It’s time for a bed-in: barely-there slips in gingham, star and bouquet prints call for a lackadaisical style stance that’s best shown off in bed. Photographer Nick Dorey’s shoot featuring Vanessa Axente, filmed by Natalie Spitzer.
Twin Issue XII
21.05.2015 | Blog , Fashion , Twin Book , Twin Life | BY: admin
Twin’s 12th edition is all about attitude. Edie Campbell talks to fellow model Saskia de Brauw about finding friendship and surviving the fashion game. Photographer Liz Collins explores the new rules of beauty (the good news is, there are none). Skinny Girl Diet, the London band with big ideas and a brilliantly bad attitude, let out a rebel yell. We get up close with talented multi-hyphenate Miranda July as she shares her singular views on middle age and motherhood. Then step inside the Milan studio of Nathalie du Pasquier, the French-born painter of Memphis fame, who extols the freedom of later life. Then another inspirational image-maker, Roberta Bayley, recalls Manhattan’s Seventies punk scene—the perfect accompaniment to 74 pages of scintillating summer fashion.
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21.05.2015 | Blog , Film , Twin Life , Twin Video | BY: admin
Filmaker Shimmy Amed goes behind the scenes on Matteo Montanari’s dreamy 70’s fashion shoot in this short film.
Twin talks feminism: Mad Max
21.05.2015 | Film | BY: Lydia Winter
A post-apocalyptic action movie would not usually warrant a mention on Twin, but it specifically caught our eye for a post on feminism in Hollywood.
Men’s rights commentators from website Return of The King called on right-minded males to boycott the movie because of the feisty Furiosa, played by a smoking hot Charlize Theron. His main complaints were that Theron ‘spoke a lot’ during the trailers and ‘barked orders to Tom Hardy’s Mad Max…when nobody barks orders to Mad Max.’ Theron, in true kick-ass fashion, responded by calling on film-makers to “stop misrepresenting women.”
This has resulted in a social media storm, with both naysayers and supporters taking to various platforms to share their thoughts. The most recurrent opinion is that the film is excellent – so perhaps we’ll put aside our stilettos to make a trip to the cinema in the near future.
This is just the latest in a series of outcries against sexism in film, with Kristin Stewart also commenting on gender bias this week. Charlize Theron, in fact, recently made headlines by negotiating a deal to get the same £6.5m salary as her co-star Chris Hemsworth in the Snow White and the Huntsman sequel, firmly cementing her as a Twin grrl and feminist icon.
While these are certainly shocking revelations about La-La Land, it seems that our favourite starlets have the matter well in hand.
For more feminism, along with our usual fashion, beauty and culture, and to stay in the know with all the goings-on at Twin, sign up to our new newsletter here.
So Clean, So Fresh
20.05.2015 | Beauty | BY: admin
Twin’s latest edition explores beauty’s new easy, breezy mood. So Fresh, So Clean sees photographer Liz Collins capture a whirlwind series of aesthetic incarnations, created together with make-up artist Niamh Quinn, exclusively using CHANEL. The message here is clear: One look no longer fits all. Whether you play with bold colour, bravely go bare faced or opt for an all-over glow, nothing says modern beauty like being true to yourself. Take a look, here.
Mark Tallowin – The Core Collection
20.05.2015 | Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
Mark Tallowin’s journey to becoming a designer of luxury leather goods is far from ordinary. Living in the desert of west Texas, one day he found himself fashioning a knife from a chunk of railway track. Of course all good knifes need a hand-stitched leather sheath, and from there a love affair began.
After locking himself away in what he described as “self imposed cave” for a year, studying, he collected his designs and boldly took them to one of the most respected ateliers. Tallowin understood that he needed to get as much advice from those in the know to really create something worthy of an industry one could describe as oversaturated.
To make sure every inch of his creations are practical, just as much as they are beautiful, Tallowin conducted what he called his 4.4.8. Experiment. After designing and creating four prototypes, he handed over the handbags to Jess Cartner-Morley of The Guardian, Camilla Johnson-Hill of The Production Club, Illustrator Extraordinaire Jo Ratcliffe and one other woman (who had to remain anonymous for mysterious reasons). The bag would be theirs for a week, to use as they wish and at the end of those seven days, they would pass it along to whom they saw fit. Each of the four bags passed through the hands of eight people, and the experiment lasted eight weeks: hence the name. “It was good to let them free after a year of keeping them so close to my heart. Putting them into the world and being like, here it goes.” The feedback from each host was invaluable and held advice he would never had been able to attain otherwise. The best advice he received? “Well the best thing was that it jumped the gender divide at one point, which I was completely not expecting. The largest [bag], went to Mr J Ashton from Dover Street market, who carried it off in style.”
