Say hello to the Ladybeard

Ladybeard is a relatively new independent magazine, and has recently welcomed its second release, ‘The Mind Issue’. For those who haven’t heard of it, Ladybeard is an annual feminist publication, committed to taking the form and format of traditional glossy magazines and subverting the content. The magazine, which spans over 70 contributors, platforms the voices you don’t hear in traditional women’s magazines, those that deviate from being the “straight, white, cis, able-bodied ideal.”

In ‘The Mind Issue’, which follows on from the bold and provocative ‘Sex Issue’, Ladybeard breaks down the strict dividing line drawn between the mad and the sane. It begins with several first person testimonies of losing one’s mind, before drawing on broad social issues, like exploring the use of MDMA and LSD as effective replacements to traditional prescription drugs. Twin spoke to the Ladybeard team to find out more about the magazine.

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Andrew Vladimirov photographed by David Vintiner for ‘The Mind Issue’

How would you describe Ladybeard for those who don’t know it?
We’re a feminist take on the glossy magazine. We theme each issue around a topic that we feel is misrepresented in the mainstream media in general, and women’s magazines in particular, and try to open that topic up to fresh, feminist perspectives. We started with sex and our latest issue is on the mind.

What were your intentions when you first started the magazine?
As a team, we grew up reading women’s magazines and hating the way they made us feel about ourselves. You hear the same voices and see the same ‘woman’ over and over again. The kind of definitions of beauty and sex and gender promoted by those magazines are so damaging. It’s impossible to live up to those standards so the magazine makes you feel like shit, but more than anything, it’s actually really boring reading them because nothing on those pages ever feels true to life. But the magazines themselves are so glossy and beautiful and covetable that you keep buying them, even against your better judgement. With Ladybeard, we wanted to platform the kind of voices you don’t hear in women’s magazines. We felt that if we made a space for many different people to speak honestly about subjects like sex and mental health, but that was also covetable and beautiful, then we might produce a magazine that we would have wanted to read.

What do you think sets Ladybeard apart from other magazines?
Ladybeard is very lucky to be part of a wave of independent women’s magazines that are departing from the glossy mag. What sets us apart, if we had to set ourselves apart, is the way we approach themed issues: we combine very bright, playful visuals with often quite serious content. In our ‘Sex Issue’, for example, we ran a series of very colourful, explicit Peter Stemmler illustrations of different sex positions alongside features on subjects like reclaiming sexual pleasure after rape, and a first person testimony of HIV and sex work. Similarly in the ‘Mind Issue’, we juxtapose really bold visuals alongside content that rethinks the preventative attitude to suicide in the UK, or calls out institutional racism in the mental health system. Our content is often serious, but the idea is to take a theme and celebrate it. We want to celebrate the people doing amazing things to challenge prejudices and inequalities around sex and sexuality, and now mental health.

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Illustration by Karan Singh for ‘The Mind Issue’

Can you tell us a bit about Issue 2: ‘The Mind Issue’?
‘The Mind Issue’ looks at our minds: the many facets of mental health; the relationship between how we think and how we live; how we express the self and what it means; how we change each other’s minds, and our own. It’s hard to sum it up! Much like ‘the mind’ as a concept, it is sprawling and hard to pin down, but it’s also colourful, playful and, hopefully, full of surprises.

‘The Mind Issue’ contains a huge amount of content, can you describe the process of putting together an issue?
It’s a lot of hard work! We don’t have a pre-existing structure so we can do what we want in terms of what kind of content we want – one of the perks of being an independent mag! Once we’ve decided on a theme, both the arts and editorial teams brainstorm all the different ways that theme could be approached, particularly through a feminist lens. We do a public call out for submissions and pitches while beginning to reach out to writers, artists, illustrators and people we want to interview. Then arts and editorial join up and begin to fit it all together until it takes its final form in layout. As we all work full-time, it’s a lot of evenings and weekends.

How has the magazine evolved since its first issue, and what can we expect next from the Ladybeard team?
In terms of how it’s evolved – it’s hard to say! The theme dictates each issue – ‘The Mind’ meant we could be more abstract and more exploratory and it ended up being much more explicitly political. We’ll see what happens with the next issue. We’re going to be holding an event later in the year so keep your eyes peeled for that. If all goes to plan, we’ll have another issue out in 2017!

