Growing up in Minsk, now Belarus, before moving to the United States and later France, Alexandra Catiere learned early on to immerse herself in a universe of her own. This is a skill Catiere has taken with her into her photography, where she documents intimate moments that all make a passing comment on the transient nature of time and the ephemerality of life.
Through her distinct visual language and exploration of both sensation and atmosphere, she manages to avoid the cliches of naked young people shot with flash on a 35mm point and shoot camera. Instead, her inspiration and style aligns itself more closely to that of the legendary Irving Penn, who she worked alongside in 2005 shortly after graduating from the International Centre of Photography (ICP). Her works are in the same nature of Penn’s—classical black and white images, begging the audience to study the world in which they are taken without a preconceived notion of context.
A new exhibition – Photo London – which has just opened in London at Somerset House, explores Catiere’s work in the form of a three-part series: ‘Here, Beyond the Mists’, ‘Land without Shadows’, and ‘Nobody Believes That I Am Alive’. The exhibition deals with themes such as time, realisation, life and death in a way that underscores Catiere’s own belief system “that death does not and can not truly exist, while memory still remains”.
When asked to describe the photographers work Nathalie Herschdorfer, the curator of this exhibition says: “Catiere’s photography is of an intimate and independent nature. It deals with the passing of time, outside of the narrative realisation. Time stands still. The beings and places that she depicts seem to come from a distant past but nonetheless seem to be anchored in the present. Catiere’s photographs enthral us, they seduce us and call us into question.”
The exhibition is on now, and runs until 22nd May 2016 at Somerset House, London, Booth F7.
Open now and running until the end of June, acclaimed British artist, Antony Micallef is exhibiting his debut solo Hong Kong show, ‘Raw Intent’ at the prestigious Pearl Lam Gallery in Hong Kong.
Recognised by the art world, Micallef, who draws inspiration from the old masters has been called “this generations Francis Bacon” by Sotheby’s. This is evident through his latest evocative series of work, ‘Raw Intent’ which focuses on the movement of paint, and explores its relationship between the artist, the brush and the canvas.
“Raw Intent is a body of work that uses the mechanics of paint to unearth and excavate emotion using myself as a vehicle. I want the medium to evoke something visceral and emotive without illustrating it. The figures are distorted, pushed and pulled until they start to ‘breathe’ on their own. The object of the work is to instill and convey a sense of energy and life. Emotions are projected onto and tested on these found figures, and the form is stretched to its limit, like subjects in a science lab. I’m interested in that space where the figure almost disintegrates but somehow stays intact, leaving a sense of friction and raw distortion. The medium is celebrated and used in full force in many different ways with many different tools to render life that echoes traces of our emotional field.” – Antony Micallef
The exhibition is on now, and runs until 30th June 2016 at Pearl Lam Galleries, 601 – 605 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Hong Kong.
This summer, New York-based artist Grear Patterson is presenting an exhibition at London’s Marlborough Contemporary which is centred around something that is often thought of as an ever-deteriorating concept: true romance. With Tony Scott’s seminal film of the same name serving as the catalyst as well as the title, he has produced a series of mixed-media works that both encapsulate and explore the theme.
Utilising the “visceral vernacular of the sunset as an auspicious moment – simultaneously a romanticised ending and yet a promise of new beginnings” – each piece is a study in pop-culture, imagery and processes of perception, all of which have become recurrent motifs in Patterson’s work over the years.
Grear Patterson, Blue Bronx (2010), c-print, 13 x 20, Courtesy the artist and Marlborough Contemporary, London
The symbolism of the sunset is explored both literally and figuratively elsewhere in the show – with banana trees and hammocks physically present within the gallery – further adding to the stereotypical idea of a tropical sunset, especially as is so commonly seen through the millennial lens of social media.
A plethora of found materials – from parachutes, wedding tablecloths, boat sails and vinyl – make up the large scale sunsets, while smaller works are comprised of block colour paper works in purples, pinks, blues, oranges and greens become a “memorialisation of youthful possibility, oddesey and adventure”.
Grear Patterson, Odyssey (2008), Photograph, Courtesy the artist and Marlborough Contemporary, London
Grear Patterson, Quiet Corner (2010), Courtesy the artist and Marlborough Contemporary, London
Grear Patterson, Moonrise (2016), Photograph, Courtesy the artist and Marlborough Contemporary, London
Main image: Grear Patterson, Beachstrollers, (2008), Photograph, Courtesy the artist and Marlborough Contemporary, London
Grear Patterson, True Romance, Marlborough Contemporary, 24 June – 23 July 2016.
His subject is one that has been much documented across the arts, but photographer Mark Steinmetz lends a unique eye to the chronicles of contemporary American life. Whether capturing everyday happenings within a Cleveland school or the natural environment of Sandy Creek, the photographer’s ability to imbue images with unforced narrative consistently delights.
This capacity to scrutinise the idiosyncrasies of daily life whilst remaining aloof from the frame allows Mark Steinmetz’s photographs to both transcend and embody their moments in time, rendering his images powerful historical documents as well as works of art. With a ninth monograph, Angel City West out on Nazraeli Press, we asked the photographer to lend insight into his work, inspiration and future projects.
When did you first start photographing?