With The Core Collection of just five handbags (and The Carta Collection of five wallets), it’s obvious we’re looking at the work of a perfectionist. Each with it’s own apt name, Splitwedge, Flatiron, Kettlebell, Nightjar, Inkwell; the bags are expertly crafted from vegetable tanned Italian leather, hand-stitched and taking over a week to create just one. And then there’s the discreet personalisation. Each piece is custom ordered, numbered and it’s owners-to-be name is written on a little vellum note, hidden in the bags lining. Every way in which to make them special, Tallowin has it covered.
Recently setting up shop in London’s Fitzrovia, with an oak work-desk by the window, the space perfectly reflects his craftsmanship: Blank walls – except for the handbags – and a beautiful wooden storage cabinet in the center. “I never expected to be a shopkeeper – it’s quite strange, but it feels good.” What you will notice, when walking into 4 Windmill Street is the bold print on the wall. This silk screen is the first in Tallowin’s Edition Project and is a design for a flag, conceived of by George Selwyn-Brace. At the turn of each solstice and equinox a new limited edition print, designed by a different collaborator will be released. This illuminates the fact that this designer works to a different sort of season; autumn/winter and spring/summer just won’t cut it here. “I’m torn between the fashion and the craft,” states Mark. “Perhaps I’m too crafty for fashion and too close to fashion for craft.” He prefers to be a pure craftsman that doesn’t enter into that specific fashion discourse.
When asking about the women who have bought the bags, Mark states: “It tends to be women who buy for themselves, which I think is a good sign… It feels like there’s a good strong sense of independence and purposefulness.” With that, we may have the next iconic, ‘power woman’ bag collection on our hands. But of course, this club is for those who want something a little more unique.
Tallowin is located at 4 Windmill Street, Fitzrovia, London W1T 2HZ
Photography: Joe Quigg
Converse x COMME des GARÇONS
19.05.2015 | Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
For spring/summer 2015 Converse has teamed up with the Japanese fashion house founded by legendary designer, Rei Kawakubo, for the fourth time to release the Converse Chuck Taylor All Star ‘70 PLAY COMME des GARÇONS sneaker collection.
This collaboration sees them create an exclusive four pair range of the premium All Star Chuck 70 sneakers in high-top and ox silhouettes. They feature heavy grade black and milk canvas uppers, a smaller toe box and higher midsole finished in solid white, reinforced contrast canvas heel strips, nickel hardware, thick cotton laces and a cushioned sockliner for added comfort. And of course the design is finished with the signature red heart logo created by New York-based graphic artist, Filip Pagowski.
The collection is available exclusively at Dover Street Market stores in both London and New York, COMME des GARÇONS New York and online at doverstreetmarket.com.
Dior Secret Garden IV
18.05.2015 | Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
Dior has released the fourth edition of their Secret Garden saga, a series of films with different directors, models and moods, all located at Château de Versailles. This short features the new face of Dior as its star, Rhianna.
Steven Klein takes us to Versailles at night, where Rihanna wonders through the grand rooms and gardens of the French palace, clothed in the Esprit Dior collection.
“Rihanna’s mystery and intrigue combined with her razor sharp looks and sensibility, are the essential; perfect elements to create the stage for Secret Garden,” states Steven Klein.
Watch the film above.
What’s The Problem With Pink?
18.05.2015 | Culture , Thoughts | BY: Mariella Agapiou
The House of St Barnabas’ 11th talk in their on-going public series, 37 Things You Need To Know About Modern Britain curated in partnership with cultural consultancy BUG, explores the pros and cons of the occasionally controversial colour pink.
Hosted by Ekow Eshun and featuring panellists such as the editor of Glamour magazine Jo Elvin, journalist and broadcaster Miranda Sawyer and fashion editor of the Independent, Alexander Fury, the talk will discuss everything from the bad press the colour receives to how it can embolden women. The way in which it is perceived as being sexist and patronising will also be debated.
