Fashion East Fall-Winter 2019

19.02.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last weekend passed this year’s first Fashion East showcase which featured a list of three intriguing London based emerging designers, in showcase of their Fall Winter 2019 Collections. The non-profit initiative, set up by Lulu Kennedy and Old Truman Brewery to support and nurture emerging British talent celebrates its 18th year of triumph after housing designers such as JW Anderson, Kim Jones and Gareth Pugh; just to name a few.

Central Saint Martins graduate Gareth Wrighton was one of the three talents to showcase. Wrighton presented a 22 look collection in collaboration with stylist Ib Kamara titled “Smooth Criminal.” The collection was inspired by a four month residency the designer previously took in Johannesburg with Kamara and South African photographer Kristin Lee Moolman. It cohesively spoke to the stories of political coups, warring dynasties and feuding families caught in a violent power struggle. The looks included flaming hair, bullet accessorised mini dresses and sweaters with burning forests. The collection in itself was nothing short of a political statement. 

Gareth Wrighton AW19 | Image via Chris Yates
Gareth Wrighton AW19 | Image via Chris Yates

In 2017 Designer Charlotte Knowles and partner Alexandre Arsenault launched their South London label Charlotte Knowles London after also completing their masters at Central Saint Martins. Designing for a feminine and strong woman, in the AW19 collection, Knowles explores femininity and ready to wear in a way which disrupts traditional boundaries. Boundaries between the vulnerable and the combative, the human and the natural, the intimate and the public and the strange and familiar. The collection featured wool and technically crafted fabrics, made in soft pastel colours from form fitting, to minimal to fluid.  This was the designers’ final showcase with the support of the Fashion East Initiative .

Charlotte Knowles AW19 | Image via Chris Yates
Charlotte Knowles AW19 | Image via Chris Yates
Charlotte Knowles AW19 | Image via Chris Yates

The final collection was that of Chinese CSM trained designer Yuhan Wang whose collection was inspired by traditional Chinese concepts of femininity and their connections to western culture. She explored the lines between beauty and strangeness , softness, delicacy and sensibility. In her second season showcasing for the Fashion East initiative, Wang’s pieces were made in silk satins, lace, velvet and tulle in ripple technique to flounce around the female form. She presented sheath and tea dresses in a 3 Dimensional way where her ruches and other artistically danced around the body. “ I think of it as the push and pull we experience as women. The constant dialogue between our inner and outer worlds,” says wang.  With soft colours of blue, lilac and primrose yellow, the designer pieced together a cohesive collection which told an impactful and interesting story. 

Yuhan Wang AW19 | Image via Chris Yates
Yuhan Wang AW19 | Image via Chris Yates
Yuhan Wang AW19 | Image via Chris Yates

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Upcycling fabric, unravelling memories: Renata Brenha

15.02.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

“Today we are so surrounded by waste. For me I really like when the material has a story. It is like animating something that is currently inanimate: if you put it in a new context it always has this spirit! Especially for our times, we have so much waste and we need to do something about it.”

Renata Brenha is a designer of precision and feeling. Her debut collection, showcasing at London Fashion Week, puts to work this meticulous and formulated explorations of her Latin American heritage, her fascination with Mexico and a pre-occupation with material and its consumption.

Her clothes attempt to catch a spirit, an attitude, of the communities she explores: utilising the silhouette and work with cloth to translate these nuances. There is always a translation – its important the way I work with fabric: pleating, painting, reimagining – but I always want to capture that spirit. 

I love performance, and clothes have that ritualistic space. You are in that moment, you are that person. 

Each item of her 16 look collection holds an anecdote – I like to feel them as individuals! – which is retold through their cut. The tales range from the Grandma dress, made with studio scraps from the pattern of a dress her grandmother decreed as perfect; the coat-trouser coagulation – there is a Mexican saying “a courageous woman is someone who knows how to wear her trousers”; to her tights top, a reworked version of the improvised thermals her mother created to keep Renata warm in the winter months of her hometown just outside Sao Paolo. 

