LFW: Charles Jeffrey SS2020 Menswear: 21st Century Punk Rock

11.06.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

All Images by Chris Yates

Last weekend British designer Charles Jeffrey revealed his SS2020 men’s collection during London Fashion Week. Within the past few seasons Jeffrey has established himself to be not just a designer but a showman, a thespian, a poet who doesn’t just put needle to thread without there being deep intention manifested behind it. Each season the designer has delivered full on productions that leaves his audience in wonder of the world around them about matters that are often so blatantly obvious, repackaged and re-presented by the designer in a way that manifests itself within the viewer. Last season Jeffrey presented an exhilarating and immersive Weimar Republic club performance with nods to Peter Pan and sexuality. However this season the designer opted for a rather more sober tone as he drew inspiration from the concept of punk culture and the idea of how it was created as a default to the times in which we lived.

This collection as he said, was “an eruption beneath violent pressure, as a diamond under the heat,” in reference to the political, social and natural climates in which we currently live. His show began with the designer himself walking down the runway of The British Library reading a passage from “In the Beginning,” by Dylan Thomas. Followed by a collection of seersucker suiting, featherweight jacquards referencing armour and civil service uniforms in reference to the need for both freedom and protection; opal blue silk column dresses styled with contradictory military jackets and some pieces containing intricately layered rips and tears representative as sorts of fault lines. 

Some models sported full face paintings done and extravagant head pieces and  fishnet stockings which reinforced the collection’s punk influence. The collection was acted almost like a map, like a polaroid of this generation’s pain and demise, a prediction maybe, of what such a movement like the punk subculture would have looked like in the year 2019. 

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Prada SS20 Mens: An Optimist Rhythm, A Boyish Freedom

09.06.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Creative Director Miuccia Prada was moving to an optimistic tune in regards to the latest Prada Spring Summer 2020 Menswear collection. The collection was presented for the first time in Shanghai, China in celebration of the 40th anniversary of Milan being named it’s sister city. The show continued along the same themes and energies presented in the house’s resort collection a month ago which explored notions of optimism and simplicity. On a blue-lit runway at the Minsheng Art Wharf Mrs. Prada explored the these notions of optimism through a boyish elegance by acknowledging the significance and impact of fashion design. And as a result acknowledging the designer’s power as an artist with self affirmations, “I am no longer an artist; I have become a work of art,” a quote from the voiceover played during the show. The collection was almost like an ode to oneself, an embrace of both the good and the bad, the old and the new, the rebellious and the sophisticated. 

Classic pieces are decontextualised with contrasting  proportions and scaling created to frame the male body abstractly. An long shirt addressees the line of a tailored jacket, polo shirts and sweatshirts are given macro volume, each piece was crafted with a sort of boyhood in mind that speaks to a type of freedom. The type of boyhood that may recall the spirits of Boy Scouts which may have been subconsciously hinted with the above the knee shorts, tent-like nylon tank tops and palette of khaki’s included the collection.

These were complemented by neutrals of baby blues, pinks, blacks and greys in tune with that of the resort collection.  As described in the show notes “technology has become a fetish, ” where cassette tapes, floppy disks and other ‘antique’ pieces of technology are mounted on shirts and jackets like merit badges. Having landed commercial success through dipping her feet in these untamed themes such as Frankenstein in the last menswear show in February, this SS20 menswear collection seems to have been Miuccia’s affirmation that what had been known as a classic tailored Prada brand five or ten years ago, is now meant to be played upon and experimented with. Keeping up with the changing times, while staying true to the brand’s voice. 

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Nike Launches BeTrue Pride Month Campaign

07.06.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

In celebration for this year’s Pride festivities Nike launches it’s BeTrue collection in support of the LGBTQ+ community with a smashing campaign. Earlier this week, in partnership with Out Magazine, Nike released the images for the collection that were done in collaboration with the estate of Gilbert Baker — the political activist who claimed the rainbow for LGBTQ+ people by creating the pride flag. 