Other areas of focus: Is it OK to appeal to “girliness” if you’re doing it to boost women’s power and confidence? If a “pink” campaign got more women into science, would that be OK? Is there really a problem with pink? Or with our attitudes to pink? Should we keep our rose-tinted specs on, or chuck them in the Patriarchy Dumper? If you have also thought about these questions, then you should probably get yourself a ticket here.
What’s the problem with pink? The House of Saint Barnabas, Thursday 21 May, Doors 6.30pm, Talk 7.30pm
Image: In Bloom editorial from Twin VI. Valerija Kelava photographed by Jason Kibbler.
Fine and Dandy
16.05.2015 | Art , Culture , Fashion | BY: admin
Much has been said about the Teddy Boy subculture that emerged in 1950s Britain, defined by their unlikely sartorial combination of Edwardian dandy and American rock and roll. However, their female counterpart—the Teddy Girl—was all but forgotten until the recent discovery of a box of negatives from late filmmaker Ken Russell. His striking photo series, Last of the Teddy Girls, offers a rare glimpse into the lives, style and attitude of this retro girl gang—one of the first known female subcultures. Preceding feminism’s second wave, the Teddy Girl was a product of post-war Britain when young working class women took up more positions in the workforce, giving them a greater amount of disposable income than ever before. What money they earned went into their iconic looks—tailored jackets, rolled-up jeans, and flat shoes playfully paired with boater hats, brooches and clutch bags. Rejecting the social expectations for women of that era, Teddy Girls roamed in gangs; attending concerts and dances with boys in tow, and collecting rock and roll records and magazines.
Inspired by their rebellious spirit, photographer Boo George, stylist Caroline Newell and model Edie Campbell teamed up to create ‘Fine and Dandy’ for Twin issue 12—an ode to the swagger and style of original Teddy Girls.
Words by Alex LeRose
Twin issue 12 is out on 21 May.
The Best of the Venice Biennale 2015
15.05.2015 | Art | BY: Seana Gavin
I have just returned from the epic, visual indulgence of Venice. Dreamlike, romantic, surreal, sybaritic – the city was as inspiring as the art on display. These are some of the best things I was lucky enough to view.
Camille Norment, Rapture, Nordic Pavilion
Norway made a noticeable impression this year. The artist made it look as if the windows of the cubistic pavilion had exploded and caved on itself. In Norment’s sculptural and sonic installation the pavilion becomes a body. (The Norway party was also very memorable with vodka tonic garnished with samphire served on a boat shaped bar and an improvised sound performance by Tori Wranes).
John Akomfrah Vertigo Sea Giardini central pavilion
Akomfrah is a British-Ghanaian artist and filmmaker. He created a three screen video piece with well-edited images relating to the environment, whaling and our relationship to the sea. It was like watching a moving National Geographic with breath-taking visuals of nature and its beauty, combined with conflicting images of gory whaling, which filled you with sadness.
Future Histories, Casa Dei Tre Oci, Guidecca
This off site show featured two artists – Mark Dion and Arseny Zhilyaev. Influenced by museum practise of collection and display, these two artists created an imaginary future museum. Dion produced cabinets of curiosity and specimens while Zhilyaev made fake futuristic pieces and a room filled with Japanese maneki-nekos.
Katharina Grosse Untitled Trumpet, Arsenale
In Grosse’s installation in the Arsenale, she filled a room with plaster, fabric, Styrofoam, rubble and different surfaces painted in a kaleidoscope of colours. It felt as if you are stepping through a physical, three-dimensional abstract painting.
Doug Fishbone’s Leisureland Mini Golf
This was a fully playable mini golf course where nine artists were commissioned to design a hole inspired by ‘leisure’. This was a seriously fun, interactive piece and a pleasant break from looking at conventional art. Holes included Yinka Shonibare MBE’s nuclear cloud made from African patterned footballs.
Adrien Ghenie, Romanian Pavilion, Giardini
This was one of the few pavilions that showed a straightforward painting exhibition, which was refreshing. ‘Darwin’s Room’ contained thickly applied layered portraits with smudged faces and landscapes themed around past and future histories – from Hitler to a Self Portrait as Van Gogh.
