It’s been two years since Sarah Burton was appointed creative director of Alexander McQueen. Since then, her success at the label has been nothing short of a phoenix rising from the ashes.

Following the tragic and sudden loss of Lee McQueen, his design assistant for over 14 years was immediately thrust into the large gap that the English enfant terrible of fashion had left. Aside from the mourning of such a close friend, the expectations on Burton to continue his legacy were another heavy burden for the Manchester-born designer to carry.

But rather than crumble under the pressure, she excelled. From the delicate, earth motherly collection for Spring/Summer 2011 with which she made her debut to the futuristically astounding designs for this season, Burton has stepped out of the shadow of Lee McQueen to become a distinguishable design talent in her own right. Here is a woman who unarguably embeds the label’s DNA into every piece, but has considerably lightened up the overall feel of every collection from the at times dark and tortured soul that we knew and loved about the late designer’s collections to something softer, but equally breathtaking.

There is not just her accomplishments at the main line label to praise: having debuted the brand’s diffusion line McQ on the runway in a military

and forest-inspired show this London Fashion Week, as well as establishing its first standalone boutique in the capital, Burton isn’t just continuing the brand founded by her mentor, she is reviving it. Managing to guide the label from a desolate tragedy into a bright future, it’s safe to say that Lee McQueen wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.

alexandermcqueen.com
m-c-q.com

Tags: Alexander Mcqueen, Fashion, Lee McQueen, london fashion week, McQ, Sarah Burton

To many, Paris is the city of love. More importantly however, it is the city of fashion, which could not have been made more clear than through the variety of awe-inspiring runway shows this A/W 12 season. Twin recounts our favourite collections of Paris Fashion Week….

Alexander McQueen

Oversized visor/sunglass hybrids, shaggy fur trimming and heeless, leather strap boots were just the tip of the iceberg when it came to Sarah Burton’s extraordinary A/W 12 collection for Alexander McQueen. As always, there was no shortage of craftsmanship and detailing. Victorian ruffle collars, rolled pleating, laser leather cutouts and delicate floral appliques and embroidery heightened the luxury of the alpine white, pale pink, rose lavender and fuchsia pieces.

Despite the collection’s at times very voluminous silhouettes, silver waist-cinching belts and shorter hemlines still let the sensual side of the McQueen woman shine through. With gravity-defying silk chiffon standing away from the body like a sea anemone, intricately reworked velvet bearing floral shapes and marabou feather hems, Burton even managed to add a touch of earth to an otherwordly collection.

Celine

Phoebe Philo’s vision of the Celine woman has always been a modern and streamlined one. This season, she added a dash of athleticism and bold colours to that equation.

The designer’s signature colour palette of black and white was amped up through the addition of azure blue, fuchsia, rose pink, aubergine and vermilion red, while oversized wool coats, double piping on front-pleated trousers and striped crew neck jumpers gave the collection a more casual feel. But in fabrics such as supple leather and fur, each piece still had that unmistakable touch of Celine luxury.

Chalayan

In this collection, intricate prints resembled the hasty stroke of a painter’s brush, and paint Hussein Chalayan did with colours including crimson, teal, camel, tenné, emerald, fluorescent orange and green.

The silhouettes were streamlined in the form of oversized single-button coats, tunics and shift dresses, but always good for the unexpected detail, he added large cutouts, as well as rectangular bands in contrast collars to cinch in pieces at the waist and bust, not to mention reflective silver lamé panelling, trousers and brogues. Whether artistic or futuristic, every piece bore the Chalayan signature.

Chanel

Considering the high value that Karl Lagerfeld has in the fashion industry, it was only a matter of time before he produced a collection inspired by precious stones. If the set design of oversize crystals jutting out of the ground wasn’t hint enough, this season’s Chanel colour palette was all about the emerald greens, amethyst purples, ruby reds, golds, antique silvers and sapphire blues.

Whether interwoven with the house’s signature tweed or sewn into the sleeves, pockets and breast of a flared wool coat dress, Lagerfeld’s chromatic approach this season only heightened the luxury of the gemstone, feather and lace-crafted pieces. Their point of inspiration may date back to the beginning of time, but thanks to a mixture of architecturally sculpted and relaxed silhouettes, every look was pure modernity. Topped off with crystal eyebrows and Perspex-heeled pumps, this collection proved (once again) why Coco and Karl are the perfect match.

