The world waited unabashedly for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first Haute Couture collection for Dior, and it did not disappoint. Drawing inspiration from the motif of the labyrinth, the collection embodied Chiuri’s journey to the heart of Dior’s design story.
It was a collection alive with nature: woodland flowers, moss and ferns made up the set and informed the collection in equal measure, inspired by Christian Dior’s statement that: “After women, flowers are the most divine of creations. They are so delicate and charming, but they must be used carefully.”
Silhouettes referenced the original founder of the house too, with cinched waists imbuing ethereal lace dresses and mysterious midnight velvet gowns with an easy elegance. Powder pinks and blues were married with inky blacks, allowing for the full spectrum of characters to be imagined and rendered in Chiuri’s magnificent modern fairy tale.
The Whitechapel Gallery plays host to a seminal new exhibition about the female form, bringing together exhibits from the National Museum of Women in the Arts of seventeen artists. The exhibition depicts women in constructed and natural environments through a range of photography and film. Through this examination of the female body, audiences are invited to join in scrutinising and empathising with new narratives around women; seeing the flux and mysteries of gender in new light.
The exhibition continues a conversation started by the late Franca Sozzani last year, that of subverting the idea of the gaze, and inviting a radical approach to the female perspective, both creator and subject. With work from artists including Marina Abramović, Rineke Dijkstra, Anna Gaskell, Nan Goldin, Charlotte Gyllenhammar, Justine Kurland, Nikki S. Lee and Hellen van Meene, audiences can again expect to be challenged and engaged – a must see exhibition in London this winter.
Marina Abramovic, The Hero, 2001.
Daniela Rossell, Medusa, 1999.
Nikki S. Lee, The Hip Hop Project, 2001
Nan Goldin, Self-Portrait in Kimono with Brian, NYC, 1983.
Terrains of the Body:Photography from the National Museum of Women in the Arts runs 18 January – 16 April 2017 at the Whitechapel Gallery.
Paris based, Swedish artist Linus Ricard uses film and photography to capture and explore the relationship between the human body and the space it occupies. By focussing on the ordinary, unseen moments of the everyday, Ricard invites audiences to re-examine their surroundings and their position within the environment. Twin caught up with Linus to find out more.
How did you get into photography?
Studying styling at the Marangoni in Milan I collaborated with photographers and quickly realised I wanted to hold the camera.I still loved the clothes but the magic and interaction with the subject was stronger.
Your photographs & films are pre-occupied with movement – what is it about motion that interests you?
Motion creates emotion. My first, unanswered, teenage love was with a dancer. I used to go watch all her performances. She completely rejected me but my love for dance and movement stayed.
What’s your process when you’re working?
I keep the subject moving, I love to catch that in-between moment, that you can never pose or control.
Do you have a favourite photograph, that you’ve taken?
No, it tends to be more and more about the process than the result, enjoying the moment and the making.
What are your influences?
Anything. At the moment I’m into going for long walks, I find it very inspiring and zen. I think Kierkegaard was onto something – “If one just keeps on walking, everything will be all right.”
Mesmerising and inspiring, FKA Twigs has long been a Twin idol thanks to her surreal, boundary breaking style and extensive, highly vibey musical talent. This month, the singer has teamed up with Nike as creative director for their new Nike Zonal strength tights.
This recent collaboration invites a new appreciation of sportswear, and FKA Twigs has used the campaign to delve into ideas around the power of modern movement, using the new items as a means to consider wider societal issues – while also creating a seriously beautiful new advertising campaign. With full creative control, from original concept to casting, through to the finished product, FKA Twigs asks viewers to see sports as a means of self expression, a more empowering way to embrace new year resolutions. As to the collection itself, expect a palette of maroons, earthy greens, rich blacks and a collection of crop tops you’ll want to wear every day.
Of the campaign Twigs said: “People don’t always see dancers as athletes, but we are. Through dance, I’ve met young people who work really hard and have dedicated their lives to being active. To me they represent “modern movement,” which I define as exploring any genre of sport without boundaries. As a dancer, I try to embrace my fragility and accept that where I’m at is good enough. Dancers are taught to always look in the mirror, from an early age, to make sure we have perfect alignment. There comes a point when you just have to let go and trust that you’re going to get where you need to be. Overall, dance makes you realize that there’s beauty in the imperfections. I think that’s what can make it most intriguing for people to watch.”