Proportio, Palazzo Fortuny
The Palazzo Fortuny was one of my favourites from the last Biennale and this year did not disappoint. Curated by Axel Vervoordt and Daniella Ferretti, the exhibition explores proportions in art, music, science and architecture. Reflecting on ideas of order and chaos, I loved the juxtaposition of contemporary and old paintings mixed with sculpture and artefacts.
Marlene Dumas, Giardini central pavilion
I was struck by Dumas’ room full of skull portraits, which were hung evenly around a small, square shaped room. Each skull had a very individual personality and presence – blurry, eerie, confrontational and disturbing. She proved herself to be one of the most emotional and inspiring artists of her generation.
Seana can be found on Instagram @seanagavin
Prada’s Wes Anderson-Designed Bar in Milan
14.05.2015 | Art , Culture | BY: Mariella Agapiou
Prada has teamed up with their favourite director Wes Anderson again. This time, instead of directing shorts for their campaigns, Anderson has lent his unique vision to create a bar. Located in Milan, Bar Luce, which features a Life Aquatic-themed pinball machine, a jukebox and retro formica tables, is part of Prada’s new art and culture complex Fondazione Prada and was inspired by two Italian Neorealist films – Miracle in Milan (1951) and Rocco and His Brothers (1960).
“I think it would be an even better place to write a movie,” states Anderson. “I tried to make it a bar I would want to spend my own non-fictional afternoons in.”
Fondazione Prada and the Luce Bar is open now at Largo Isarco 2, 20139 Milano.
God Listens to Slayer
13.05.2015 | Art , Culture , Music | BY: Clementine De Pressigny
London photographer Sanna Charles has been shooting those who worship at the alter of Slayer for over ten years. Her recently published book, God Listens to Slayer, documents the ritualistic devotion of fans around the world to their musical deities. Flicking through its pages is to be transported to a hot, dusty metal festival, to feel the feverish anticipation before the band shows, the crush of uncoiled bodies in the mosh pit, and the calmer moments afterwards when the communion of fandom lingers. We caught up with Charles to find out how her striking book came about.
When did you first get into photography?
My Dad was a photographer, we always had cameras around and he got me one when I was quite young. I started learning about it while I was at school, then I went to University in Brighton to study it there. Initially I was doing a lot of architectural stuff—I would come back into London and take photos of urban landscapes that were quite stark and bleak. But I was always into music, so after I moved back to London I started photographing the rock and roll and punk scene. Then I got picked up by NME, so I kind of fell into music photography.
And it was while you were working for NME that you started shooting Slayer fans?
Yeah, it happened while I was on assignment at Download festival for them.
How did the project start, did you set out to shoot Slayer fans or did it evolve more naturally over time?
It definitely happened more naturally. It’s funny, when you’re on a job shooting a festival like that, you’ve got your list of bands, there is always a lot of running around to do, but in the quiet moments you’ve still got shooting in your head. I think I took about four of five pictures of Slayer fans at that festival. There was a group of guys running to get to the tent where they were playing, and I asked them to stop. I just really liked the excitement that they had at that moment in time, and I was trying to capture their energy. NME didn’t want to use those pictures; they weren’t really into documentary style at that time. But I kept hold of them and I felt like it could be the start of something. I was living with a filmmaker friend at the time, she had a car and we decided to just take off and follow Slayer on tour. We spent loads of money that took years to pay back.
Why do you think Slayer elicits such intense dedication among fans?
I think there is a mixture of reasons. When Slayer first started there was really an appreciation among their fans of being given a way to release aggression just by listening to the music—and watching them if they could. And the band hasn’t really changed, they have a formula that people love and they stick to it, they don’t alter according to fashions or tastes. Also, they created this genre, the speed metal, thrash style—it wasn’t really around anywhere else at the time, and people really appreciate that. It’s like an artist who starts a movement, or a film director who creates a certain style. Slayer took a real risk making music like that, and they were lucky that they exploded.
What was it like for you as a female photographer in the still very male-dominated world of metal?
You know, you get slimy comments sometimes, but I think generally as a female you get used to that in any environment and you build up a tolerance and know how to respond. In a festival environment most of the time you’re going to laugh it off, because it’s not worth it, and I was trying to get a picture.
