Uniform Resource Locator : Stevie Dance
Stevie Dance made a crisp move to the shiny, red apple three years ago and continues to make big waves stateside. The fresh Australian is a stylist, creative consultant, writer, and founder of online zine Shop Ghost, fashion’s virtual, daily dose of C. Cool, calm, and collected, Stevie always has a pulse on next season’s juiciest thing.
On a frigid Wednesday afternoon, we met in her Chinatown apartment to discuss our love projects and a mutual appreciation for the sounds of shooting 35mm film. She exhibits a great deal of her personal photography via newly renovated Shop Ghost — a platform that further emphasizes her ability to marry photography and style. “I think at the end of the day, the image is what really matters, making a moment. The work should be about making it mean something, conveying a sensation, telling a story. Anything I do with fashion is in support of this,” Dance says.
She carefully curates everything she does even though her nonchalant swagger would lead one to believe otherwise. Dance is a busy girl but never spreads herself too thin. “I’m currently shooting a nude series on my friend Shanay, working with POP, Vogue Australia, and planning a chance to go for a swim.” Look out for SHANAYGOTKNOCKEDUP.com.justdoit and visit Stevie’s sites to see on the internet.
steviedance.com
chanceswithwolves.blogspot.com — For playlists
ffffound.com — For inspiration
pitchfork.com — For opinion
mnzstore.com — For buying
shopghost.com — For life!
Tags: Stevie Dance
New New York : Alice Waese. David Michael.
Emotion, observation, and handwork all describe the process of two designers that have people talking. Early in the morning, far from the hustle bustle of Manhattan, I explored two Brooklyn studio-apartments and found creations buzzing and glowing with otherworldly charm. With their name on the line, Alice Waese and David Michael are creating pieces you want to live in and there is nothing basic about them.
The Toronto native Alice Waese moved to New York after studying at the International Academy of Art and Design in Toronto and working for Jeremy Laing. In NY, she became Maria Cornejo’s right hand for several years before later settling across the pond in London. She is now back in hasty NY — a change of pace that has helped develop the collection through mere conversation, an exchange that introduced the idea of expanding her brand to include knitwear. Her work, a combination of “processes, research and intuition”, has fueled her latest endeavor which includes her sense of accessory and design. “The jewelry is more objective then ever before, while there are still organic and abstract shapes, the focus of the collection for me was more on a direct narrative — carved skulls and bodies like voodoo and worry dolls. It is a more obvious and emotional collection, more direct. The knits are a combination of hand and machine knits, a lot of color and texture.”
Tell Me More :
“I start the day off with 7 toed cat paws in my face. Strong coffee and drawing or emailing.
My wardrobe consists mostly of antique white men’s shirts collected in London, lots of Zero Maria Cornejo, white Arts & Science night gown / silk dresses, black leather Guidi boots.
Everyday jewelry includes full hands of rings, my tall bark ring cast from tree bark, multiple double rings cast from leather, stacked raw black diamonds.
Current studio playlist sounds like Chances with Wolves Radio via East Village Radio and lots of Bill Callahan, always. Austra, Will Oldham, Jennifer Castle, Jessica Pratt, Dylan, Kendrick Lamar, Yo Yo Ma, Timbre Timber, Joanna Newsome.
Home is a good place to make a mess.”
alicewaese.com
David Michael Hershberger, the intelligent, laidback designer from California launched David Michael last fall. His immaculate understanding of garment construction has also lead him to tailoring gigs with the likes of Dior, Chloe, Alexander Wang, and John Varvatos. His fresh women’s collection has a “neo-romantic” energy reminiscent of his earlier line Endovanera (co-founded in LA circa 2007). This time around the pieces are truly made to grace a female figure. “New Jack City” was this season’s inspiration, a 1991 American crime film that took place in New York City. “Everything is made in Manhattan, so I can be close to the process.”
Tell Me More :
“I start the day off with E 3 Live, playing music and the hope to get out at some point during daylight.
My wardrobe consists mostly of pleated trousers I get when I go back to LA. And trench coats so that I have the creep vibe going on.
Everyday jewelry includes my gold teeth.
Current studio playlist sounds like Frank Zappa’s Muffin Man — thanks Clay Webster for all the heavy cruisin’ jams. Jeffertities Nile, Baby Vampire Cape, Ariel Pink, Greatest Hits, Zak Mering, Raw Thrills.
Home is cruisin’. Just got a car, now I can explore the east coast.”
davidmichael.us/journal
Tags: Alice Waese, David Michael Hershberger, New York Fashion Week
DKNY x Opening Ceremony
Nothing lightens up a gloomy Monday like a good nineties revival, and the latest collaboration between DKNY and Opening Ceremony fits the bill perfectly.
A re-issue of fifteen archive pieces from the iconic label, the range is comprised of street-ready sportswear in the form of hoodies, puffer jackets and jumpsuits.
Watch Twin contributor KT Auleta and Jay Massacret take the new collection for a spin in the video below.
openingceremony.us
Tags: DKNY x Opening Ceremony, Jay Massacret, KT Auleta
Comme des Garçons x Hermès
What do you get when you combine one of the most influential designers from the East with one of the most prestigious luxury brands of the West? A limited edition line of silk scarves entitled Comme des Carrés to be exact.
Fusing together Rei Kawakubo’s eye for the all things off-kilter with Hermès’ reputation for craftsmanship and quality, the capsule collection is comprised of five Black and White styles in everyone’s favourite non-colours, plus six Colour scarves printed with geometric patterns such as gingham and stripes. The former will be exclusive to Comme des Garçons stores in Paris, New-York and Aoyama-Tokyo, whilst the latter will be launched at the Dover Street Market retail venues in London and Tokyo.
“In our project together, rather than wanting to wear the scarves, I was looking forward to the change that would happen when I added something to the beautiful ‘paintings’ of Hermès scarf designs. I think through the addition of abstract images, we have transformed the scarf and created something new,” explains Kawakubo.
Mission most definitely accomplished.
doverstreetmarket.com