The campaign shot by photographer Marcus Smith features the likes of some of sports’ most important LGBTQ+ names including Caster Semenya, Sue Bird, Chris Mosier, Brittney Griner,  Kerron Clement among many others.  All decked out in this year’s updated merch which includes  collection of shoes, accessories and clothes highly influenced by the pride flag. Such as the Air Max 720 in a rainbow palette with Baker’s signature on the back, The Air Tailwind 79 with a rainbow heel, the Zoom Pegasus Turbo in a full rainbow stripe with glitter and sparkles among other products.  In tune with the initiative,  the brand will also grant financial support to 20 LGBTQ+ organisations including the GLBT historical Society, the Hetrick-Martin Institute, The National Gay Basketball Association and You Can Play.  The Nike BeTrue 2019 collection is now available online and in selected stores worldwide. 

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Matches Fashion x Paco Rabanne 1969 Pre-Collection

06.06.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Yesterday French fashion house Paco Rabanne in partnership with London based luxury retailer Matches Fashion launched an exclusive silvery of the house’s 1969 anniversary bag and AW19 pre collection with an installation at Matches’ space at 5 Carlos Place. 

The Paco Robanne 1969 anniversary bag bridges past and present through iconic design and artisanal technique. Assembled by hand, the bag is the quintessential expression of Paco Rabanne – avant garde when created 50 years ago and timelessly modern today. 

Image by Cat Garcia

The installation is an immersive experience which welcomes customers into Paco Rabanne’s world through two channels.  One  as a chainmail cube that focuses on luminosity and curiosity, pulling stimuli for inspiration from the 1969 bag collection and it’s unique aspects. The other is a twist to the AW19 collection that curates an environment with films representing the landscapes of David de Beyter and digital tutorials on LED screens that explain how to wear pieces from the collection.  Both installation act as booths for photos where costumers are free to interact with the products and the curated environment that accompanies them. 

 The 1969 anniversary collection will be available exclusively at MATCHESFASHION.COM for the month of June and the installation at 5 Carlos Place will run until the 26th of June. 

Image by Cat Garcia

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Cecilie Bahnsen x Matches Fashion Capsule Collection

24.05.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen recently teamed up with luxury retailer Matches Fashion on the release of a fifteen-piece collection released this week . The collection, a continuation of her SS19 collection,  includes a selection of the designer’s signature feminine designed accentuated with embroidery, beading and other details.

“The designs for the exclusive capsule collection are a beautiful continuation of our last collection. Combining sculptural silhouettes with couture techniques reinterpreted for Matches Fashion woman,” explained the designer. 

For the collection, Bahnsen collaborated with a few female creatives including teenager Margrethe Hjort Hay who inspired the floral beadings as well as photographer Josefine Seifert who shot the editorial. In celebration of the collaboration, Cecile has also put on an installation open to the public until June 1st, at the Matches Fashion Mayfair townhouse, featuring furniture from Swedish Design Group Magniberg and the work of glass artist Nina Norgaard to stylishly accompany the designer’s collection. The Cecilie Bahnsen x Matches Fashion collection will soon be available online Matches Fashion.

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F IS FOR…FENDI Ft. Nigel Sylvester

22.05.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Fendi has recently partnered up with American professional BMX athlete on their latest installation of the F IS FOR.. FENDI campaign.  The feature sees the athlete sporting an outfit from the house’s SS19 collection, doing 360s and rear wheel jumps with his one of a kind FENDI bike at the Fendi Headquarters in Rome. 

The F IS FOR.. FENDI initiative began as a platform for Millennials made to share stories and experiences relevant to the generation that are in line with the Maison’s DNA.  This is brought out through fashion editorials and interviews with musicians, artists, athletes and all types of creatives. 

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Adidas Original x Fiorucci SS19

20.05.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Earlier this year adidas original joined forces with Italian brand Fiorucci for the release of a collaborative capsule collection.