Stella McCartney

If anyone still associated the name Stella McCartney with The Beatles before, then this collection broke that bond once and for all. Working with colours of black, cyan, hot pink, charcoal, dark brown and white, it was a milestone in her journey from famous daughter to design star in her own right.

McCartney’s time at Saville Row made its mark in the tailoring of padded hips, oversized, rectangular cuts, and rounded shoulders, giving every piece a strong sense of structuring while offsetting the more feminine elements such as foliage embroidery and curve-tracing colour blocking. Her tribute to English style didn’t stop there: cozy waffle knit cardigans and dresses worn over Oxford button-downs, as well as A-line skirts in fabrics such as tweed, wool, mohair, crepe paid tribute to McCartney’s heritage. Balance being one of her strong suits, hip-slung, wide-legged trousers, streamlined clutchs, and contrast-coloured pumps and ankle boots gave everything an urban twist.

Tags: Alexander Mcqueen, Celine, Chanel, Hussein Chalayan, Karl Lagerfeld, Phoebe Philo, Sarah Burton, Stella McCartney

Initially gaining recognition for a collaboration with Dior in 1980, subsequent campaigns for Yves Saint-Laurent and Valentino and covers for Vogue and Vogue Italia have earned Italian photographer Paolo Roversi, a place within fashion’s aristocracy.

His solo exhibition at the Wapping Project – Bankside, allows the viewer compelling insight into Roversi’s methods, in terms of how a basic studio, a deep respect for models and a laid-back artistry translates into elegant compositions.

Shooting on his trademark 8×10 Polaroid film, Roversi produces captivating colours and contrasts, which enrich the unique perspective of each image. His mystical approach to photography, incorporating slow exposures, and instinctive, delicate lighting, reveals a glimpse into the souls of his subjects, culminating in beautiful, alluring portraiture.

His well-honed technique traverses the disciplines of classical painting and photography reminiscent of the Pictorialists with the use of soft focus and special printing processes, while simultaneously creating a subtle aura of mysteriousness.

Images from the monographs Nudi and Studio appear alongside a selection of his muse, Guinevere.

Paolo Roversi is at the Wapping Project Bankside until  31st March 2012
thewappingprojectbankside.com

Words by Dawn Daniels

Tags: Guinevere, Paolo Roversi, Polaroid Prince, Vogue Italia, Waping Project Bankside

Trust Nike to make working out hip and fun. For their new collection, Made By Nike, they’ve enlisted quirky blogger/DJ extraordinaire and Twin friend Bip Ling, to talk about her love of boxing.

The project, worked on by Twin’s Creative Director Becky Smith, uses the Tumblr format in order to make shopping an easy click and buy experience. Meanwhile the pieces, a slick collection of purple hued, grey and black sportswear could easily make it into our everyday wardrobe for some added sports luxe.

Twin caught up with Bip to talk about her involvement…

How did Nike find out you were a fan of the brand?
Through my blog bipling.com

You’re known for your fun style, what was it that appealed to you about the Nike Made For You collection?
I think every day is a stylie day, so when working out why not get into a stylie style.

Can you remember your first pair of Nikes?
My Indian grandmother Didas bought me Nikes when I first learnt how to walk. They were white with a blue Nike swish swoosh and with Velcro.

What are your top tunes to listen to while you work out?
I like to listen to Drum and Bass when I work out. It seems to give me lots of energy; it’s great fun to listen to when I punch the peanut ball in the gym and also for runs outside. Makes me feel like I am Sonic the Hedgehog.

1. Big Tings by Drumsound & Sion Bassline Smith feat. Skibadee
2. Dr Feels Good by Original Sin
3. Aztec by Spor
4. You’re Mine by Potential Badboy Deat. Yush
5. Feelings by Shy FX & T. Power
6. Big Bad & Heavy by Leviticus

What’s been your most fashion moment since starting your blog?
I’m not entirely aware of when a fashion moment occurs, but I do love living in the moment.

What would you do if the Internet disappeared for a day?
Learn how to sing.

Tell us another thing about yourself that nobody knows?
I really enjoy eating black pudding.

