MFW: Arthur Arbesser FW20 – An ode to Milanese Beauty

23.02.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

The city of Milan was the inspiration behind Arthur Arbesser’s FW20 collection which he presented just this past weekend. The designer was fascinated by the subtle and at times hidden beauties of the city such as the vintage architecture and design.

As a foreigner, living in the city for the past six years, he’s had the opportunity to observe the city’s gems from an objective perspective which he re-interpreted into this collection. Within the that he created strong graphics that were balanced with clean silhouettes and aspects that were to be discovered. 

The collection played with an interesting autumn palette of warm burgundy, milk white , black velvet and different shades of brown that also featured the designer’s signature pattern. He also collaborated with his fellow designer friend Marco Guazzini, who is the creator of a ceramic-like material named Marwoolus that mixes pressed marble powder and wool. In white, but flecked with attractive abstract plumes of color, these were Marwoolus single-button jackets, belts, pendants, earrings and a few skirts, shirts, and pants as well.

Tags: , , , ,

MFW: Marni FW20 – Piecing together the fragments of Alice’s trip to Wonderland

23.02.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This weekend Francesco Risso presented his FW20 collection for Marni as an abstract reinterpretation of the age old tale of Alice in Wonderland. 

“Where are you, Alice?

I’m not here right now, and probably not there. I am down the rabbit hole, luxuriating in a time warp.

Are you coming back anytime soon?

I don’t know. I feel like I have been here for a while, but probably I just arrived. Who are you?

I am Venus, Alice. Venus of the Rags. Do you recall me? I come with no tags, usually in full drag.

What can I do for you?

Please make sure you make, do, ment, and that you never bend. Take scraps, bits and pieces, never to be shredded in pieces. Be a militant, always vigilant.

Is this your vow?

Aim for the rainbow. But tell me, Alice, what was it like to fall in the hole?

I felt micro, then went macro, as the natural sped up to supernatural.”

The collection saw remnants of fabric collaged to create each look. Coats and tabards were created and worn with mini and maxi skirts made from scraps of leather and the calico that dress toilet were made from. Velvet, fragments of metal and even scraps of cotton fabric that were woven togethers by hand in a factory in Venice on looms that were originally designer by Leonardo Da Vinca.  It was all an exploration of patchwork , a collection of memories, of thoughts, and fabrics, pieced together to create one story. 

It was one those stories that left you asking yourself a question , as Risso noted, “ Are we in a psychedelic world and we need to be more grounded, or are we in a caged world and we need to be freed by psychedelia?” 

Either way the designer’s collection fell into neither the categories of grounded nor caged but in all senses was an exploration of  psychedelia from the details of glitter doused make up and hair to the precision of weaving of all the separate scraps of fabrics in a way which seamlessly harmonized them as the voices on a choir. 

Tags: , , , , ,

MFW: PRADA FW20 – A Surreal Glamour

23.02.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Designer Miuccia Prada is no stranger to the movement of feminism. She has not only covered the topic in past runway shows, but her presence in itself as one of the leading female forces in fashion is symbolic for many.

For her FW20 womenswear show the designer tackled traditional standards of what it means to be intrinsically feminine as she challenges the notion of femininity equating to softness, fragility and sensuality and proposing that this tradition delicacy can and should be what defines strength. With this in mind, she dresses her woman with the idea of finding power and strength in such paradoxes. Vents, layered fringes and deconstructed pleats reveal skin, and underscore locomotion.

Movement is tied to the corporeal , to athleticism, hence to sportswear. All these forms of everyday glamour are challenged from practical to aesthetic. Cinched waists of nylon puffer coats create a classic feline shape paired with gum boots for contrasts. The collection is a reflection of the construct of femininity, and an ode to it’s many different shapes, forms , sizes and manifestations. Each pairing , each look acts as a protest against the idea that there is a singular definition to what it means to be feminine, or what it means to be a woman. 

Tags: , , , , , ,

MFW: GUCCI FW20 – An Unrepeatable Ritual

23.02.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

For FW20, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele paid tribute to fashion shows and the production process behind seen through from the perspective of a magical ceremony.  For the show in Milan, guests entered into a backstage space built to expose all the BTS rituals of of hair , makeup and model dressers working diligently to prepare a cast of 60 faces for the show.

The show itself was staged in an arena like setting where at the centre, a carousel structure rotated 360 degrees. Each model stood still at their respective window where they donned garments which were partially inspired by pinafore dresses and school uniforms, and not long after, the entire production team took their bow as well.  

