I first met Brianna Lance when I went into Reformation to buy a skirt almost five years ago. At the time, every piece was one-of-a-kind and the girls sewed them in the back. The skirt was too big at the waist and Brianna – this beautiful creature – came out to fit the skirt to my exact measurements. Eventually, I was hired at The Reformation (as one of just two girls who worked in the shop) and I worked with them for a year and a half before the company grew into the amazing brand it is now.

Brianna serves as Head Designer and somehow manages to find time to perform with her band Bad Girlfriend. I sat down with her to ask her a few questions about her impressive work in both fashion and music.

Let’s start with the beginning: Where are you from? How did you end up in New York?
I grew up in Dallas, Texas. I moved to New York to go to Parsons for Fashion Design. I just stayed after that. I can’t imagine living anywhere else right now. I’m too spoiled by living here.

Was fashion design always a part of your life? How did you begin?
I was really interested from clothes as a kid, and my parents really encouraged it. They wanted me to do something I was passionate about so from the time I was 14, I think it was pretty set that I was going to go into fashion.

How did your relationship with Reformation start out?
I was friends with the founder Yael before. The company had been around about 6 months before I started. I was doing styling at the time and feeling a little burnt out on it, so she suggested I come work for her. I’ve been with the company five years now. Most of it as Head Designer and very recently as Creative at Large.

Do you feel the brand has changed a lot over time?
It has grown a lot and also become more what we want. It’s a clearer message now. The more we stay true to our interests, design ideas and message, it seems the more people respond to it.

Does it feel like a reflection of whatever you’re inspired by aesthetically at the time?
It feels most like a reflection of a particular message we have. We want women to feel beautiful and like the best version of themselves. We want them to feel like our clothes highlight the best parts of them. That is mostly what we design for: sexy, cool, chic, free spirited women.

If you had to choose one uniform to wear every day for the rest of time, what would it be?
Oh, that’s easy: jeans and a good blouse. Obviously there are a lot of temperature fluctuations that would make that less than ideal. But style-wise, I feel like that is always in fashion. That, or a really good jumpsuit.

Can you tell me a little bit about your band, Bad Girlfriend?
It’s an all-girl four piece that really likes making guitar-heavy music. It is the thing I do in life that gives me the most pleasure: singing and playing guitar. 

Did you always play music?
I played piano when I was young. Then when I moved to New York, I was a tambourine girl in a psych band. I learned to play guitar though about 5 years ago.

If you had to listen to five songs-and five songs only-every day for the rest of time, what would they be?
Tezeta- Mulatu Astatke, Numer One- Bill Moss, Cool Waves- Spiritualized, Sull’aria- Marriage of Figaro, Suzanne- Nina Simone

Is music and fashion a major balancing act for you or is it just life as it should be?
I can’t do just one thing. I have to do a lot of different creative projects to interest myself. Otherwise my brain gets bored. I’m always happiest when I have many different projects going on; it makes me feel the most alive.

thereformation.com

badgirlfriendband.com

Lyla Vander from Bad Girlfriend left, Brianna Lance right.

Photography by Alejandra Sabillon

Tags: Bad Girlfriend, Brianna Lance, new york, The Reformation

For Autumn/Winter 2014, Charlie May, the womenwear designer with a minimal and monochrome sensibility, called upon knitwear specialists Eleven Everything to create stunning wooly pieces to add to her collection of elegant androgyny. “I’ve admired Kathryn [the designer behind Eleven Everything] and her work for some time,” states May, “so when we met through a mutual friend it was the perfect opportunity to work together. I had been wanting to explore knitwear and the process behind it for my own collections and Kathryn was keen to explore womenswear, so it was a natural collaboration that took form.”

Taking inspiration from the textures of Dartmoor, Devon, the rugged, windswept environment is reflected in her use of pony hair and Mongolian furs. “I was super excited seeing the swatch/sampling process, so many beautiful merino wool styles to choose from but we went with chunky polo’s with long sleeves and origami wrap skirts. The focus is completely on the fabrication in my view, the texture of the rib stands out so beautifully.”

Tags: Charlie May, Eleven Everything

After an incredibly well-received SS15 presentation at the ICA during London Fashion Week, Faustine Steinmetz has collaborated with Opening Ceremony to create an exclusive window installation at their Shoreditch store for the duration of fashion month. The display illustrates Steinmetz’s interesting process – her handwoven fabrics are made using artisanal techniques, everything is woven, worked and finished, with some pieces taking days to complete.