I started very early on. My parents gave me my first camera around the age of six. I have many clear memories of photographing when I was a child. I remember that framing a scene was always a pleasure for me; I liked making the decision of whether I needed to stay standing up or whether I should scrunch down or move in closer in order to make the best picture. I had set up my first darkroom in my home at the age of 12.
Ancient Tigers, 2007
Can you talk a little about the Angel City West series as a whole – how did they come about, what camera were you working with and what were you looking for when taking these pictures?
I was 22 and restless. I had moved to Los Angeles after having left the Yale School of Art after my first semester. In LA, I met the great photographer Garry Winogrand and was able to photograph with him on several occasions. I used a Leica primarily but also dragged around with me a twin lens reflex. My impulse was just to make interesting pictures that were realistic but still had an independence from (and weren’t exactly responsible to) anything that might really be going on. I was exploring the fictional strangeness that’s intrinsic to photography when you extract an image from the flow of life and I was trying in my youthful way to match or supersede what photographers such as Winogrand or Robert Frank had done.
What is it about black and white that you’re drawn to?
Black and white is what I was looking at when I started to photograph and it’s the medium of the great masters I admire most. There’s a removal from the world with black and white; it strips away one of the levels of illusion from the world. It seems to concern itself more purely and strictly with structure and light. Colour photography needs to be primarily about colour, and to me it seems rare that it can be controlled in any coherent way since the relationships between the colours take over and can too easily overwhelm what’s really of interest and importance. But then again we see in colour and that’s what most everyone in photography has been up to lately.
Atlanta Airport, 2015
How important is a sense of place to your portraits of people?
I tend not to have less interest in photographs of people where they are placed against a neutral background. The subjects then seem like butterflies pinned in a collection. Richard Avedon’s group of portraits in the American West are strong but it makes little sense to me that he puts the people he’s photographing against a white backdrop instead of leaving the gas station or the road behind them as background. I much prefer placing subjects within a context. The scenes are less sterile that way and more convincing. That’s how life is.
You often photograph people in motion, or seemingly unaware. How did you develop this style?
I prefer photographs where it feels like something is happening or about to happen, where a moment is suggested. Walker Evans photographed people surreptitiously in his series of subway photographs for the reason that “the mask is down” when people don’t think anyone is watching them. I’ve always been a quiet person. I don’t make waves and I don’t startle people. Many of my portraits seem natural as if they are not aware of being photographed, but I’ve had to talk to them and gain their permission in order to position my fairly large camera exactly where I want it to be in order to make the picture I want.
Berlin, 2014
In general do you see the role of a photographer as a watcher as opposed to someone that is present in the picture?
Koudelka is a great photographer but in his book, The Gypsies, the subjects are looking at him and responding to his presence. It’s up to each photographer to define photography on his/her own terms. In my case, my mother was French and I’ve spent a lot of time in France where people sit in cafés a lot and people watch. That’s how I photograph for the most part. I don’t intervene.
The Angel City West series was taken in the ’80s, are you still interested in the city and the people when you look around at Los Angeles today?
Yes, very much so. I’d like to spend more time there to photograph. Los Angeles remains a very interesting and unique place. Like Paris, it is a terrain that has been explored a good deal in cinema, photography, and literature, so there’s an audience that already has an understanding of the place. That means you can plunge right in. You don’t have to start at zero to establish a context for your body of work as a context already exists.
Knoxville, 1991
I love your Sandy Creek series, did you find it challenging to capture the natural world in the same spontaneous way?
Thank you for loving the series. Like most people I need a break from time to time and photographing in nature allows me to unwind and to photograph without any of the stress of photographing in the cities. The trees don’t talk back to you. It’s a very different problem. I think nature has a lot to teach us and particularly anyone interested in the design fields needs to take a serious look at what nature has come up with. Robert Adams and Atget have been helpful to look at.
Generally speaking, what are your influences?
Anything in life can be an influence. Some things stick to you, some things don’t. In photography, Atget, Evans, and Winogrand are the great influences but there are so many.
What are your projects for 2016 / 2017?
Right now I’m working on a commission from the High Museum in Atlanta to photograph at the Atlanta airport – that will be a show in 2017. I’ve also been photographing in Europe a good deal and in particular in busy public areas in Paris, Berlin, and Milan. I should have a book on summer camps come out next year and possibly one later this year of unpublished photographs from the American South (no titles for the books yet).
Mehry Mu, the emerging accessories brand founded by Gunes Mutlu, produces the chicest pochettes according to your star sign. Handmade in Istanbul, the city and the vibrant ikat fabrics found in the hidden alleys of the Grand Bazaar prove to be Gunes’ inspiration for her collections.
The Universe collection, which consists of 12 velvet pochettes featuring gold and silver hand embroidery, represent each sign of the Zodiac. Available in a range of cosmic hues: from soft pink to powder blue, green and pale grey – all the colours and star sign details are determined by the Zodiac sign.
Tell us about the Universe collection…
The universe collection is a collection of 12 velvet embroidered clutch bags representing the 12 signs of the Zodiac. The pochettes have been designed and produced in neutral velvet tones and each style and colour is determined by that Zodiac sign’s group – earth, wind and fire etc. The universe design is really personal as the details are so specific to each Zodiac sign that they represent. All the pochettes are hand made in Istanbul and designed according to one simple rule – that they should make life easier whilst making you feel chic in an effortless way.