Michele :

“ I have always considered the fashion show as a magic event bursting with enchantment . A liturgical action that suspends the ordinary, loading it with an excess of intensity. A procession of epiphanies and expanded thoughts that settle into a different partition of the sensible….There’s something though, in this ceremony that usually stays buried; the struggle of the parturient that accompanies the tremble of creation; the mother’s womb where poetry blooms, from shape to shape. Therefore, I decided to unveil what lies behind the curtains. 

May the miracle of skilful hands and holding breath come out of the shadows. May the collective intelligence that takes care of gestation be visible, as shivers rage on. May that wild and crazy hive that I made my home have a throne. Because that is the home I worship; the blessed passage through which beauty comes out of its shell.”

Tags: , ,

LFW: Margaret Howell FW20 – The beauty of simplicity

17.02.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Margaret Howell’s FW20 collection was crafted around the idea of a simple elegance. The designer showcased the collection yesterday in South Bank where she stripped back from the glitz and glamour and brought out the essential parts of her maison with class and minimalism.

From box pleat skirts, to knee high socks, to a simple white t-shirt dress which opened the show. Each look was stripped back to it’s core to embrace the true values of the British fashion house. Our photographer Olivia Lifungula gave us a BTS view of what went on at the Margaret Howell FW20 show. 

Tags: , , , , ,

PRADA FW20 Womenswear Campaign – Plain Redefined As Daring Attitude

16.02.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Following the buzz of their FW20 Menswear campaign earlier this month featuring Frank Ocean, Prada centred it’s recently released womenswear campaign around the theme of the brand’s fluid identity and flexibility. Shot by photographer Jamie Hawkesworth, the campaign was featured in a similar format to the menswear, playing upon the different types of characters that inspire and define the brand.

“The paradox and contradiction inherent to Prada make easy categorization or summarization impossible: Prada is simultaneously complex and simple, singular yet multi-faceted.”

Tags: , , ,

LFW: David Koma FW20 – An Ode to British Glamour

16.02.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Images courtesy of Olivia Lifungula 

This weekend designer David Koma presented his FW20 collection as an ode to some aspects of classic British pop & contemporary culture. From a detailed  “Gherkin” building beaded on a mini dress  to the Union Jack stamped on pump heels to subtle details of the cityscape print brought out in bike apparel, and nods to Princess Di and Dame Viv with emerald jewellery and pannier skirts.  Twin ventured backstage with photographer Olivia Lifungula to get a closer look of all the key details. 

Tags: , , , ,

LFW: Vivienne Westwood FW20 – A Call for Change

15.02.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Images courtesy of Olivia Lifungula 

Many have said that Vivienne Westwood is an exemplar of one of the only rebels left in fashion, and her FW20 presentation this weekend proved just that. No words were minced. The designer crafted a collection directed towards justice, sustainability and Julian Assange.

 “I want to work with Extinction Rebellion and have Julian Assange freed,” she commented at the presentation held at the Serpentine Gallery yesterday.

The clothing spoke for themselves, or rather they screamed and protested with statements aimed towards an ironic yet effective form of fashion activism. Luckily Twin was there first hand to document every bit of it with our photographer Olivia Lifungula who captured all the details of the apparel activism initiated by the designer. 

Tags: , , , ,

MICA by Alastair McKimm – A BTS Documentary

08.02.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Contemporary British publishing house IDEA’s latest venture is in collaboration with i-D Magazine’s Editor in Chief  (EIC) on a photobook titled MICA. Comprised of 160 pages, the book is a study of Argentine model Mica Arganaraz in the obsessional style of Japanese icon books. All the images included are pulled from Alastair’s iPhone camera roll documenting the behind the scenes time line from their first meeting, to Saint Laurent campaigns, magazine editorials right up to McKimm’s tenure as EIC of i-D.

The book officially launched with a signing by Mica and Alastair at Dover street Market NY on February 10th.  MICA is currently available for pre-oder online IDEA. 

Tags: , , , ,

Twin Talks: The Versace Baroness by Sarah Baker

05.02.2020 | Art , Blog , Fashion , Literature | BY:

Multimedia artist, entrepreneur and founder of Baroness Magazine Sarah Baker recently teamed up with iconic Italian designer Donatella Versace as guest editor for the second instalment of the magazine. In a photographic storybook shot and curated by Sarah Baker, art directed by Stephen Male and styled with Versace’s collection, the artist tells a tale of glamorous yet tumultuous affairs among five characters as the dominantly females cast is tasked to work together in order to successively overcome blackmail & deceit. The scenery is set by Decor from the Versace Home collection and even served as the brand’s holiday campaign.

Twin sat down with the artist Sarah Baker to discuss inspiration and her process of realizing the issue.

What was the experience like working Donatella Versace as guest editor for BARONESS issue NO.2 ? 