Workwear is weaved throughout the collection – when you travel to Mexico to see communities you see workwear half-references through their natural dress. Traditional clothing with something intuitive about putting things together. I love canvas, it’s something that really tells the passage of time. There is always a story behind it: when you put it behind a female body the story changes that I find so interesting too. 

While saved for the presentation itself, headdresses are to be made by a gardener, Luciano. Initially Renata wanted the headdresses to be more dangerous, more testing (initially thinking of cactus) but after looking at images by Claudia Andujar, and the ritualistic energy from her feather headdresses, Luciano felt he could create something similar with moss. 

The moss comes together with braids in the hair intertwining, much like the fabric, cuts and reference points.

Renata’s heavy referencing of Mexico came about from the desire to visit a place that she could relate to through the Spanish language, but also look from a distance. Mexico felt like home but also really fresh – a little bit of space but still a connection. She found a lot of affinities with her own home of Latin America: both holding relationships with mysticism and improvisation. 

A colour palette deeply entrenched in blacks, whites and blues give clarity and corners to her garments: the smocking, the hand painting, the deliberate reworking. While her shapes are anthropomorphic, and her vision is cut from a refreshing cloth, Renata has just begun her brand – here’s to her future fables of fabric.

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Bottega Veneta Spring Summer 2019 Campaign

14.02.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Earlier this month Italian fashion house Bottega Veneta released fresh new images for their Spring Summer 2019 campaign. Marking the first campaign for the brand under the new creative direction of Daniel Lee.

The designer was appointed in June, which allowed him means he missed the opportunity for the design process of the SS19 collection but was still able to edit it. However the creative direction of the campaign was solely led by his vision. The previous Céline designer teamed up with photographer Tyrone LeBon to present a selection of images influenced by minimalism and Italian coasts. Shot on the Neapolitan island of Ischia, the images are said to strip fashion and art down to their purest forms in a way which highlights and appreciates their similarities. A black trench coat, woven leather, knit, squared toed pumps. The campaign was a sort of visual documentary on the relationship between skin and material. This peek of the designer’s taste and appreciation for beauty is just enough to gather him an audience of eager new consumers leading up to his debut show later this month, especially during this time when old Céline consumers are scouting elsewhere. 

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Fendi’s “One and Only Baguette” ft. Carrie Bradshaw

05.02.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

For the final installation of Fendi’s #BaguetteFriendsForever series, the Italian fashion house released a short film shot along the busy streets of the big apple titled “The One and Only Baguette.” The movie, features  influencers Caro Daur and Natasha Lau along with models Ebonee Davis and Melissa Martinez. During a lunch break, Daur relives the moment she saw a unique vintage purple sequinned Baguette at the Fendi store and decides she just will not live without it. On a hunt for the baguette, the girl group hurries back to the store where they discover that the piece was just sold. Still determined to cop the  accessory , the girls run out into the busy streets of New York to find this mystery woman. During their search they spot the baguette and when she turns around they notice it’s not just a woman, but an icon, Sarah Jessica Parker, who finishes the film with a sassy,  “This isn’t a bag, it’s a baguette.” 

Last week the brand launched the campaign #BaguetteFriendsForever which includesd a series of short films featuring the storylines of inseparable groups of friends around the world throughout one of their daily routines which is centered around the iconic Fendi baguette. The first episode was titled “The Baguette is Back” and was an adventure set in the streets of Shanghai China. The second episode Titled “The Missing Baguette,” was shot in Hong Kong and this marks the final leg off the Baguette series. All pieces are currently available in stores worldwide and online, to shop the looks , visit Fendi.

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Twin Magazine presents “Twin X” : Jan 31 – Feb 02

04.02.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

This week Twin Magazine opens our doors in London to a group exhibition  entitled “Twin X” which celebrates a decade of local emerging talent and creativity.  The showcase, which opens on January 31st at The Store X in East London, pulls on the visual archive of our biannual print publication featuring the works of several creatives throughout the industries of fashion, photography and art. Collectively curated by Twin Founder Becky Smith; Twin art editor and curator Francesca Gavin; curator and gallerist Antonia Marsh; image director Holly Hay and Twin fashion editor Naomi Miller, the exhibition is an amalgamation of the personal taste and perspective of each curator. 

