The PFW Lookback Part II

09.10.2012 | Blog | BY:

In Part I, we covered what the one and only C trio (Chanel, Christian Dior, Comme Des Garcons) churned out, but from Haider Ackermann’s dreamy midnight-coloured collection to Marc Jacob’s retro mania, Paris Fashion Week still had a wide array of other intriguing collections to take in. Read on for Twin’s final list of favourites this S/S 13 season…

 

Stella McCartney

Considering the fact that she has collaborated with the likes of Adidas, no one does sporty quite like Stella. Energetic bursts of neon orange peaked out underneath a sheer silk sweatshirt whilst black and white printed strapless jumpsuits and oversized shirt-dresses were given an easygoing slouch thanks to a dropped waistline, all topped off with surprisingly wearable Lucite platforms. McCartney described the collection as “a conversation between a man and a woman” and thanks to the relaxed and loose-fitting silhouettes, there was something there for the elegant tomboy in every one of us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Haider Ackermann

This S/S 13 season, man of the moment Haider Ackermann gave us something to dream about. Sheer silk and lace were wrapped around the body with the designer’s trademark fluid draping, in nighttime sky colours of ivory, midnight blue, black and a shimmering dark grey. A first was the use of geometric prints and polka dots, but even these rather atypical elements were melded into the harmonious collection. It’s safe to say that there are countless more breathtakingly beautiful collections like this one to come on Ackermann’s horizon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Balenciaga

After an eighties, sci-fi flashback, this season saw a more formal Balenciaga woman come to the forefront. Nicolas Ghesquière may have constrained his colour palette to mostly black, white, nude, and charcoal colours but thanks to ruffled thigh-high cuts and plenty of upper midriff exposure, the sex appeal was as much there as ever. From the first pair of front-pleated, high waisted trousers to the last coated guipure lace dress, it  was a testament to the fact that even without the futuristic drama, Ghesquière is more than capable of getting, and keeping, our attention.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Louis Vuitton

Marc Jacobs has become the designer of Paris you can count on for a complete fashion 180, and this season was no exception. In an ode to Diane Arbus, Marc Jacobs sent his Sixties styled models in pairs of two down the escalator and runway, matched up in Vuitton’s signature damier print. The silhouettes were streamlined, the hemlines decade-appropriately short and the fit body skimming. The main inspiration of the collection may have been from another era, but Jacobs managed to successfully reincarnate the look for 2013.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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LN-CC X S/S12

20.06.2012 | Blog , Culture , Fashion | BY:

After nearly two years hidden among the miscellany of rundown shops and hip bars of Dalston, LN-CC have proved themselves as one of London’s most exciting fashion destinations.

Always innovating, LN-CC have released a short film to celebrate S/S12 drawing to a close that features key pieces by Ann Demeulemeester, Haider Ackermann and Damir Doma.

Twin caught up with assistant buyer Jack Cassidy to talk present and future LN-CC…

How long have you been part of the LN-CC team?
I’ve been with LN-CC since August 2010, which was before we launched the website in September and store in November.

What were your favourite pieces from last season?
This season I’m mainly wearing pieces from Jil Sander, Damir Doma, Comme Homme Plus and a selection from our Japanese brands.

What can LN-CC fans look forward to next in store?
For AW12 we have picked up some new brands that I am really looking forward to arriving. For women’s Lucas Nascimento’s collection is very interesting – especially all of the interesting knit techniques and fabrications. So is the tailoring and outerwear from Kolor which is new for AW12 and we are the only UK stockist.

Accessories wise, the footwear from Cherevichkiotvichki is fantastic and new for us this season. All of the leather is tanned by a long and natural process – using tree bark rather than chemicals and the skins are finished in a small tannery in Tuscany, Italy. The leather is shave numerous times to achieve the faded look and the perfect colour season and is a rather unusual thickness (similar to molding or saddle leather). We’ve also got lots more accessories, men’s and women’s brands that we are pleased to have on board – it’s shaping up to be a great season.

Who would be your up and coming must buy?
It’s hard to say but I think Haider Ackermann is a great brand to be buying right now – his draping, tailoring and palette are very strong and his aesthetic is incomparable. But if it has to be up-and-coming I would say Lucas Nascimento. I think his attention to detail, quality and execution means that (despite being a young label) if he continues to develop his aesthetic he is heading in the direction of establishing a solid high-end brand.

What’s the soundtrack to working at LN-CC?
At the moment it’s Phil Manzanera as we are in the run up to launching a special release with him. The Zsou – Written in dust/Wild Honey release that we launched a few weeks ago also gets a regular play.

What are your top Dalston haunts for day and night?
Most of my time in Dalston is spent looking for somewhere new to go for lunch and then reverting to regular haunts such as Mouse De Lotz, DeBeavoir Deli and Bardens.

Describe LN-CC’s customer?
We tend not to define our customer or think to much about who they are. But we do see them mixing the mainline brands with the smaller and more street wear-inspired Japanese or London designers as that is the way we wear the product ourselves. We hope too that they have an interest in the different areas of LN-CC such as the clothing, books and music.

ln-cc.com

LN-CC FILM: SS12 006 from LN-CC on Vimeo.

 

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Raf Simons X Dior

10.04.2012 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Ever since John Galliano’s departure from Dior in March last year, the fashion industry has been playing its own game of ‘designer ping – pong’ bouncing names back and forth in speculation as to who will take the creative reigns of the Parisian couture house. Jacobs – Tisci – Ackermann – Jacobs – Simons – Kane – Ackermann – Simons… It went on.

However after a year-long debate the rumours were finally put to rest yesterday as LVMH CEO, Bernard Arnault, announced that Raf Simons will take over as Artistic Director. Having left his previous post as Creative Director at Jil Sander earlier this year, Simons will commence work at his new design home with immediate effect, preparing for what will be his first Dior collection, which will be showcased at Couture Fashion Week in Paris this July.

Words: Sarah Barlow

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