What you need to know from Stockholm Fashion Week

10.09.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY:


The summer months were once quiet for the fashion industry. Nowadays, the cycle of fashion shows continues throughout the summer with editors making visits to Helsinki, Berlin, Madrid, Copenhagen, and Oslo. Stockholm Fashion Week is the last stop on the summer tour, though by no means the least important.

Sweden boasts an impressive group of designers who are adept at offering singular sartorial ideas. Some have been in the game for 25 years while others’ experience hasn’t quite reached 5.

“The fashion week just ended here in Stockholm, and the interesting thing is that there is so many new and gifted talents that are showing here,” shared designer Ida Klamborn. “I would say there is a new generation of Swedish brands that are doing something interesting and pushing the Swedish fashion industry forward.”

Read Twin’s highlights from Stockholm Fashion Week this season.

Filippa K

Filippa Knutsson founded her brand Filippa K in Stockholm in 1993. In the 25 years she’s been in business she effectively placed the streamlined, minimalist aesthetic, and Scandinavian fashion, on the map. 

With stores in Sweden, Belgium, and the United States, amongst others, Knutsson is undoubtedly one of the tentpole fashion names drawing the international attention to the Swedish capital.

However, Knutsson isn’t one for theatrics. Her Spring 2019 show took place in an informal setting. Models completed a procession against a blank backdrop, posing individually for groups of attendees. The consolidated womenswear and menswear outing demonstrated why countless individuals choose her work. It’s not about groundbreaking ideas or revolutionary propositions—sometimes, once deftly executed, an airy jacket in neutral shades of dove, clay, and taupe, or crisp white trousers, can be considered a radical statement.

Filipa K | SS19 collection

Stina Randestad

“My collection has a starting point in exploring and combining materials. The material comes first letting it decide the form of the garment,” explained Stina Randestad over email. The Stockholm-based designer presented her MA collection from the Swedish School of Textiles show at the school’s on-schedule group show. “The work, therefore, positions itself in the intersection of textile and fashion design, and shows an example of how a different design process can generate an interesting result.”

The designer’s use of colour was sublime. A juxtaposition between acidic brights and sober tonal hues. Meanwhile manipulated silhouettes and structures produced a mesmerising effect. Randestad belongs to a generation of designers willing themselves to express their creativity in an unconventional fashion. 


“The dream would be to continue making showpieces for special people on special occasions. I don’t know if that would be called a brand really? I want my future to be flexible,” Randestad said when asked about her future, adding: “One week I make a showpiece for a performance, and the next month I drop a small collection of printed shirts and then a collaboration with an interior brand.”

Stina Randestad

Amaze x NH(O)RM

Mathilda Nilsson and Hanna Rudebeck founded their label NH(O)RM in 2011. Like Randestad, they’re alumnae of the Swedish School of Textiles. For Spring 2019, the pair adopted an unconventional approach by partnering with the creative platform Amaze. 


Silk scarves were transformed into dresses, striped shirting was reimagined as decadent gowns while bicycle shorts were positively Elizabethan in aesthetic. The brand reworked the tropes of traditional beach dressing, making it into something subversive and transferable.

The show was a jubilant display of body positivity, racial diversity, stature, and composition. It turned the conventional runway on its head. In a way, it felt like Sweden’s answer to Eckhaus Latta, which is as much an inspired artful movement as it is a fashion house. 

Amaze x NH(O)RM

Ida Klamborn

Ida Klamborn’s millennial-centric collection was another belonging to the set of shows who dispelled the default, perfectly-packaged Scandinavian lifestyle trend of polished silhouettes, clean lines, and tonal hues with an amalgamation of colour and texture.

For Spring 2019, she issued a colourful proclamation on summer dressing. Replete with jewel tones and abbreviated hemlines, Klamborn’s rendition of influencer-friendly, festival-ready clothes wouldn’t feel out of place on Kendall Jenner’s Instagram feed for all its silky separates and feathered frocks felt in line with the current iteration of youthful, feminine dressing.