Tags: collaboration, Comme des Garçons, Comme des Garçons x Hermès, Dover Street Market, Hermès, Rei Kawakubo
1205
They say that behind every great man there’s a great woman… and behind every great man’s great wardrobe is an even greater woman. Especially if his clothes rail is crammed to the sides with 1205 – the unisex fashion label set up by the tailor–turned–fashion designer, Paula Gerbase. “I had been on Savile Row for five years and felt it was time to move on to new challenges,” Paula told Twin. “I wanted to explore the possibility of taking the knowledge I had acquired on Savile Row further – that is when I launched 1205.” With previous experiences under her belt that nestle within both the womenswear and menswear market, Gerbase set out to create 1205 as a brand accessible for both men and women, but with a sartorial aesthetic which is consistent between both lines, focusing on the intriguing balance between femininity and masculinity.
Following a successful presentation of the latest menswear collection during London Collections: Men earlier this year, 1205 will also be debuting their Autumn/ Winter 2013 womenswear offering through the renowned NEWGEN initiative at London Fashion Week this month. Whether it’s due to excitement or curiosity (or perhaps just downright impatience) we decided that we couldn’t wait much longer so we asked Paula to give us more of an insight into 1205 plus an exclusive cheeky sneak peek of what fabrics, textures and colours feature in the new womenswear collection…
Firstly, what’s behind the name 1205?
1205 is simply the day I was born. To me it signifies the beginning – a fresh start. I had no interest in having my name on a label, I really just wanted to make clothing, and the graphic anonymity of 4 numbers felt right.
Although tailoring is very much a significant and fundamental feature to 1205, did you find the transition from designing for a traditional tailoring atelier to creating a contemporary fashion label challenging?
The most challenging part of 1205 has been to find manufacturers who are willing to find the balance between tradition and modernity, working with unusual fabrics, lighter constructions but still retaining a defined silhouette. My experience on Savile Row was with a tailor who was forward thinking and so the transition between Savile Row and 1205 was a natural progression.
Harvey Nichols hosted your latest menswear presentation during London Collections: Men earlier this month – how did that go?
Harvey Nichols hosted a preview of the collection, but in a way it was more of an introduction to the 1205 aesthetic, through Kindness’s performance wearing bespoke 1205. The idea was to collaborate with other creatives to showcase the wearability and versatility of the collection, as well as to show tailoring in movement, removing it from its usual rigid representation.
Does your personal style reflect similarities to the androgynous/ masculine aesthetic of your own womenswear designs?
It was never intentional, but my personal aesthetic probably does reflect in the collection. I have always loved men’s clothing for its attention to detail, focus on fabric and cut and its considered construction – I have worn men’s pieces for as long as I can remember. The subtle thought process and continuity of a man’s wardrobe was always interesting to me; they are values 1205 encompasses also.
You will be showcasing your Autumn/Winter ’13 womenswear collection next month as part of the NEWGEN exhibitions at London Fashion Week – any hints as to what we can expect? What was the inspiration?
The Autumn/ Winter 2013 collection is based on a few ‘Recits de Voyage’ I found by a Swiss writer and photographer who was most prolific between 1934 and 1942. They inspired a collection about travel, which translated into a redefining of the new 1205 uniform playing with contrasts of formal/casual fabrics and shapes, as well as introducing new fabrics such as waterproof flannel and knitwear. As ever, the focus of the 1205 collection is on subtle details and texture contrasts.
Who is your all time style hero?
Anyone with a strong sense of self, someone original!
1205.eu