It is a display which collectively showcases specially-commissioned editorial images that focus on independence and individualism, which are themes that have been carried throughout the magazine since it’s conception in 2009. 

“As publications have come under increased pressure to compromise over the last decade, Twin has remained a distinct and independent platform for pure creativity. The show celebrates the artists that have helped shaped and define independent publishing as it stands today, ” says Founder Becky Smith.

With work from photographers such as Stef Mitchell, Cass Bird, Boo George, Bibi Cornejo Borthwick, Dexter Navy and Akinola Davies Jr, the show deconstructs a central narrative into four sections: Photographers, Models, People and the Unseen. Exploring the thoughts behind these characters, faces and creatives who are defining the nature of contemporary creativity. The Unseen section of the exhibition will also feature never-before-seen outtake shots from the magazine’s photographic archive, providing spectators with a rare insight into the world of image-making and its process. Twin X features free admission and concludes on February 3, 2019. 


Photograph by Yaniv Edry, Issue 19, 2018.

Photograph by Akinola Davies Jr., Issue 19, 2018.

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Fendi’s Missing Baguette – #BFF

02.02.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This weekend in continuation with the Fendi #BaguetteFriendsForever series, the Italian luxury brand released the second installation of the sequence which is set along the vibrant streets of Hong Kong. Titled “The Missing Baguette,” the film features Taiwanese DJ Dizzy Dizzo, Singapore-based fashion IT-girl Yoyo Cao, Japanese model Hikari More and Korean DJ Peggy Gou on the hunt in Hong Kong for Hiraki’s lost Baguette which she accidentally leaves at Fendi store while shopping for new merch. 

Last week the brand launched the campaign #BaguetteFriendsForever which includes a series of short films featuring the storylines of inseparable groups of friends around the world throughout one of their daily routines which is centered around the iconic Fendi baguette. The first episode was titled “The Baguette is Back” and was an adventure set in the streets of Shanghai China. To be released next week is the final episode which features the backdrop of the Big Apple and a special guest too. Stayed tuned for more. To shop the looks , visit Fendi.

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The Return of The Fendi Baguette

24.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

As we reported earlier this season from the SS19 runways, the Fendi Baguette has officially made its comeback.

The history of the baguette dates as far back to 1997 when Silvia Venturini Fendi first made the pitch for a smaller bag in a time where larger bags were leading the market. Of course the feedback the designer received from the idea was not initially positive but nevertheless she stuck with her guts and released the first baguette on the runways of 1997. Initially it was offered with small straps and the double F logos in brown. Since then it has made it’s way from the late 90’s throughout the Sex and The City Era of the 2000’s in additional styles. And it’s now safe to say it is officially back and has made its return with a fabulous intro.

This week the Italian fashion label has launched their latest campaign #BaguetteFriendsForever which includes a series of short films featuring the storylines of inseparable groups of friends around the world throughout one of their daily routines which is centered around the iconic baguette. The first episode, released only yesterday, is titled “The Baguette is Back” and is shot along the vibrant streets of Shangai, China. It stars movie actresses Tan Zhuo and Qiao Xin along with influencers Yu Wei and Yoyo who are filmed during their venture of a girls night out. The movie starts with the women shopping for baguettes and wardrobe at the Fendi store inside IAPM Mall in preparation for a night at the club. Each film carries it’s own style with a slight hint of humour to top it off with Groove Armanda’s My Friend as their soundtrack.  To be released later this month, are also two upcoming films featuring the baguettes’ ventures of Hong Kong and New York. Stayed tuned for more, and visit Fendi to shop. 

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Prada’s Old Hollywood Spring-Summer 2019 Campaign

23.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

For their Spring Summer 2019 campaign, Italian fashion house Prada tackles the concept of duality in a video series shot and directed by Will Vanderperre featuring looks from both their women’s and men’s SS19 runway. The series was inspired by classic Hollywood movies and is approached as such.