Inspired by the almighty couture houses, the East London based, Parisienne born designer looked at how they can be intrusive, how their countless lines and infinite products are pushed into our lives. Her presentation explored the relationship between those products and the way in which they are presented. She believes it is all about our perception of the product and how they make us feel. To us, a Fasutine Steinmetz piece makes us feel very special indeed.

Opening Ceremony Shoreditch: 106 Shoreditch High Street London, E1 6JQ

faustinesteinmetz.com

openingceremony.us

Tags: Faustine Steinmetz, opening ceremony, Shoreditch

KNITWEAR Chanel to Westwood celebrates the evolution of woollen garments this autumn at The Fashion and Textile Museum. With over 150 pieces on display, the exhibition features rare crocheted evening dresses, original faire isle jumpers and 1930’s swimwear, from the collection of Mark and Cleo Butterfield. Not only will you find designs from Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garcon, Julien McDonald, Ossie Clark and Mary Quant, but you will also see the technical innovations taken place throughout the ages.

Accompanying the showcase is Visionary Knitwear, a look at contemporary fashion clothing from established and graduate designsers. Sandy Black, professor of Fashion and Textile Design and Technology at London College of Fashion pulls together bold designs from creative talents such as Mark Fast, Sister by Sibling, Lucas Nacimento and Julien Macdonald. Highlighting how knitwear is now daring, bold and has a sense of humour.

KNITWEAR Chanel to Westwood opens today and is open until 18th January 2015 at the Fashion and Textile Museum 83 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF. 

ftmlondon.org

Tags: Chanel, fashion and textile museum, Knitwear, Vivienne WEstwood

Ukranian by birth but Italian by adoption, Svetlana Taccori developed a passion for making dresses for her dolls from a young age. Heavily influenced by her family of knitting fanatics, she decided to use the pieces in her closet as the basis for setting up her own knitwear label, and Tak.Ori was born. Her debut collection of knitwear has already been snapped up by Browns, Colette and ModaOperandi, and her AW14 collection will be available from Net-A-Porter and Matchesfashion.com

With knits on the horizon as a key winter trend, Twin chats to Svetlana to find out more about recasting fashion’s idea of the traditional woollen jumper.

What kicked off your love for wool?
I grew up in a cold country so I know the challenges of being well dressed and warm. Knitted items were always in my wardrobe and from a very early age I developed a passion for the softness, the volume and the warmth that comes from it so I suppose I’ve always had a love affair with wool even if I was unaware of it.

What is your favourite kind of wool?
I love merino and cashmere for their softness but in general I like experimenting and mixing the different types of wool. I’m constantly trying out new techniques, which will allow me to mix different wool fibres and colours together to create pieces which are easy to wear and that don’t react badly when washed.

Do you know how to knit? What kind of techniques do you use and which are your favourites?
I grew up in a household of knitting fanatics! I was eight when I had my first knitting classes and that’s when I learned how to turn a heel and make mini socks on five needles. I prefer to knit smooth surfaces using different colours as though I am painting on a canvas. In fact, I would have loved to be an artist and that’s partially due to how much art and literature combined to influence me while I was growing up, but my career path always seemed as though it would involve a needle and yarn. My love for fashion won out in the end!

Many people regard wool as quite casual and traditional – how would you dress it up?
I agree, knitwear was traditionally considered casualwear and at the beginning of the last century, it ended up in our closets because it was comfortable and cozy, making it a redundant textile in high fashion. But that’s an outdated concept for me. Wool is sustainable, renewable and eco-friendly, it’s also one of the most versatile yarns out there and it needs to be celebrated. I want to show that high fashion can be both beautiful and comfortable. I want to use its wholesome and pure image but add a rebellious and seductive element that’s both elegant and fun. In a way, I want to revolutionise the fashion knitwear scene and this is my way of rewriting the story of wool by showing that even an evening dresses can be knitted and look amazing. Wool pieces give you a freedom of movement that you don’t always get with other fabrics.