Working with Donatella was amazing. I have admired her for a long time as a business woman and creative director and she has inspired my artwork for many years. Her team is superb and they have been carefully chosen by Donatella to filter the first round of decisions. When Donatella reviewed our progress, she had a fresh perspective on all the options, and I really admired her bold decisions. As an artist, it is a dream to work with an editor who is open to a lot of very outrageous ideas and willing to experiment and take risks.

You opted to go in the untraditional direction by creating a saga around female collaboration as opposed to female rivalry, what inspired this?

I think it’s about time female collaboration is not seen as groundbreaking. We were interested in reinterpreting the character of The Bitch (the title of a Jackie Collins novel that inspired Alexis Carrington). Interestingly, Collins also wrote Lucky, perhaps her most famous character, who is sexy, sassy, brilliant, and in-control. This really personifies the Versace woman, and the strong traits of our lead characters Angelina and the Baroness resonated with Donatella. My work has been about looking at how women are represented in popular media and how a woman might represent herself. As an artist, I am interested in shifting the narrative away from woman as seen from a man’s perspective, to a woman who is very much in control of her own image, and temper, and therefore abandoning Dynasty-style cat fights. Regarding my personal inspiration for female collaboration, I was also thinking about my own very close group of girlfriends—we have supported one another since early childhood.

What was your favourite aspect of the process while fabricating this issue? 

I really enjoyed solving problems with the structure of the narrative. The plot shifted so much from the very beginning, and every time a character was removed or dialogue altered, it had a ripple effect over the whole story. We started with twelve characters and twelve chapters, and due to the reality of shooting schedules and time constraints, we needed to alter the story quite a lot. It was extremely challenging to keep the story alive while maintaining logical conclusions. This problem kept me extremely excited and maybe in the end it was never fully solved, but that contributed to the ridiculousness of the narrative, which made it a little bit more funny. It was reminiscent of the TV show Soap, which is often a point of reference for my work, where the farcical narrative explodes into embellished dialogue. It is true to many fictitious dramas—most Noel Coward plays have the absurd built in—but sometimes life can actually be like that too. Or maybe it’s just my life!

Is there anything you want your viewers to take away or feel from this series? 

Humor is really important. That is another thing that was really great about working with Donatella: she has a great sense of humor. Especially at this current time when it seems like the world might blow up—politically, ecologically. It can feel very overwhelming. I personally find laughter more important than ever right now.

Do you have ideas or clues you can give on what may be in store for the next BARONESS issue? 

Something fabulously sexy and witty, like everything published by Baron and Baroness.

Where can one purchase the book ?

The Baroness is available online at baronmagazine.com.

Tags: , , , ,

GIVENCHY SS20 features Marc Jacobs & Charlotte Rampling

03.02.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

For Spring Summer 2020, French Maison Givenchy revisits its signature “couple” theme with its most iconic pairing yet. 

Charlotte Rampling and Marc Jacobs face the brand’s campaign with a story shot by photographer Craig McDean under the direction of the house’s Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller. The duo is shot “celebrating the individualistic beauty and the liberated, self assured attitude so emblematic of Givenchy,” as so reads the press release. 

Both are decked in full looks and accessories from the Givenchy SS20 collection styled to honour each icon’s personal style. Charlotte is pictured sporting more masculine pieces while Jacobs flaunts a more feminine style. In the short video, the two are captured in their elements in a fascinating scene as they exercise their acting skills with a series of improv. Givenchy SS20 , is currently in stores. 

Tags: , , , ,

Fred Perry x The Museum Of Youth Culture: From Bedrooms to Basements

31.01.2020 | Art , Blog , Culture , Fashion | BY:

Cover image by Tony Othen-Bede Association

In collaboration with the Museum of Youth Culture, British brand Fred Perry has  announced the launch of two in-store take overs with the emerging museum in two of their London locations. The aim of the project is to inspire future generations to make an impact on the world around them, and the first installation is under the theme “From Bedrooms to Basements.” 

This takeover is an ode to scenes and sounds made by young people within the last 100 years, which will be displayed through a compilation of crowdsourced photography as well as images from the original archive of Fred Perry. 

The space will also be interactive with a DIY Scanning booths, allowing its audience the chance to participate. 

The Fred Perry x Museum of Youth Culture project is currently in motion in Fred Perry’s Camden & Henrietta Street stores.

Image by Sharon Long

Tags: , ,

FENDI’s #BaguetteFriendsForever ft. Naomi Watanabe & Tommy Dorfman

30.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

FENDI’s latest Baguette Friends Forever episode features one of their most dynamic duos yet. Japanese comedian Naomi Watanabe and American actor Tommy Dorfman are shot in a split screen film as they both prepare for the FENDI Women’s Spring/Summer 2020 fashion show in Milan.