Tags: 1205, AW 13, Paula Gerbase
Twin Picks: High Tops
Sport lux is going to be one of the big themes this spring, although filtering through in seasons past it’s been building to a crescendo of sorts. But be warned, with this trend it’s easy to get sloppy, and it can cause many a wardrobe malfunction. Opt to wear your high tops with regular staples, those go-to pieces we all love such as leather trousers and over-sized blazers, and keeping to muted colours allows you to be a little more playful with the rest of your outfit. Here are Twin’s favourite trainers to run around and play in.

Saint Laurent Malibu high top china blue trainers, £320, Cricket-fashion.com
Marc By Marc Jacobs 70mm Cut Out Calfskin High Top Sneakers, £330, Luisaviaroma.com

Maison Martin Margiela High Top Trainer, £401.21, Farfetch.com
Nike Dunk Sky High Olive Wedge Trainers, £85, Asos.com
Tags: Hi-Tops, Maison Martin Margiela, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Nike, Saint Laurent, Twin Picks
BLK DNM: A Johan Lindeberg Project.
The home of the cool kids, BLK DNM is best known for its coveted leather and denim wear, mixing that easy downtown New York vibe with chic Swedish minimalism.
Leather is a special thing, and Johan Lindeberg knows all about it, having launched his limited edition collection of women’s leather jackets in eight enticing styles.
The project, BLK DNM Leather Jacket 8, has seen the reworking and redesigning of his signature jacket in textured luxury Italian leather and fur combos, all handmade in NYC.
Speaking about the capsule collection, Lindeberg says: “I’ve built BLK DNM as a creative project, rather than just another fashion brand, to explore initiatives like this one. I like that we can take one of our core products, the leather jacket, and create an exclusive edition for a high-end capsule collection that still fits with the brand identity. I’m always inspired by independent, intelligent women with strong self identities, and wanted to reflect those different personalities with this project. Each leather jacket combines a unique pairing of leather textures and colors, as well as shearling fur variations, to present a strong character, each to speak to a different woman.”
Johan channels this ultra sexy independent biker chick (think a leather clad contemporary Suzi Quatro/Joan Jett type) through the collection’s campaign featuring Dorothea Barth Jorgensen, photographed by the designer himself.
The BLK DNM leather jacket 8 leather capsule collection is available exclusively at the BLK DNM stores in New York, on Lafayette Street and Stockholm, as well as Colette, Paris.
blkdnmcloseup.com