Last but not least, can you give us any boxing tips?
Punch with your core strength. 😉
Punch with a smile…
and style. 🙂 hahaaaa  lol.x

madebynike.tumblr.com

Tags: bip ling, Made By Nike, Nike, Tumblr

London Fashion Week A/W12 stood apart from other seasons in asserting the city’s place firmly within the fashion week calendar. Not just because of the brilliant creativity that the fashion world has come to expect, but because of the strength of the homegrown brands on show.

From big names such as Burberry and McQ to the young guns like Mary Katrantzou, Simone Rocha and Christopher Kane, whose collections just keep getting better, London proved that it can be a commercial contender, without losing it’s edge.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Showing a glimpse into her evening collection pre Paris Fashion Week, Stella did it in a way that obliterated the catwalk show and turned it into immersive theatre. The unwitting stage was a fashion fabulous dinner. Models, Amber Valletta, Shalom Harlow and Yasmin Le Bon confounded guests by erupting halfway through into a choreographed dance sequence of jaw-dropping craziness. The clothes, a tight collection of optical dresses, painterly cocktail numbers and tailoring, were shown as they should be, in the moment, working the party.

MARY KATRANTZOU

Mary Katrantzou’s collection was sheer artistry, from the trompe l’oeil prints of verdant maze gardens and clackety typewriters that drew the eye deep into the design, to the origami ruffles that fluttered off of collars and hems.

This was print done with structure and tailoring the Katrantzou way. As well as being brilliantly inventive, they were also eminently wearable, and are assured of a wide following.

CHRISTOPHER KANE

Christopher Kane’s show only further confirmed his eye-opening ability to draw on references and ideas like no other and make them fashion must haves.

There was gangster goth pinstripe skirt-suits and dresses alongside elegant chiffon dresses with applique black velvet flowers. The palette was darkly purple, black and royal blue and leopard print was done in the Kane way, injecting the print with a freshness that has tarnished over recent seasons. This was tough, feminine and most obviously from London.

MEADHAM KIRCHOFF

At Meadham Kirchoff the look was acidic with tribal crayon makeup and Seventies funky heels in silver, pink and gold glitter.

With the catwalk turned into a disco this was a larger than life collection of lamé, sequins, tinsel, fuzzy snakes and most importantly fun. But hidden amongst it all were the kind of separates sure to add zing to any wardrobe.

ELLIOT ATKINSON

At a salon presentation hosted by Colin McDowell at the Corinthia Hotel, Elliot Atkinson showed a collection inspired by medieval aristoracy wrought in modern urbanity. A palette of black, white and mustard was tailored to create a silhouette that was slim, fierce and undeniably elegant.

Tags: Amber Valletta, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou, Meadham Kirchoff, Shalom Harlow, Stella McCartney, Yasmin Le Bon

For Burberry Prorsum’s A/W 12 show, a love of youth and an understanding of heritage both found their place on the catwalk. Reflected in Christopher Bailey’s title Town and Field, this was a collection that melded the sophistication of a urban living with the guts of the country. Skinny tweed pencil skirts and flatcaps were matched with quirky animal cartoon knits for a look that was young socialite on a country shoot – pheasant rather than fashion that is.

The Burberry stamp was firmly placed upon the collection with enough coats and jackets to suit all tastes. There was everything from waxed cotton and cropped puffa jackets to Cara Delevingne in a beautiful dark purple belted princess coat. Throughout the collection the skirt reigned supreme, from tweed pencil skirts with bellow pockets to lace skirts with peplums, the silhouette was nipped at the waist with cute bow belts for Forties flare.

Burberry is undeniably a mega brand moment within London Fashion Week’s calendar, with a front row packed with celebrity fans and a model roster to match. But Bailey perfectly matched the brands worldwide popularity with its place in British fashion tradition. The simmulated downpour of English’s perennial rain to finish, couldn’t have been more apt.

burberry.com

Tags: Arizona Muse, Burberry Prorsum, Cara Delevigne, Christopher Bailey, Jourdan Dunn, Kensginton Gardens, london fashion week

Dress up like a dandy seemed to be Paul Smith’s motto for his A/W 12 collection.

Plush sapphire blue velvet trousers, iridescent dégradé burnt orange and grey dresses, as well as boyishly tailored pea coats and blazers defined a collection that stayed true to Smith’s self-described signature of ‘classic with a twist’.