Regardless of having not previously met, the two are shot completing their similar morning routines which includes picking out their favoured Baguette. They eventually meet at the FENDI Milanese HQ where they discover themselves to be seating neighbours. From then , a new friendship is born, as they’re shot chatting and having coffee with the FENDI baguette in hand.  The protagonists of the film are of course the FENDI baguettes which are featured in the regular version in Pequin with a distinctive FENDI signature logo-no-logo pattern, as well as a powder-pink Selleria leather version, newly added to menswear in yellow and white shades. 

The brand first launched the campaign #BaguetteFriendsForever earlier this year which included a series of short films featuring the storylines of inseparable groups of friends around the world throughout one of their daily routines which is centred around the iconic Fendi baguette introduced on the seasonal runways . All pieces are currently available in stores worldwide and online, to shop the looks , visit Fendi.

Tags: , , ,

Alexander McQueen SS20 Campaign

28.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Alexander McQueen recently released their Spring Summer RTW 2020 Campaign shot by Jamie Hawkesworth. The campaign features faces Vivien Solari, Felice Noordhoof and Imaan Homaam elegantly posed by the seaside.  

“Each look tells its own story. The connection between the clothes is the time it took to make them. I was interested in clarity and paring things down, in the essence of garments – stripping back to the toile. I love the idea of people having the time to make things together, the time to meet and talk together, the time to reconnect with the world.” Sarah Burton Creative director.

Tags: , ,

The Wedding Edit: by Matches Fashion

27.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Cover Image : Givenchy Earrings, Christopher Kane Coat at MATCHESFASHION, Photographer Eddie Wrey

This month British global luxury retailer MATCHES Fashion launched a bridal branch of it’s enterprise called The Wedding Edit. The section is dedicated to modern wedding and event dressing pieces featuring designs with the flexibility to be worn more than once. The grand archive includes 30 bespoke collections and over 250 uniques pieces created by designers specially for the launch.  All these are divided into six sections inspired by the characters of different customer muses: Romantic, The Fashion Pioneer, The Curator, The Free Spirit, The Purist and The Warrior.  Garments have been designed by names like Cecilie Bahnsen, Christopher Kane, Jil Sander, Jacquemus , Loewe , Maison Margiela, Liu Miu, The Row, Vivienne Westwood and many others. 

“We have noticed an increase in sales across our evening wear and modern tailoring categories, particularly in monochrome tones. We wanted to create a dedicated area where our clients can find unique pieces for their wedding and special events that can be worn again for many years to come. We are thrilled to partner with some of our favourite designers on special collections for the launch, from Christopher Kane, Erden and Giles to Stephen Jones and Molly Goddard,” commented Natalie Kingham , Fashion Buying Director. 

The Wedding  & Events dressing edit will be updated with regular delivery drops all year round to appeal to customers around the globe.

Alighieri Earrings at MATCHESFASHION, Photographer Eddie Wrey

Tags: , , , , ,

FENDI #MeAndMyPeekaboo ft. Yan Ni and Zou Yuanqing

23.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

In the latest #MeAndMyPeekaboo series, FENDI taps Chinese actress Yan Ni to star in an episode with her daughter Zou Yuanquing to tell the tales of their unique family bond, ringing in the Chinese New Year the FENDI way. Yan Ni rose to fame as a comic actress and she is a fun both on and off screen. My Own Swordsman starred by her has become a classic Chinese TV series, while outside the series, Yan Ni is now telling her own family story. The episode follows her throughout her journey with her Fendi  Peekaboo bag in Nappa leather and the glittering rose gold sequin Peekaboo accompany mother and daughter in their journey, continuing the narrative of the #MeAndMyPeekaboo Series and celebrating the unique bond between mother and daughter.

The  #MeAndMyPeekaboo series began last year featuring 10 iconic women across the world which included names like Kim Kardashian, Kris Jenner and North West. Each episode includes versions of the Peekaboo bags which have been seen on the latest runways.  To shop the Peekaboo visit Fendi.

Tags: , , ,

MFW Men’s: Fendi’s FW20 Man of The Future

17.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Men’s Fall Winter 2020-21 marked the dawn of a fresh new direction for creative director Silvia Venturini Fendi. This season, guests were invited to the FENDI headquarters in Milan to witness the presentation of Madam Fendi described as the man of tomorrow. With this notion, she crafted a collection with retro-futurist undertones. The goal was to approach menswear and clothing on a whole from an entirely different perspective, seeing a garment as a body wallet.

