Parlez Vous Francais?

Recently, Twin crossed the channel and headed to the French capital to find out what’s hot in Paris right now. Between walking along Avenue Montaigne, shopping at Colette and eating macaroons at Angelina, we met with some emerging designers at their showrooms to find out about the AW14 collections. Now if you’ve not heard of these three brands before, take note.

Etienne Dereoux

Etienne Dereoux states that he doesn’t necessarily create with seasons in mind. Everything is more resortwear; “winter under the sun” if you will, and with the bright pink and blue hues his latest collection boasts, spending your time by the fire would be a complete waste of his garments. Dereoux studied fashion at the Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts and La Cambre School of Visual Arts before starting his eponymous label in Paris. There is a certain serenity to his pieces, fusing comfort and elegance in a contemporary sportswear fashion.

For AW14 a mix of vivid colours like bright fuchsia and royal blue are complemented by black and white and find themselves decorating clean-cut bomber jackets, wool cashmere coats, soft honeycomb knits or crocodile leather pieces. We were specifically drawn to his knitwear capsule collection, a collaboration with the heritage brand Le Mont Saint-Michel. Inspired by dance attire, the range includes mesh-like jumpers and fully- fashioned merino dresses that perfectly combine French savoir-faire and American-inspired sportswear. It’s a match made in fashion heaven.

etiennederoeux.com

Risto

Now you might not know the name, but you’ve certainly seen his designs before. As Head Knitwear Designer for Kenzo, Risto Bimbiloski is no newcomer to the fashion scene having previously worked at Jean Colonna, Thierry Mugler and Louis Vuitton. His personal label is inspired by science and technology giving us quirky motifs and intricate pieces that push the boundaries of knitwear entirely. A family affair, the brand’s collections are entirely produced by Risto’s own atelier, run by his mother in Macedonia and at his showroom we met his brother too. The Macedonian designer is also influenced by the traditional artisan techniques of the women in Ohrid, his hometown, so it’s safe to say this creative hasn’t forgotten his roots.

Come winter, the Risto girl will be seen in light green metallic dresses, high-waisted loose-fitting tailored pants in varied shades, and of course an array of knitted pieces from polo necks, cropped woven jumpers and cardigans covered in wool fringing.

risto.com

Calla

The Calla brand is international to say the least. Based in Paris, showing as part of Made in New York and Calla Haynes, the designer herself is Canadian, which gives the collections this nomadic essence; they won’t feel out of place anywhere. Even the materials are international, boasting silky lightweight fabrics from Japan and mohair from Italy.

Calla likes to create a story for her collections, delving deep into a narrative that expresses each season. For AW14 the Calla girl is a broken-hearted Parisian who ups and leaves for Memphis to become a country singer. This elaborate tale helped create the varsity jackets, oversized blazers, dresses and skirts the collection is full of. The chunky alpaca knits and mohair plaid are a nod to traditional Americana and provide the perfect juxtaposition of tomboy and feminine that the brand is known for. There was also many more graphic prints than previous seasons. One, is based on Lillybear, Calla’s fluffy companion, a Chow Chow who we met while she guarded the showroom. The Lilly motif finds itself emblazed on sweaters, cardigans, dresses, trousers and coats, in an array of colourways. It’s this fun and light-hearted take on fashion that leaves a smile on your face when wearing Calla.

calla.fr

Sorelli Presents: The Evil Rock N Roll Hollywood Cat

Juliana Sorelli, the young french director who we interviewed when she released her film Pretty Pretty, is launching a store in Hollywood. Technically the store has no name, only a logo, but lets just call it The Evil Rock N Roll Hollywood Cat. Located in a 1920’s blue house just off of Hollywood boulevard, it gives the impression of someone’s living room from that decade, one that has been taken over by a group of punks and jailbirds – an aesthetic also found in her film work. As well as Julianna’s own designs, which consist of custom made denim and leather jackets, embroidered sweatshirts and a basics range, the store will feature pieces by JFO, a new brand by Matthew Damhave who originally started the label Imitation of Christ, a new designer named James Flemons and his brand PHLEMONS and custom made jewellery from her friends. You can also expect to find photographic prints by Brad Elterman, books, zines and other smaller items such as pins, patches and records. In the future Juliana hopes to host events such as screenings, talks, shows and she even has plans of turning another room into a small secret gallery, so keep an eye out.

To celebrate the launch of her unique boutique, the Los Angeles based director has created a film titled Hollywood Lucifer. Watch it below…

sorellipresents.com

The Evil Rock N Roll Hollywood Cat – 1608 N Las Palmas Ave. Hollywood, CA

 

Contributors

Twin Team

Becky Smith


Becky Smith is the founder of TWIN and one of Britain’s most in-demand art directors. Since being head-hunted by Vogue at her graduate show at Salford University, in 1998, she’s worked her way up the career ladder at i-D Magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle and wallpaper, before returning to Condé Nast to art direct their prestigious custom title, The Official Ferrari Magazine, and – time-permitting – help out at Vogue alongside her former boss, respected art director Robin Derrick. @BeckstarSmith

Aimee Farrell


Aimee Farrell is the Features Director of Twin. Aimee currently works as Junior Features Associate at British Vogue, writing on music, art and style.