Ganor Dominic is the shoe world’s new rising star, known for appealing tothose that have a “penchant for the experimental”. Designs include two-way sequin boots and exaggerated gripped brogues, and with the likes of Carine Roitfeld and Lady Gaga already amongst her fans, you can expect to see much more of the designer this year. Twin gets the lowdown.
What is your first memory of footwear?
It was my grandmother’s collection of vintage heels from 60’s. Every time I visited her, me and my sister would go to the shoe drawer and try everything on.
Describe your aesthetic.
Sculptural, minimal with the emphasis on the 3D elements. I also like multifunctional things and try to implement this in my designs by adding removable details or material that changes colour.
Who do you design for?
What connects all Ganor Dominic customers is passion for avant-garde unusual objects, they love art and what to stand out from the crowd.
Where do you draw your inspiration?
Initially for the debut collection in was classical sculpture. Now I try to develop this theme and experiment with colour.
Do you have a signature style?
Yes, it’s Apollo pumps with 3D printed marble face under the sole.
What is your favourite pair of shoes of all time?
Ganor Dominic Chronos brogues: they come with three removable front panels, so you get 4 different shoes in 1.
Following on from a recent exhibition of photographs by Steven Miesel, LOEWE presents a collection of surrealist works by artist Ouka Leele.
Exhibited at Gran Via location in Madrid, the brand’s oldest store, the exhibition is a tribute to the surrealist Leele, who still to this day lives in the capital. In the 1980s Leele was a key figure associated with ‘Movida’, an explosion of countercultural energy that transcended film, music and painting.
‘Peluqueria’ (hairdresser) which consists of 19 images are now on display at the lower level of LOEWE Gran Via, sees the imagery juxtaposed against the matte black walls with stark spot lighting. The iconic shots have also been printed onto accessories, also available to purchase online.
Hairdresser: 11th January 2017 – 26th February 2017.
Gorgeously composed, Willy Vanderperre captures the essence of Jil Sander‘s design aesthetic in their new SS17 advertising campaign. Featuring a cast of Natalie Westling and Tillmann, the photographs are perfect style inspiration for the new year.
Founded by life-long friends Angelina and Julia the RTW brand, The Nude London exudes a whimsical femininity with a collection that consists of feather-light chiffon dresses, printed blouses and sharp tailoring. We catch up with the friends-come-business partners to chat about launching a new label and the power of female friendship.
Tell us how you first started?
We have known each other since childhood and have always been inspired by femininity and beautiful dresses. Each one of us has lived all over the world: Tokyo, London, Paris, Moscow and have drawn inspiration from there. Eventually, we wanted to create that effortlessly cool feminine look with our brand.
How would you describe your aesthetic?
Very girly and elegant with a sexy twist.
Where do you get your inspiration from?
Travelling and the amazing inspiring women we meet along the way.
Is there anyone you have in mind when designing?
Our heroine is the modern day woman who is not afraid to express herself, she loves being a woman and dressing in a feminine way.
Who would you love to dress?
Vanessa Paradis and Lily-Rose Depp.
Which is your favourite piece, or pieces, from the collection?
We particularly love the Queen Mary dress, but this season we also branched out into outerwear and the coats are just so cool and comfortable!
Calling all wanderlusters, the leather experts at PRITCH have now launched their latest line, PRITCH Adventures. The new range offers luxe travel wear, consisting of oversized sweatshirts and classic track pants in a colour palette of black, white, olive, baby blue, sapphire blue and deep red. Like the RTW PRITCH London range, this line has thoughtful detailing, which sees the finest leather combined with super-cosy jersey that is perfect for your winter getaways. Perfect for glam, post-holiday lounging.
Tell us about your background.
I was born in Moscow and raised in between Saint Petersburg, Germany, Malta and United Kingdom. At the age of 5 I started drawing and by the age of 7 I started to do fashion sketches. By the age of 14 I figured that I want to start my own fashion brand. Since then I never looked back.
You specialise in leather, what is it about this material that you love?
I feel like leather is underestimated as a material. Not enough is done, possibilities are endless. It is also a very challenging material to work with, that requires attention to detail. You only have one chance with it, as you can not stitch it twice.
