Rihanna has branded herself as more than just a musician. Through the release of the brand “Fenty” she has stormed the beauty and fashion world, breaking down barrier after barrier. On the 2nd October 2020, she invited the world to the second instalment of her fast-paced, high-energy: Savage X Fenty lingerie showcase.
The hour-long show features unique pieces from the new line, stitched together with elaborate live performances. Each dance section transitions seamlessly into a catwalk, all choreographed by world-renowned dancer and choreographer: Parris Goebel.
“Inclusion” was the phrase of the show. The final section introduced the “Men’s Shop”, featuring a broad menswear’s selection, with sizes that go up to 3XXL.
“[Rihanna] kicked the door down. And she opened up the world to all these possibilities of makeup, fashion lingerie, all that being for every size, every shape. That’s some ballsy, powerful shit” – Yusef Williams.
The show pulls the audience in from start to finish, each shot adorned with enticing visuals. Pyrotechnics, a mechanical garden of flowers and a factory filled with conveyor belts, all add to the elaborate narrative. Behind the scene shots reveal Rihanna’s modus operandi and the genius behind her vision with her team. Rihanna’s process and the outcome of Savage X Fenty’s success is all a manifestation of things that inspired her.
“Inspiration can come from anything. What makes it unique is your own interpretation on that message, that colour scheme, that texture. And so everything that I do is going to be personal to me when it comes to Savage” – Rihanna.
Emotion, observation, and handwork all describe the process of two designers that have people talking. Early in the morning, far from the hustle bustle of Manhattan, I explored two Brooklyn studio-apartments and found creations buzzing and glowing with otherworldly charm. With their name on the line, Alice Waese and David Michael are creating pieces you want to live in and there is nothing basic about them.
The Toronto native Alice Waese moved to New York after studying at the International Academy of Art and Design in Toronto and working for Jeremy Laing. In NY, she became Maria Cornejo’s right hand for several years before later settling across the pond in London. She is now back in hasty NY — a change of pace that has helped develop the collection through mere conversation, an exchange that introduced the idea of expanding her brand to include knitwear. Her work, a combination of “processes, research and intuition”, has fueled her latest endeavor which includes her sense of accessory and design. “The jewelry is more objective then ever before, while there are still organic and abstract shapes, the focus of the collection for me was more on a direct narrative — carved skulls and bodies like voodoo and worry dolls. It is a more obvious and emotional collection, more direct. The knits are a combination of hand and machine knits, a lot of color and texture.”
Tell Me More :
“I start the day off with 7 toed cat paws in my face. Strong coffee and drawing or emailing.
My wardrobe consists mostly of antique white men’s shirts collected in London, lots of Zero Maria Cornejo, white Arts & Science night gown / silk dresses, black leather Guidi boots.
Everyday jewelry includes full hands of rings, my tall bark ring cast from tree bark, multiple double rings cast from leather, stacked raw black diamonds.
Current studio playlist sounds like Chances with Wolves Radio via East Village Radio and lots of Bill Callahan, always. Austra, Will Oldham, Jennifer Castle, Jessica Pratt, Dylan, Kendrick Lamar, Yo Yo Ma, Timbre Timber, Joanna Newsome.
David Michael Hershberger, the intelligent, laidback designer from California launched David Michael last fall. His immaculate understanding of garment construction has also lead him to tailoring gigs with the likes of Dior, Chloe, Alexander Wang, and John Varvatos. His fresh women’s collection has a “neo-romantic” energy reminiscent of his earlier line Endovanera (co-founded in LA circa 2007). This time around the pieces are truly made to grace a female figure. “New Jack City” was this season’s inspiration, a 1991 American crime film that took place in New York City. “Everything is made in Manhattan, so I can be close to the process.”
Tell Me More :
“I start the day off with E 3 Live, playing music and the hope to get out at some point during daylight.
My wardrobe consists mostly of pleated trousers I get when I go back to LA. And trench coats so that I have the creep vibe going on.
Everyday jewelry includes my gold teeth.
Current studio playlist sounds like Frank Zappa’s Muffin Man — thanks Clay Webster for all the heavy cruisin’ jams. Jeffertities Nile, Baby Vampire Cape, Ariel Pink, Greatest Hits, Zak Mering, Raw Thrills.
Home is cruisin’. Just got a car, now I can explore the east coast.”
For Fall 2012 at New York Fashion Week, Jil Sander’s more affordable little sister Jil Sander Navy presented a collection of modern brilliance.
While having elements of the sporty couture look that has been present at Jil Sander for the past three seasons, mixed in were more smartly tailored pieces; shirtdresses, wool overcoats and contrast collar shirts in a palette of salmon pink, tomato red and lashings of navy blue.
Accessories provided the quirks that differentiated this from the haute minimalism of the Jil Sander mainline and gave the collection a more everyday wear feel. Chunky platform shoes, luxe leather backpacks, grosgrain bow belts and Alice bands created a look that was prim Princess on a school day. Emminently wearable, elegant and feminine, but of course in the Jil Sander way.
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