House of Holland has turned a traditional ice cream van into a moving flagship
Henry Holland, the British designer of House of Holland, has turned a traditional ice cream van into a bright colored flagship store on wheels. It’s a real pop art explosion and will be selling an exclusive capsule collection of accessories, jewellery, headwear and eyewear with the brand’s signature polka dots, candy stripes and acid brights.
The van (dubbed “Mr Quiffy’s”) will start its journey this Friday, and is set to pop up in London’s Covent Garden, Carnaby Street, Seven Dials and Spitalfields areas, then travel further up north to Manchester, before returning to the capital for London Fashion Week in mid-September.
If the road trip goes well, there is a possibility of taking the van to Birmingham, Leeds, Liverpool, Newcastle and the seaside town of Brighton. And perhaps the van will hit the routes again in the future, but the young designer is more eager to find the perfect spot for a stand alone store to open shortly in the capital. The project was created to celebrate the label’s forthcoming e-commerce site, which also launches on Friday.
houseofholland.co.uk
Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s
London is often regarded as a city full of inspiration, forward-thinking and bound-breaking people when it comes to fashion and style, and in the 1980s it was not an exception. At that time the city was a creative explosion of colors, patterns, styles and unique people walking down the streets.
It was a time when creativity was flowing free by fashion provocateurs such as Vivienne Westwood, Katherine Hamnett and John Galliano, and the club scene’s theatrical style icons – such as Boy George, Adam Ant and Leigh Bowery.
The capital’s vibrant and eclectic club scene was booming in the 80’s and influenced a new generation of designers. At the same time fashion took off and London’s art colleges, such as Central Saint Martins, made London designers famous for their inventiveness and their vibrant fashion began to create a stir internationally.
You can now re-discover this bold and inspirational epoch of London fashion in the 1980s through more than 85 outfits and a range of selected images in an exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s is on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, SW7 2RL, London until February 14, 2014.
vam.co.uk



Something Spezial
Iconic trainer label adidas and the brand’s consultant/avid collector Gary Aspden have created a sportswear heaven for all three stripe junkies in the form of the Spezial exhibition.
Comprised of 650 pairs, this show sees rarities like Yohji Yamamoto’s footwear designs sit alongside styles signed by the likes of Public Enemy, The Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Noel Gallagher and more. Don’t miss out on your chance to revisit the adidas archive (including the brand’s ongoing collaboration with BAPE) before the show closes this Saturday.
Spezial is on display at Hoxton Gallery, 9 Kingsland Road, E2 8AA, London until July 27.
hoxtongallery.com

Architectural Aesthetics
Despite AW13 being her only third namesake collection, Rejina Pyo already has a number of accolades to her name. The Korean womenswear designer was hired as the first assistant designer for Roksanda Ilincic immediately after her graduation from CSM, had her MA collection reproduced by Weekday, won the Han Nefkens Fashion Award in 2012, and fused fashion and sculpture for her ‘Structural Mode’ installation at Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam. When this London-based creative isn’t busy working on her own label, she acts as a womenswear designer and consultant for Christopher Raeburn and a womenswear lecturer.
As far as her designs go, Pyo’s SS13 collection took on a more wearable approach to her trademark architectural aesthetic, showing a range of lightweight denim, linen and sheer organza fabrics cut into clean-lined and graphic shapes. For AW13 she delved even more into fabric experimentation: faux mink fur, twill patterned wool, silk jacquard and laminated cotton in colours of navy and burgundy offered up a luxuriously modern look. Judging by her elegant yet approachable creations, the future can only hold bright things for this young designer.
rejinapyo.com




SOLIDS
Berlin has always been a hotspot for art enthusiasts, however the city’s fashion scene is proving to be a perfect breeding ground for intriguing fashion talent as well. Case in point: the debut collection of ESMOD Berlin graduate Carmina Blank.
Entitled SOLIDS, Blank’s range of womenswear designs was inspired by the likes of Simona Pries and based on the process of shape manipulation and material reinvention.
This translates into clean-lined yet striking looks incorporating unconventional fabrics such as laser-cut and heat-shaped acrylic glass, beechwood veneer strip appliques and silver insulating material. We’re digging this young designer’s eye-catching spin on minimalism and look forward to seeing collection number two.



Mary Katrantzou x Repetto
Every woman needs a pair of ballet pumps and brogues (or ten). Leave it to Mary Katrantzou to give said shoe classics a graphic spin for the summer.
The Greek womenswear designer has teamed up with French footwear label Repetto for a capsule range of shoes decorated with her trademark prints.
Get your piece of this limited edition collaboration exclusively at Parisian concept store Colette.
colette.fr
Twin Picks: Sandals
Although the online shopping world is preparing us for autumn, we’ve only just now been able to really appreciate our summer wardrobes. In celebration of the late, but very welcomed arrival of summer, we focus on the season’s must have sandals. Time for that long overdue pedicure.