Tags: BLK Denim, Dorothea Barth Jorgensen, Johan Linderberg
Theysken's Theory SS'13
January is beginning to look a bit more cheery here at Twin HQ; the gradual arrival of the new season fashion campaigns that have been creeping their way into our inboxes certainly are keeping us in high hopes for the new year with a subtle reminder that spring is soon approaching.
The latest advertising imagery from Theysken’s Theory is one that has stood out amongst the pack, with a unique composition that merges stylised shots of Wylie Hays with landscapes of the seashore in Knokke Le Zoutte, Belgium captured by himself. Plus, not every campaign can boast that its final polished look is the result of combining the creative minds belonging to three of the world’s most influential Belgian artists: designer Olivier Theyskens, photographer Willy Vanderperre and stylist Olivier Rizzo.
theyskenstheory.com
Tags: advertising campaign, Fashion, SS13, Theyskens' Theory
The Power Of Three: Dagmar
Some say creativity and ambition is a genetic trait – something powerfully instinctive that lies deep within the veins. This perhaps could be the reason why three sisters from Sweden decided to combine their talents, experience and specialties to create their own sibling success story. Sofia Wallenstam, Kristina Tjäder and Karin Söderlind launched their fashion label, Dagmar, back in 2005 after developing three very impressive careers of their own within three very separate areas of the fashion industry: design, retail and PR.
Since then, Dagmar and its three founders have continued to find success both in Sweden and overseas, picking up numerous awards and achievements along the way.
Tomorrow the ladies will be showcasing their latest collection at Mercedes-Benz Stockholm Fashion Week. Twin spoke to Karin, the label’s Head of Marketing and PR, ahead of the show…
You launched Dagmar over 7 years ago – how have things developed since then? What have been the highlights throughout this time?
There have been so many highlights! Every year has been overwhelming, however some of our awards have been the biggest highlights to date; we were awarded with the NewGen Fresh Faces New York in 2007, New designer of the Year by Swedish Elle magazine in 2006 and won Guldknappen in 2011 – Scandinavia’s most prestigious design award. But just to be able to grow and hire people has been a milestone for us. It’s always a great moment when more people join the team every year.
Does working as a family business make it easier or harder? Obviously you all have each other for support but are there times when sisterly squabbling gets in the way?
Honestly there are some times when it does get a bit like ‘this is something that I would never say to any other employee’, but we try hard to work things out when it gets in our way.
Do you all have your own individual roles within the business?
Yes, from the start we split the responsibility between us. Sofia Wallenstam is Head of Sales, Kristina Tjäder is Head of Design and I, Karin Söderlind, am Head of Marketing & Pr.
Describe your signature aesthetic in just 3 words.
Unconventional & sophisticated (even better, I could do it in only two!).
Opening today is Mercedes-Benz Stockholm Fashion Week, where you will be showcasing your AW’13 collection. What’s the inspiration/ concept behind it?
There was a huge Renaissance influence taking over us and so you can detect some of that within the collection. We put a lot of focus on jackets and coats this time with knitted furs, strict wool capes and coats with interesting cuts.
Dagmar is named after your late Grandmother who you’ve stated as being your muse at the beginning. Are there any other inspirational women who influence your work?
We are always inspired by strong women for our collections but not any particular one this season… well maybe Mona Lisa!
Any big plans lined up for 2013?
A lot of things always seem to happen, planned or not! We have huge plans, but more for the long run than specifically for 2013. Short term we are opening a big shop within NK in Stockholm this February, plus we’d like to have more of a presence in London this year… let’s see how…

Dagmar Spring/Summer 2013
houseofdagmar.se
Tags: AW13, Dagmar, Fashion, Stockholm Fashion Week
Twin Picks: Bomber Jackets
The weather may be freezing, literally, but we’re already dreaming of spring, which makes it difficult to pick your outfit du jour. One piece that works well for trans-seasonal dressing : the bomber. Picking the right one makes all the difference to your street-style cred, so here are Twin“s four carefully chosen jackets that will keep you warm now and all the way through to summer.