‘The Mind Issue’ is out now. You can purchase a copy at Ladybeardmagazine.co.uk

The Ladybeard team is comprised of: Kitty Drake, Madeleine Dunnigan and Sadhbh O’Sullivan (editors); Scarlet Evans and Bronya Meredith (art direction and design); Tyro Heath and Hannah Abel Hirsch (arts editors)

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Harriet Horton’s Camouflage

Harriet Horton is heading to Paris. But not before she lets UK-based fans of her brand of taxidermy take a look at the new collection – ‘Camouflage’ – at her London studio.

Having beens fans of Harriet’s work for some time now, firstly becoming enamoured with her ‘Sleep Subjects’ exhibition of 2015, Twin is excited to see such an exciting and irreverent artist continue to develop.

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Harriet Horton, Owen, 2016

For 2016 the signature neons are still gleefully present, but there is a new, multi-textured element to the works. Materials such as marble dust and cement have been introduced, and create a staggering contrast to the exquisite delicacy of the taxidermy itself, transcending each piece onto an almost angelic plane.

“I’ve always said that when animals are deceased their natural colouring and camouflage becomes redundant,” Horton explains. “I have explored this idea further [for ‘Camouflage’] by either using animals that have no existing markings or stripping them of their original colouring and reconstructing it with light.”

It is fitting then, that a city such as Paris, which is so often known for both its light and its love, should be host to such a stunning example of the two used to breathtaking effect. Unmissable beauty.

‘Camouflage’ opens at the mi* gallery in Paris on 26th October, and runs until 16th January 2017.

Harriet will be holding a private view of the new work at her studio, Darnley Road Studios, on 29th September.

Harriethorton.com

Main image: Harriet Horton, Lovers, 2016

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‘Trump Fags’ by Antony Micallef for Peace One Day

Known for his social commentary artwork, London-based artist Antony Micallef has produced his latest pieces entitled, ‘Trump Fags’ for the non-profit organisation, Peace One Day. Now available via Paddle8, Trump Fags were made as a triptych and feature miniature oil paintings of Donald Trump on the front of Marlboro cigarette packets.

The project was curated by ambassadors of Peace One Day, Jude Law and Jake Chapman and has seen other leading artists such as Marc Quinn, Sir Antony Gormley and Tim Noble & Sue Webster donating artworks. All proceeds will go directly to the organisation that promotes peace in areas of conflict.

Artwork now live on Paddle8.com and running till the 5 October.

Antonymicallef.com

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The Art Deco Arts Club

The Bermondsey Arts Club & Cocktail Bar is the epitome of Style Moderne in Southwark, run by art school graduate George Garnier. It may be a former public lavatory but it’s been through some gentrification and is undoubtedly now the most luxe lav in the area, with bespoke brass furniture and a statement marble-topped bar that oozes Art Deco glamour.

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Not just a pretty façade though, BAC also offers delicious cocktails and spritzers, from the Eldersour to the Rossini from 6pm till late, Tuesday through to Saturday. Try their infamous jazz nights on Wednesdays to really get the Gatsby-esq party started.

Find it at Former Conveniences, 102 Tower Bridge Road, SE1 4PT. Opening times: Tuesday-Saturday, 6pm-2am.

Bermondseyartsclub.com

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Burberry Makers House

Londoners: if you only do one thing before 27 September – make it this.

To mark the release and subsequent immediate sale of its SS17 collection, British heritage brand Burberry has joined forces with The New Craftsmen to bring a pop-up curated artisan haven to Soho for one week only: Makers House.

Free to the public, and with the addition of a scaled-down version of the brand’s Regent Street eatery Thomas’s, which is set pouring out onto a picturesque courtyard dotted with busts and sculptures, the exhibition is a celebration of the craft and inspiration behind the latest collection. The clothes themselves are also situated in glorious catwalk formation to be browsed and bought at leisure on the first floor.

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With interactive displays from the roster of The New Craftsmen represented makers, working away on their individual trades, such as sculpture, embroidery and silk-screen printing, the show spans a series of rooms inspired by Nancy Lancaster’s interiors, referencing prints from the SS17 collection.

In addition to all this, there are interactive elements, such as daily readings from a hand-picked selection of actors and actresses, each of which are based around Virginia Woolf’s Orlando, which was a poignant note of reference for spring summer. There is also a photographic studio, in which visitors can receive a professional portrait of their time at the event, but be warned: the queues are long and it tends to shut early each day.

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Overall, however, it is an immersive and memorable discovery – nestled away from the continuous hustle of the city. And more than deserving of your time.

Burberry’s Makers House is located at 1 Manette Street, London, W1D 4AT – and runs until 27 September 2016. Opening hours are 10am-7pm and entry is free.