What’s your zodiac sign?
Sagittarius (featured main).
Where can we buy the collection?
The collection is available to buy from mehrymu.com, The Mehry Mu showroom in Istanbul, Debonnaire London and through several international boutiques including Bloomingdale’s-Dubai and Edit Lifestyle in Singapore.
Premium denim brand M.i.h are celebrating 10 years at the forefront of jean genius with a pop-up shop in London’s Soho. Situated on Upper James street, the store features everything from its beloved denim to homeware and fragrance – all imbued with M.i.h’s signature ‘blue-jean’ spirit.
For its 10th anniversary, the brand has launched a unique ‘cult denim’ project, which sees 10 cult items from its archives be re-released as a special capsule collection.
Featuring everything from the perfect ‘7os shirt dress, to the ‘Topanga’ cropped flares, and ‘Painters’ denim parka – it promises to provide the ultimate denim edit for any woman’s wardrobe.
While the full anniversary collection is available from the Soho pop-up shop, there are also accessories from the likes of Illesteva being sold alongside to help punctuate the looks on offer.
Open until the 23rd May; 7 Upper James Street, London, W1F 9DH.
Alice Waese is not your typical fine jewellery designer. Despite founding an eponymous cult jewellery line that ranges in price from £1,900 to £6,500 – she has received critical acclaim from numerous fashion magazines including Vogue and Interview and exhibited her work at Frieze London 2015 – Alice’s propulsion of fine jewellery leaves it’s mark by revelling in the subversion and whim of all-that-glitters-isn’t gold cocktail sparkle. Her unisex gold and silver pieces, which are hand crafted in limited editions of 90, are subjects of her diverse research stimuli: birds, trees, roots, skulls, rock formations and limbs.
“The glowing and vivid palette os my Spring Summer 2016 collection is based on a series of paintings I created, they explore the visual intensity and subsequent symbolism of various stones. Alchemists consider the emerald as a symbol of hope, wisdom and as a preservation of love. The ruby is believed to be the most powerful jewel, and is associated with passion, vitality and courage—I incorporate them all in this collection,” she said.
At 20, Alice Waese moved to New York, her current base, to intern for the jeweller Maria Cornejo and was later hired as a design assistant there. She then moved to London where she studied Fine Art at Goldsmith’s College before turning to jewellery full time. Alice describes her interest in fine jewellery as in fact a fascination with “artifacts and heirlooms, the weight of an object with intrinsic value. I consider what happens to an item that is loved, given away, passed on and worn daily. I am inspired also by the materials themselves, the transformation from wax to gold is something really satisfying both on an aesthetic level and a tactile, physical level. I also work from my drawings, an internal world of fantasy and narrative”.
Drawing from life is the basis of Alice’s work, as she truly believes that knowing the dimensions and details of objects and space are key to later constructing something fine and precious out of that which was once mundane. In conjunction with research of the fine jewellery field, Alice eagerly sketches and has published her surrealist watercolour drawings in a series of hand printed hardbound books, each containing a single piece of jewellery hidden in the cutout.
For Spring Summer 2016, Alice Waese’s launches a fine jewellery and ready-to-wear collection that is available exclusively at Hostem.
Why footwear giant Dr. Martens teamed up with Norse Projects
While in the first instance the idea of a non-conformist British punk institution aligning forces with a Scandi-infused, purist brand may seem a jarring fit, the new collaboration between Dr. Martens and Norse Projects actually makes total sense. Together, their designs participate as part of a wider conversation, one that draws without end, on the study of contemporary culture and shows an avid interest that often oscillates between both modern and sub-cultural references.
The re-worked version of the Dr. Martens 3-Eye Steed is no exception. The mens shoes has been crafted for the first time in a rich suede texture, that comes in three colour ways (black, white and oxblood). It is also detailed with quiet sportswear technicalities—the added insole, the padded tongue and elasticated nylon straps, are all quite clearly traits of practicality brought forward by Dr. Martens Copenhagen-based counterpart, Norse Projects.
Staying true to heritage is a mantra that remains close to everything Dr. Martens does and this collaboration does not waver from that. Like the rest of the Steed collection, the 3-Eyed Steed has been manufactured using the original process of industrial manufacture, a technique that has been in practice from 1st April, 1960—when the first pair of Dr. Martens rolled off the production line in Wollaston, England.
The Dr. Martens x Norse Projects Steed collaboration (from £200) is available online now and in-store at END, Newcastle from May 7th.
If you head to Peckham’s Bussey Building and Stratford’s Roof East you’ll sure be in for a treat. Open now and running throughout the summer, the Rooftop Film Club and the Spirited Mixers will be keeping us entertained during the warmer months, all whilst taking in the panoramic views of London.
The Rooftop Film Club will be showing a mix of new and cult classic movies from Purple Rain to The Danish Girl and cocktails are courtesy of mixology masters, the Spirited Mixers. If that isn’t enough expect DJ sessions and a spot of crazy golf at the Stratford venue, with all this happening we’re looking forward to summer.
