Oscar Ouyang SS27

CSM graduate Oscar Ouyang chose the sunlit upper floor of Rochelle, a former school in Shoreditch, to present a collection he described as one of “youthful romanticism”. Born in Beijing and based in London, Ouyang was thinking about the way we “assemble” our identities as we move from youth into adulthood. The collection captured that slightly awkward in between stage, when you are no longer a teenager, but not quite an adult either, raiding your parents’ wardrobes to get dressed for a night out.

There was a playful sense of nostalgia throughout. Tailoring looked perfectly proper from the front before opening unexpectedly at the back, polos were cut lower than expected and running shorts puffed out into exaggerated silhouettes. It felt youthful without being overly sweet, capturing that strange and fun period of figuring out who you want to be.

Simone Rocha SS27

For SS27, Simone Rocha took over the Old Bailey with a collection inspired by the 1990 rediscovery of Caravaggio’s long lost The Taking of Christ, which had been hanging, misattributed, in a Dublin Jesuit house for more than 50 years.

Hand worked roses appeared across velvet and leather, while everyday pieces were elevated with more precious garments deliberately knocked out of shape. Silk organza slips hung loosely from the body, with twisted fabrics and imperfect silhouettes giving the collection a distinctly “touched” feel. This collection definitely found beauty in unexpected places.

Mulberry SS27

Mulberry’s SS27 collection marked a new chapter for Scottish designer Christopher Kane, who has taken over as creative director of the British heritage brand. Kane closed his own London label in 2023, making his return to runway much anticipated by the fashion world.

The collection leaned into clean lines, sharp edges and plenty of laser cut leather. Accessories played a major role too, with pared back, monochromatic looks allowing the bags to really take centre stage. There was something particularly satisfying about the contrast between the sharper, sculptural pieces and the softer movement of the collection. SS27 feels like a fresh start for Mulberry, and we’re excited to see where Kane takes the brand next.

Chopova Lowena SS27

Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena are known for their riotous runway shows, often pairing playful sets with a cast that feels like a reflection of their own eclectic community. This season was no different, with even ex Sessions Arts Club chef Nil Mutluer making an appearance on the runway.

The collection leaned into a world of otherworldly characters, drawing on Slavic folklore alongside nymphs, water spirits, ghouls and vampires.

As ever, there was plenty of humour woven into the clothes. T-shirts featured pigeons, horses and slogans like “Help Me Chop Ova Lowena”, alongside illustrations of three knife wielding schoolgirls. It was chaotic, playful and unmistakably Chopova Lowena, exactly the kind of joyful weirdness that makes the brand such a highlight of London Fashion Week.