Louis Vuitton AW18 brings a new vision for strong women

07.03.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

Military yet undone, matching but out of synch, the Louis Vuitton AW18 show brought to life a new vision of powerful women. The show was all about turning the expected on its head, and there was a palpable sense of strangeness and mystery throughout. Bags were carried on their sides, rather than upright; eye make-up streaked across one eye but left the other bare; traditional silhouettes such as pencil skirts and cashmere polo necks were mixed with peplum leather jackets and suede-shouldered pale yellow, shearling jackets. It was Nicolas Ghesquiere at his savviest, blending femininity and power to offer an original vision. Here’s to the new era.

Louis Vuitton AW18

Louis Vuitton AW18

Louis Vuitton AW18

Louis Vuitton AW18

Louis Vuitton AW18

Louis Vuitton AW18

 

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An exclusive look at Aphid’s AW18 collection

23.02.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

London-based collective Aphid brings sharp, sculptural tailoring and avant-garde design to the contemporary scene. With a moody, darker feel, it’s all about embracing the strange and unfamiliar. Here the brand gives Twin an exclusive insight into their designs and thought process behind the AW18 collection.

Our AW18 collection is based around the idea of ‘RITUALS: Ceremony consisting of a series of actions performed according to a prescribed order.’  We love the notion of dressing for an occasion and the heavily debated topic of what ‘dressing-up’ looks like for a contemporary woman. This led us to a fascination with ceremonial dressing and Japanese men’s Hakama trousers, worn during ancient tea ceremonies. Dressing for ceremony; what it means and how it’s achieved for both men and women was an initial focal point for us. These tailored, oversized and heavily pleated ceremonial trousers really excited us, and we began deconstructing and re-invisioning these and other forms of traditional dress, how layering is used and the nature of formal dressing has evolved. The notion of suiting and ceremony was also at play in our thought process with the choice of grid print and surface texture. The linear formations playing with the hybrid/ intertwined idea of a pinstripe and the ritually raked ridges of a zen garden.

Linesaline Dress, Aphid AW18 | © Aphid

Colour-wise we wanted to combine the reflective and contemplative sensation that a dark, monochrome palette evokes with vivid, energising shades associated with celebratory clothing – a duality that we frequently return to. Colour isn’t something that we naturally lean towards and as such we won’t ever be a brand that takes colour lightly – for us these infusions of saturated brights punctuate the collection bring an interesting tension, allowing our constant canvas of monochrome tones to be refreshed and invigorated with a new perspective each season.

See more of the sketches for Aphid’s AW18 collection below.

Linesaline Dress, Aphid AW18 | © Aphid

Bilenta top and Glasson Trouser, Aphid’s AW18 collection | © Aphid

Peckton Blazer Osaka Trousers, Aphid AW18 | © Aphid

Braxton dress Aphid AW18 | © Aphid

Calucine Jumpsuit, Aphid AW18 | © Aphid

 

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Arthur Arbesser AW18

23.02.2018 | Fashion | BY:

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

Arthur Arbesser AW18 | © © Amber Pinkerton

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Behind the scenes at Preen AW18

23.02.2018 | Fashion | BY:

Amber Pinkerton goes behind the scenes at Preen to report on the best looks backstage.

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Preen AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

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Shrimps AW18

21.02.2018 | Fashion | BY:

Photographer Sara Abdel Gadir reports from the Shrimps AW18 presentation at London Fashion Week.

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

Shrimps AW18 | © Sara Abdel Gadir

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Margaret Howell AW18

21.02.2018 | Fashion | BY:

Maya Skelton goes behind the scenes at Margaret Howell’s AW18 presentation.

Margaret Howell AW18 | © Maya Skelton

Margaret Howell AW18 | © Maya Skelton

Margaret Howell AW18 | © Maya Skelton

Margaret Howell AW18 | © Maya Skelton

Margaret Howell AW18 | © Maya Skelton

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Backstage at Gareth Pugh AW18

21.02.2018 | Fashion | BY:

Amber Pinkerton goes backstage to delve into the theatrical, dystopian, violent and beautiful space that is Gareth Pugh’s ever enthralling imagination.