A vessel which can and should evolve throughout time. Inside – out constructions and quilting were traced across blazers, coats cut in compact matte satin and outerwear shapes in waterproof gabardine were bonded with felt tabs and FENDI Roma taped seams. There was a sort of gender fluidity throughout the collection, as some jackets were cropped and  a few pants were tailored to move like skirts. 

The house also debuted pieces of their collaboration with Japanese designer Anrealage who added a selection of photochromic outerwear and accessories that transform with the FF logo when exposed to UV sunlight.

Tags: , ,

Tallawah: A Jamaican story by Jawara & Nadine Ijewere

17.01.2020 | Art , Beauty , Blog , Culture , Fashion | BY:

Later this month photographer Nadine Ijewere and hair stylist Jawara will reveal an exhibition titled Tallawah in collaboration with Dazed Beauty at the Cob Gallery in London.

The showcase takes it’s name from the Jamaican patois word Tallawah, which means small but nonetheless fearless and strong-willed. Throughout the exhibition, Jawara explores his childhood of growing up in Kingston during the peak of Dancehall culture and the influence of creativity in the fashion & hairstyling by the women around him. For photographer Nadine Ijewere, she dives into her Nigerian-Jamaican heritage and aims to paint an image of the stories shared by her mother about the island of Jamaica. 

“This project is very close to my heart,” said Ijewere in a statement. “It was empowering to be able to explore part of my heritage by photographing these beautiful, strong people. The relationship between hair and identity is one I wanted to capture and celebrate – it’s a story that’s important to tell.”

Jawara added: “Small but Strong. Likkle but Tallawah. The strength and beauty of Jamaica.”

Tallawah opens it’s doors at the Cob Gallery in London on January 23rd and will run until February 1st. 

Tags: , , , , , ,

MFW Men’s: Prada’s FW20 Contradictions and Dichotomies

14.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This menswear season, creative director Miuccia Prada was conflicted, stuck between contradictions and dichotomies as the theme for her FW20 menswear collection.

Guests were invited into the classic PRADA space in Milan, which was transformed by AMO into two identical voids. Situating the audience above looking down on the depths of a colourful arena like runway with a white statue of a man on a horse centrestage.  The collection itself was a bridge between opposites: new & old, past & present. Madam Prada played on the notion of creating classic menswear with subtle touches of modernity. Some models donned full three piece linen suits white others sported versions of the house’s classic nylon fits.

There were stylised gumboots, leather & shearling vests and a flash of pajama patterns in liking to the work of artists during the Vienna Secessions which signalled towards the finale (these are bound to be a hit by Prada fanatics ). This season the designer took the time to deliver a collection which she described as optimistic and valuable. 

“ I thought to give an indication that only thing that makes me calm and optimistic is to give value to work… to give value to things that matter any our life and your work, and so the creativity is mixed with technicalities, which is a little bit similar to the Secessionist period when ideas, creativity, and actual work had to be all together,” she explained. 

Tags: , , ,

MFW Men’s: Alexander McQueen’s FW20 Sartorial Romance

14.01.2020 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

For the first time, British fashion house Alexander McQueen presented it’s menswear collection during Milan Fashion Week earlier this week. 

For FW20, creative director Sarah Jane Burton, created poetry, and no, this is not in referral to the violinists who welcomed guests into the space with their ever so elegant strums, but rather in regards to the symphonious binding of fabrics and tailoring carried out throughout the collection. 

Many may argue that classic menswear in its purest form is a straight line, a linear scale of techniques and patterns that must be followed and abided by at all costs. Yet with this collection, it is as if Burton breaks up the parts of a puzzle, and pieces them back together in an entirely different way no one knew was possible. 

With inspiration from Northern landscapes , the designer crafted a collection of razor tailored razor sharps suits , and doubled breasted overcoats  inspired by minerals rocks and stones. Coats and jackets were rendered in grey sharkskin mohair and black wool are spliced and slashed, echoing the lines of military harnessing. Panels from classic military coats cut into signature tailoring and camel overcoats. 

Each look was made and styled with an intricate level of artistry. An added touch were are the silk suits and coats that were printed with an engineered artwork of Henry Moore, Three-Quarter Figure 1928, reproduced courtesy of the Henry Moore Foundation. 

A few pieces were created in reference to the house’s SS20 womenswear collection like some of the shoes and a few accessories. Nonetheless, the designer’s approach to menswear is a breath of fresh air for the industry. Serving as the perfect example that there is no one way of creating elegance, no one way of creating menswear, the options are not limited to classic or street but is open to a vast variety of undiscovered proposals. 

Tags: , , ,