Chloé Two-tone leather sandals, £325, net-a-porter.com & Antonio Barbato Per Tassinari Sandal, £233.53, farfetch.com

Opening Ceremony Fisherman Sandals, £258 £129, matchesfashion.com & Ancient Greek Sandals Black Leather Alcyone Sandals, £110, avenue32.com
Tags: Ancient Greek Sandals, Antonio Barbato Per Tassinari, Chloe, opening ceremony, sandals, Spring/Summer 2013
Eyes on the Horizon
Just in time for summer, MCM has collaborated with artist duo Craig & Karl on a quirky range of leather accessories.
Entitled ‘Eyes on the Horizon’, the collection is a nod to Craig Redman and Karl Maier’s transatlantic creative working methods and features their humourous designs such as sunglasses, water reflections and palm trees emblazoned onto the luxury brand’s backpacks, briefcases, wallets, shoppers and more. Consider it a chic yet fun-filled way to stash your everyday staples.
mcmworldwide.com


A More Travelled Dior Woman
“I began by looking at women from different continents and cultures,” explained Raf Simons when talking about the recent creations he sent down the catwalk during couture fashion week. His third collection as artistic director of the infamous house was worldlier than its predecessors. “The collection evolved to be about Dior not just being about Paris and France, but about the rest of the world and how many fashion cultures impact on the house and on myself,” the Belgian designer added. These influences came from Europe, America, Asia and Africa and the collection itself was split into four, each lending its own culture to the beautiful designs.
Not only were we introduced to a more modern, multi-cultural Dior women but we were also introduced to Dior Haute Couture the way four very different, highly respected fashion photographers see it. Willy Vanderperre (The Americas), Terry Richardson (Africa), Patrick Demarchelier (Europe) and Paolo Roversi (Asia) were given their own nation to express and took photographs before the show, which were then projected above the catwalk as the models walked down the runway.
With a magnitude of embroidery, billowing silk and a plethora of silhouettes, now the Dior woman can be transported to the country of her choice when dressing for that special occasion.




Tags: Couture Fashion Week, Dior, haute couture, Raf Simons
Kenzo Resort 2014
The easy, breezy state of California served as the inspiration for Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s latest collection for Kenzo.
The laid-back tailoring, palm tree prints and pops of bubblegum colour make a fashion ode to the designers’ home state, with printed carrot trousers, cropped jackets and oversized cotton dresses offering a stylish way to beat the scorching summer sun whilst cotton poplins and spongey jersey make a nod to the casual style of surf culture.
Top it all off with neoprene wedge sandals and chunky plexiglass bracelets and you’ve got yourself the perfect summer wardrobe — even if you can’t make it all the way to the California coast.
kenzo.com





The Little Black Jean
This weekend J Brand are inviting denim lovers down to Selfridges new denim space on the 3rd floor to celebrate the Little Black Jean, a pair now exclusive to the infamous department store. Having turned to stylist Angela Scanlon to style the Little Black Jean, she will be making an in-store appearance tomorrow to share her denim tips as well as take photos with shoppers.
Customers are invited to photograph themselves in the new style which will then be uploaded to their personal social media channels, with the hashtag #littleblackjean of course. J Brand will also be launching a worldwide competition on the 1st July asking followers to submit images of themselves in their own black jeans for the chance to win a pair of J Brand 620 in Hewson. One pair will be won each day to the image with the most votes. At the end of July there will be a grand prizewinner, chosen by both Selfridges and Angela, who will win a pair of the exclusive Little Black Jean.
jbrandjeans.com
Tags: J Brand, Selfridges
Unseen
Coinciding with the 10th anniversary of the Fashion and Textile Museum which she founded in 2003, Zandra Rhodes: Unseen offers insight into one of the British fashion industry’s most treasured eccentrics.
Through an expansive collection of textiles, dresses and original sketches, the show will explore the archive, studio and creative process behind her five decades and counting career.
Zandra Rhodes : Unseen exhibits at the Fashion and Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, SE1 3XF, from 12 July until 31 August.
ftmlondon.org
The Anatomy Of Fashion
Phaidon are set to release another great fashion publication, written by renowned fashion commentator Colin McDowell. The Anatomy of Fashion: Why We Dress the Way We Do, is an interesting investigation, mapping the history of clothes from prehistoric times to today. From 18th Century bumpads to Alexander McQueen’s bumsters, McDowell looks at how pieces of clothing from every period has influenced the way we dress today.
McDowell also reveals intriguing facts throughout the book, such that Ancient Greek women were the first to wear bras and he also discovers the reason why shoes weren’t made with different shapes for right and left until the 1860s. With hundreds of photography, illustrations, paintings and film stills, you’ll find work by designers and artists such as Yves Saint Laurent and Jan van Eyck, Michelangelo and Coco Chanel. The Anatomy of Fashion is a lavish publication, looking at anthropological, sociological and historical perspectives on why we dress the way we do.
“The Anatomy of Fashion is such an innovative and intelligent way to narrate and explore fashion. Colin McDowell’s mind has the clarity to do this to perfection.” -Manolo Blahnik
The Anatomy of Fashion: Why We Dress the Way We Do will be published in September 2013, but you can pre-order now at phaidon.com