A couple of photographs in the book are of girls. How do they fit into the world of Slayer fandom?
Sometimes girls who are into metal can be a bit harder than guys, they have their guard up because there’s not many of them. But once you start having a conversation then there’s a really nice mutual respect, you’re there for the same reason. There’s an unspoken thing that you get it.
God Listens to Slayer by Sanna Charles is published by Ditto Press and is available to buy now.
Twin Picks: Swimsuits
12.05.2015 | Fashion | BY: Mariella Agapiou
Summer holidays await us; the time to start thinking about beach attire is now. And this season, the one-piece has made a comeback. No need to bare all, just enough to get some sun. You’ll want something that will look good while you swim in the ocean, just as much as it will drinking cocktails poolside.
Looking to swimwear brands we trust for design and quality, we pick the top four of the season.
Lisa Maria Fernandez Farrah Maillot Bonded Swimsuit, £303, matchesfashion.com & Prism Forte Dei Marmi in charcoal, £190, prismlondon.com
Ephemera Noir Split One Piece, £149, ephemeralive.com & La Perla Dunes Swimsuit, £238, laperla.com
Caravan Restaurant’s Nepalese Feast Charity Evening
11.05.2015 | Culture | BY: admin
Caravan Restaurant, Exmouth Market is set to host a Nepalese Feast evening to raise money for victims of the Nepal earthquake, on Sunday 17th May. This one-off evening will feature a three-course Nepalese feast, plus welcome drink, prepared by Caravan’s Chef/Director Miles Kirby alongside the restaurant’s long-standing Nepalese chefs and front of house team.
Seasonal produce will be used to create Nepalese-inspired dishes, the team have created a menu that will start with ‘Momos served with tomato chutney, Nepalese potato salad, daikon pickle, beaten rice & roti’, a main course of ‘Welsh Mutton Curry with cucumber pickle’ and sides of ‘Creamy coconut lentils & green beans’ and ‘Cashew & paneer salad’. The dinner will finish with a dessert of ‘Gulab jamun,’ a sweet Nepalese take on the humble doughnut served with ‘Passion fruit sorbet & Kaffir lime syrup’.
All proceeds from the evening will be donated to the Disasters Emergency Committee, a charity running an appeal following the devastating Nepal earthquake last month. Caravan Exmouth Market staff will volunteer their time for the evening and the meat, vegetables and alcohol are all being donated by the restaurant’s suppliers; including Camden Town and Beavertown breweries, Liberty Wines, Kamm & Sons, First Choice Produce, FMV, Les Cave de Pyrenees and Daphne’s Original Welsh Lamb.
The Nepalese Feast charity evening at Caravan Exmouth Market is priced at £40 per person and includes the three-course set menu and a welcome drink.
Caravan Exmouth Market, 11-13 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QD
Voyeur: a Judith Bernstein exhibition
08.05.2015 | Art | BY: Lydia Winter
At aged 72, clad all in black and with messy hair, Judith Bernstein may not strike you as particularly political. But searching her name on Google rapidly proves otherwise: she is listed repeatedly as a feminist, psycho-sexual artist, with several references to her work being so erotic that it was censored. She was a founding member of A. I. R. Gallery, the first gallery devoted to showing female artists, and an early member of Guerrilla Girls, Art Workers’ Coalition and Fight Censorship. Bernstein’s oeuvres d’art sit at the intersection of pop, feminism and protest: it seems fitting that now, with the current resurgence of pro-female feeling, Mary Boone Gallery in New York is holding a major exhibition of her work.
Voyeur, curated by Piper Marshall, will feature pieces selected to highlight the way Bernstein confronts conservative gender politics with sexual aggression. The war-time phallus has been a recurring theme for the artist since 1964, but this exhibition in particular will focus on female genitalia, which Bernstein insists on calling the ‘angry cunt’: “I like to use that word. I like to rub it in…it takes the rawness away.” Works include Crying Cuntface, where the vagina is a head with horn-like cock eyes, and Quattro Cunt, a grid of four open faces shooting phallic-eyed glares at each other.
Voyeur at Mary Boone Gallery, from 7 May to 27 June.