House of Hackney Empire Silk Blouson Jacket in Midnight Stripe, £335, Houseofhackney.com & TOPSHOP Quilted Bomber Jacket By Boutique, £65,

Three Floor GINTA Bomber Jacket, £138, Threefloorfashion.com & Rag & Bone Cambridge Bomber Jacket, £670, Matchesfashion.com
Tags: Bomber Jackets, House of Hackney, Three Floor Rag & Bone, Topshop, Twin Picks
PATTERN
This month marks the release of PATTERN, Phaidon’s latest feat into the world of fashion. This ‘catwalk show in a book’ is curated by 10 of the most influential names in fashion today and is set to be on every stylish coffee table come spring.
Not only does this new hardback focus on the more established fashion capitals such as London, Paris, Milan and New York, but it also highlights emerging ones such as Shanghai, Amsterdam and Sydney, featuring 100 of the most exciting designers working today. The 10 individuals prized with choosing said designers are Tavi Gevinson (Style Rookie), SHOWStudio, Imran Amed (Business of Fashion) and Yasmin Sewell (Chief Creative Consultant for Liberty of London) to name a few.
Featuring over 1,000 colour illustrations, never-seen-before photographs, sketches, drawings and computer renderings, it gives us a deeper look into the careers of the selected designers. Established figures like Christopher Kane, Alexander Wang and Louise Gray; emerging names like Phoebe English and Thomas Tait, as well as contemporary print pioneers Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto and Holly Fulton. PATTERN highlights the dominance of British fashion education, due to the fact that a quarter of the designers cited trained at St Martin’s or at the Royal College of Art. But at the same time, it also celebrates designers such as Max Osterweis of Suno and Scott Sternberg of Band of Outsiders, who never had any formal training.
PATTERN is available on the Phaidon website and at selected book stores. The book is sold with its own accompanying tote bag.
www.phaidon.com


Tags: PATTERN, Phaidon
Marni Reincarnated
The brainchild of Consuelo Castiglioni, Marni is that quirky Italian label which always manages to put a new spin on its eclectic aesthetic. It’s only natural that the house’s first ever fragrance carry on that tradition.
The subtly masculine scent steers far away from stereotypical smells of femininity such as florals and saccharine sweetness. Instead, the crisp yet spicy top notes of bergamot, ginger and pink peppercorn make way for a rose, cardamom and cinnamon bark concoction, grounded by a woody accord of patchouli, incense, vetiver and cedarwood. So while there is a ‘feminine’ heart of rose notes, it is enveloped in multiple layers of spices and woody notes, making for an elusive, multi-faceted and original scent.
As a house renowned for its use of prints, the polka dot-covered and clean-lined bottle makes the fragrance come full circle to a pure olfactory reincarnation of the Marni brand.
MARNI launches exclusively at Harrods and Harrods.com in February.
marni.com
Tags: Consuelo Castiglioni, fragrance, Harrods, Marni
Twin Picks: The Beanie
The nineties revival brought back dungarees, and most recently the scrunchie, yet one love affair that doesn’t seem to be going anywhere is our obsession with the beanie. This simple accessory transcends styles and is worn by hip Dalston creatives as well as the fashion-forward West London commuters. You can find them at a large variety of retailers in rainbows of colours and a plethora of materials, with bold slogans or embellished with crystals, but these are the archetypal hats that caught Twin‘s attention.

Somewhere Nowhere Embellished Beanie Hat, £32, Bengtfashion.com & The Kooples Knitted Hat, £60 £30, Thekooples.co.uk