Burberry.com / Thenewcraftsmen.com

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LFW Backstage: Toga SS17

Exclusive coverage from behind-the-scenes at London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017.

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Benjaminwhitley.co.uk

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LFW Catwalk: Paul Smith SS17

Flowers, friendship and the work of Hilma Af Klint were at the root of Paul Smith‘s charming Spring Summer 2017 collection this London Fashion Week.

With a considered floral base serving as the contemporary canvas for his latest wares, the much-loved designer presented look after look of effortless, oversized suiting, voluminous dresses and graphic accessories which, quite literally, bloomed before the eye.

While the silhouette may have been maximal, the styling was far less so, with the bold pieces themselves needing little in the way of overworking. A riot of colour, shape and texture ensured that while the concept of flowers and spring is not a new one, Smith’s treatment of it couldn’t have been fresher.

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Paulsmith.co.uk

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LFW Backstage: Pringle Of Scotland SS17

Exclusive coverage from behind-the-scenes at London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017.

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Benjaminwhitley.co.uk

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LFW Backstage: Sophia Webster SS17

Exclusive coverage from behind-the-scenes at London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017.

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Benjaminwhitley.co.uk

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LFW Backstage: Belstaff SS17

Exclusive coverage from behind-the-scenes at London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017. See more at Belstaff.

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Benjaminwhitley.co.uk

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LFW Backstage: Topshop Unique SS17

Exclusive coverage from behind-the-scenes at London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017.

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Benjaminwhitley.co.uk

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LFW Backstage: House of Holland SS17

Exclusive coverage from behind-the-scenes at London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017.

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Benjaminwhitley.co.uk

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LFW Backstage: Sadie Williams SS17

Exclusive coverage from behind-the-scenes at London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017.

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Benjaminwhitley.co.uk

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LFW Backstage: Shrimps SS17

Exclusive coverage from behind-the-scenes at London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017.

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Benjaminwhitley.co.uk

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LFW Backstage: Ryan Lo SS17

Exclusive coverage from behind-the-scenes at London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2017.

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Benjaminwhitley.co.uk

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Miu Miu CustoMIUzation

Just in time for London Fashion Week, Miu Miu is offering customers the chance to personalise their bags with a large selection of free-spritited badges. Calling the project ‘CustoMIUzation’, it is a novel and interactive idea which enables shoppers to truly make a piece of the brand their own.

The choice of how to customise the madras leather and denim bags is completely at the discretion of the customer, with the patches on offer including the now iconic Miu Miu stars, varsity-style motifs as seen on the AW16 catwalk and adorable wording such as LOVE, KISS and FOREVER.

The process of adorning each bag will be carried out by a dedicated artisan, flown in especially from Italy, and take around 30 minutes to complete. With up to 12 badges to add, one suspects that the majority of the time will be spent deciding on the look to go for. As ever, Miu Miu has kept exclusivity at the forefront of their minds, and as such, there will only be a limited number of bags available. So don’t delay…

Miu Miu ‘CustoMIUzation’ will take place  from the 16th September at the Miu Miu New Bond Street store for a limited period only. 

Miumiu.com

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Afropunk by Kasandra Enid Torres

For 27-year-old photographer Kasandra Enid Torres, community is at the heart of the arresting and wholly joyous work she produces. Originally from South Florida, by way of Puerto Rico, Torres now resides in New York’s Washington Heights, and regularly shoots the kids in her neighbourhood.

This latest project, the ‘Afropunk Brooklyn’ series, is a collection of special moments brought to life in vivid colour. When Twin caught up with Torres, she described the atmosphere of the festival in which the images were created as “amazing”, with the crowd being “super chill and open”. She continued: “One of the days in the festival there was this DJ mixing some beats and everyone just really got in it. There was this amazing energy of everyone going with the beats and a sense of acceptance and joy. One of the shots is from this moment – it’s of a girl dancing.”

When asked what she believes the project portrays, Torres was thoughtful in her response, “I think it conveys feelings of power, pride and beauty.” And when further questioned about the resulting images, in comparision with her initial expectation of them, she replied: “Somewhat, if anything it showed me more about people.” Take a look for yourself below.

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Kasandraenidtorres.com

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Enter The Mushpit

Having started humbly in 2011 as an A5 DIY zine, in the last five years Mushpit has really come of age, and is in the process of compiling its 9th issue: ‘The Crisis Issue’. Born out of frustration with the rule-bound world of fashion, Mushpit is a playful reaction to glossy magazines, featuring lots of satire, as well as all your favourite tropes of teen magazines, with flow charts and problem pages aplenty.