Who are your style icons?
I’m inspired by a bygone era of bold, outrageous women. Women who were intelligent, bright, charming and eccentric, yet elegant and chic at the same time. No doubt this is because we don’t really know them personally, and don’t see them in everyday situations which means they can’t disappoint. Today we seem to live in a society that favours exhibitionism over substance – I call it the Herostratus effect! My AW14 collection is influenced by the Marchesa Luisa Casati. She had a strong personality, she was charming, shocking and had a certain je ne sais quoi that made her the most fascinating and fashionable woman in Europe at the turn of the 20th century. I also love Nan Kempner. Her style is timeless but also very appropriate for today.

Where did you learn your craft? Have you worked with other designers?
At thirteen my grandfather gave me a sewing machine for my birthday. My parents had mentioned to him in passing that I was hand-sewing dresses for dolls. Every time I was given a doll, actually, the first thing I would do was to rip the clothes it came in off and make new outfits for them. So when I received my sewing machine there was no stopping me, and I moved on from making clothes for dolls to making clothes for my mum, sisters and school friends.

What prompted you to start your own label?
I’ve spent the past 15 years working in the fashion business for some of the most well-known luxury brands in the world, but I always felt it was inevitable that one day I would set-up my own label. Since my teens, I’ve been collecting hats and scarves everywhere I go (I have over a hundred hats and seventy scarves). It was after a trip to Cortina that I finally found the courage and felt that the time was right to go and do my own thing.

What inspired your SS15 collection?
As I mentioned earlier, knitwear and jersey came into our lives and into our closets in the 1920’s and this was a time of major change for women. I am intrigued by the way the suffragettes used their clothing as placards to fight for the vote. I wanted to dedicate my collection to that era and I wanted to celebrate and thank those women who made the freedoms many women enjoy today possible. These women were bold and, if you like, revolutionaries. So for my spring summer 2015 collection I wanted to create a modern interpretation of their strength and femininity as well as a contemporary view of the clothing worn by them. By using knit and jersey, which at the time were considered second-class fabrics and used solely for underwear and sports clothing, I feel it embodies the spirit of the suffragettes.

Are you influenced by your dual nationality?
I think we’re all influenced by our environment but our childhoods no doubt have the strongest influence. I can honestly say I feel very comfortable wherever I am. I love exploring the traditions and history of all the countries I visit – I will read the literature, listen to the local music, visit the art galleries, watch the movies, look at the colours and talk to as many people, young and old, as I can. I feel this willingness to learn helps to influence me in creating collections that appeal to people from different countries and continents. Of course it’s inevitable that I am also influenced by my Ukrainian roots and Italian adoption and, although I don’t rely on these elements for direction, I think you can see the bold, vibrant but traditional Ukrainian fused with the well cut, urban Italian chic in my designs, but luckily I’m a fan of dualities.

What can we expect from you in the next year?

I don’t know what to expect from myself! My main objective will be to continue to create contemporary, luxurious and innovative garments, and my fascination with fabric and wool technology knows no bounds. My fascination with experimentation helps push me creatively, especially during our spring summer collections as I have to focus on delivering wearable and interesting luxury pieces that are breathable and comfortable. We have big plans though and, I definitely want to improve my English!

tak-ori.com

Tags: Fashion, interview, Knitwear, Q&A, Tak.Ori

As the fashion pack heads to Milan, we look back at the Burberry SS15 show from London Fashion Week. Titled The Birds & The Bees, Christopher Bailey’s vision for spring featured butterfly and honey bee motifs, along with bright bold font designs. Those same prints were hand-painted on the runway and plastered on the transparent roof, further illustrating Bailey’s inspirations. The Mac, more than just a Burberry staple, came in denim, suede or satin, and some were cropped or flared. And of course, everything was tied in a cute tulle sash bow.

This season Burberry partnered up with YouTube, giving us unrivalled access to the SS15 show highlights and much more. Watch the video below.

burberry.com

Tags: Burberry, LFW, SS15

Although the fashion crowd will be flocking to Milan for its beloved MFW from the 17 September, the afternoon of Sunday 21 sees Marni presenting an entirely different kind of show.

The Marni Flower Market, to be held in the baroque Rotonda della Besana, will feautre bundles of flowers interspersed with house-like stalls showcasing their wares. This display of freshness and vitality, hustle and bustle, is intended to accentuate the brand’s Italian roots; fitting for a house that is often floral-inspired.

Carolina Castiglioni, Special Creative Director, is heading up the event with Stefano Rabolli Pansera, the architect and curator of the Angola pavilion at the 55th International Art Exhibition – La Biennale di Venezia.