It features the likes of top models Freja Beha Erichsen, Gigi Hadid, Maine Inga, Liu Wen and Anok Yai re-named after Prada’s supporting cast of accessories: respectively Sybille, Sidone, Margit, Odette and Belle inspired by iconic female cinematic icons. These women are also accompanied by three male characters played by models Daan Duez, Jonas Gloer and Tae Min. The campaign’s direction is a play on an iconic genre of cinematography: everything is familiar, but not too much, all holds a double meaning. Movie star?or model? Menswear? or womenswear? This series is created to guarantee you a few double-takes upon viewing. And like any other movie, it’s accompanied by posters directed by Benoit Debie which hints at the imagery and narrative of the films leaving one curious enough to explore the reflections and refractions of the collection.  The campaign boasts seven short films, which will be released throughout January and February on Prada.

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V & A : “Christian Dior, Designer of Dreams”

21.01.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

On February 2nd, London based Victoria and Albert Museum will open the doors to the largest comprehensive exhibition to be staged in the UK on the fashion house of Dior. Titled “Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams,” this exhibition will trace the impact of one of the 20th century’s most influential couturiers while exploring the works of the six artistic directors who succeeded him. Although based on the major exhibition “Christian Dior: Couturier du Reve,” at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the showcase is reimagined for the V & A by curator Oriole Cullen and includes a brand new section which explores the designers fascination with British culture. 

“There is no other country in the world, besides my own, whose way of life I like so much. I love English traditions, English politeness, English architecture. I even love English cooking,” a quote from Christian Dior. The designer deeply admired the British  way of life, even his first fashion show took place at London’s Savoy Hotel and he then later established the brand as Christian Dior London. 

The exhibition also gives insight to Dior’s creative collaborations with jewellers, shoemakers, and glove makers as well as a focus on some of his earliest elite clients. These include author Nancy Mitford, dancer Margot Fonteyn and a special highlight of the Christian Dior dress worn by Princess Margaret for her 21st birthday. The exhibition will presents over 500 objects and over 200 rare Haute Couture garments displayed alongside the designer’s personal possessions. The show will reveal the sources of inspiration which help define the Dior aesthetic, from the intricate designs of Yves Saint Laurent to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s feminist vision. The showcase will be held across 11 sections which include titles such as The Dior Line, Dior In Britain, Historicism, Travels, among others. Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams opens February 2nd until July 14th , to book your tickets visit V & A.

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Milan FW: Fendi Men’s FW19, Contemporary Tailoring

15.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last weekend guests were invited to the  Milanese headquarters of Italian fashion house Fendi for the presentation of their Fall Winter 2019 menswear collection.

For Spring Summer we were presented with a  collection where Venturini drew inspiration from one of the main men in her life, her son-in-law Nico Vascellari, a performance and visual artist who according to her “transforms himself on the stage,” revealing several facets fo himself including a dark side. From this came a collection of light and dark which featured shorts, fanny packs, buckets hats and other streetwear like pieces. However for this season, the creative director chose to muse upon one of the more, or if you dare say, the most tailored male figure in her life. Karl Lagerfeld was the guest artist in this season’s collection to which he contributed to physically and creatively. 

“I have never seen him wearing sportswear; he is always wearing tailoring in a contemporary way, ” stated Venturini Fendi, which was exactly what represented the theme carried throughout the collection, — “tailoring done in a contemporary way.”

Upon entry, guests were treated to the scenery of a black and gold replica of Karl Lagerfeld’s personal Parisian library.  Then came the models who were clad in classic tailored pieces which made them seem like wealthy fashionable modern day librarians. Tuxedos and shirts were made in organza and accessorised with gold chains, there were puffer parkers and jumpers made in two different colours, high collared shirts and asymmetrical double-breasted suits all made with a palette of black, beige, brown, accents of red, blue and a calligraphic version of the FF logo. 

Most looks were accompanied by several forms of baggage which included Fendi logo-ed briefcases, trunks and newly introduced male versions of the brand’s iconic Peekaboo bag and Baguette. The man  created throughout this collection was a tailored contrast to the street-like Fendi man previously seen, but he was in fact a character who wore timeless well-made pieces flexible enough to pull out the closet during any season of the year.  Visit Fendi for more. 

