheep feminism’ with the work of artists Betty Tompkins, Joan Semmel, Anita Steckel, and Cosey Fanni Tutti. Ben Rayner also photographs some of the most exciting musicians to be following right now.
Clym Evernden is an award winning artist, one that Twin met when he captured the attendees at our latest release party (read the interview). Here, the Central Saint Martins graduate and Colin Barnes Illustration Award winner turns his attention to the menswear SS15 season, illustrating the shows in his signature inky style of drawing.
Astralis is the 23rd exhibition to be held at Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton in Paris. The exhibit claims to “take visitors on a journey into this strange reality by exploring unfathomable and inaccessible worlds.” Taking it’s name from ‘Astral’, another term for ‘invisible,’ this contemporary exhibition explores the relationship between art and the many forms of the invisible: from astrophysics to cognitive science and alternative knowledge, not to mention unexplained phenomena linked to a variety of visionary or metaphysical dimensions.
Including work from a dozen international artists, l’Espace Culturel Louis Vuitton is also organising a series of unique events to run alongside Astralis. Conversations and performances, youth workshops and weekend family activities are all ways to get involved with the exhibit. Running from now until May 11th, there’s more than enough time to get lost in space.
On Friday November 8, Louis Vuitton will open its doors to the Townhouse, a new urban retail destination set within Selfridges. Louis Vuitton invites clients to journey through a new retail concept and signature interior, into a dialogue between modernity and tradition, surprise and discovery.
Built over three inter-connecting floors, the Townhouse is the largest of its kind in Europe, offering two floors for womenswear and, for the first time in Selfridges, Kim Jones’ menswear line.
In the middle of it all one will find the real showstopper; a state-of-the-art glass lift that links all three spaces. The short travel in the elevator then reveals a head turning surprise, as it begins to gently revolve, in tandem with the movement of the spiral.
The architectural concept is designed by French-born, Japanese based designer, Gwenaël Nicolas.
Every journey in Louis Vuitton’s Townhouse, regardless of how short, is definitely inspirational.
The Townhouse opens on November 8 in Selfridges, Oxford Street, London, W1.
Quentin Jones is a London-based illustrator, a Cambridge philosophy graduate and one of fashion’s brightest young filmmakers, specializing in a cartoonish style of surreal photo-montaged animation.
In connection to Fashion Week earlier this month, Louis Vuitton released a new accessories film, directed by Quentin. Through her signature aesthetic, illustrative bold lines and pop colours brings the rings, sunglasses and belts to life. The film is styled by Fashion Editor Agata Belcen.
For most people, the Louis Vuitton brand name immediately conjures up images of those infamous, and often copied, interlocking L and V letters. But in fact, its little logo sister, the Damier canvas, celebrates a proud 125 years of iconography this year.
The first ever patented invention by the house of Vuitton, this discretely brown and beige checkered design has literally proven to stand
Since then, it has undergone several colour palette changes, but nonetheless is a universally recognisable trademark of the French design house. For this anniversary, the Damier has been given a neon-hued and athletically shaped makeover. Further proof that a luxurious classic never goes out of style.
In Part I, we covered what the one and only C trio (Chanel, Christian Dior, Comme Des Garcons) churned out, but from Haider Ackermann’s dreamy midnight-coloured collection to Marc Jacob’s retro mania, Paris Fashion Week still had a wide array of other intriguing collections to take in. Read on for Twin’s final list of favourites this S/S 13 season…
Considering the fact that she has collaborated with the likes of Adidas, no one does sporty quite like Stella. Energetic bursts of neon orange peaked out underneath a sheer silk sweatshirt whilst black and white printed strapless jumpsuits and oversized shirt-dresses were given an easygoing slouch thanks to a dropped waistline, all topped off with surprisingly wearable Lucite platforms. McCartney described the collection as “a conversation between a man and a woman” and thanks to the relaxed and loose-fitting silhouettes, there was something there for the elegant tomboy in every one of us.
This S/S 13 season, man of the moment Haider Ackermann gave us something to dream about. Sheer silk and lace were wrapped around the body with the designer’s trademark fluid draping, in nighttime sky colours of ivory, midnight blue, black and a shimmering dark grey. A first was the use of geometric prints and polka dots, but even these rather atypical elements were melded into the harmonious collection. It’s safe to say that there are countless more breathtakingly beautiful collections like this one to come on Ackermann’s horizon.
After an eighties, sci-fi flashback, this season saw a more formal Balenciaga woman come to the forefront. Nicolas Ghesquière may have constrained his colour palette to mostly black, white, nude, and charcoal colours but thanks to ruffled thigh-high cuts and plenty of upper midriff exposure, the sex appeal was as much there as ever. From the first pair of front-pleated, high waisted trousers to the last coated guipure lace dress, it was a testament to the fact that even without the futuristic drama, Ghesquière is more than capable of getting, and keeping, our attention.