There will be a variety of items for sale, from PVC vases decorated with archive Marni prints and Japanese porcelain pots complete with flower seeds, to animal sculptures handcrafted by a group of Columbian women.

The Flower Market also marks a collaboration with the Museo dei Bambini di Milano. A series of children’s workshops will be available to the public, and exclusive items such as gardening aprons and tool bags, hand-painted in Zambia, will be on offer. The project underlines Marni’s commitment to philanthropy, with part of the proceeds from the sale of these limited edition products being donated in support of children’s organisations.

marni.com

Tags: culture, flowers, Marni, MFW, Milan

Marta Jakubowski caught our attention with her MA graduate collection, when it walked down the Royal College of Art’s Graduate Showcase back in June. Meters of red, white and black fabric connected the models, creating a fluid line of design, from train to metallic headpiece. Intrigued, we caught up with the young designer to find out more.

Tell us a little bit about your background – where did you study?
I started my degree at University of Applied Sciences Trier in Germany, took a year out to study at Central Saint Martins and finished my MA at Royal College of Art this summer. In between, I worked with Bruno Pieters, Jonathan Saunders, Alexander Wang and Hussein Chalayan.

You’ve lived in many cities – Berlin, Antwerp, London and New York. Does this influence you as a designer?
I’m not sure how it influenced me as a designer yet – it definitely influenced me as a person. It used to be so exciting for me to move to new cities with one suitcase, sometimes not even sure where to live and creating my own little life from scratch. I was always very lucky to meet amazing people. There was a time where I couldn’t stay longer than six months in one place, I would get bored and had the need to move on. London is different – it feels home and that’s nice.

What was the inspiration behind your MA graduate show?
It’s about the loss of my mum and how much I love and miss her. It’s about the endless connection after being separated. I was trying to capture emotions, all the sadness, madness and sickness in my silhouettes. I was very angry and depressed while I was working on the collection. Now I feel more peaceful if I look at the collection. I guess to deal with it was the best therapy.

Why red, white and black?
They were the colours I was seeing, feeling and thinking at that moment. There wasn’t another option. Red for love, black for sorrow and white for a new beginning.

What design houses or fashion brands do you aspire to be like or find inspiration from?
I love the late 90’s early 2000’s, especially the work of Hussein Chalayan, Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela at that time. It’s was so subtle, effortless and had a great concept.

What have you been up to since graduation?
I had a great summer in London, it’s so good to be able to spend more time with my friends again. Besides that, I’m still trying to earn a lot of money. Lately, I was preparing for London Fashion Week, where I’m showcasing part of my collection in the British Fashion Councils’ ‘Once to Watch’ installation in Somerset House – that’s very exciting!

Marta Jakubowski‘s London Fashion Week exhibition opens today as part of the Designer Showrooms at Somerset House. 

Photographer Niko Mitrunen captures Marta Jakubowski in her studio. 

Tags: AW14, london fashion week, Marta Jakubowski, Niko Mitrunen

KENZO’s creative directors, Carol Lim & Humberto Leon have teamed up with TOILETPAPER magazine creatives Maurizio Cattelan, Pierpaolo Ferrari and Micol Talso for the third time to create the advertising campaign for the autumn/winter 2014 collections. Inspired by the new season’s line, along with David Lynch and his oeuvre, they came up with yet another bright and bold campaign – one that is not forgotten easily.

To celebrate, they are also releasing the third volume of KENZINE, which will feature unseen images from the campaign shoot. With a limited run of only 2000 copies, we suggest getting to your nearest store stat. On September 27th that is, when they go on sale exclusively in KENZO stores worldwide and from March 2015 in other selected retail stores.

“For the third instalment in our collaboration with TOILETPAPER for our advertising campaigns, we worked with Maurizio, Micol and Pierpaolo to take people on a mysterious journey to an unfamiliar world. A place where the ordinary is slightly distorted, mirrors lead to other dimensions, and the strange and beautiful coexist in singular harmony. We love that David Lynch’s skewed and somewhat disruptive sense of storytelling seamlessly fits with how the TOILETPAPER approach image making and the final results speak for themselves. Needless to say we’re delighted with the outcome and hope everyone else enjoys the images as much as we do.” – Carol Lim & Humberto Leon

kenzo.com

Tags: Kenzo

Ralph Lauren introduced it’s new Polo line for women in a new, revolutionary way at New York Fashion Week.  The models walked a runway that was projected above Manhattan’s Central Park, appearing like beautiful mirages using four-story-tall holographic effects.