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YVES Saint Laurent Summer 2019 Campaign

14.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

For the Spring Summer 2019 runway show Yves Saint Laurent had their models walk on water in a black infinity pool near the Eiffel Tower. This was the making of high glamour seductive woman unafraid to make a splash with her black 6-inch stilettos. For their latest campaign, under the direction of Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello, the brand tapped German photographer Juergen Teller as they brought this woman by the waters of Lake Como for a smoking series of alluring shots. The campaign features Danish model Freja Beha Erichsen, along with Abbey Lee, Julia Nobbis and Mica Arganaraz wearing daring pieces from the collection including asymmetrical dresses, thigh high stockings and mesh tops complimented by drop earrings, silver headbands and of course the classic YSL open toe stiletto. For more visit YSL.

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Milan FW: MSGM FW19 Men’s , TURBO!

14.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last men’s season Italian designer Massimo Giorgetti welcomed his audience to volleyball courtside for the viewing of a collection inspired by the beachy sport. However for FW19 , Giorgetti had a rather more dangerous impulse for the inspiration behind the latest collection. The art of motor racing culture and the adrenaline from the velocity behind it was his sole focus this season. “MSGM is evolving. Speed has always been at our heart, the fast passion of life. What do we do as we grow? We go faster,” to quote the man himself.

The collection was aptly titled TURBO and featured graphic pieces inspired by the thrilling qualities of the world of motor racing. It included knitted jumpers and t-shirt with the slogans “more speed” and “run away”, bright coloured parkas and trucker jackets, wide cut denim cargo pants inspired by pit crew uniforms, motorsport newspaper stories printed on coats and of course the customary reference to Milan with an embroidered blouse of the Duomo’s skyline. The collection was a rather tailored offering to the table of streetwear as was included a selection of double breasted blazers and wool coats complimented by both sneakers and formal footwear. See more at MSGM.

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Milan FW: Sunnei FW 19, Maximal Minimalism

14.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last season designers Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo launched the womenswear branch to their minimalistic Italian label Sunnei in commitment to their vision of building a worldwide community amongst the brand’s fan base. For FW19 , the brand invited guests to an airy liberty-styled white room in Milan called Palazzo del Ghiaccio (translates to ice palace) which was previously used for ice skating. 

The location itself accurately represented the brand’s aesthetic, it was large and simple but procured an admirable level of architecture. The seating arrangement dispersed the fashion hierarchy by not featuring second or third rows but a simple maze of seats which placed each guest at a reasonable distance from the passageways. This was quite unlike what any other brand would do which was exactly the brand’s major message of the season. They presented a collection which made you note that they were not designers who follow guidelines or go off trends but rather create their own. With inspiration from personal experiences throughout high school and college, the duo crafted a collection of women’s and menswear featuring flared trousers, bumpster pants, knit sweaters and blouses, and pastel colored pieces. It included standout pieces such as a sweater with a pixelated meadow and cloud landscape from the Windows 98 OS background along with interesting versions of their classic boots and sneakers. The 41-look collection was very ‘Sunnei.’ Each look contained the brand’s special ingredient of maximal minimalism with small grains of nostalgia carefully sprinkled. Visit Sunnei for more. 

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Milan FW: M.1992 FW19-20

13.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This season, M.1992 designer Dorian Tarantini referenced the allure of the past as major inspiration behind the FW19 menswear collection presented yesterday in central Milan. The designer invited guests to a 60’s inspired vintage ballroom in a corporate Milanese hotel as he revealed a collection which although gave nods to the swinging sixties, was aimed at the upcoming generation, Gen Z. It began with big hair, flared sleeves and pants,  and continued with full patterned looks leading into Baracuta jackets and tailored blazers. Also included was an ode to Britain, as the designer paid tribute by including printed designs of the British flag and signature British style throughout a few pieces, which he states in his show notes, does not act as a form of appropriation, but rises from an authentic sense of belonging having been a frequent traveler between the two worlds as a child.  As his fourth official season on the scene, Tarantini is finally beginning to establish a design voice which speaks for itself, the collection was one which not only felt cohesive, but also held strong evident traits of brand personality.