How would you describe your brand aesthetic?
Embodying today’s duality between elegance and edge. PRITCH London’s distinctive signature is transformation and the art of combining various leathers and luxurious textures in one piece. Each PRITCH London garment is designed with multi-functionality and transformation in mind, easily layered or transformed with removable elements. Inspiration behind is contrasts and edges.
Do you have a favourite piece from the collection?
I am in love with the Hybrid Bomber from our current AW16 collection for a casual day out or a fancy evening with friends. And my from now on “must travel in” piece is the “Jet-setter travel set” from our newest “Pritch Adventures” travel wear line.
You have launched PRITCH Adventures, what inspired this?
My constant adventures around the world, passion for travelling and lack of comfortable and sophisticated pieces to wear while I travel.
What do you have coming up for 2017?
I’m not even sure where to start. I have collaborations with well-known and up and coming artists, new partnerships, a mens capsule collection, kids travel wear and so much more!
REEK is a new feminist perfume brand from created in collaboration with perfumer Sarah McCartney. Designed to make a stand through everyday rebellion, REEK is about empowering women through the commemoration of fierce feminists that have come before. Using the unifying and transcendent power of scent, this is a fresh and exciting take on engendering a conversation around women’s rights and identity. Twin caught up with Bethany Grace to talk badass bitches and what makes REEK smell so good.
How did Reek come about?
In our culture, we don’t memorialise our amazing women, and that means female role models are lost. In the UK only 15% of statues are raised to women, and most of those are to Queen Victoria. So we started thinking of ways we could change that. Scent is so evocative, it’s also a great means of rebellion. No one needs to know you’re wearing a scent that stands for something, unless you tell them.
Who are the women that you were inspired by when creating the perfume?
DAMN REBEL BITCHES was named after 18th century Jacobite women, as badass political activists and dissidents they were the right inspiration for our first scent. The Duke of Cumberland called them Damn Rebel Bitches because they wouldn’t give up on their cause. They were fearless. Jacobean Lady Nithsdale broke her husband out of the Tower of London in 1716 by dressing him in drag. There is no statue of her.
Scent is so individual, what ingredients did you feel embodied a universal sense of heroism, and why?
We work collaboratively with perfumer Sarah McCartney. The scents we picked all pay homage to the women of the 18th century. Blood orange peel was used as a deodorant, clary sage as a herb in women’s medicine and pink peppercorn was the most expensive thing you might have in your kitchen at the time, if you were lucky. Though perhaps not a universal representation of heroism, these are scents that speak to the real lives of powerful women – women stood up for what they believed in.
What kind of things did you look at to develop the scent – were there any fragrances of the past that inspired you?
It’s not necessarily scents from the past that inspire us but the female pioneers in perfume from history. The first prominent female perfumer was Germaine Cellier who broke into the industry through sheer determination in the mid-20th century. There was no question that we wanted to work with a female perfumer to combat the sexism in the industry even now.
How do you know when a perfume is finished, what are you looking for?
I suppose we just close our eyes, sniff and rely on our noses. For REEK it is more than just creating the right scent, it’s creating a present-day memorial. We’re currently developing a new fragrance for next year to commemorate a different set of women. Researching and coming to understand who that woman is takes a lot of work.
How do you see scent as a medium for commenting on the role of women today?
As an everyday rebellion. We still have so much to fight for, and we can’t go forward without looking back. So our first scent is about the strong women we admire, whose stories aren’t widely known, and who shouldn’t be forgotten. At REEK we believe that we need role models in order to be role models. Our campaign features women of a variety of ages and sizes, all un-retouched beautiful bitches. No retouching isn’t a revolutionary concept within the industry but we wanted to reiterate how important it is to combine no retouching with diversity – of race, of size, of age. We could have just taken photos of the perfume and it’s ingredients, avoiding any direct representation of women, but having this medium available to us we took a stand, as we emblazon on our website and t-shirts ‘BITCHES UNITE’.
What do you hope to achieve with the brand going forward?
More perfumes. More amazing women to memorialise. More feminist campaigns. More rebellion.