Bussey Building, 133 Rye Lane, London, SE15 4ST
Roof East, Stratford Multi Storey Car Park, Great Eastern Way, London, E15 1XE
Photographer Yoshiyuki Matsumura may have grown up in Osaka, Japan, but his lens if firmly trained on the people and landscapes of deepest America.
With his American Samples project “strongly influenced” by the work of Robert Frank (The Americans), Stephen Shore (American Surfaces and Uncommon Places) and Joel Sternfeld (American Prospects), his nostalgic portrayals of different towns and their inhabitants are both striking yet familiar.
“It was shot in many different places in the States because I wanted to capture the whole of America,” Yoshiyuki told us, “I crossed America six times by train from New York to LA, stopping along the way.”
Using kit like a Pentax 67, Ricoh GR1v and Konica Big Mini, and having “endurance in the dark room” all contribute towards the resulting hazy finish of Yoshiyuki’s style. A self-declared fondness for the film Stand By Me as a child also may have played a part.
South Carolina
Despite having met and photographed a multitude of characters throughout his travels, there are some that stick with Yoshiyuki: such as the kids seen here in South Carolina. “The young boy and girl are meeting at the corner on the street,” he told us. “She lives in the house near the corner. She is not wearing any shoes. I think they will go out soon. I love their distance.”
Someone once told Yoshiyuki: “You know more about America than Americans.” And by the looks of these images, we think they may just be right. Take a trip with us now.
Oregon
West Virginia
Iowa
Alabama
New Mexico
Missisippi
Yokiyushi Matsumura is represented by Quadriga; quadriga.fr
JAEHA, founded by Korean-born New Zealander Jae Kim, is the new ready-to-wear label to know. After moving to London in 2010, Kim gained experience working in the Mary Katrantzou studio before studying at Central St Martins under the late Louise Wilson OBE. Carving out his own aesthetic, he is known for combining abstract forms with layering and texture.
Tell us about how you started designing… When I was 17, I saw all these girls sewing up their ball dresses for their end of year high school ball – pure polyester moment. They needed help – so I decided to take fashion as one of my subjects in high school back in New Zealand.
Why did you decide to move to London?
I met Peter Pilotto and Jean-Pierre Braganza at Mango El Boton competition in Barcelona. Braganza told me I should come to London – so I sent my application to Louise Wilson at Central St Martins MA, and was accepted.
How would you describe your brand?
Premium contemporary womenswear – visually striking garments that combine bold, androgynous cuts with a care free, wearable style.
What’s the story behind the AW16 collection?
Modern pre-Raphaelite women’s wardrobe meets Wes Anderson.
What’s the most valuable advice you have been given?
Collaboration is good when it’s needed.
Where do you see your brand in five years?
Kate Middleton’s wardrobe. Hopefully people can pronounce ‘JAEHA’ correctly by then.
Cancel your plans: for tomorrow, on Saturday 23rd April, Soho’s Brewer Street Carpark will play host to quite possibly the ultimate car boot sale.
Brought to us by The Store, and featuring participants such as Bay Garnet, Laura Bailey, Alex Eagle, Charlotte Olympia, Saffron Aldridge and many, many more – proceeds will be going towards the ever-deserving Women For Women International.
Rifling through the discarded treasures of some of fashion’s most elite has up until now been the stuff of fantasy – but now – it’s a reality. And all for an excellent cause.
Since its inception in 1993, Women For Women International – lead by the fearless Zainab Salbi – has tirelessly been striving to practically and morally support women who have survived the horrors and consequences of war, throughout the world.
And an event such as this, is arguably the easiest way to make a difference to those who need it most.
The event takes place between 1-5pm in Brewer Street Car Park, Brewer Street, London, W1F 0LA. Entry is £10 on the door, and £5 for concessions – cash only.
High street staple providers Uniqlo are about to unveil a brand new collaboration for SS16 with Brooklyn-based artist, KAWS.
The 25-piece collections will see the characteristically playful work of KAWS adorning everything from their line of UT (T-shirts) to totes bags and room shoes.
Due to launch in the brand’s Fifth Avenue Global Flagship store on 22nd April, and then throughout the world and online, customers will have the chance to invest in items adorned with KAWS’ iconic ‘companion’ character, as well as his beloved heart, cloud and double-cross motifs.
Described as one of the most relevant artists of his generation, KAWS studied illustration in Manhattan in the early ’90s and has now become well-versed in, and known for, his street art, graphic and product design, paintings, murals and large-scale sculptures.
Caine London is the new cult denim brand on the scene, brought to you by musician/stylist duo, Matt Allchin and Hayley Caine.
The AW16 collection, ‘Rub-A-Dub’, consists of handcrafted denim jackets and jeans as well as embroidered sweaters and shirts, and is inspired by everyone’s favourite place: the pub. As a concept, it takes you on a cheerful crawl from ‘The Rising Sun’ to ‘The Half Moon,’ where you’ll shoot some pool and try your luck on the fruit machine; which, coincidentally, is a print which features on one of their shirts.
Combining ‘ye olde pub’ references with their ’90s grunge silhouette, we want to join their party…
How did you meet?
We met in 2013 in a pub in Peckham, Matt had been up all night at a friends party and had a picture of Martin Sheen in his pocket. Hayley was so impressed she hasn’t left him alone since.