“I really wanted to do something big for the new Polo Women’s brand — something set in the city — that felt modern. We
returned to Central Park, a place I love, and captured the spirit of Polo with a truly innovative mix of fashion and
technology,” said Ralph Lauren.

To find out more, watch the behind the scenes film below.

ralphlauren.co.uk

Tags: NYFW, Ralph Lauren, SS15

When the models walked the catwalks back in February, there was one accessory that came out on top – the wide brim hat. The beanie reigned supreme for many winters, and although some will find it difficult to say goodbye it’s seems it’s finally time for a new hat to rule. Many designers this season have given us their version of the trilby and fedora, all with an exaggerated brim to keep those unwanted voyeurs at bay. Here we pick our top four styles of the season, so all you need to worry about is that pesky hat-hair.

Etudes Studio Midnight Hat in Grey, £185, etudes-studio.com & Maison Michel Fara Wide-Brimmed Fedora, £300, selfridges.com

Saint Laurent Wide-Brimmed Fur-Felt Hat, £705, matchesfashion.com & A.P.C. Dark Navy Felt Trilby, £145, avenue32.com

Tags: APC, AW14, Etudes Studio, Hats, Maison Michel, Matthew Gregory, Saint Laurent

This year at the Venice Film Festival on 30 August, fashion giant Miu Miu screened its Women’s Tales project, paying homage to talented women of the silver screen.  The series of eight short films were directed by up-and-comers like Zoe Cassavetes, Lucrecia, and Miranda July. These fashionable featurettes, with their wacky but pensive subjects, are all accessorised by beautiful clothing and fabrics from Miu Miu (of course).

The latest instalment is Somebody, by writer, filmmaker and artist Miranda July. July wrote for the first issue of our very own Twin magazine, and has been going from strength to strength ever since.

Somebody accompanies the release of the eponymous app, a new messaging service that enables you to say something difficult to someone you love. Her ironic, witty and touching short film includes a tragedy featuring a sick mother, a devastating break-up, and a bizarre ménage-a-trois between two prison guards and pot plant named Anthony.

This quirky analysis of society’s hunger for communication and technology feels fantastically surreal, but with a striking element of truth.

miumiu.com

somebodyapp.com

Tags: app, Fashion, film, Miu Miu, technology

It seems, this season, that the world of fashion is still captivated by the roaring twenties. Chanel’s new fine jewellery collection of geometric shapes, dripping in diamonds, evokes art-deco glamour, accompanied by the romantic backstory of the legendary Gabrielle Chanel’s stratospheric social rise and her love of the ‘café society’.

Within the collection, the Symphony series, a composition of light around different diamond cuts, features a long string of jewels looking almost like bars of music. Likewise, the Charleston series’ square medallions and fringes of gemstones conjure up the elegance of days gone by.

The house of Chanel was born at a time when society was starting to rebel against puritan conventions. Arts were on the rise – the ‘cult of talent’ would create an aristocracy of taste, as poets, musicians and socialites flocked to the French Riviera to carouse in the sunshine. The decade was known for extreme extravagance – and what better way to bring it back than a collection drenched in diamonds?

chanel.com

Tags: 1920s, art deco, Chanel, diamonds, jewellery

Linda Farrow’s AW14 offering only furthers their diverse and adventurous exploration of eyewear. Introducing thirteen new sunglasses and eight new optical styles in either acetate, metal and of course, snakeskin. You’ll find the fashion frames in sun-bleached hues and subtle tones of storm, deep coral, oyster, shell, apricot, and mink, as well as bright contrasting colours and the classic black and white.

The AW14 collection also introduces two new Superchunk shapes, providing thick acetate frames up to 9mm – for those who love to go bold. Every piece has the extraordinary finish and attention to detail that Linda Farrow is renowned for.

lindafarrow.com

Tags: AW14, Linda Farrow, Sunglasses

For aficionados, fashion is much more than a frivolous indulgence in the latest trends. It is about self-expression, identity and creativity. This is what the major autumn exhibition at the London Design Museum intends to celebrate. Women Fashion Power opens on 29 October, looking at the ways in which women are using fashion to define and enhance their place in the world. Fittingly, the exhibition is designed by Dame Zaha Hadid, the first and only woman to have won the prestigious Pritzker Architecture Prize in 2004. She herself is well known for her fashion statements, currently sporting pink ombré hair.