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Hanna Moon & Joyce Ng: English as a Second Language

09.01.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

English creative hub Somerset House has recently tapped two of fashion’s headlining Asian photographers Hanna Moon and Joyce Ng for the conception of an upcoming exhibition entitled ‘English as a Second Language.’  The exhibition, set to open on January 25th, will be driven mainly by the work of these two Asian-born London-based photographers. It will offer a series of images with an interesting perspective, which shall incorporate cultural signifiers, set design and of course fashion as they present their take on Western aesthetics and fashion ideals. While at the same time bringing distinct Asian perspective to their works and challenging the concept of “otherness” to reflect upon the power fashion photography holds in shaping our general perceptions of beauty style and taste. Curated by Shonagh Marshall,  ‘English as a Second Language’ is set to be arranged across three rooms. The first of which visitors will be welcomed by the works of Hannah Moon in her series called ‘Heejin and Moffy’ where she uses the architecture of the Somerset House to capture the imagery of the models who respectively hail from South Korea and London in a dramatic re-imagination of Somerset’s neoclassical setting. The exhibition will then continue with the work of Joyce Ng , whose speciality is working with street casted models and natural environments. She will present a body of work which features a cast from the House’s community across a six week period as she invited visitors to take part in on-site shootings. The series will include inspiration from renowned Chinese novel Journey to the West, which the photographer selected participants to embody each character from the novel within the hidden public spaces of Somerset House. The exhibition  will also feature an extensive wardrobe from iconic names such as Vivienne Westwood, Phillip Treacy, Molly Goddard, Yohji Yamamoto among others.  For further details check out Somerset. 

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Coach Spring 2019 – A Western Road Trip

04.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

To ring in the new year, American luxury accessory house Coach, launches their global campaign for the Spring 2019 collection today. The collection features floral print dresses, ruffled blouses and dresses, and of course some of the brand’s signature bags — the Parker Top Handle and the Patchwork Dreamer. Coach ambassadors Kiki Mizuhara and Guan Xiaotong and models Adut Akech, Fran Summers and Kiki Williams among others were elegantly captured by photographer Craig McDean in a faded carnival scene in Los Angeles inspired by a western American road trip. The campaign also features a few pieces from the brand’s collaboration with Disney which gives a playful twist on some of the network’s iconic characters. The images of this all female gang breathe cool, confident, effortless spirit from the Coach girl which accurately conveys the inclusive and optimistic vision of the house with the collections main themes. To view the full collection , visit Coach

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Annakiki SS19 – “A Glitch in Fashion”

03.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last season Chinese designer Anna Yang, presented her collection on the Spring Summer 2109 runways of Milan which she entitled ‘Fashion Glitch.’ The collection represented a crossroad between the themes of tradition and rebellion. Oversized volumes and neon coloured unorthodox pieces were deconstructed and given traditional silhouettes. It highlighted some qualities of fashion that would be considered glitches in a daring, experimental yet dauntless way. It included PVC fabrics, crystal and studded embroidery , denim and patent leather. The designer’s signature, has always been one which showcases the ethics of streetwear in a trendy, bright-coloured, experimental manner which always seems to pay off in the end. Each season, she aims to keep things fresh and keeps her audience on their toes without being too perilous or couture. Discover the full collection at Annakiki.com

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Fashion 2019-20: A Creative Resurgence Perhaps?

02.01.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

If it’s one thing we learned from the year 2018, it was that the fashion industry is in somewhat of a mass creative crisis. Unfortunately the industry has reached a point where it no longer defines itself by self-inventing and creating as it sees fit but instead looks to it’s consumers and influencers for major leads on what direction to go next. This revealed itself in many different ways such as the sneaker epidemic —  late 2017, Balenciaga created a version of a chunky sneaker called the Triple S which many people enjoyed, and by the end of 2018, the fashion industry had created an over saturation of many different versions of the same product. Nevertheless some of the pieces created were of course best sellers, but there is something less pure about the concept of a design done distinctly for commercial gain as opposed to one powered by creativity which gains sales upon its release. Of late, the fashion industry has been producing a lot of just that, series of collections and drops driven solely by the dollars of the people. Louis Vuitton, Celine, Dior Women’s and many other smaller brands in attempt to follow the streetwear movement often end up creating different versions of the same looks deficient of a wow factor. It is as if the industry within the last decade has shifted from an aristocracy to a democracy. This is not to say a producer should not listen to the voice of its consumer, however fashion has always been the source to define and show the people what they need as opposed to subservient system it’s now become.