Marc Jacobs has become the designer of Paris you can count on for a complete fashion 180, and this season was no exception. In an ode to Diane Arbus, Marc Jacobs sent his Sixties styled models in pairs of two down the escalator and runway, matched up in Vuitton’s signature damier print. The silhouettes were streamlined, the hemlines decade-appropriately short and the fit body skimming. The main inspiration of the collection may have been from another era, but Jacobs managed to successfully reincarnate the look for 2013.
For their ready-to-wear A/W 2012 show, Louis Vuitton brought Belle Époque glamour to the catwalk. As models descended the Louis Vuitton Express they evoked the golden age of the steam train when luggage was an affair to remember. Flash forward a few months and leaping into the present day, the luxury brand asked Todd Selby to take a journey across continents in 12 days, starting in Paris and finishing in Shanghai, with his trusty monogramed LV holdall in tow.
Keeping busy with his sketch pad and camera, he created a visual diary of his trip. Twin spoke to video producer Laura Holmes who went along with him for the ride…
How did you become involved in the Art of Travel project?
Katie Grand introduced me to Faye Mcleod, head of visual at Louis Vuitton to produce the project.
What was the experience like?
Incredible, a once in a lifetime opportunity. From the train window we saw Central Berlin, rural Poland, suburban Belarus, Russian countryside, soldiers in Siberia, camels in the Gobi Desert and the Great Wall of China. We slept and ate three meals a day on the train filming from sunrise until sunset.
What does Louis Vuitton represent to you?
What did you enjoy about working with Todd?
His train work-out.
What are you working on next?
A film for New York fashion brand Maiyet shooting in Kenya with feature film director Cary Fukunaga.
At first glance, Yayoi Kusama and the house of Louis Vuitton may not seem like the most harmonious couple. One is an eccentric artist known for her psychedelic installations, the other is a luxurious and world-renowned label under the multi-billion pound LVMH helm. However, just like in one of the Japanes artist’s polka dot paintings, there is more than meets the eye.
Both Kusama and Vuitton embody the idea of plunging oneself headfirst into an artistic vision. As much as the flame red-haired Kusama is an artwork in her own right, the house of Louis Vuitton, under the guidance of Marc Jacobs, has made train journey and carousel ride runway shows a continuously extraordinary event of the Ready To Wear season, year in, year out.
This month sees the release of the duo’s range of clothing, accessories and footwear, all covered in Kusama’s signature polka dot prints, coinciding with the opening of the artist’s exhibition at the Whitney Museum of American Art. On August 24, Kusama’s designs for the house will also take over London department store Selfridges with a 24-window display showcasing the new collection, as well as the transformation of the Concept Store inside, thanks to the artist’s signature giant pumpkins. The idea of fashion being art may seem like a tired cliche, but Yayoi Kusama and Louis Vuitton prove there is still a lot of exciting invigoration to bring to the table.
“Necessity is the mother of all invention” So goes the saying, and so it was that in 1858, trunk packer Louis Vuitton innovated a stackable luggage trunk to ease transportation of the prodigious wardrobes of travelling madamset mademoiselles. In doing so, the wheels were set in motion for a brand now estimated to be worth over $19 billion.
Those wheels are turning faster than ever over a century later, under the skilled tutorship of Marc Jacobs. The brand and its designer, whose signature sense of irreverence and fun has seen models arrive on the catwalk via a full-size carousel and most recently, a moving locomotive engine – complete with steam – are now the subject of a new exhibition: Louis Vuitton – Marc Jacobs.
Two floors of the Louvre’s Musee des Arts Decoratifs, have been dedicated to exhibiting the French luggage icon and its Artistic Director since 2007. “Marc always starts with the bag”, says curator Pamela Golbin of Jacobs’ approach to each collection, and all 53 bags he has designed for LV are among the exhibits – which include those original
trunks – displayed in a larger-than-life “chocolate box”.
His exceptional brand vision is behind such successful collaborations as those with artists Stephen Sprouse in 2001 and Takashi Murakami in 2003 – the resulting bags creating waiting lists that took the idea of an ‘it’ bag to a whole new level.
If you find yourself in Paris between now and September and have more than a passing interest in art or fashion, don’t miss it.
Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs is at Musee des Arts Decoratifs until 16 september 2012. The official book of the exhibition by curator, Pamela Golbin, is published by Rizzoli in April.
As part of the Louis Vuitton Young Arts Project, the French fashion house has launched REcreative, an online community for the young, lean and art hungry. Careers advice for the digital age, it’s a gold mine of advice and an opportunity for creative minds to gain an insight into the lives of leading artists, curators and designers.
Interviews online already include Tracey Emin discussing her Hayward Gallery show, Love is What You Want and Dazed and Confused founder Jefferson Hack on how to establish your own magazine and voice. REcreative users can also upload their own work and have it seen by those at the top of their creative tree. Developed by Louis Vuitton in collaboration with London’s leading art institutions: the Hayward Gallery, the Royal Academy of Arts, the South London Gallery, Tate Britain and the Whitechapel Gallery, REcreative is set to put the wheels of a whole new generation on the right creative track. Spread the word.