Tell us about your collection: ‘Rub-A-Dub’…
The collection, like our meeting is based around the good old-fashioned English boozer. We used some of our favourite pub signs and names as inspiration. We’re constantly being inspired by things around us that don’t seem to be there or appreciated anymore. Our last collection was based on Canal Art and this time we were drawn to the signs above old English pubs, this again seems to be a way of life that is disappearing. It’s hard to find a pub that you would recognise as a traditional pub these days, we wanted to celebrate this.
What’s in the name?
It’s cheeky really it is cockney rhyming slang for ‘pub’. Other options were ‘nuclear sub’ or ‘battle cruiser’ – boozer – but they didn’t seem appropriate or fun enough!
Which are your favourite pubs in London? Unfortunately many of them are unrecognisable or closed down but we’re always on the look out for those rare bolt holes where you can only pay cash and the duke box is free like the Man of Kent in Nunhead.
You also cite ’90s grunge as an inspiration behind this collection – who were your favourite bands/musicians?
Obviously Nirvana, Sonic youth etc, but we love all music really. During our long painting sessions at the studio we can listen to anything from Bob Marley to 1930s comedy songs about loving bananas ‘coz they have no bones’.
Which is your favourite piece in the collection and why? You can’t help but smile when you look at The Rising Sun Jacket and he came to represent a turning point in the design process. Once we had that made everything else seemed to flow more easily, we hung him like a talisman in our studio!
You’ve branched out into jeans for AW16 tell us about those… Are there any skirts/dresses etc to follow for next season? The straight and wide leg jeans are super soft and luxe with a vintage look. Next season were ramping it up a notch so expect anything and everything.
If you had to sum up your brand in three words it would be… Stylish, fun and irreverent.
A graduate of Central Saint Martins, graphic and moving image designer Rose Pilkington‘s work is a welcome slice of psychedelia in our otherwise grey-permeated days.
Entitled ‘Auroratone’, Rose’s work is not only beautiful, it has been made with healing in mind. Citing Cecil Stokes, an experimental filmmaker from the 1940s as a loose inspiration – whose psychadellic 16mm abstract films were said to improve the mental state of emotionally fractured war veterans – Rose has keenly observed and subsequently utilised the historical link between colour and our state of mind.
By deftly using a combination of varying practices, from optical illusion to 2D and 3D techniques, her work is as transportive as it is visually pleasing. In a world – creatively speaking – that is for the most part hell bent on paring back and minimalism, it’s refreshing to be confronted by such unapologetic and uplifting “eye-candy” pieces.
“Creating these abstracted cavernous landscapes with colourful curves and soft shapes I wanted to assault the senses of the viewer,” says Rose, “impacting their eyes with colour and form, provoking them to feel stimulated by the colour surrounding them. By forcing colour to the forefront of our consciousness, some connection to it becomes apparent and a response is evoked that infiltrates the emotions.”
‘Auroratone’ at Dreams Bags Jaguar Shoes runs from 8th April – 30th June. Click HERE for more information.
Northern Soul, The Smiths, Joy Division, acid house…Manchester’s cultural (and subcultural) legacy is legendary. Today tells a somewhat different story. The Hacienda’s been bulldozed and turned into flats, and the proudly-Labour city has felt the fog of Tory austerity descend. As the hangover of Manchester’s past lingers, London-based photographer Tom Sloan believes that it’s youth culture is deep rooted and immovable.
In his second online story for Twin, Sloan meets and photographs Dakota Ditcheva—a 17-year old World Champion Thai Boxer from Sale, Manchester. In line with the rest of his work Sloan hopes to shed light on the importance of youth:
“One of the great things about boxing is how it works – perhaps more so than other sports does – as a platform (quite literally) for these kids to perform, and that’s what I try to do, to give British youth an opportunity to showcase what they do best at a stage in life when they are often wrestling with burgeoning notions of selfhood.”
What are the ideas or questions that ignited this project? So much of my work examines those few years that sit between late adolescence and adulthood. For most, this is a time when the novelty of independence first comes in to play. It’s a universal feeling, but the way young people choose to use it is not. I had a pretty eventful teenage period in Southhampton, hung out with the type of kids I photograph, took drugs, went to parties – the usual stuff. But for Dakota these years were spent in the gyms and boxing rings of Manchester. At 17 she’s at the cusp of ‘adulthood’ and the forefront of women’s boxing – which was included in the Olympic Games for the first time in 2012. In line with the rest of my photography I wanted to show Dakota at home in Manchester, doing what she does best – boxing.
Much of your work depicts youth, and young people—is there a reason for that? When you are younger you haven’t picked up as much baggage—as tired and overused as that phrase is. You are easily excited, open to opportunity and less conscious. In a round-about way, this brings about two things, first a more honest connection and second a sense of confidence which I look for in youth. That confidence might manifest itself in one kid as he skins up a fat joint on the local rec, or like Dakota through an activity or sport. I ask questions in an attempt to connect with the young people I photograph: what do they like? What don’t like like? Who are they listening to? It’s easy with Dakota she has an clear interest – and I was interested in that.