In the 90’s & 2000’s, designers like Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier and Gianni Versace were coveted by big design houses and corporations because of their ability to create fresh and interesting ready-to-wear shows and collections without going too far across the border of couture. These creatives along with the members of the anti-fashion movement like Rei Kawakubo, Hussen Chalayan, and Raf Simons inebriated and exposed fashion for the art form which it is. Each one had an individual voice and panache which not only kept people at the edge of their chairs during shows but also often attracted an eager clientele. Fashion, because of it’s original, reputable work, withheld a sort of elitism in and outside the industry which earned the admiration and trust of the general public which in turn persuaded them into believing the industry was well-equipped with a group of creatives who had the power to convince and guide them throughout trends. However fast forward to 2018-19 this respect and admiration from consumers and the general public has somehow lost it’s way, the sales of many houses fell during the past year , “more than 1,875 fashion stores in the U.S alone had announced closure, 53% more than the number of closures during the financial crisis of 2008.”  There has been quite the speculation on what could have landed us in this crisis, some argue it was the fusion of the fashion industry with Hollywood through Vogue and other magazines. Others point fingers at fast fashion corporations such as Zara or Fashion Nova who constantly undermine the works of designers with imitations through slavery-like production. All of the above are contributing factors, but the question is, how will these high fashion brands regain the mass trust and loyalty of the general public? Through originality of course, the industry needs to dig deep and reclaim it’s voice in order to subjugate fast fashion and recreate a fantasy for the general public to admire. Fashion sells because it’s a fairytale. There are certainly designers still around like Richard Quinn, Charles Jeffery, Francesco Risso, Alessandro Michele and even at times Miuccia Prada who still create their own interesting narratives. However, why settle for the village when you can have the nation. No-one ever established success without experimentation, taking risks and pushing boundaries. This is not just the work for designers but the entire industry — magazines, luxury Groups, writers, stylists, photographers and everyone. It is mandatory that we aim be creative and expressive without the intentions of pleasing the people around us. So here’s to hoping 2019 will be the year fashion takes back it’s voice. With exhilarating runway shows and fabulous eco-friendly collections. Here’s to hoping as we close this decade, that somehow someway we will successfully become the saviours of our own selves and the creators of an invigorating new era. 

cover photo by Tim Walker : Story Teller

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LVMH Prize 2019 – Open Call For Young Designers

18.12.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

The LVMH Prize in it’s sixth edition since it’s launch has once again casted an open call for young designers.  The Prize is opened to designers under 40 all across the world who have produced at least womenswear, menswear or unisex collections.  The winner will receive 300,000 euros and a one-year mentorship program facilitated by the LVMH team. The Prize also acknowledges three young graduates who have completed a course in fashion school by presenting them with an opportunity to join the creative team at one of the houses of the group for a year as well as a 10,000 euro grant.  Last year’s winner Japanese designer Masayuki Ino was selected from among 1,300 candidates from across 90 countries, judged by a panel of International experts from the fashion industry. For more information visit LVMH.

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Marni Resort 2019 – Compulsive Harmony

14.12.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

“Gentle subversion. Looking at reality through a filter, in pursuit of extreme beauty. “

A freshly-released Marni resort 2019 collection focuses on magnifying the traits of romanticism and elegance through the forms of pastel coloured, delicate established silhouettes. Designer Francesco Riso waved his magic wand and created a harmonious collection tied together by feminine distorted, draped and pleated pieces. Demure jackets, voluminous skirts, languid dresses, puffy skirts and soft printed dresses paired with metal-toed shoes and soft coloured leather jackets . The collection feels like a haiku pieced together by a delicate sophisticated feminist to her ex lover with the intentions of letting them know about the great strength she has gained from the horrible break up, with not too much but just enough words. Like an evening primrose, a flower which blooms in darkness, an enchantress of love which has metamorphosed her pain into a collection of welded silk, nylon, ostrich leather, denim and crepe de chine as a gesture of freedom. To view the full collection, visit Marni. 

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