A pairing that worked so well that they had to do it twice. This month the brands announced the release of a second collection perfectly tailored for the waves of the summer. The campaign features a bevy of girls decked out bright coloured swimwear, jackets, shorts, sandals and sneakers. Each of the collection’s pieces combines the sporty aesthetic of Adidas original with the bold graphics and identity of Fiorucci.  The collection is now available on Fiorucci.

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“All I Want To Be” by Thomas De Kluyver

19.05.2019 | Art , Beauty , Blog , Fashion | BY:

Cover Image: Shibuya by Harley Weir

During the past few days make up artist Thomas De Kluyver has partnered with photographers Harley Weir, Fumiko Imano, Shama Osborne, Lea Colombo among others for the release of an IDEA book entitled All I Want To Be. The book, launched at Dover Street Market last week features exclusive work created by de Kluyver and his team of creatives as they explore themes of gender identity, politics, representation and individual expression in beauty and fashion. ”I want people to have fun with make-up and experiment with their identity,” he explains. 

Throughout the book, the 150 pages are brought to life by the colourful images of these talented creatives which are introduced with a beautiful poem by Wilson Oryema on the fluidity of identity.

“It talks about how our identities are never fixed, or set, and how important it is to be able to express ourselves the way we want to. Our starting point for All I Want To Be was making sure we captured the people that feature in it somewhere they felt safe. So many of the images are shot in bedrooms, bathrooms… The kind of places we’re able to shut the door and experiment with who we are freely and without any judgement,” explains the photographer.
The book concludes with photographer Harley Weir’s chapter which features a cast of full body painted subjects. Given the themes of the book, the photographer will also be donating a share of the proceeds to gender non conformity charity Mermaids UK.

“The world of fashion and beauty has a long history of challenging gender norms but more needs to be done to represent the beauty within all of us, regardless of our gender. We hope Thomas will continue to be a powerful force in gender acceptance in an industry that shapes the way our society understands power and beauty” said Susie Green Mermaids UK CEO. Thomas De Kluyver’s All I Want To Be is currently on shelves at Dover Street Market London.

inner/ outer / self by Oliver Hadlee Pearch
Awake by Lea Colombo

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Balenciaga Fall 2019 Deserts The Ordinary

15.05.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Parisian fashion house Balenciaga has unveiled the imagery for their Fall 2019 campaign set in Morocco, shot by French photographer Jean-Pierre Attal. For the campaign the photographer references his work series “Paysages Ethonographiques” where random subjects usually found in cosmopolitan scenery are casually placed in desert lands. The Balenciaga Fall 19 campaign takes on a similar narrative as the photographer’s subjects, decked out in full Balenciaga looks are placed in the Moroccan desert in a way that seems to be almost too contradictory to be real, blurring the lines between urban & suburban, real & surreal.

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Celine Winter 2019 Part 1

10.05.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Earlier this week Parisian luxury label Celine released part 1 fo their 2019 Winter campaign under the direction of freshly appointed Creative Director Hedi Slimane.

The campaign shot by the creative director himself, captures the French bourgeois feel that was embodied on the FW19 runway featuring models Marland and Adrien as his muses. The models are clad in Celine from head to toe as they slouch around in some of the full looks from the runway. The campaign features a simple and quite relaxed approach to luxury which echoes the creative director’s intent for the FW19 collection itself. To view the full campaign and the short film accompanied, visit Celine

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FENDI – #MeAndMyPeekaboo Ep.10

08.05.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

On the tenth episode of their #MeAndMyPeekaboo series, Italian fashion house Fendi has opted to celebrate Italian celebrity influencer Chiara Ferragni on her 32nd birthday. For the episode the web entrepreneur and her rapper husband Fedez are featured alongside the beloved women of her family including mother Marina Di Guardo and sisters Francesca and Valentino in Rome. The short film documents the couple upon their arrival in Palazzo Fendi in Rome, where she is met with a surprise birthday party with family and friends in attendance. The  film captures each intimate moment of the event including Ferragni’s entrance to her celebration, to the blowing of candles, to shared moments between the herself ,husband and family. During the film, Fendi’s legendary Peekaboo of course makes appearances in different versions including the X-Lite edition and the Essential for Men both crafted in Cuoio Romano Selleria leather by the house’s expert leather artisans.

