This week marks the launch of Iain R. Webb’s new book As Seen in BLITZ: Fashioning ’80s Style. The ICA is celebrating the event with a series of talks and film screenings.
Webb’s monograph focuses on the lasting influence of the style and culture bible, which emerged amongst the new wave of independent publications in London during the early 1980s like i-D and The Face.
In a world of New Romantics, a hedonistic nightlife and post-punk fashion, BLITZ explored ideas of transformation, beauty, glamour and sex through its imagery and featured legendary contributors such as Leigh Bowery, Nick Knight, Bodymap, Katharine Hamnett, Vivienne Westwood and Andrew Logan.
Relive the best of the 80s this weekend by checking out the publication and visiting the ICA.
Last night the new Versus Versace was launched in New York with an unconventional fashion show. Creative Director Donatella Versace and J.W. Anderson were visible from backstage where they prepared the models, while live performances from Angel Haze, Dead Sara, as well as Twin favourite, Grimes, intercut the runway. The whole event was interactive, streamed live, uploaded to Instagram.
Donatella Versace commented that the event was about bringing together everything she loves. “This mix of music and fashion captures the essence of Versus Versace, a label for a new global tribe,” she says. The collection itself plays with the original Versace DNA, reworking it into new pieces with sharp silhouettes and iconic motifs. With collaborations and limited edition pieces, Donatella Versace hopes to make this a new home for fresh talent and creativity.
J.W. Anderson is just one of the first guest designers who will, in turn, show us their take on the Versus Versace spirit. “The idea behind the collection was about a modern, sharp, Versus Versace, with a focus on the shared wardrobe,” says Anderson, “a man in a woman’s wardrobe, and a woman in a man’s”. The result is pieces that toy with gender and sexuality, pieces that should be worn with an attitude of fearlessness. The capsule collection will be available online from June 15, in addition to exclusive behind the scenes footage of the making of the collection.
Central Saint Martins boasts a reputation as one of the world’s most prestigious art schools. Now a group of its students have launched a biannual print publication celebrating the university’s exceptional talents, entitled 1Granary.
Founded and edited by Olya Kuryshchuk, the debut issue features alumni such as Katie Grand, Robin Derrick, Kate Phelan and John Galliano, as well as the most exciting new talent currently studying at CSM’s King’s Cross campus.
Twin spoke to associate editor Greg French about the magazine’s inception, vision and future. Read on for the exclusive interview…
Central Saint Martins has had a longstanding reputation and legacy. In the age of digital publishing and university spending cuts, what made it important to do this magazine now?
I think it’s incredibly important to be able to find a sense of permanent presence alongside digital publishing. There seems to be a constant conflict between digital and print, yet there needs to be more of an understanding that both can support and be used alongside each other to push concepts further than previously possible. It seemed important as it’s a new beginning for the college in its new premises. We really wanted something physical to sit alongside our site, as a milestone for this great turning point in the college’s history.
What ethos lies at the heart of 1 Granary?
At the heart of magazine are unity and hard work, not only in terms of the amount of work that we put into establishing 1 Granary, but also in the level of craftsmanship that is put into each garment, artwork and editorial content that we show. It’s about showcasing all the amazing talent and saying that it is possible and achievable, regardless of what is or isn’t happening in the education system or the economy.
How would you describe the process of putting together the debut issue, were there any surprises or directional changes?
It was actually really liberating. I’ve worked on magazines before, but this was the first thing that wasn’t bound to anything. We didn’t answer to anyone and that gave us a platform to experiment, try new things and do it completely in the way that we wanted. We have an amazing team and had so much fun putting it all together. It was exhausting at times as we were all juggling internships, jobs and college work, but at the same time it was our way of resting because we loved doing it so much.
What can we expect for Issue No. 2?
It’s still very much in its early stages, but the main thing you can expect is a continuing debut of really great, fresh, raw talent and a team that isn’t afraid to take risks.
1 Granary Issue #1 is available to pre-order here and hits newstands on May 20.
Downsizing is difficult, whichever area of your life you target – this spring, focus on your bag contents. Miniature hand-held accessories are a key trend this season. Perfect for those credit-card-and-lipstick-kind-of-nights. Take a look at Twin’s picks…
Charlotte Olympia Pandora Perspex clutch, £625, net-a-porter.com & Proenza Schouler PS11 Mini Metallic Hologram Leather Bag, £890, brownsfashion.com
Fleet Ilya Women’s Diamond Clutch, £567, ln-cc.com & Sophie Hulme Leather And Brass Box Clutch, £270, my-wardrobe.com
Somerset House has just announced its latest exhibition in honour of the late fashion and art champion Isabella Blow. The woman who helped launch designers such as Alexander McQueen will be honoured in the retrospective Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore!
The exhibition will showcase over a hundred pieces from Blow’s personal wardrobe, famously saved from being auctioned off by her close friend Daphne Guinness, who purchased the art patron’s entire collection. Expect to see work from designers such as McQueen, Philip Treacy, Hussein Chalayan and Julien Macdonald.
Set designer Shona Heath will be creating installations for the show, which not only offers an opportunity to view extraordinary fashion pieces up close, but also to discover the life of the woman who wore them.
Isabella Blow: Fashion Galore! will run from 20 November to 2 March at Somerset House.
Karl Lagerfeld’s latest directorial endeavour stars Keira Knightley in the role of Coco Chanel.
Once Upon A Time, also starring Lindsey Wixson, Stella Tennant and Tallulah Harlech, traces back to the opening of Chanel’s first store in Deauville in 1913.
Revel in black and white film nostalgia and period costumes by watching the film below.
chanel.com
The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s latest exhibition devotes itself to the last true subculture: the safety-pinned, in-your-face-spitting world of punk.
Tracing the subculture’s path from underground youth movement to haute couture influence, the exhibition features designers including Vivienne Westwood, Karl Lagerfeld and Riccardo Tisci, as well as music icons such as Johnny Rotten, Sid Vicious and The Clash.
Take a tour of the exhibition with the show’s curator Andrew Bolton in the video below.
Punk: Chaos to Couture is on display from May 9 to August 14.
Since taking over the house in 2009, Guillame Henry has revived the house of Carven with his contemporary and feminine designs. Now the revival is continuing with the brand’s fragrance line.
The creator behind the debut scent Carven Le Parfum is industry wünderkind Francis Kurkdjian, the man who created Jean Paul Gaultier’s besteller Le Male at age 26. Kurkdjian’s creation is an appropriately floral and delicate combination of mandarin blossom, sweet pea, jasmine and sandal wood.
Fragrance is the finishing touch to any outfit and this ethereal scent is sure to become the go-to accessory for any Carven girl.
Carven Le Parfum is available to buy now exclusively at Harrods and Harrods.com, with a national release set for June 5.
Shorts are the perfect way to announce your summertime feeling. Denim may be the ultimate classic, but this season its time to make a change. Whilst leather and latex might not be obvious choices, they certainly keep you up to date. Gym inspired short-shorts may be the style of the season, but they look much better walking around town than in the bottom of your gym bag. Take a look at Twin’s picks…
Identifying a comfortable and trendy dog cloth is turning out to be difficult, as more and more cute dog clothes are venturing in the global market on regular basis.
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