Having taken over YSL from Hedi Slimane this year, Anthony Vaccarello used his first collection to offer a re-interpretation of the language of the house. The monogram earring, a signature accessory of Spring/Summer 2017, is designed to be deconstructed and put back together again – the perfect emblem of a new creative voice in the house.
The imitable Chloë Sevigny fronts the new J.W.Anderson‘s SS17 campaign, and it couldn’t be a better fit. Sevigny’s nonchalant cool was captured by photographer Jamie Hawkesworth, appearing alongside images in which Anderson’s clothes are juxtaposed with the natural world.
Known for his hybridism, the look book speaks from core influences of J.W.Anderson’s design– ideas of change and transience in this technological age. Hawkesworth‘s images capture these ideas of movement, contrasting a pensive Sevigny in domestic environments to the free-flowing clothes outdoors and aligning colours to create a sense of energy and depth.
If Chloë Sevigny wasn’t your style crush before, she probably should be now.
Make your 2017 pop with these bright, bold handbags from Marco de Vincenzo. With an emphasis on shape and bright colour, the new collection is fun, playful and oh-so-desirable. Designed in the shape of a paw, the design sees tapered techno padding, hand-dyed edges and specially-made hardware combining for a punchy, power accessory.
Available in a range of colour ways, the Griffe bag will quite feasibly seduce you into investing in a few because hey, who could possibly choose between a yellow, cobalt blue, metallic lime or dusty pink calfskin creation?
Twin contributor Lena C. Emery’s new monograph Rie 理絵 (pr. Rhea) is a product of an continuing exploration of how women are intimately depicted. Rie, both the title and main subject of the book, literally means ‘truth’, a theme that permeates each image. The book depicts Emery’s poetic renderings of women who repeatedly pose, rest and move while in various states of dress – and undress. Playing with ideas of the female gaze, the women in the photographers are both aware and vulnerable; tangible and mysterious. Of the new launch, Emery explained:
“Within Rie 理絵 I wanted to embark on an inherently female dialogue on the subject of revealing. I was interested in understanding at what point when we reveal our bodies as women to a potential other, does the apparent vulnerability cross over into the appreciation of the powerful notion of being naked and being oneself without an inner or outer surveyor present, without being on display. Watching Rie and the other nine women that I photographed, all of which were strangers to me and each other at the time and who had never been photographed in this way before, come to life as they slowly shed each layer of artifice, felt incredibly reassuring.”
Published by Kominek, Rie 理絵 is available from 16th December and can be bought here.
When it launched in 1995, the Lady Dior bag was created to reflect the contemporary nature of the house, embodying a modern identity while continuing to communicate the refined femininity for which the brand is famed. 11 years later, the architectural silhouette has become a canvas for seven of the most exciting artists working today.
This art project was first launched with British artist Marc Quinn who designed a limited edition collection in June. At Miami Art Basel collaborations with Daniel Gordon, Chris Martin, Ian Davenport, Matt Collishaw, Jason Martin and Matthew Porter were also launched. As is to be expected, each collaboration is unique, reflecting the creative inclinations of the artist. The result is a beautiful, and varied collection of Lady Dior bags that will make you fall in love with this classic design all over again.
Available at international stockists across the globe, these new collaborations give a whole new meaning to the phrase arm candy.
Meet the latest offering from the Chaos crew: personalisable iPhone cases. Having designed those custom made luxe silk tracksuit bottoms for Cara Delevinge and Margot Robbie, Chaos have nailed personalisation and haven’t looked back.
Founded by fashion editors and stylists Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall, the brand’s line of phone accessories ranges from cases to alphabet charms, emblazoned with statement slogans, to graphic motifs (we love the pills) and initials.
Available from their site: shop.chaos.club, as well as Dover Street Market, Selfridges and matchesfashion.com. Order before the 15th December to receive in time for Christmas.
To commemorate the Fashion Awards 2016, photographer Nick Knight has released two new fashion films that reflect on contemporary fashion today. Featuring Molly Goddard, Nasir Mazhar, Hood By Air, Givenchy and Balenciaga, Up and 90210 were edited by SHOWstudio’s Raquel Couceiro, and explore tensions between strength and delicacy and intimacy and discordance. With a soundtrack by rapper Travis Scott, this pair of films celebrate the creative spirit that Knight consistently promotes through his work.
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