Ragged Beanie By The Ragged Priest, £15, Theraggedpriest.com & The North Circular Travelling Cable Beanie , £95, Thenorthcircular.com
Tags: Beanie, Ragged Priest, Somewhere Nowhere, The Kooples, The North Circular, Twin Picks
Legendary Prints
For most people, the Louis Vuitton brand name immediately conjures up images of those infamous, and often copied, interlocking L and V letters. But in fact, its little logo sister, the Damier canvas, celebrates a proud 125 years of iconography this year.
The first ever patented invention by the house of Vuitton, this discretely brown and beige checkered design has literally proven to stand
the test of time since its introduction in 1888.
Since then, it has undergone several colour palette changes, but nonetheless is a universally recognisable trademark of the French design house. For this anniversary, the Damier has been given a neon-hued and athletically shaped makeover. Further proof that a luxurious classic never goes out of style.
louisvuitton.com
Tags: anniversary, damier, Louis Vuitton
I Can’t Seem To Get Rid Of The Horses
SMITH/GREY is a young jewellery brand based in London and founded by designer Birgit Marie Schmidt and creative strategist Sofus Graae. Together they have won many awards and crafted collections inspired by creativity, that are not only made to the highest standard, but are intriguing, wearable, little pieces of art. It was their first collection for women, I Can’t Seem To Get Rid Of The Horses, that caught my attention and the latest, entitled Peculiar Things, that cemented that interest.
What initiated your love of jewellery?
The idea of creating stories in small scale using precious materials for individuals who long for wearable artifacts to express their personality.
Tell me a little about both of your backgrounds…
Birgit grew up in Vienna, Austria so she used to read Freud’s dream analysis and lots of Kafka which definitely influences her way of visualising her thoughts. She studied architecture before studying goldsmithing at the Royal College of Art.
Sofus is from Copenhagen, Denmark with a background in graphic design and came to London to work on visual effects for feature films which he was educated in at Vancouver Film School.
Together we have a wide-ranged background in the creative fields, which means it never gets one-sided.
How did SMITH/GREY come about?
We met years ago and from very early on there was an interesting creative chemistry between us. Back then, it was very natural for us to discuss or dream up ideas or thoughts that we had come up with or discovered. This collective curiosity for more was a big factor in us wanting to work together, which led to establishing SMITH/GREY.
What was the initial inspiration behind the brand?The shared excitement to create something personal as well as a need to express our ideas. We were envisioning a brand that takes its customers on an inspired journey through our jewellery, stories and imagery.
Would you say that SMITH/GREY is a combined reflection of your personal styles?
Yes, very much so. We have a similar taste and style when it comes to the aspect of the brand and products. We combine our ideas and abstract what we believe works best. Having your own brand gives you the freedom to create from your very own point of view, which is one of the greatest things for a designer.
Birgit, how did it feel to win the Theo Fennell ‘best in jewellery’ prize?
It made me extremely happy! Theo Fennell is one of the great jewellery designers and to have him compliment my work, which I have been working on quietly on my bench for months, made me feel quite humble. It was the first praise the designs received during the opening of the RCA Final Show and therefore it meant a lot to me.
Why did you choose London as your brand’s home?Sofus: London really lives up to its reputation as a creative and inspirational hub. It is very natural for us to feel at home here with our different cultural backgrounds, and our creative network keeps fueling our passion to create new designs and experiences for our customers.
How would you describe your creative process? Does it vary when designing for men or women?
We begin by designing for ourselves and then test the creative energy and potential in the ideas against what we think our audience would find interesting.
Birgit, who is mainly focusing on the collections for women, tends to be quite playful in both theme and shapes which is great as these collections are usually broader in range, encompassing both statement and everyday designs.
The men we design for often favour style icons with strong personalities when looking for inspiration. This means we have a different set of challenges when designing for them but something we enjoy equally.
Are there any jewellery designers you look up to or take inspiration from?
There are many talented and inspirational jewellery designers out there but largely the inspiration comes from adjacent creative realms such as filmmakers, architects, writers and painters. We gain more inspiration from someone’s energy and storytelling than from the actual work itself.
What does 2013 have in store for SMITH/GREY?
We have two new A/W13 collections in development. Both collections are due to be presented in spring 2013 so stay tuned for the new styles.
www.smithgrey.co.uk


Tags: Birgit Marie Schmidt, Peculiar Things, Smith/Grey, Sofus Graae
Twin Picks: Sweatshirts
Sweatshirts are not just for lazing around – pairing them on top of shirts with heels is just one chic alternative. Whichever way you like to wear yours, there is a great array of designer jumpers to choose from and with the sales still in motion, now is the perfect time to buy. Especially if temperatures are set to hit just a lousy 2 degrees in London this weekend. Brrr.