The  #MeAndMyPeekaboo series began earlier this year featuring 10 iconic women across the world which included names like Kim Kardashian, Kris Jenner and North West. Each episode includes versions of the Peekaboo bags which have been seen on the Spring Summer 2019 runways with an updated soundtrack of Mary J Blige’s Family Affair.  To shop the Peekaboo visit Fendi. 

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Chanel Cruise 2020 – Chanel et La Voyage

04.05.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Yesterday afternoon Chanel presented their first resort collection following the death of their late creative director Karl Lagerfeld. The collection’s theme: Chanel et la Voyage , was an ode to the brand’s double legacies of Karl Lagerfeld and Gabrielle Chanel and their love of train stations.

The collection organized by Artistic Director Virginie Viard, carried a theme approved by Lagerfeld, presented in their routined spot in the Grand Palais. The space was transformed to resemble the train stations of vacation spots across the world including Rome, The French Riviera,  Bombay, among others.

This inspiration for railway travel was sparked by Gabrielle and Karl’s direct love for train stations. “On August 28, 1952, I arrived at the Gare du Nord in Paris. The city seemed to me to come straight out of the movies and books that had me so fascinated. I came here to spend two years in high school, but my stay in Paris was a little prolonged, ” remembered Lagerfeld. Ms. Chanel’s fondest of the stations stemmed from both as a meeting point for herself and lover Boy Chapel, as well as a source of inspiration, “You can find all the great works in the paperbacks at train stations,” she noted.

The collection featured Chanel’s signature tweed in skirt suits with ballerina slippers and jumpers, it also saw chiffons and lace dresses ,  jacket suits worn over leggings  and bat wing sweaters. The palette was a mix of bright reds, pinks and purples with tints of black, brown, grey and navy blues. Accessories were of course in abundance with waist bags, harnesses among others. View the full collection at Chanel.

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Prada Resort 2020 – A Seditious Simplicity

03.05.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Last night, Italian fashion house Prada presented their Resort 2020 collection at their Piano Factory headquarters in New York under the theme Seditious Simplicity. The backdrop for the collection was a set designed by British-Dutch architecture studio AMO who re-imagined the space into a series of gloss pink simplistic lounging areas.

This season creative director Miuccia Prada opted for a less playful theme, with a series of looks that offer clean and simple silhouettes, the collection was an ample contrast against the complexity of today’s  world. It featured overcoats, brass buttoned blazers, eased skirts, utility suitings, peasant blouses made in cotton poplins, faille, leather and suede. Although the designer’s motive was to portray simple, this did not restrict a colourful palette. Navy blues, multi-chromatic pinks, and pastels were abundant with the complements of pinstripes, checks and micro patterned florals. Accessories were also a key part of the collection, with Prada’s iconic bowling bag from the SS2000 collection making a comeback in various colours. Other accessories included colourful scarves crafted in paillettes and ear and neck jewellery made from baroque pearls. As Ms.Prada stated herself, “It’s simplicity as a protest against too much. I’m sensitive to the political situation; it affects me,” the woman presented in the collection was an appropriate character in the current age of everything being “too much.“

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Prada’s Futuristic Linea Rossa Campaign

19.04.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This past week has seen the release of Italian fashion house Prada’s latest Linea Rossa campaign featuring their signature Linea Rossa logo with a bit of a twist.  The campaign shot and directed by Daniel Sannwald features the duo of models Lineisy Monero and Jun Young who are chic in the Linea Rossa looks from Prada’s SS19 collection. The pieces, all made from innovative, futuristic fabrics are the epitome of ultra-functional minimalism and futuristic sportswear combined with a sprinkle of modern elegance. It includes men’s, women’s and unisex garments that creates slim yet sharp silhouettes that gives the wearer an extra edge for respective occasions. The campaign itself is a technoid take on the classic technique of chronophotography, capturing multiple frames of a motion and combining them in single images. To shop Prada’s Linea Rossa, visit Prada. 