Tags: Colin McDowell, Phaidon
Vintage Paradise
The king of vintage William Banks-Blaney has teamed up with Selfridges for a four week pop-up to showcase the best Dior and Balenciaga pieces of decades past.
WilliamVintage will be showing a range of antique pieces that spans over 100 years of fashion and includes early work by houses such as Madame Gres, Givenchy and Hartnell.
Whether it’s a 1968 Oscar de la Renta mini dress or 1955 Lanvin haute couture cocktail dress you’re after, be sure to stop by and marvel at these unique pieces of fashion history.
selfridges.com
Rick & Raf
When style matches substance, you know you’ve got yourself a good fashion monograph. Hence why our inner fashion literary geek is excited by these two new publications, courtesy of i-D founder Terry Jones and Taschen, on the glunge (goth & grunge) master Rick Owens and Mr. Minimalism himself, Raf Simons.
Owens’ masterfully draped, bias-cut and beautifully melancholic designs are captured in images by Corinne Day, Sølve Sundsbø and Hans Feurer, while the anthology of Simons’ nearly two decades of understated elegance are displayed through the lens of Willy Vanderperre, Sølve Sundsbø and Alasdair McLellan. Far more than just two books full of pretty pictures, these hardcovers also feature interviews by the likes of Holly Shackleton, Jo-Ann Furniss, James Anderson, and Terry and Tricia Jones.
Say hello to your new coffee table book additions.
Twin Picks: Resort 2014
It’s that time of year when resort collections start flooding in and designers show us their creations for the in-between season. With so many interesting lines to pick from, we give you the top four that made our cut…
From Acne’s free-flowing fabrics inspired by overgrown gardens, to Chloe’s over-sized silhouette, Resort 2014 has chosen to ditch the tighter figure. Riccardo Tisci took nuances from previous collections and Alexander Wang for Balenciaga took inspiration from the house’s signature billowing shape to create his latest line. All four of these designers have given us plenty to look forward to the seasons ahead.
Chloe


Clare Waight Keller’s latest collection for Chloe has what she calls “barefoot attitude,” pieces that have no need for heels. This relaxed aesthetic was seen through the ultra-wide legged trousers that came in varying lengths and colours. Crisp shirts were tucked neatly in place, trenches became gillets and soft layers took center stage.
Givenchy


Ricardo Tisci blurred both the feminine and the masculine in this collection, contrasting dense cotton fabrics such as twill and denim with materials such as silk jersey and chiffon to show opposing elements. Layers were key, creating a Holly Hobbie rag-doll look with a-line shapes, full skirts and wide pajama pants.
Acne


For Acne’s Resort 2014 line, Jonny Johansson created a more subdued collection compared to the sometimes-experimental garments seen on his catwalks. Oversized, slouchy silhouettes were created by ikat pajamas, satin dresses and biker jackets. Although inspired by Johansson’s garden, the collection featured less green, more tangerine, white and a plethora of rich, royal blues.
Balenciaga