Tweed and plaid prints paired with low slung, front-pleated trousers and silk draped tops kept the feel of the collection more feminine rather than borrowed from the boys, while the injection of colours such as deep fuchsia, emerald green and garnet punched up the chromatic factor for coming winter months.

Paul Smith may be a permanent fixture on the London Fashion Week schedule, but he sure knows how to keep things fresh.

paulsmith.co.uk

Tags: london fashion week, paul smith

For over three decades, Margaret Howell has been designing clothes for the quintessential British woman. This A/W 12 season, she provided a twist on traditional tweed, wool berets and menswear tailoring.

Inspired by Britain’s winter landscape, Shetland wool and a modern interpretation of traditional materials, Howell created a collection of silk and cotton button-downs, pleated drop-waist dresses and traditional outerwear in the form of sheepskin jackets and belted trench coats.  Held in a colour palette of navy, charcoal and moss green and accessorised with black leather penny loafers, each look was a perfect incarnation of the casual Britannia woman.

With a wearable collection tweaked with intriguing construction details, Howell proves that traditional doesn’t have to mean tedious.

margarethowell.co.uk

Tags: london fashion week, Margaret Howell

In December, Topshop launched their iPhone app allowing customers to search and shop from the comfort of their phone. And the virtual world continues to grow apace with the innovative store announcing  that throughout London Fashion Week, they will be streaming shows via their app live from the Topshop Show Space .

Brands that will be part of the streaming include Topshop Unique, Mary Katrantzou, Meadham Kirchhoff, Peter Pilotto, Louise Gray and Michael Van Der Ham. There’s also a film specially created for Topshop by Nick Knight and starring Karlie Kloss, behind-the-scenes videos and a make-up tutorial.

So if you can’t stand the crush of the shows make sure you tune in live, wherever you are.

Tags: london fashion week, Louise Gray, Mary Katrantzou, peter pilotto, Topshop, Topshop iPhone app, topshop unique

With a week’s worth of womenswear and menswear shows kicking off today, a new crop of fresh design talents will be making their London Fashion Week mark.

For this season, expect to see the collections of David Koma, Holly Fulton, J.JS Lee, J.W. Anderson, Michael van der Ham and Simone Rocha on the runway, as well as Christopher Raeburn, Thomas Tait, Nasir Mazhar, Sister by Sibling, Huishan Zhang, James Long, Lucas Nascimento, Tim Soar and Palmer//Harding presenting their unique designs in installations and exhibitions.

Helping them flourish in the fashion capital is the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN initiative, founded in 1993 and sponsored by Topshop. The scheme offers young creatives a platform to showcase their designs at Somerset House, as well as offering financial and business support.

With past recipients including Alexander McQueen, Matthew Williamson, Christopher Kane, Mary Katrantzou and Meadham Kirchhoff, the future is looking more than bright for this next generation of fashion talent. After all, there’s nothing like a new kid on the block to shake things up.

britishfashioncouncil.co.uk

Tags: Alexander Mcqueen, British Fashion Council, Christopher Kane, Christopher Raeburn, David Koma, Holly Fulton, Huishan Zhang, J.JS Lee, J.W. Anderson, James Long, london fashion week, Lucas Nascimento, Mary Katrantzou, Matthew Williamson, Meadham Kirchhoff, Michael van der Ham, Nasir Mazhar, NEWGEN, Palmer//Harding, simone rocha, Sister by Sibling, Thomas Tait, Tim Soar, Topshop

Kathryn Ferguson is one of a new breed of filmmakers who cut their teeth in fashion film. Over the past four years she’s moved from making shorts for designers such as Richard Nicoll and Katie Eary to experimental films such as Máthair, a visually startling exploration of her Catholic roots.

Having curated Birds Eye View Film Festival’s Fashion Loves Film strand at the BFI, on Friday Ferguson launches new festival FASH/ON Film with the British Fashion Council

With multiple projects in the pipeline, Belfast born Ferguson is undoubtedly a name to watch. Twin spoke to the filmmaker about her work so far…

What was the initial impetus behind you picking up a video camera?
I first picked up a camera in 2005 during the final year of my Fashion BA at CSM. I was frustrated with the flatness of two-dimensional imagery and wanted to try experimenting with creating immersive visual worlds combining moving image and sound.