It will feature exclusive interviews, an immersive multimedia journey including archive photography and film footage, and historic pieces of clothing to illustrate a timeline of fashion over the past 150 years, from restrictive corsets to Louboutin’s statement heels. There will be an iconic Yves Saint Laurent ‘Le Smoking’ suit, a Mansfield suit worn by Margaret Thatcher and a Jacques Azagury dress worn by Princess Diana, amongst others. To add to the excitement, over 25 contemporary women will be featured in the exhibition, and each of them has donated one of their outfits. Naomi Campbell, Dame Vivienne Westwood, Livia Firth (wife of Colin), Roksanda Ilincic and Natalie Massenet (of Net-A-Porter) are just a few of the famous names.

Fashion, it seems, is growing ever more important as a tool of empowerment, for building a reputation, attracting attention, and asserting authority. You might want to think on that when you plan your next outfit…

Women Fashion Power at the London Design Museum, from 29 October to 26 April.

designmuseum.org

Tags: exhibition, Fashion, london, London Design Museum, Women

Goodhood opened in East London back in 2007 and have been growing as a brand and store space ever since. This September sees the launch of their biggest expansion yet, moving their flagship to a two-storey, 3000 sq feet store in the heart of Shoreditch. Co-founders Kyle Stewart and Jo Sindle have a ‘curational’ style of buying, rooted in design, quality and creativity, making the concept store, along with Goods by Goodhood (the store’s in-house collection of tees, tops, stickers, bags and homeware), the first name that comes to mind when you think luxury casualwear.

We caught up with both Kyle and Jo to find out what the big move means to them, what we can expect and of course, what the future holds for Goodhood…

When did you realise that you had outgrown the original store?
I think last Christmas. It was when our stock room started to expand, up the stairs, in to our office, in to our studio and on to our desks.

Apart from size and location, how will it differ from Coronet Street store?
All the new additions will be what makes this store different from our beloved Coronet street; the cafe, the kidswear collections, an expanded print section, an exhibition space, a dedicated cosmetic zone,  more from the brands you already love and some exciting new ones.

Did you work with a designer?
Nope. It’s all been done in-house by the Goodhood founders and team.

Was there any other London areas in mind for the new flagship? Or is it all about East London?
We would only ever consider being in East London as a home. However watch this space for future developments!

Tell us about the Goodhood Cafe. What tasty treats can we expect?
We’ve gone in to partnership with Brett Redman, owner and chef of Elliot’s, so will be providing some world class coffee, complimented by open sarnies, seasonal produce and an exclusive GH menu.

Goodhood has become a leader in terms of luxury casualwear. What do you look for when it comes to the designers and brands you stock?
We are interested in selling clothes, we’re not so interested in fashion or trends, obviously we do feel it, but we like to see garments that are rooted in culture, and the history of clothing, workwear etc.

Are there plans for stores in other locations? What’s next for Goodhood?
We will be working on expanding our own product range in the future. Our dream is to open stores in LA, Tokyo, and Ibiza.

The new store is located at 151 Curtain Road, EC2A 3QE and is open for business. 

goodhoodstore.com

Tags: Concept Store, East London, Goodhood, Menswear, Womenswear

Before starting his eponymous label, Patrick Li worked for some of fashion’s most established designers of avant-garde. Names such as Hussein Chalayan and Viktor & Rolf, and as a graduate of Royal College of Art’s MA Womenswear course, he is a true master of his craft. The pieces he creates are sculpted from his imagination, giving us an insight into Li’s world of expression. One we can’t wait to see more of.

Patrick Li will be showcasing his SS15 collection at London Fashion Week, but we caught up with the designer before the fashion season rush to find out more about the man behind the clothes.

When did you decide on a career in fashion?
Growing up I was always drawn to art and crafts, anything creative. I knew that it was something I was good at and felt great doing. Although fashion was not something that crossed my mind at first, it was the stimulating images in glossy fashion magazines that drew me in. I took a foundation course in art and design and tried out different disciplines in alternative creative areas. As a result I came to study fashion and have never looked back.

What does fashion mean to you?
Fashion is visual and a medium of self expression.