Kenzo Leopard-Intarsia Cotton-Blend Sweater, £245, Net-A-Porter.com & APC Pull Raglan Bimatiere Ecru Knit, £205 £102.50, Coggles.com

Brian Lichtenberg ‘Feline’ Cotton Sweatshirt, £100, Brownsfashion.com & House of Holland Ride It Sweatshirt, £75 £45, Houseofholland.co.uk
Tags: APC, Brian Lichtenberg, Coggles, House of Holland, Kenzo, Net-A-Porter
Gucci Gets A Manga Make-Over
Gucci’s Creative Director, Frida Giannini, has collaborated with renowned Japanese Manga artist Hirohiko Araki, to create an exclusive Manga story that will be displayed in more than 70 Gucci boutiques around the world.
Araki took inspiration from Giannini’s 2013 Cruise Collection and referenced the house’s iconic Flora Pattern in his latest creation entitled Jolyne, Fly High with Gucci, which tells the story of Jolyne Cujoh, a student who inherits a keepsake from her mother’s Gucci collection. He stated “Frida’s beautiful Cruise collection with its strong colours and graphic designs set my mind racing the moment she showed it to me. From there the characters and storyline came into being so naturally. It was very stimulating to work together on this project.”
Giannini added that “I am quite sure his window installations will stop people in their tracks in cities around the world as they immerse themselves in the fabulous fantasy world he has created.”
www.gucci.com
The PFW Lookback Part I
The S/S 13 season was eventful to say the least: Twitter feuds between Hedi Slimane and NY Times fashion critic Cathy Horn, Ready To Wear debuts at the houses of Saint Laurent and Dior, and between it all, some wonderfully accomplished collections.
Twin looks back at which collections made us say je l’adore.
Chanel
Presented in a setting of solar panels and wind farms instead of a crystal landscape, Karl Lagerfeld went a bit more down to earth this S/S 13 season. A-lines, bolero jackets and rounded silhouettes with floral embroidery in every colour under the sun were topped off with oversized pearl necklaces. Like its staging, the collection was the perfect mix of technological linearity and natural materials and forms.



Christian Dior
Raf Simons may have already shown us his haute couture offerings for the house of Dior, but nonetheless there was still a great anticipation for what the Belgian designer would bring to the Ready To Wear table. The answer? Expert tailoring mixed with modern femininity. Pleated office attire was given metallic panels, sequined evening gowns a sheer overlay and nude shift dresses an exposed neon lining. With so much love for detail, it’s hard not to give Simons a congratulatory thumbs up for his efforts.

Comme des Garcons
In fabrics of toile and velvet, Rei Kawakubo crushed, sculpted and draped an intriguingly beautiful collection. Save for a flash of royal purple or fire red, the collection kept mostly to CDG signature colours of black and white. While the surrealist-style crowns designed in collaboration with artist Graham Hudson and linear white make-up may have given the models an otherworldly look, there was still something beautifully fragile about the body — and person — in these clothes. As with all things Kawakubo, this collection is definitely worth a second look.


Tags: Chanel, Christian Dior, Comme des Garçons, Karl Lagerfeld, Raf Simons, Rei Kawakubo, S/S 13, Spring/Summer 2013
A. Sauvage x Dr. Martens
Dr Martens is shining a more polished shoe these days, thanks to the brand’s collaboration with menswear designer A. Sauvage.
The two-years-young label created a more elegant take on what is perched atop those famous, light air cushioned soles: colours of midnight blue, white and black, in fabrics ranging from patent leather to woven kente silk.
A very street venture for the Mayfair-based label and a rather high-end approach for the punkish footwear brand, this unisex range is a prime example of what happens when you think outside of the (shoe) box.
asauvage.com
drmartens.com


Tags: A. Sauvage, Adrien Sauvage, collaboration, Dr Martens
A.P.C. + Nikesday
A.P.C. has teamed up with Nike for a collection of casually cool kicks.
The brand founded by Jean Touitou in 1987 has garnered a cult following thanks to its minimalist but covetable styles. Putting a French spin on the sportswear brand’s timeless Dunk and Air Max styles, the collaboration brings a more sophisticated touch to the wardrobe staple, thanks to muted colours such as navy, ecru and brown, plus suede paneling.
Following the A.P.C. mantra of the most desirable wardrobe items being those that whisper instead of shout, we say strike while the iron is hot.
A.P.C. + Nike launches tomorrow and will be available exclusively through A.P.C.‘s retail stores and online shop.
apc.fr




Tags: A.P.C., collaboration, Jean Touitou, Nike