How easy did you find the transition between working as a stylist to working as a filmmaker?
My passions pre-filmmaking had always lain heavily in photography and art direction. I dabbled in styling as a way of supporting myself throughout my BA but as soon as I made my first film Tingel Tangel, an experimental dance film featuring Paloma Faith, in 2005 I was sure it was film I wanted to pursue. However at that point I didn’t have the skills or know how to progress. In 2007 I decided to submit this early film to Birds Eye View Film Festival and to my surprise it was chosen for their UK Shorts strand at the ICA. This acknowledgment by them inspired me to throw myself 100% into filmmaking. During this time I made lots of experimental short films leading me to apply for a Masters in moving image at the Royal College of Art in 2009. My time there saw a transformation in my work and as a result have moved further from fashion and more into experimental film. I find film a totally thrilling medium to be working in as the boundaries are limitless. My initial step into moving image via the world of fashion has quickly evolved into a heady desire to tell stories via the medium of film whether it be documentary, music video, short films and beyond.

Your work, such as Máthair is very experimental – can you talk about some of the techniques you use in your work?
Máthair is the film that I feel really defines the area in which I am now most interested. Previous to the RCA, my work had mostly consisted of commissioned based fashion and music projects. The RCA was a fantastic experience as it forced me to work beyond an aesthetic and come up with my own brief and ideas. This was quite challenging to begin with but once I got going I decided I wanted to make a film about my mother but still adopting the visual style I was drawn to which is often creating worlds via montage / collage. I wanted the film to be a mix between the real and the hyper real. The reality of my catholic upbringing in Northern Ireland juxtaposed with an imagined hyper real fantasy version.

Máthair 2011, film stills

Máthairclearly draws on your own Irish background and ideas of faith, but what other ideas or cultural references are you drawn to in your work?
I feel my work seeks to create a sense of immersion and ecstatic experience through narrative and non-narrative experimental film. Taking influence from my background working with fashion designers creating experimental films to encapsulate their seasonal collections, I have developed a strong interest in the relationship between dance and movement, particularly around the tactile surface of fabrics in motion. Through a series of works that glean ritual and quasi-religious encounters, my practice combines elements of performance, religious iconography and symbolism, acknowledging early abstraction through the medium of film.

However, I’m becoming increasingly interested in women’s issues and now feel that my next series of films should be reflecting the female voice.  There needs to be more stories about women told by women.

A lot of exciting work is happening in fashion film, particularly by women, why do you think they’ve become so important both within the fashion industry and film?
I think it’s an incredibly exciting time for film in general, especially as so many women are finally picking up a camera. I’m really interested in how the female protagonist will be represented in fashion film. Generally speaking up until recently the majority of films have been through the male gaze so it will be fascinating to see how women will be portrayed when their image is predominately created and shot by female directors.  Fashion film is a fantastic medium for young designers to showcase their work without the crippling costs of the catwalk and marketing campaigns. It gives them a voice and a way to reach out to the world via the internet.  As it is still a genre very much in its infancy I am interested in its future development.

Tingel Tangel, 2005, film still

Lady Gaga / Dazed Digital, 2009, film still
Richard Nicoll S/S10’2009, film still

How has your own work evolved since your early films?
My early films were visual experiments.  I came from a world, i.e fashion, where image making is driven by an immediacy to create. Now that I’ve moved into other areas of filmmaking I finally feel like I can slow down and concentrate on making films that interest me on a more personal level.

I still feel like I’m only on the first step of my film career. I am very conscious of wanting to tell stories and I’m definitely moving more and more towards both narrative filmmaking and documentary.  High aesthetic used to be the driving force in my work and now I’m very keen to start making films where it’s secondary to a storyline or other people’s stories. Máthair was the first step in that direction for me.  Real people fascinate me, I want to tell real stories but with my own take and aesthetic being applied.

You’ve worked for BEV and are about to go on tour with the British Council – why is it important to you not to be working in isolation as a filmmaker?
My work with BEV was driven by a desire to work with women in general. As a festival, they supported me by showing my first film which is really what kick started all of this in the first place. I’m very keen to work with other women and truly believe films about women made by women are the way forward. I also find the work I am doing with the British Council thrilling, as I will travel the world working with filmmakers and creatives. I think travel is the best way to open your mind and I am sure it’s going to inspire me. Filmmaking as a practice is very immersive and my work as a curator for BEV, the British Council and more recently The British Fashion Council means I meet other people whose work I appreciate and I get to talk to them in depth about their practice.  I also really enjoy working with others whether it’s in a teaching / lecturing role or a project collaboration. I feel being out in the real world conversing with people informs my work as much as experimenting in an edit suite.