Having travelled to Getaria, the birthplace of Cristóbal Balenciaga to look for inspiration, Alexander Wang found just that in the house’s archives. Keeping to a muted palette of white, grey and black, Wang played with shapes and length, introducing short-shorts, a theatrical bolero and shredded plastic bucket hats to the Balenciaga’s anthology.
Tags: Acne, Balenciaga, Chloe, Givenchy, Resort 2014, Twin Picks
Holy Handbags
Amy Davidson, a BA (Hons) Fashion student at Manchester School of Art, recent won the Mulberry Accessories Award at Graduate Fashion Week for her intricate wood and laser cut leather men's accessories. Twin spoke to the young designer about her gothic architecture and French cathedral-inspired collection and post graduate plans…
How did it feel to win the Mulberry Accessories Award at
GFW?
I couldn’t believe it, the competition was tough this year so I was
overwhelmed with joy. It also gave me the confidence to keep designing and
thinking of new ideas. I want to use the same methods from making these bags
into something new.
What inspired you to pursue womenswear and men's accessories?
Throughout university and college I enjoyed designing and making feminine
clothes. I love lace and girly printed fabrics. As I grew and developed my
design philosophy, I began to love the idea of having these same designs on a
man. Sometimes designing traditional feminine shapes on a woman can be quite
predictable and bland, however if you put this on a man it becomes edgy and
unusual. I chose accessories as a career choice because my work is very 3D. I am
always trying to place unusual fabrications around the body, so it made more
sense to study accessories. It’s important for me to find a career I enjoy
and feel comfortable in.
You mentioned that you like to question why and how we wear fashion
and how you can influence others. Would you like to elaborate on how
this ethos feeds into your designs?
This ethos feeds into my designs by taking a generic garment and using it in a new way. In my final degree project I started making a
traditional corset shape out of boning, then covered it in knitting and
twisted it into new mysterious shapes around the body. The idea that we have
to dress a certain way with certain rules doesn’t apply to my designs. I
would much rather create an art form on the body then a generic shirt and
pants collection.
Where do you find your inspiration and which designers do you look
up to?
The inspiration for my collection came from my travels in France last
summer. I visited a few cathedrals and fell in love with the intricate
details found around the buildings and on the ceilings. I also love things
that are delicate like lace, you can see the skill and time that went into
making something like that. My fascination with both these things lead me to
design detailed laser cut patterns inspired by gothic imagery.
I chose to
use the colours black and silver because they are the colours most used in
my research and work best with the look I tried to achieve.
The designer I look at the most is Iris Van Herpen, she uses multiple textile techniques and unusual fashion materials to create beautiful
garments that shock and inspire her audience.
Another designer is Sandra Backlund, her visionary knitwear breaks the
mould and shows how sometimes the best way to create exciting garments is to
let the fabric inform the designs, not flat 2D drawings.
What was the process of creating your graduate accessories
collection like?
The process of creating my graduate accessories collection was mainly trial
and error. With most of my technical knowledge in pattern cutting and
sewing, I was faced with the challenge of using wood to create my bags. The most
logical way for me was to have small holes around each piece of wood and sew
them together with thick leather thread. Luckily this technique worked well
and fitted in with the rest of my design.
How would you describe your aesthetic and how would you like to
further develop as a designer in the future?
My design aesthetic is a real mix of my love for history, be it
architecture or costume, and modern art. I keep my designs contemporary by
mixing both research areas to create something original.
I would like to further develop as a designer in the future by finding new
ways to use my inspirational imagery. I think I would like to not be so
literal in my design themes in the future. I enjoy collections that are not
too overstated, where you can't see straight away where there designs came from, and that are a mix of ideas or a different take on the brand's own
signature style.
What are your postgraduate plans?
My post graduate plans are to do some freelance design work and then a
Masters in accessories at the Royal College of Art in September.
My dream career scenario would be to work for Mulberry or Marc Jacobs, I
love the quality of finish and the craftsmanship in each item. They design
stylish accessories that are clean and sophisticated which I’m really
interested in.
artsthread.com/p/amyloudavidson



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A Pool Pop-Up
Summer may have not shown its face as of yet but that doesn’t mean we can’t lift our moods with a bit of
retail therapy.
Enter Beach in the East, the creatively different pop-up shop created by Yasmin Sewell and Papier Mache Tiger. Set up in a disused swimming pool near Old Street, the east London-based store stocks brands such as Acne, Thomas Tait and House of Holland.
Get your shop on here until August 24.
beachintheeast.com

Artisanal Insight
The house of Hermès is world-renowned for its high level of craftsmanship, boasting some of the most highly coveted products to its name.
Now a team of its artisans will be offering a glimpse into the making of the brand's iconic handbags, silk scarves, fine jewellery and more for Festival des Métiers – A rendezvous with Hermès craftspeople.
The week-
long exhibition will be showcasing the work methods across ten different crafts, so don't miss out on the opportunity to witness high fashion (literally) in the making.
Festival des Métiers exhibits from 22 to 28 May at the Saatchi Gallery, Duke Of York's HQ,King's Road, SW3 4RY.
hermes.com
saatchi-gallery.co.uk
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High Voltage Fashion
This week marks the launch of Iain R. Webb's new book As Seen in BLITZ: Fashioning '80s Style. The ICA is celebrating the event with a series of talks and film screenings.
Webb's monograph focuses on the lasting influence of the style and culture bible, which emerged amongst the new wave of independent publications in London during the early 1980s like i-D and The Face.
In a worl
d of New Romantics, a hedonistic nightlife and post-punk fashion, BLITZ explored ideas of transformation, beauty, glamour and sex through its imagery and featured legendary contributors such as Leigh Bowery, Nick Knight, Bodymap, Katharine Hamnett, Vivienne Westwood and Andrew Logan.
Relive the best of the 80s this weekend by checking out the publication and visiting the ICA.
ica.org.uk
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