As the designer explained: “I have always been interested in clothes as a kind of language. When I was a kid I was quite shy, so through clothes I could express myself without words. It was like a safe and fun space. This season it was about the ‘conflicted princess.’ I wanted to do new and more dynamic version of my childhood memories of those quite flat dimensional princesses from movies.”

Ida Klamborn | Photo: Mathias Nordgren

Stand

Stand is one of the many contemporary Scandinavian brands vying for the attention of the international fashion pack. The brand closed out the three-day event at the Grand Hotel. Founded by Nellie Kamras in 2014, the brand’s focus is on accessibility, bringing the use of leather to an audience at a lower price. In recent years, the designer has added cashmere, fur, faux fur and wool to the mix to create a tactile experience. One glance at the show and it becomes clear Kamras is seeking satisfaction beyond the whims of Instagram trends, she’s searching for enduring wardrobe staples.

In the case of Kamras, staples doesn’t mean minimalism. At Stand a snakeskin peacoat or a geometric-print yellow faux fur coat is as relevant as, say, a manila-hued shirt or black leather trousers. In parts, the use of leather was a tad excessive for the summer season, especially for the customer who experiences a sweltering June, July or August. And as an increasing number of major designers move away from the use of fur, the ethical issues around fabric choices may yet prove a challenge for the brand.

Stand | Photo: Mathias Nordgren

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The Power Of Three: Dagmar

28.01.2013 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Some say creativity and ambition is a genetic trait – something powerfully instinctive that lies deep within the veins. This perhaps could be the reason why three sisters from Sweden decided to combine their talents, experience and specialties to create their own sibling success story. Sofia Wallenstam, Kristina Tjäder and Karin Söderlind launched their fashion label, Dagmar, back in 2005 after developing three very impressive careers of their own within three very separate areas of the fashion industry: design, retail and PR.

Since then, Dagmar and its three founders have continued to find success both in Sweden and overseas, picking up numerous awards and achievements along the way.

Tomorrow the ladies will be showcasing their latest collection at Mercedes-Benz Stockholm Fashion Week. Twin spoke to Karin, the label’s Head of Marketing and PR, ahead of the show…

 

You launched Dagmar over 7 years ago – how have things developed since then? What have been the highlights throughout this time?

There have been so many highlights! Every year has been overwhelming, however some of our awards have been the biggest highlights to date; we were awarded with the NewGen Fresh Faces New York in 2007, New designer of the Year by Swedish Elle magazine in 2006 and won Guldknappen in 2011 – Scandinavia’s most prestigious design award. But just to be able to grow and hire people has been a milestone for us. It’s always a great moment when more people join the team every year.

 

Does working as a family business make it easier or harder? Obviously you all have each other for support but are there times when sisterly squabbling gets in the way?

Honestly there are some times when it does get a bit like ‘this is something that I would never say to any other employee’, but we try hard to work things out when it gets in our way.

 

Do you all have your own individual roles within the business?

Yes, from the start we split the responsibility between us. Sofia Wallenstam is Head of Sales, Kristina Tjäder is Head of Design and I, Karin Söderlind, am Head of Marketing & Pr.

 

Describe your signature aesthetic in just 3 words.

Unconventional & sophisticated (even better, I could do it in only two!).

 

Opening today is Mercedes-Benz Stockholm Fashion Week, where you will be showcasing your AW’13 collection. What’s the inspiration/ concept behind it?

There was a huge Renaissance influence taking over us and so you can detect some of that within the collection. We put a lot of focus on jackets and coats this time with knitted furs, strict wool capes and coats with interesting cuts.

 

Dagmar is named after your late Grandmother who you’ve stated as being your muse at the beginning. Are there any other inspirational women who influence your work?

We are always inspired by strong women for our collections but not any particular one this season… well maybe Mona Lisa!

 

Any big plans lined up for 2013?

A lot of things always seem to happen, planned or not! We have huge plans, but more for the long run than specifically for 2013. Short term we are opening a big shop within NK in Stockholm this February, plus we’d like to have more of a presence in London this year… let’s see how…

Dagmar Spring/Summer 2013

houseofdagmar.se

 

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