What is FASH/ON Film all about?
FASH/ON Film is a new initiative I’ve been working on with the British Fashion Council for the past few months. We’ve been talking about it for a few years in fact but now is the first time everything has come together and been made possible.  It is an initiative that will bring together both emerging and established filmmakers and fashion designers via a series of curated film screenings, Q&A’s, feature film premieres and film mentoring schemes.

What are your ambitions in terms of filmmaking? 
My long-term ambition is to tell stories.  For me 2012 is the year I plan to take the next step towards this ambition. I am currently writing a treatment for a long format documentary film with fellow female filmmaker Elisha Smith-Leverock. We met in Paris at a film festival in October and spent most of the night talking heatedly about women’s issues. We have been working closely on this since and now I feel it’s on the precipices of being realised.

kathrynferguson.co.uk
blinkart.co.uk
whitelodge.tv
britishfashioncouncil.com
backoftheenvelope.britishcouncil.org
thewproject.co.uk

Ship of Promises – Villagers 2010, film stills

Tags: birds eye view film festival, Blink Art, British Council, Elisha Smith-Leverock, Fash/On Film, ICA, Kathryn Ferguson, Máthair, Paloma Faith, RCA, The British Fashion Council, Tingel Tangel

Sicilian born Marco Glaviano is most famous for the beautiful women who have posed for his camera. Throughout his prolific career, he’s photographed more than 500 magazine covers for publications such as American Vogue, Harpers Bazaar and Elle, and is responsible for many of the iconic images of models such as Cindy Crawford, Eva Herzigova whose sex appeal summed up the  Eighties.

Glaviano was also a leading pioneer of digital photography and his was the first ever digital photograph to be published in American Vogue in 1982. For his first ever UK exhibition the focus is purely on his camera’s love affair with the supermodel; the sweat, sex and hair that bewitched a generation.

Marco Glaviano: Supermodels is at The Little Black Gallery, 13A Park Walk, London SW10 0AJ until 24 March
littleblackgallery.com

Images © Marco Glaviano

Tags: American Vogue, Cindy Crawford, Eva Herzigova, Marco Glaviano, Supermodels, The Little Black Gallery

For Fall 2012 at New York Fashion Week, Jil Sander’s more affordable little sister Jil Sander Navy presented a collection of modern brilliance.

While having elements of the sporty couture look that has been present at Jil Sander for the past three seasons, mixed in were more smartly tailored pieces; shirtdresses, wool overcoats and contrast collar shirts in a palette of salmon pink, tomato red and lashings of navy blue.

Accessories provided the quirks that differentiated this from the haute minimalism of the Jil Sander mainline and gave the collection a more everyday wear feel. Chunky platform shoes, luxe leather backpacks, grosgrain bow belts and Alice bands created a look that was prim Princess on a school day. Emminently wearable, elegant and feminine, but of course in the Jil Sander way.

jilsandernavy.com

Tags: Jil Sander Navy, New York Fashion Week

Do you remember your first pair of DMs? Twin”s Editor Becky Smith certainly does and still dons them now and then for an instant flash of Nineties nostalgia. For the second in their series of #firstandforever stories in collaboration with Dr. Marten”s, online magazine Le Cool, asked Becky to relive her first love – a pair of black DM boots.

Read Becky”s story here and reveal your #firstandforever tale .

Tags: Becky Smith, DM, Dr Martens, First and Forever, Le Cool

Noemi Klein’s jewellery has an elemental magic to it. Gold rings with the look and feel of mined minerals are layered between rings inspired by rib cages, bird claws and branches. Sparked by her own minimal style, Klein’s jewellery has a gothic prettiness that aches to be piled on and set against a black backdrop. Originally from Trier in Germany but now creating her pieces from a studio in East London, Twin spoke to the 34-year-old about her work and method…

When did you start making jewellery and why?
I started making jewellery when I was studying English literature eight years ago, partly because I couldn’t buy the pieces I liked and partly as a way to relax from the stresses of having to write essays. My hobby evolved into more serious metalwork when I was given cast off pieces of equipment by my dentist father, which got me started working with silver.