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Fendi #MeAndMyPeekaboo No.9 ft The Quann Sisters

17.04.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

For the 9th episode of their #MeAndMyPeekaboo series, Italian fashion house Fendi has joined forces with the exceptional genetic duo of the New York based creatives The Quann sisters. The short film, focuses on the strength of  sisters’ bond and features the two —  blogger and entrepreneur Cipriana Quinn and musician and music producer TK Wonder prancing around the streets of Manhattan with their Peekaboo bags in hand. 

The  #MeAndMyPeekaboo series began earlier this year featuring 10 iconic women across the world which included names like Kim Kardashian, Kris Jenner and North West. Each episode includes versions of the Peekaboo bags which have been seen on the Spring Summer 2019 runways with an updated soundtrack of Mary J Blige’s Family Affair.  To shop the Peekaboo visit Fendi. 

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Saint Laurent Denim #YSL23 By Anthony Vaccarello

08.04.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

This week Parisian fashion house Yves Saint Laurent released their latest #YSL23 all denim campaign. Under the art direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the campaign features a tribe of models sporting rock and roll inspired looks decked in sequinned bikini tops, frayed jean shorts, denim shirts and jackets with leopard print patchwork, waistcoats and other edgy YSL pieces. With a cast of models that includes Kaia Gerber, Simona Kust, Martina Boaretto, Mads, Mullin, Rebecca Leigh Longendke, Dakota Lindvall, Najib, Rai Langlois and Dylan Christensen, photographer Gary Sorrenti captures the eclectic voices of the fashion house’s denim collection while honing Vacarello’s signature punk aesthetic.  Discover more at YSL. 

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Introducing Gucci’s Zumi -A playfully appealing accessory

04.04.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Earlier this week, Italian fashion house Gucci’s released one of their latest ventures which features the release of a new handbag. Creative director Alessandro Michele has casted L.A based actress and experimental musician Zumi Rosow as his muse as he created a line of bags inspired by her free spirited, creative spirit.  The bags, dubbed Gucci Zumi are accessories which feature a combination of the house’s signature motifs, being the interlocking G as well as the Horsebit hardware which was replicated from a rare piece of the house’s archives chosen by Michele.

Of course the bag is presented in several different versions —  the sophisticated top handle version, offered in medium and small —  this version is featured in smooth and grainy leather, python, elapse, ostrich and crocodile. The Gucci Zumi Shoulder bag is offered in the sizes mini and small and features the option to detach the leather strap, transforming into a clutch.  Michele also drew inspiration from a vintage 60’s bag for the tote version of the Zumi which was presented at the SS19 show and is offered only in crocodile and lizard skins.  The bag is also included in fun Gucci strawberry prints in the medium top handle and mini shoulder versions.  To shop visit Gucci.

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Illustrating Fashion with Christina Zimpel

01.04.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

Broad strokes, dense colour, a sense of positive circularity to her work – Christina Zimpel is an artist of a wonderfully bold disposition. Being an Australian in New York City, her work has lifted the pages of Vogue Australia to the SS19 handbags (and set design) of Michael
Kors. There is a natural magnetism to her illustrations, often heavily centred around reinterpretations of the runway or figures of fashion. Christina breaks down familiar catwalk looks into bright colour comparisons of ink and gouache (think green against pink, red beside baby blue), or almost-Surrealistic monochrome, creating confident combinations.
Large almond eyes are bestowed on her interpretations, and for all the magnetism of their form and colour, look out with a gentleness: a reflection of the artist? May Christina Zimpel’s illustrative hand continue: she creates illustrations that lift the page through colour and composition.

What do you do for fun, what’s your favourite colour?