What attracted you to London as a place to start your brand?
London is one of the most creative and exciting cities to live and work in, I have liked it ever since my first visit. There are less boundaries and rules about fashion in London, which gives it the edge over other fashion capitals. It helps promote creative start-ups.

Your designs are heavily detailed and intricate. What inspires them?
The inspiration is drawn from various elements of research, mostly from visual imagery, which I then develop from there. I have taken quite a relaxed and free approach when beginning to gather thoughts and inspiration for AW14. Instead of focusing on a singular theme, I listened to 90’s and early millennium electronic tunes, and looked at abstract black and white photography of urban objects and city landscape. I was especially inspired by the composition of repetitive patterns and regimented lines in the images. The aluminum chain details were developed from there.

What are your favourite materials to use?
I tend to work with different contrasting materials every season, however, there are always silks in my collections.

Describe the Patrick Li design ethos in three words…
Modern, clean and graphic.

Your SS14 collection was very light with flashes of neon, whereas AW14 is very dark and broody. Can we expect another bright collection for SS15?
SS15 will be light and a bit more playful. Spring/Summer is always light for me, whereas Autumn/Winter needs a stronger and more protective feel.

patrick-li.com

Tags: LFW, Patrick Li

Dover Street Market, the oh-so-stylish retail outpost from Japanese label Comme Des Garçons, is about to break its conspicuous social media silence with the launch of its Instragram, @doverstreetmarketlondon.

While it is obviously not the first fashion brand to turn to the world wide web for creative inspiration, it is somewhat surprising given that, until now, DSM has been abstemious when it comes to social networking. So what has prompted this move online?

The Instagram heralds a series of celebrations to mark DSM’s ten-year anniversary. Since opening its doors in London on 10 September 2004, DSM has well and truly established itself as a fashion haven, and these festivities will be its crowning moment.The entire store will undergo some exciting changes, and the exclusive collaborations will have fashionistas in a frenzy.

After three days of closure, the store will reopen on September 1, with a completely transformed basement and second floor, while the first floor will be entirely given over to Louis Vuitton for the duration of AW14. The Rose Bakery will be enlarged, as will the jewellery and wallet display on the ground level. The basement will be home to a new NikeLab, to be celebrated by the release of a special edition shoe, and Tokyo’s Good Design Shop (a collaboration between Comme Des Garçons and D & DEPT). There will be event spaces dedicated to different designers that will change each week, and four open days throughout September when these designers will be in store to greet customers.

Perhaps most exciting will be ‘Market Street Dover’, some temporary market stalls that will be set up all through the building selling special collaborations and products celebrating ‘ten years future and past’ of DSM. The stalls will be hawking a bevvy of limited-edition creations from Sacai, Simone Rocha, Rick Owens and Phoebe English, to name but a few.

The festivities will kick off on September 1 with the launch of Pharrell Williams’ GIRL fragrance, as well as the unveiling of an installation designed by Comme Des Garçons’ creative director Rei Kawakubo that will cover the entire building’s façade. A happy birthday indeed!

doverstreetmarket.com

Tags: Dover Street Market, Fashion, london

Where better to reveal a killer collaboration between a hot designer and a high street stalwart than a rollicking party at Coachella in April of this year? Both Kate Bosworth and Katy Perry were in attendance, while Iggy Azalea was on hand to perform after the big announcement.

New Yorker Alexander Wang will be latest designer to collaborate with H&M, and is the first American to do so. This seems like the perfect partnership. The king of sport-luxe and the Swedish fashion brand will be working together on both men’s and womenswear, while also producing a line of lifestyle items.

So far the items have been kept firmly under wraps, so fans will have to wait until the range launches instore and online on 6 November.

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Tags: Alexander Wang, H&M

Charlotte Gainsbourg is known as an actress, singer/songwriter and muse, but now she can add designer to that too. In collaboration with denim brand Current/Elliot, the French beauty has created four exclusive capsule collections all inspired by her own chic and understated style.

“For me, denim has always been a fabric that can take on the personality of the person who wears it,” stated Gainsbourg, who designed denim jackets, coats, jeans and blazers for the collection. Serge Azria, CEO and creative director of Current/Elliott, said that “we both wanted to create something special, not a large line; the best shirt, the best jean, the best jacket.” And that, it seems, they have.

The Charlotte Gainsbourg x Current/Elliot collection is now available at Net-A-Porter, MATCHESFASHION, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. 

Tags: charlotte gainsbourg, Current/Elliott