Gareth Pugh AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Gareth Pugh AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Gareth Pugh AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Gareth Pugh AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Gareth Pugh AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Gareth Pugh AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Gareth Pugh AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Gareth Pugh AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Gareth Pugh AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Gareth Pugh AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

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Marta Jakubowski AW18

19.02.2018 | Fashion | BY:

Marta Jakubowski AW18 | Amber Pinkerton

Marta Jakubowski AW18 | Amber Pinkerton

Marta Jakubowski AW18 | Amber Pinkerton

Marta Jakubowski AW18 | Amber Pinkerton

Marta Jakubowski AW18 | Amber Pinkerton

Marta Jakubowski AW18 | Amber Pinkerton

Marta Jakubowski AW18 | Amber Pinkerton

Marta Jakubowski AW18 | Amber Pinkerton

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Obsessing over Wade’s world: Mimi Wade AW18

18.02.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

It was a kind of mock-gothic, Hollywood bridal party that only Mimi Wade, with her proven aptitude for taking the fantastically kitsch and making it fantastically sexy, could have pulled off. For AW18, Wade ostensibly stripped back her signature aesthetic but managed to retain a raw, vamp-like glamour even while working across a monochrome base.

Part of a new generation of designers in London adept at creating clans – the likes of Molly Goddard and Sadie Williams have delivered a powerful, unifying aesthetic language too – Mimi Wade has established a strong identity for her women, mixing a sense of nonchalance (this season through bias cuts and frayed hems) with feline sultriness (velvet bows, ruched, deep collars and puffed sleeves). It’s Wade’s World, and we want in.

Mimi Wade AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Mimi Wade AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Mimi Wade AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Mimi Wade AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Mimi Wade AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Mimi Wade AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Mimi Wade AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

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Fyodor Golan AW18

17.02.2018 | Fashion | BY:

Fyodor Golan AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Fyodor Golan AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Fyodor Golan AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Fyodor Golan AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Fyodor Golan AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Fyodor Golan AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Fyodor Golan AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Fyodor Golan AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

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Ryan Lo AW18

17.02.2018 | Fashion | BY:

Ryan Lo AW18 | © Maya Skelton

Ryan Lo AW18 | © Maya Skelton

Ryan Lo AW18 | © Maya Skelton

Ryan Lo AW18 | © Maya Skelton

Ryan Lo AW18 | © Maya Skelton

Ryan Lo AW18 | © Maya Skelton

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Richard Malone AW18

16.02.2018 | Fashion | BY:

Richard Malone AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Richard Malone AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Richard Malone AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Richard Malone AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Richard Malone AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Richard Malone AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Richard Malone AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

Richard Malone AW18 | © Amber Pinkerton

 

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London Fashion Week Designers to Watch AW18

13.02.2018 | Blog , Fashion | BY:

As London Fashion Week approaches, there are plenty of new names to watch out for. Meet four designers setting a new agenda for the British womenswear scene this season.

Matty Bovan

A Fashion East graduate and Charles Jeffrey contemporary, Matty Bovan is staging his first standalone womenswear show at London Fashion Week this season. His designs evoke an underground utopia, leveraging clashing textures, prints and colours to create a raw and powerful new kind of tribe. A nominee for British Emerging Womenswear Talent at the Fashion Awards 2017, all eyes will be on where Bovan is going next.

Sadie Williams

Having already been listed as one of  Forbes Magazine’s “30 Under 30” for The Arts in Europe as well as a host of other accolades and NEWGEN sponsorship, Sadie Williams has the industry talking. Her unique designs combine folk sensibility with futuristic patterns and materials, rendering a new kind of woman that is empowered, playful and adventurous.

© Sadie Williams

Paula Knorr

This London designer is making waves with her sexy, disco-inspired aesthetic that boldly reclaims femininity and offers a fiery new interpretation. Working across a myriad of high energy fabrics and in bold, powerful shades Paula Knorr‘s designs make you want to stand up and make some noise. Read our interview with the designer here.

© Paula Knorr

Marta Jakubowski

Another recipient of the NEWGEN award this year, Marta Jakubowski offers a refined and confident vision through her bright and precisely tailored pieces. Easily re-imagining familiar staples in new ways, Jakubowski’s geometric tailoring brings fresh energy to womenswear and sets an exciting precedent for a new aesthetic in seasons to come.

© Marta Jakubowski

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