For fun I eat and garden and go for walks. My favourite colour is currently
a mossy green. 

What were you good at in school, what were you not so good at?

I enjoyed history and art and creative writing. I did not pay enough attention to maths and biology.


Who were you favourite bands growing up? Who do you listen to these days?
I like the same bands today as I did growing up… Bowie, Roxy Music, Kraftwerk, Prince, Miles Davis, The Clash, Joy Division etc etc. all really great to work to. And my son Lil Jabba!
 

How did you get into art and illustration?
I got into art by suddenly deciding I wanted to draw – so I drew everything I could see around me every day for a couple of years and shared the results on Instagram. Illustration commissions started coming due to that. In the past it might have been harder to get my foot in the door. However, now I have an audience and some great people saw something interesting in me and gave me work which is wonderful!

Describe a day in your life .
I am quite boring especially in winter when I barely leave the house! I work at home so I am up and working at the kitchen table. I can multi task as the dishwasher and stove are close to my brushes and paints. In the summer I get to go outside and do a bit of gardening or walk around my neighbourhood if I need a break.

Your work appears to be shaped greatly by blocks of colour: does colour or form come first for you when you start a piece?
When I’m painting, colour is an important starting point. I have a definite palette and love to work within those parameters. My colour choices come from distant memories when I became really conscious of my surroundings. The sixties pop colours, the clarity of bright reds and greens and pink my mother loved. They form my landscapes. With illustrations I tend to be influenced by the subject matter be it fashion or narratives. Using very bright colours is tricky so I add banal colours to balance them, otherwise you’d get a headache.

Do you doodle?
I love to doodle! That is something I’ve always done.

You are from Perth yet currently reside in New York: do aspects of either Australia or New York enter your work?
Definitely- Australia is a land of bright clear colours and I like the uplifting feelings it gives me, it ties in with the Fauvist paintings I love so much.
New York really gives me so much love for humanity… so many people all the time all living their lives right in front of you. It really comes out in my work – observations of people’s expressions, body language, the heaviness of life.

Does your mind drift as you draw or does drawing help your mind drift?
I have always been the anxious type. Drawing is the best help I’ve found to drift away from my thoughts and tune out the chatter. It makes me live in the moment.  In the UK, the government is increasingly moving focus away from the arts, leaving a potential massive gap in young people’s education of art.

How important is art to you?
When you are exposed to the arts there is something each person will find interesting or beautiful or earth shattering amongst it. All people should get the opportunity to open up their world and find their own creativity or passions. It shouldn’t be a luxury.


You have worked with the likes of the CFDA, Maison Kitsune and Michael Kors: what role has collaboration played in your career?
I was really lucky to work with some iconic brands in 2018. I had the opportunity to draw portraits, landscapes and create brand identities. I had my first merchandise produced – totes and phone cases and T-shirt’s, as well as beautiful look books and interactive displays. It’s been really exciting and it’s giving me hope that I can grow exponentially, and be collaborative, not just work in a bubble.

What was the last thing that made you excited?
The whole thing- I did not see any of this coming!

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“Tim Walker: Wonderful Things” – The Visionary’s Largest Exhibition To Date comes to London

30.03.2019 | Art , Blog , Fashion | BY:

Cover Image: Duckie Thot, Aubrey’s shadow © Tim WalkerStudio

This Autumn London’s largest museum Victoria and Albert is set to host an exhibition on one of fashion’s most celebrated photographers Tim Walker. Titled Tim Walker: Wonderful Things , the exhibition is scheduled to open on September 21st, and will include the largest collection of Walker’s images to date. Curated & designed by leading creative director and Walker’s long-term collaborator Shona Heath , the exhibit will feature 10 new photographic projects which have been directly influenced by the V & A’s vast collection. In preparation for the exhibit, the photographer scoured the museum 145 public galleries, scaled the roof of the 12 acre South Kensington site and explored the labyrinth of Victorian passages below level. Where he encountered , antique jewellery , erotic illustrations, the museum’s largest photograph as well as many other rare artefacts to serve as inspiration for the projects. 