How many collections have you done?
It’s difficult to say because I work on each piece for itself. They then become parts of collections. I would say I make something like two new pieces each week.

What materials do you use in your work?
My work is made mainly from silver and gold, sometimes I use natural stones and recycled parts of vintage jewellery.

What objects and ideas inspired the current collection?
All my work is based on various aspects of the natural environment: landscape, anatomy, and most recently astronomy and geometry.

For current pieces I was inspired by Greenland  photography by Markus Buehler, and abstract space painting by Don Davis. Someone gave me some amazing fish bones from the Philippines that will form the basis of new work, and just now for this underwater series i’m really into the story of the Venus flower basket.

Do you design with a certain woman in mind?
Yes, me! I tend to make what I want to wear or what I like to look at as an object. But I find that all kinds of different women like what I like, and men, too!

Is there a particular film or book that inspires your work?
My favourite book is a Japanese novel called Kokoro, which roughly translates as “the heart of things”. There is a certain directness in it and the idea of the dark side in the quest for enlightenment which appeals to me, and I suppose you can see those in my work.

For the same reasons I love Luc Tuymans paintings and Robert Adams photography.

What role does jewellery play in style for your?
My clothes are mostly black so I wear single, simple pieces of jewellery during the day. When I go out I layer up on rings, and I’ve been seen covered in chains wearing one of my body pieces.

What are your working rituals?
I mix a straightforward German work ethic with a pretty dishevelled attitude to life, which in practice means I work a lot, on a various different projects. At the moment I’m working on commissions and a couple of collaborations (watch this space), plus i’m thinking about new work all the time, so no 2 days are ever the same.

Noemi Klein’s jewellery is stocked at:
start-london.com
notjustalabel.com
evanewyork.com
violentgreen.com

Tags: Eva, Maaike Mekking, Michael Aveling, Noemi Klein, Notjustalabel, Start, Violent Green

His first photograph in Vogue was of a Balenciaga hat, but with his original visual eye, it was only a matter of time before Parisian photographer Guy Bourdin’s images were international fashion perrenials. His work with French Vogue, coupled with his intuitive, ground-breaking advertising campaigns for Charles Jourdan shoes, changed the nature of fashion photography. Emphasis on the product was transferred onto the image, and in doing so, a new narrative was established, independent of the product itself.

Bourdin’s subsequent success afforded him additional artistic licence where lurid, eccentric and overtly sexual images explored the controversial themes of domination, violence and death, provoking accusations of misogyny and a morbid pre-occupation with mortality. Rarely seen images of his work are currently on show at Michael Hoppen Gallery, including a selection from his series for the 1980 Pentax Calendar, which serve as a fitting tribute to an artist who died 21 years ago in relative obscurity, and is considered to be one of the most influential fashion photographers of the Twentieth Century.

Guy Bourdin is at the Michael Hoppen Gallery until 10th March 2012
michaelhoppengallery.com

Words by Dawn Daniels

Tags: Balenciaga, Charles Jourdan, Dawn Daniels, Guy Bourdin, michael hoppen gallery, Pentax, vogue

Few men possess the kind of personal style that can start a female fashion frenzy. But Karl Lagerfeld, the world knows, is no ordinary gentleman. Last Wednesday his Net-A-Porter range, Karl, sparked a global rush for cutaway leather gloves and stiff necked white collars. And thanks to some innovative use of augmented reality pop-up windows, shopping online has never felt so communal. With windows in New York, Paris, Sydney, Berlin and of course Net-A-Porter’s hometown London, this was a truly Twenty-first century collaboration.

While many of the key items sold out in a flash, there are still many covetable pieces, sleeveless biker vests and gladiator sandals for two, that are just a few clicks away from landing on your doormat. If you haven’t already, it’s time to get online with Karl.

net-a-porter.com/karl

Tags: Karl, Karl Lagerfeld, Net-A-Porter

Yesterday marked the end of the Spring/Summer 2012 couture shows. The proverbial creme de la creme of fashion, only allowed to show during this three-day short Fashion Week through a Chambre Syndicale De La Haute Couture membership – haute couture doesn’t mean high dressmaking in French for nothing – showed a degree of craftsmanship and attention to detail all across the fashion spectrum.