You shot this story in Manchester. Was it important to give the city a sense of place? Absolutely. I shot Dakota in her house and around her estate in Sale, often against the backdrop of those brown-brick terrace houses that are so synonymous with the North West. I wanted to evoke a strong sense of identity and give insight into where Dakota and her family are from.
Boxing is a recurring theme in your work. What is it about boxing that inspires you? The energy, that sense and feel of the unexpected – that’s why I’m drawn to it. I don’t box – I like it – but I don’t box, it’s an observational relationship but immersive in so far as pulling out Dakota’s clear interest in it. But, it’s not just boxing. I have shot motocross riders, gravel pit shooters, activities or interests that toy with a sense of danger. As much as I am on the look out for new faces, I’m as much on the look-out for new activities – different ways to showcase the diversity that is so relatable to British youth culture.
What is it that you’re trying to do with your work? My future work – I guess – will be an extension of what I am doing now. I try to make sure there is a level of linearity running throughout my work, each project tells a different story but the aesthetic joins them. I shoot ‘real’ people, people not models. I like to work with people who haven’t been shot and that is a practice I want to continue.
Trundling round Europe in a white van, spending their time listening to The Band and Bob Dylan, drinking too much whiskey and beer: the antics of the six-man band Whitney have a something of a cinematic quality about them. On the icy Sunday that I meet them, they’ve just come over from a festival in Holland where they played to families and partied with the locals until the early hours. One small jaunt across the border and they’ve arrived in London, much to the delight of Hackney’s finest, who are queuing down the street to get into the small garage space which is already 100 degrees too hot from the expectant fans inside.
Maybe it’s just the home-made, half-drunk Tom Collins in hand, but as the band sound checks you can feel their magnetism entrance the crowd. By the time they’ve launched into their first song, the sense of joy from the stage and throughout the audience is palpable.
The band – made up of Max Kakacek, Julien Ehrlich, Josiah Marshall, Malcolm Brown, Will Miller and Print – are an exceptional live act. They literally move in rhythm, playing their separate instruments (trumpet, keyboard and a rhythm guitar alongside guitar, bass and drums) as though they’re all in sound together. It’s an unparalleled and unique chemistry. The lyrics are melancholy yet hopeful, expertly worked out by Julien, Max et al. Julien’s silky, pure vocals ride over melodies that swing from soft and searching to the downright groovy, led by ex-Smith Western’s Max on the guitar. Whitney are a band singing about crossroads and transience, about lost loves and moving forward and having a lot of fun together whilst they do it. “I’m searching for those golden days” Julien sings in one particularly enthralling track; judging by the reaction of the crowd, it feels like Whitney might finally have found them.
We caught up with lead duo Max and Julien to talk the bathrooms in Soho House, eyeballing audiences, Donald Trump and the new album.
How did Whitney happen?
M: Me and Julian lived together. After Smith Westerns ended we each worked on different weird projects that never came to fruition. Then one morning I bought this old cassette tape machine that sounded crazy and we were just testing out the machine and wrote two songs for it just kind of snowballed into something we wanted to make a whole album for.
J: We had never recorded my voice before. And this tape machine had a ton to do with it. It just made everything sound really good and appealing but dry, super dry. And that’s where the sound kind of blossomed.
M: The first song we recorded, if we ever release it, you’ll hear that the affect on Julian’s voice is so intense and ridiculous and we were kind of going way way far to figure out a voice and then scaled it back.
J: During the demos I was more experimenting with my voice a bit more and we were experimenting with recording it, and right before we went out to LA to record the full length in LA I kind of hit my stride and figured out how to sing.
M: Once we had the unique voice or whatever we kind of built the band around it.
Was there a particular moment when it clicked? J: I remember a moment that we decided that we were going to drop the other shit that we were working on. It was right after we finished the second song that we wrote. I think we took shots of molly water and were walking around Chicago because it was the first nice day and we were just listening to it out of our iPhones. We were insanely proud of it. We went onto someone’s roof and were still listening to it.
M: Did you almost pee on someone’s couch that night?
J: I think I peed on someone’s couch that night… And then we didn’t really follow up with any of the other stuff that we were doing.
The band; photo by Sandy Kim
And how did you find the other members of the band? M: They’re our best friends. They all basically left their apartments, which were five minutes away from ours, and everyone moved in together. It was like an open door thing, like a family.
Do you think Whitney only happened because of your experience with Smith Westerns and Unknown Mortal Orchestra? J: I don’t know if it was because of other bands, but we were just in the right place in our lives to put all of our energies and songwriting talents into this weird project in the hopes that people would pick up on it, and so far it’s working.
M: I don’t think there’s anything specific I took from Smith Westerns but it’s just learning on a personal level how to arrange things.
Are you still using the tape machine? M: No that thing broke like after we made that song. We did record the whole album on tape though.
You recorded your album in L.A with Foxygen’s Jonathan Rado, what influence did he have on your sound and process? J: We used basically all of his gear to record it, it’s obvious that he has gotten really good at getting the right sounds out of all the stuff he owns. He’s the type of guy that goes crazy if he’s not recording so we didn’t really have any downtime. Overall it was a great experience.
Do you write the songs together? How personal are they? J: We really consult each other on mostly everything. Most of the time I concept where the lyrics should to but if I hit a road block we’ll just bounce them off each other. And it goes the same way with every instrument.