“To me, the V&A has always been a palace of dreams – it’s the most inspiring place in the world. The museum’s collection is so wide and eclectic, and I think that’s why it resonates with me so much. Many of the objects that I saw during my research at the museum made my heart swell and I wanted to try to create a photograph that would relate not only to the physical presence and beauty of that object, but also to my emotional reaction to it. Each new shoot is a love letter to an object from the V&A collection, and an attempt to capture my encounter with the sublime. For me, beauty is everything. I’m interested in breaking down the boundaries that society has created, to enable more varied types of beauty and the wonderful diversity of humanity to be celebrated. Preparing for this exhibition over the past three years has pushed me into new territories, which is very exciting, and I’m at a stage in my life where I feel brave enough to do that,” said the man himself. 

‘Tilda Swinton’, Renishaw Hall, Derbyshire, 2018 (c) Tim Walker Studio

The exhibition will begin with  showcasing over 300 items including short films, photographic sets, props, sketches, scrapbooks and other items from which Walker drew inspiration as well 100 photographs from his previous projects. It will the continue into 10 additional rooms filled with the photographer’s work work inspired by the V & A, his films installations and evocative sets and props alongside the images they inspired.  The exhibition will take it’s bow on March 08, 2020. For more information, visit V & A. 

‘Zo, Kiran Kandola, Firpal, Yusuf, Ravyanshi Mehta, Jeenu Mahadevan, Chawntell Kulkami, Radhika Nair’, Pershore, Worcestershire, 2018 (c) Tim Walker Studio
‘Karen Elson, Sgaire Wood & James Crewe’, London, 2018 (c) Tim Walker Studio

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LVMH Prize Top 8 Finalists

28.03.2019 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Earlier this year the LVMH Prize announced the top twenty designers selected since it’s worldwide open call for their sixth edition in running. The batch was a diverse group of creatives including London based talents Kiko Kostadinov, Richard Malone and Paria Farzaneh. Kenneth Ize from Nigeria, New York based Caroline Hu among several others who presented their collections last month in Paris at the LVMH HQ for industry insiders. 

Since then, the Prize’s panel of experts including Naomi Campbell, Pat McGrath, Adrian Joffe and Jefferson Hack have narrowed down the list to 8 finalists. The revised list is as follows: 

KENNETH IZE

“At Kenneth Ize we focus on reinterpreting examples of Nigerian craft to create an original perspective on luxury production within textile and fashion. We work with a community of weavers, and also with a variety of artisan and design groups across Nigeria. The label is devoted to the long established traditions of craft and local artisanship, merging a contemporary design aesthetic and new production skills with a specifically local handcraft practice. It is an approach we hope to expand upon to include other design cultures around Africa and abroad. There is the strong belief that in exploring and nurturing existing cultures, one opens up an exciting territory for creating and inspiring future traditions.” 

STEFAN COOKE

The London-based Stefan Cooke brand is directed by Cooke and his partner Jake Burt. The pair are currently working on their Fourth Season, Spring/Summer 20. The combination of Cooke’s subversion of textile techniques and Burt’s skill for silhouette and design underpins the signature style of the pairs’ forthcoming looks. Original techniques and collaboration is at the heart of the process for their work and continues to be a force of innovation.

THEBE MAGUGU

Thebe Magugu is a young designer based in Johannesburg, South Africa. Originally from the small town of Kimberley, he moved to Johannesburg to study fashion design, fashion photography and fashion media from LISOF. After winning best graduate collection, he interned and worked for a selection of designers fashion institutions and retailers. After 2 years, he began his namesake label, THEBE MAGUGU – a South African fashion brand primarily operating within the field of women’s ready to wear.