If you haven’t picked up a copy of Mushpit yet, look no further – we spoke to creators Bertie Brandes and Char Roberts about being vodka lime socialists, unemployment, and what’s in their latest issue, which will be available for you to get your hands on pretty soon.

How would you describe Mushpit to anyone who doesn’t know it?
As useful, useless and stupid hot.

What were your aims when you started Mushpit? What gap do you think you’re filling in the market?
When we started we were very critical of “women’s media” which clearly didn’t cater to us at all. If you liked magazines then you apparently either read Vogue, Dazed, Grazia or W, which felt extremely dated. We also wanted a place to give room to all the amazing writers, photographers, stylists and time-wasters we were hanging around with.

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Is there a political agenda you stick to in terms of content or political leaning?
We’re Vodka Lime Socialists and proud.

Where do you draw inspiration from?
Shop signs, fizzy drinks, rival mags and the Ham & High.

Who is your audience?
People with a sense of humour, who are willing to spend money on something they have no idea about – so a lot of media dads. Oh and young women obvvsss!

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How has Mushpit evolved since it began in 2011?
It has grown in every sense. It was A5 when we were students and it’s A4 now we’re unemployed.

How do you fund the magazine? Do you have other jobs outside of Mushpit?
Charlotte (hi!) is a stylist and Bertie (hello!) is a writer. We try to do as many morally dubious and anonymous jobs as we can to fund the magazine and it sort of works. We manage to remain proudly ad-free, somehow.

What have been your favourite collaborative moments?
Shooting with Tyrone LeBon was great, and working in Suffolk with Raphy Bliss and Victoria Higgs on the new issue was a real dream shoot. Eloise Parry is an amazing photographer who we love working with, as well as Dexter Lander, who has become a regular contributor. Everything Paul Gorman does for us is phenomenal as well, not excluding him and Caz’s next feature.

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Can you give us any teasers for the next issue?
There’s some great editorial in issue 9; our good friend Martin has interviewed one of the founding editors of Spare Rib and, perhaps a little less high-brow, there’s a dandruff diet page for flaky scalp sufferers.

What kind of impact do you think Mushpit has?
We hope that once you’ve finished the magazine you feel vindicated and victorious… And ready to take on the world! The horrible, horrible world.

‘The Crisis Issue’ is coming in early October to Themushpit.co.uk

All images courtesy of Mushpit Magazine

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More Than A Muse opens in NYC

This weekend, during New York Fashion Week, sees the opening of the ‘More Than A Muse’ exhibition, which features the work of Larry Clark, Sandy Kim, Ryan McGinley and Dash Snow, and is curated by Aiden Tuite.

Seeking to explore “those relationships between artist and subject that exceed creative companionship and are based on inextricable, emotional ties”, the exhibition is as raw and visceral as it is complex. Pushing past the usual constraints of mere beauty or staging, the works feature parents, lovers, siblings and friends, and offer an unfiltered insight in the relationship that exists between the capturer, and the captured – on both sides of the lens.

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Colby Hewitt by Sandy Kim

In this show, it is both the photographer and the muse who are to be recognised as artists. It is a symbiotic display that proves that in order to convey something with genuine feeling, both parties have to be fully alive and present in the moment. Do not miss it.

‘More Than A Muse’ runs from 11th-18th September, at 65 Ludlow St, New York. Email aiden@cotton.studio for further info.

Main image: Christophe de Menil by Dash Snow

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Louis Vuitton Presents Its Debut Perfume

For the first time, the maison of Louis Vuitton has unveiled a series of seven fragrances, created by master perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud. The accompanying campaign, shot by Patrick Demarchelier, features the sultry gaze of Palm d’Or-winning actress Léa Seydoux.

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Of the range of scents in the premier collection – ‘Rose des Vents’, ‘Turbulences’, ‘Dans la Peau’, ‘Apogée’, ‘Contre Moi’, ‘Matière Noire’ and ‘Mille Feux’ – a full journey of emotions, from dark to light and self-revelation is the aim.

In keeping with the brand’s history of, and with, travel – Demarchelier and Seydoux journeyed to South Africa to shoot the coinciding ads, and wanted the wet-haired nonchalance of adventure to add to the purity of the actress’s natural beauty, mirroring the simple ethos of the perfumes themselves.

“Louis Vuitton is about travel, but it’s also about dreams. Its spirit blends adventure, discovery and emotion. I am very honoured to embody this universe.” – Léa Seydoux

Louisvuitton.com

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