Why did you choose this particular sound? J: Most of the songs are about transition in general. That’s where we were in our lives and it seemed like the sound suited the character at the time, but in no way is it going to define Whitney as a whole. We don’t want people to think that we’re going to come out with a sad record every time. We’ve been listening to a lot of Greenday today so…
How is it playing drums and singing vocals? J: I’ve always done it, but for backing vocals. So it wasn’t hard to do four limbs and singing vocals.. It was more about learning how to assume the pressure of being a frontman, of learning how to talk in between songs and be more entertaining. But I’m past that roadblock now, I feel really comfortable. We toured with the idea of me standing up and playing guitar but then I looked like a fucking lame dude playing the guitar. I do not look good.
What’s the weirdest thing that happened on tour? J: Our bass player drank our old guitarist’s piss, by accident. It was a really late night and we were hanging out in a cemetery and then our guitarist went and passed out in the van, and then peed in the half-full water jug. Then our bassist came in and busted off the top…
M: So many good thing’s going on! His name’s Josiah Marshall.
J: He routinely loses tour.
How are you finding the whole touring experience? What’re learning along the way? J: I’m learning how to pace myself a little bit more.
M: I was pretty prepared for this tour, but I learned that Soho House as an institution is really nice! The showers.. Oh my god.
J: Just the most private bathrooms you could ever imagine, you can do whatever you want it in there.
Max and Julien; photo by Dominique Goncalves
Alright! What’s the plan for the rest of 2016? J: Just non-stop touring. Our goal is to sit down and write more songs, but we’ll probably just learn to do it on the road.
How do you find performing the same songs every night? J: Whitney is a band that changes things every night. We’re always working to put variations on the songs that we wrote a year and a half ago.
M: And at this point, the faces in the audience are always new, so the reaction to songs is always different.
What’s the worst song you ever wrote? J: I wrote a song about that sci-fi movie Event Horizon with our bass player
M: I was in a really bad band called ADHD when I was in eighth grade, and we had a song called Sexy Police Officer. We sang about George Bush a lot, I was really active.
What’re you going to do if Donald Trump gets in? J: We have a thing where during shows I’ve made the crowd flip off Donald Trump and yell “Fuck Donald Trump.” Besides that, I don’t think Whitney wants to comment on political affairs…
Light Upon the Lake is released on Secretly Canadian, June 3rd
J.W.Anderson doesn’t intend on going out of style any time soon. After showing fabulous mens and womenswear AW16 collections in London (the first of which was live streamed on Grindr, a PR triumph) for his eponymous label, alongside an acclaimed Loewe show in Paris, the designer has the world smitten.
Limited Edition books curated by J.W.Anderson will be on sale
Off the catwalk, his flair for innovation is similarly newsworthy. Unlike contemporaries such as Christopher Kane and Erdem, Anderson has spurned the traditional flagship store vibe, opting instead to run creative workshops at an intimate venue in Shoreditch. His most recent collaboration with image-maker Ian David Baker is the latest treat.
In this collection, the youthful, culturally poignant images from Baker’s canon are married with a range of staple items. From 23rd March, attendees will have the chance to browse scarves, T-shirts, hoodies, knitwear, tote bags, and a blanket, all with a variety of raw-edged cotton appliqué Ian David Baker photographs.
T-shirts bearing Ian David Baker prints are for sale
Additional print material by Baker, such as his Candyfloss Boy poster will also be available, as well as a limited edition book of images curated by J.W.Anderson.
J.W.Anderson Workshops, 100 Shoreditch High Street, London, E1 6JQ
You don’t have to be ‘Gregory’s Girl’ or ‘Bend It Like Beckham’ to make timeless sports classics work for you. In fact, there’s no need to reference any men at all. With the Women’s Super League preparing to embark on another astounding season – and players such as Marie Hourihan, Beth Mead, Jemma Rose and Jade Bailey fast becoming ones to watch – a kick about has never looked so good.
In another of our online stories, we bring you the work of photographer Josh Shinner, with the shoot ‘Match Day’. Working with stylist Siobhan Lyons, they spent a hectic Saturday at North London’s Emirates Stadium and produced, what we think you’ll agree, is quite a lovely study in focus, fashion and football.