Speaking about the brand, the designer says, “together with our pillar values of quality, novelty and culture, we constantly seek new ways of presenting women with clothing that both complies with and enhances the everyday. Sleek, forward-looking design intersects with motifs from our continent’s storied past, providing smart, multifaceted clothes as valuable as their woman”.

PHIPPS  – by Spencer Phipps

Spencer Phipps was born and raised in San Francisco. He studied at Parsons School of Design in New York City graduating in 2008 with a nomination as “designer of the year” for his final year collection – an initial exploration of sustainable fashion. He started his career at Marc Jacobs as part of the menswear design team and after, relocated to Antwerp to work with Dries Van Noten as their first American menswear designer. He is currently based in Paris where he pursues his passion for rock climbing and other outdoor activities.

HED MAYNER

The sacred and the traditional are both part of Mayner’s world, as well as a passion for authentic menswear pieces, which he likes to twist and rework. His clothes can be passed on from father to son, escaping the transient nature of designer fashion. Focusing on a substantial and stylish wardrobe of everyday separates, his debut collection emphasizes comfort and self-expression, underlining the universal appeal of archetypal clothes. Addressing the essentials of a male wardrobe -from a sleeveless trench jacket and a pair of loose jeans to a roomy bomber or draped white t-shirt- he roots his sartorial vision within an appreciation of honesty and sincere clothing, as well as an interest in the finer details. Impeccably tailored and constructed, the designer’s clothes are as beautiful inside as they are on the outside, evoking a subtle sense of luxury which must be felt and experienced instead of being seen.

BODE – by Emily Adams Bode

Emily Adams Bode was born and raised in Atlanta, Georgia. After studying in Switzerland, she moved to New York and graduated from Parsons School of Design and Eugene Lang College with a BA/BFA dual-degree in menswear design and philosophy. Bode expresses a sentimentality for the past through the study of personal narratives and historical techniques. Modern workwear silhouettes united with female centric traditions of quilting, mending, and appliqué shape the collections. Each piece of clothing tells a story, and is tailor-made in New York and New Delhi.

BETHANY WILLIAMS

Bethany Williams is a pioneering British menswear designer committed to exploring social and environmental change within her work and working with marginalised parts of society to bring about positive change and social enterprise. At a time in which socio-politics are at the forefront of many designer’s minds, this pioneering designer isn’t just protesting bur rather offering solutions and call-to-actions.  For her collection Women for Change, she has worked closely with female prisoners and the San Patrignano drug dependency program. Bethany Williams, a London-based sustainable fashion designer, focuses our attentions onto women’s rehabilitation for spring/summer 18. For Bethany’s most recent collection she has collaborated with Adelaide House, a women’s shelter based in Liverpool, one of only six such facilities in the country. Adelaide House provides a safe place for women leaving prison with various needs including domestic violence and homelessness. 

ANREALAGE –  by Kunihiko Morinaga

Born in  Kunitachi, Tokyo Kunihiko Morinaga began making clothes in Vantan Design Academy while he was still in Waseda University and launched his own brand “ANREALAGE” in 2003.
ANREALAGE is a combination of the words ”REAL, UNREAL and AGE’’.
The name, ANREALAGE was born from a desire to create real clothes for everyday use while utilizing ultimate dimensions, original concepts, and unique elements. Our collections utilize three key elements. These are “hand craft work”, “conceptual shaping” and “technology” under the mantra of “God is in the details”. In 2005, ANREALAGE won the Design Vision Award For Avant Garde at Gen Art competition for new designer in New York. In 2011, we won the 29th Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix for the best new designer in Tokyo. In 2014, we participated in the Paris Fashion Week, starting with Spring/ Summer 2015. We held “A LIGHT UN LIGHT”, the exhibition with clothes of collections in Paris, in Japan. 

The Prize’s winner , to be decided later this year will receive 300,000 euros and a one-year mentorship program facilitated by the LVMH team. The Prize also acknowledges three young graduates who have completed a course in fashion school by presenting them with an opportunity to join the creative team at one of the houses of the group for a year as well as a 10,000 euro grant.

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