Antonio Marras SS19: The Fault of The Mistral

26.09.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Italian designer Antonio Marras dug deep into the unexpected for the inspiration behind his Spring Summer 2019 collection title The Fault of The Mistral.  Arriving to the show a few minutes early, the first familiar attribute was the sound of Nina Simone’s music playing from the outside as the models capped their final rehearsal. As the curtains opened and the audience was let in, what was to be discovered was a series of door jams aligned along the runway with sacks tied atop each one. This show was slightly different from all the others, it carried a message that came across as personal. Marras’ stimuli behind the collection was based on his wife’s recollection of an Ethiopian princess she once met. Princess Romanework, eldest daughter of Emperor Haile Selassie of Ethiopia who was captured during the battle against the Italian army and forced to live on the exile island of Asinara.

The collection embodied a tropical woman dressed in shades of military green gowns, coats and sweaters. Flashes of floral prints, white, beige and lace appear throughout intervals. This was not just clothing being presented at a show, this was a story being told, some models wore headpieces which mimicked flower wreaths and at the end of the show there was a performance. An emotional bevy of men in underwear with shoes tied around their necks, rushing together to salute one another and then ripping the sacks tied atop the door jams, where a flow of sand emptied upon them. This was not just a show, it was a carefully orchestrated re-enactment of poetry. The only note to be taken is that since this was a story of an Ethiopian princess, it would have been ideal for the casting to better reflect that. If making an ode to Ethiopian princesses, go all out, hairstyling and everything. However the designer is definitely one to keep an eye on as he is one who chooses to go a little bit of an extra mile further.

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N21’s Anti Streetwear

20.06.2018 | Fashion | BY:

For his SS19 collection, N.21 designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua,  opted to turn his head away from the fast-selling streetwear direction of the industry and focus on a more sensual side of the brand.

“I’m over streetwear and sportswear at the moment. I started from a desire for light and warmth, to rediscover the body’s natural physicality.” 

Sneakers were thrown in for socks and sandals, t-shirts for button ups. There were also raincoats, the brands signature photo inserted shirts, nylon pouch bags and totes. 

The collection had a familiar simplicity accompanied by a whiff of femininity which made you want to ask for more. It was a celebration of the sensual man. Was this the brand’s official proclamation towards a more permanent  formal aesthetic? And if so, will he then give up the shorts for tailored trousers next season?

Whatever direction chosen the brand should look to exaggerate their inspiration. At times their signature simplicity might be mistaken for indolence and repetition. 

N.21 SS19 | Jordan Anderson for Twin magazine

N.21 SS19 | Jordan Anderson for Twin magazine

N.21 SS19 | Jordan Anderson for Twin magazine

N.21 SS19 | Jordan Anderson for Twin magazine

N.21 SS19 | Jordan Anderson for Twin magazine

N.21 SS19 | Jordan Anderson for Twin magazine

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