Shooting outside the ground before the Tottenham vs Arsenal match – billed as the ‘biggest north London derby in a decade’ – certainly had it’s challenges. For example getting caught up in a scrum with smoke bombs and riot police was maybe a tad more than I’d anticipated… – Josh Shinner
White Wool Poloneck Jumper, Lacoste at Tick Tock Vintage
Creme Harrington Jacket, Beyond Retro
Tracksuit Bottoms, Tick Tock Vintage
Argyle Wool V-Neck Jumper, Fred Perry Archive
Tracksuit top worn underneath
Vest, Vintage Nike
Shorts, Vintage Sergio Tachini at Tick Tock Vintage
Socks, Topshop
Champion Hoodie and all Jewellery, Stylist’s Own
Hooded Anorak, Fila
Yellow Polo-Shirt, Fred Perry Archive
Anorak, Vintage Fila at Tick Tock Vintage
Blue Shirt, Vintage Burberry at Tick Tock Vintage
Scarf, Burberry at Rokit
Beanie, Fila
Tracksuit Bottoms, Ron Dorrf
Socks (as before), Topshop
Trainers, Adidas
Polo neck, Rokit
Sweatshirt and Shorts both Vintage Adidas at Tick Tock Vintage
Red Windbreaker Jacket, Vintage Adidas at Tick Tock Vintage
Red Jumper, Vintage Tommy Hilfiger at Blitz Vitage
White Wool Poloneck Jumper, Lacoste at Tick Tock Vintage
Creme Harrington Jacket, Beyond Retro
Tracksuit Bottoms, Tick Tock Vintage
Tracksuit Top, Tick Tock Vintage
Photographer: Josh Shinner
Stylist: Siobhan Lyons
Hair: Bjorn Krischker @ Frank Agency using Bumble and bumble
Makeup: Gina Blondell using Bobbi Brown
Photo assistant: Jack Somerset
Styling assistant: Emi Papanikola
Model: Martha Rose Redding @ Select
There’s a new generation of British designers making a splash on the scene with bright, bold and idiosyncratic designs. Amongst these rising stars is knitwear sensation Katie Jones. Graduating fro Central St Martins in 2013, her instantly recognisable aesthetic combines playfulness with artisan craft; breathing fresh life into a British style which has for years been dominated by homogenous items from high street chains. Each piece is hand-made in the UK too, meaning Jones is also carving a path for mainstream, ethical fashion.
Currently a part of Selfridges’ Bright New Things series, we caught up with designer Katie Jones to discuss knitting Elvis, crocheting for Craig Green and spinning yarns.
Did you always know that you wanted to be a designer?
Not really, I always liked to customise things as a kid and the obsession just grew from there.
Can you recall your first serious design? What were you doing and being influenced by at the time?
The first time I actively designed anything was a hand knitted jumper with Elvis on the back. It was supposed to be sexy young Elvis and I messed up the pattern and it became fat old Elvis, it was for a sixth form Project based on ’50s rock & roll.
Your aesthetic is very distinctive, where did it come from? And what was it about knitwear that you were drawn to?
My Gran used to embellish everything and only wore pink or bright prints I think this really influenced me as a child. All my family knitted but I think I then became really drawn to it as you can control the whole make process. As you make the whole fabric from scratch you choose colour, texture everything – that’s amazing as a designer.
You’ve worked for John Galliano, Mark Fast and Diane Von Furstenburg, what made you want to start your own label?
I never set out to run my own label. It was a small portfolio project in between seasonal crochet showpiece work I was doing for Mark Fast at the time; it just snowballed after that.
How would you describe the industry at the moment, is it a good time to be an emerging designer?
It’s exciting, there’s lots of change at the moment and it’s hard to guess how it will affect young designers with this move to instant selling after shows. But on the plus side with the growth of social media and Instagram you can really reach such a big audience as an emerging designer and control so much of your PR- it’s really cool to be able to make your brand more of an experience.
Katie’s window at Selfridges in London
How long does it take to make each piece, what’s the process?
All our pieces are handmade so they are pretty laborious taking between 10-100 hours to make. For me its all about the craftsmanship and detail. We dye our yarns and also source colours from designer surplus. I like it as it makes designing more of a puzzle and pushes our designs forward. I like to work with what is most available at the time while having control of picking and hand dying our colours.
Do you ever get halfway through a collection and wish you’d opted for something simpler, like cotton dresses?
Making a cotton dress sounds more stressful to me! I’m a knitter and crafting the collections as we do feels second nature to my design process.
What has been your most ambitious design to date?
Designing and making our Selfridges window for me was the most ambitious and fun project we have done. It was really amazing to be able to make a world to invite people into. We built it all in my tiny kitchen so it was quite a task. The donkey lived on my dining table for a month.
When you’re working, are you designing as Katie Jones or for a particular element of your personality?
I like to think when I design that it’s for myself. I think this is really great as you understand your target market. I usually create a character and a story each season and the collection embodies what they would wear but I think they are a form of alter ego of myself.
What’re the challenges of having ethical and sustainable fashion at the core of your brand?
For the brand I feel our challenges have just been the same as any new emerging designer: production and growth. The only difference is we are finding ways to grow the brand in London rather than abroad and picking our resources consciously.
What was the inspiration behind your AW16 Highland Fling collection?
It all sparked from an image of John Lennon donning an Afghan and sporran and I loved the combo. Highland Fling then became a celebration of traditional Scottish textiles like Aran and Argyle knits, Tweeds and the 60s. We wanted the pieces to empower the craft and pay homage to the babe power of the icons of the era!
You collaborated with Kit Neale how did that come about, and how was it working with a menswear designer?
Kit got in contact telling me he was a fan of my jewellery and it would work for his upcoming season and it went from there. He’s super fun to work with! I just got to play with his fabric scraps and he let me go off and come back with my creations. It was a really great project – how can dressing boys up in big dangly earrings not be fun. I love working with menswear designers, it’s such an exciting time in menswear. That season was really fun and a bit of a menswear focus for me as I was also working for Craig Green crocheting pieces.
What’s in store for the rest of 2016?
This year we are launching our online range, which I’m really excited about working with our Golden Girls Nana Knit Squad on!
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