Getting To Know: Lucien Wang
07.05.2015 | Fashion | BY: admin
Brought up in North China, LUCIEN WANG moved to Paris and studied at the prestigious Studio Berçot, following in the footsteps of Isabel Marant and Roland Mouret. Juggling editorial styling and designing a graduate collection, Wang then went on to work at fashion houses including Veronique Leroy to hone in on his skills, which can be seen via the tailoring in his AW15 collection.
Who is the LUCIEN WANG woman?
The LUCIEN WANG woman is elegant, attractive, reserved and fashionable. I hope that every LUCIEN WANG woman could let people around her feel easy going, I have never thought about putting a certain person as the icon for LUCIEN WANG, just wish the one who gets chance to wear LUCIEN WANG could feel herself.
You moved from China to Paris, how has that had an impact on your and your work?
I am a very thoughtful person, since my childhood, I love to observe everything that I haven’t touched before, including art, humanity, geography, climate, politics etc., even the language. The experience of getting along with a French family has made myself get the opportunity to study the reason that how a nation gains such a great success in the fashion. The long time working habits could let me change my mind among different countries, different cultures, I often change my thinking, and add a bit of humour into my collection.
You have previously worked at Veronique Leroy, what did you learn most while working there?
I was very lucky to get the chance to work with designer like Veronique Leroy, she has brought me a lot of different visions, especially how to work with fabrics, and the experience makes me understand and know deeper about the procedure and working method of fashion industrialisation.
How do you begin the design process?
At the beginning and during the process of making every collection, I will think about the comfort level and wearability again and again, and then to create, to create constantly, to build the expectation.
Do you have a favourite look from the AW15 collection?
I like looks featuring the overcoats, because they make the winter look not so dull, of course, all of them are my children, so I love them all.
Which are your favourite Paris hangouts?
My favourite places in Paris are the department stores, I tried to get to know what could attract me permanently, not just for once or twice, so the stores help me for my creation. Of course, galleries are the must-go place for me every week.
Girlhood
05.05.2015 | Blog , Film | BY: Lydia Winter
French director Céline Sciamma tackles feminine identity and coming-of-age in her latest film Girlhood, which debuted at Cannes last year. Originally attracting attention because of the implications of a white filmmaker directing and writing a story about black teenagers in the infamously troubled Parisian banlieues, the film has been nominated for four Césars, including Best Director and Most Promising Actress for its star, 20-year-old newcomer Karidja Touré.
Coming-of-age is not a new topic for Sciamma – witness her last two projects, Water Lilies and Tomboy – but a group of black teenage girls is a subculture that has rarely been depicted before. Protagonist Marieme is oppressed by her family setting, dead-end school prospects and the boys law in the neighbourhood. She starts a new life after meeting a group of 3 free-spirited girls, changing her name, her dress code, and quitting school to be accepted in the gang, hoping that this will be a way to freedom.
The result is a sensitive portrayal of feminine identity within the framework of social pressure, restrictions and taboos, of which image and identity are central. Perhaps most importantly, Girlhood’s success and publicity has made this particular subculture a lot more visible in France.
Girlhood airs in UK cinemas on 8th May.
She Was Asking For It
01.05.2015 | Art , Thoughts | BY: Mariella Agapiou
A new exhibition opens in New York today that looks at how clothing addresses identity. The six New York City women involved, who’s outfits will be on display, have experienced some sort of sexual assault in their lives. Artist Laura Jane Kenny looks at this sensitive subject and causes us to think of life after assault.
Viewers will be able to observe the diversity of each survivor’s approach to sharing their identity and personal style while eschewing vulnerability.
She Was Asking For It opens today at The Loft, Judson Memorial Church, 55 Washington Square South, New York, NY 10012.
Vans and & Other Stories: A Co-Lab
30.04.2015 | Blog | BY: Mariella Agapiou
& Other Stories, together with Vans, have created a collection of leather flats that combine the iconic Slip-On and Old Skool classic Vans with a customised & Other Stories twist. The three styles encompass the aesthetic values of both brands, creating something both contemporary yet timeless.
“We’ve interpreted Vans’ heritage sneakers in an & Other Stories way,” states & Other Stories shoe designer Nicole Wilson. “Bringing refinement and feminine edge to Vans’ street style legacy.”
To celebrate the co-lab, & Other Stories called upon models Daphne Selfe and Flo Dron to artfully showcase these new sneakers.
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