Twin recounts our haute couture highlights from Paris…

Alexis Mabille

Proving that haute couture doesn’t have to keep to a demure palette, Mabille punched up the colour factor with his neon designs. Inspired by photographs of Lisa Fonssagrives and Christy Turlington, the creations in fabrics ranging from metallic lame to guipure lace proved that even when it comes to couture, girls just want to have fun.

Bouchra Jarrar

Working with crepe de soie, fur collars and wide-legged tailored trousers, Jarrar’s collection was a take on casual luxe. A bit of tomboy and a dash of urban sophisticate resulted in a whole lot of effortless cool.

Chanel

No couture week is complete without Karl Lagerfeld’s latest mind musings. Taking the double Cs to a more ethereal place this time around (airplane runway, anyone?) resulted in a collection of beautifully hand-embellished pieces in icy blues, ivories and midnight blacks.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab is the go-to designer for anything feminine and delicate, and this season was no exception. Lace and crystal embroidery on nude, pastel pink and pale lemon high-waisted dresses and A-line skirts made being a woman that bit more enticing.

Giambattista Valli

It may only be Valli’s second showing on the haute couture circuit, but the Italian designer proves that he can hold his own among fashion’s heavyweights. With a plethora of expertly tailored feather, lace and embroidered pieces, he’s as couture as they come.

Jean Paul Gaultier

In a beehive and winged eyeliner tribute to Amy Winehouse, Gaultier sent out a collection that was every bit as eccentric and nonchalant as the late singer herself. Encompassing pieces such as back to black shirt-tail hem skirts, leather varsity jackets and silk kimono coats tied at the waist, Winehouse probably wouldn’t have wanted her couture any other way.

Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal

Leave it to the house of Margiela to put an unconventional spin on couture. Rope, braided bracelets and hundreds of pearlescent buttons were turned into  knee-length trench coats, colourful micro dresses, and slouchy blazer and pegged trouser combos, proving that recycled fashion doesn’t have to be drab.

Valentino

It has only taken a few seasons for Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri to fully establish their trademark of girlish and graceful designs at Valentino. Marking a sweet end to haute couture fashion week, this collection of chiffon, lace and tulle in fine floral prints had a glamourised Charlotte Brontë/Jane Austen novel feel to it. Piccioli and Chiuri clearly have a talent for capturing fashion daydreams.

Tags: Alexis Mabille, Bouchra Jarrar, Chambre Syndicale De La Haute Couture, Chanel, Elie Saab, Giambattista Valli, haute couture, Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, Maison Martin Margiela, Paris, Valentino

A multi-media exploration of the interaction between fashion, movement and appropriation, the House Of Yvonne exhibition showcases the work of Colin Self, Kenneth Anger, Sophie Macpherson and Clare Stephenson.

Self’s colourful pencil drawings of female subjects from the 1960s, addressing the zeitgeist of passivity and fear during the Cold War, as well as the escapism that entertainment offered during this period, will be on display.

Whilst Self’s work is a thoughtful reflection on the isolation of the individual, consumer culture and politics, the screening of American film artist Kenneth Anger’s 6-minute short film Puce Moment offers an exploration of Hollywood hedonism.

Glasgow-based creative Sophie Macpherson, known for her work on the formation of self-identity through communication, presents an archive of Barbara Hulanicki for Biba dresses for the exhibit, while sculpture artist Clare Stephenson has created digital cut-and-paste martini glass designs as a representation of decadence.

Showing in the Victorian-style interior of temporary arts space The Hidden Noise, House Of Yvonne is an interesting and eye-opening fusion of art and fashion.

House Of Yvonne is on display at The Hidden Noise, 1/1, 24 Hayburn Crescent, Glasgow, G11 5AY, until February 11.
thehiddennoise.info

Tags: Art, Barbara Hulanicki, Biba, Clare Stephenson, Colin Self, exhibition, Kenneth Anger, Sophie Macpherson, The Hidden Noise

Central Saint Martins graduate Mary Katrantzou is undoubtedly one of fashion’s current favourites.Those who haven’t been able to grab one of her highly-coveted digital print pieces now have the chance to own a fluorescently bright handbag created by the Greek designer.

Part of her collaboration with Longchamp and now available exclusively at Colette Paris, the totes in 3D prints of lanterns, orchids and aquariums are the perfect excuse to put a bit of Katrantzou in your closet.

colette.fr
marykatrantzou.com

Tags: colette, Longchamp, Mary Katrantzou