She has also written for The Daily Telegraph, GQ, FADER and Style.com, and consulted for Rimmel and Sony. In her spare time she is one part of The Voguettes DJ troupe. @aimee_farrell

 

 

Celestine Cooney


Twin fashion director Celestine Cooney was born in Ireland and moved to London in 2003. She has worked for Topshop and Preen, as well as styled shows for Ashish and Simone Rocha. @CelestineCooney

India Doyle


India is Online Editor of Twin, and currently works as Fashion Editor at Culture Trip. Based in London, she has previously written for Wonderland, Vogue, Guardian, The Herald and Huffington Post. @officialindiadoyle

Naomi Miller


Naomi Miller is the fashion editor of Twin. The London-based stylist has worked with brands including Nike, Clare Tough and Cecilia Mary Robson.

 

Kat Barry


Kat is the Commercial Director on Twin. She has previously worked at the Guardian News & Media and ELLE Magazine creating branded content and sponsorship campaigns for the likes of VW, Audi, Universal, Swarovski, Arts Council and The Barbican. Alongside Twin, Kat also runs a Kat&Bee Jewellery and Kat&George Accessories with friend George Northwood. @katandbeejewellery

Francesca Gavin


Francesca Gavin is an art critic and editor based in London. She is the Art Editor of Twin, Visual Arts Editor of Dazed & Confused and a contributing editor at AnOther magazine. She has written art and design articles for publications including Elle, Blueprint, TimeOut, ponystep, wallpaper*, Art Review and Telegraph. She has also written three books – Street Renegades on sculptural street art, Hell Bound: New Gothic Art and Creative Space: The Urban Homes of Artists and Innovators (all published by Laurence King). Alongside curation projects, she is currently working on her fourth book on 100 new international artists. Gavin’s current loves include Graham Greene novels, coffee ice cream and making scrapbooks. @roughversion

Cressida Meale


Cressida Meale is the Online Editor of Twin. Having previously been the Editor of Guardian award-winning social-shopping website Motilo, she then spent a few years abroad working as the Deputy Editor of Grazia Middle East, before moving over to be the Deputy Editor of Stylist Arabia when it launched in 2014. Since returning to London she is now a freelance journalist and editorial consultant, working on a variety of homegrown and international projects – as well as Twin, of course.
@cressideuxmille

 

 

 

Emma Cooke


As well as being the Digital Director for Twin, Emma runs Stem Design a design studio creating identity, print and digital campaigns for a variety of arts, fashion & music clients including Roundhouse, Southbank Centre, Barbican, Finders Keepers and Live Nation. She’s currently also the Art Director for le cool London and a member of the Smile studio collective.

Elizabeth Coop


Born in North Manchester, Elizabeth Coop is a freelance writer and social media strategist now based in London. She has taken in roles at Cosmopolitan, matchesfashion.com, Lyst, Dansk and Garage magazine (amongst others). Elizabeth is the Social Media Editor and an Online Writer of Twin.

Photographers

Alexander Binder


German photographer Alexander Binder’s work is full of contrasts. In his images, monochrome and intense colour, dark gothic and psychedelia all mix. With fans including Morel Books and Tim Barber of Tiny Vices fame, expect to see a lot more of Binder’s unique aesthetic.

Alexandra Catiere


Minsk born Alexandre Catiere, explores photography through subtle use of light and classical, elegant framing. Since moving to New York to study at the International Center of Photography in 2002, Alexandre has assisted at the studios of Irving Penn and Yuri Kuper. As well as exhibiting internationally she has shot campaigns for Kenzo, as well as cover art for soul singer Emeli Sande.

Amy Troost


Always slick and super sharp, Canadian photographer Amy Troost has a talent for subtly tough fashion photography. For Twin’s Issue Three she took model Hannelore Knuts on to New York’s streets wearing Comme des Garcons as urban armour and for Issue Four she shot Mirte Maas in black leather and sweat. In 2007 se began her project Casting Portraits. She lives in New York and is married to Alastair McKimm.

Annemarieke van Drimmelen


Annemarieke’s work is a quest to portray real intimacy. Through hints of posture and composition, she teases out subtleties of personality that reveal authenticity in the moment and unite her fashion photography with portraiture. Her own career as a model has given her a fluency in fashion imagery and the confidence to follow her own vision. This combined with her unaffected warmth creates an indefinable and uncommon level of trust with her subjects. Annemarieke van Drimmelen is an Amsterdam native, born to Dutch parents in Australia in 1978. A full-time photographer since 2005, she divides much of her time between London and New York.

Antoine Harinthe


Hanging in the streets, stealing, drinking without thirst, and holding his camera. This is the daily life of 23-year-old Antoine Harinthe, self taught photographer from Paris who cultivates a bastard lifestyle. He worked several years as Assistant Art Director in ad agencies (Ogilvy Paris, Grey Paris). Member of street photography he started to shoot weird scenes, disconcerting situations, or people he met at the corner of a local bar. He works today for fashion magazines and brands. Between new-face and homeless his subjects stand on a tightrope between genuine and rad, and that’s really crappy.

 

Backyard Bill


Bill Gentle began his work as Backyard Bill in 2008, as a showcase of the interesting people he was meeting, a barometer of what trends were developing and to see how people adapt to the cultural influences around them. This project grew into the photo blog “Backyard Bill” and since then his work has blossomed into one of the most innovative photo blogs around, a combination of photography and interviews that results in a fascinating character study of the subject involved. Bill has been commissioned by magazines such as T: The New York Times and GQ, and he has worked extensively for advertising clients such as Steven Alan, Frye Boots, Petit Bateau, Confezioni Crosby, Opening Ceremony and Happy Socks, creating unique, collaborative content centered on the brand’s appeal. Bill is based in Brooklyn, NY.

Benjamin Alexander Huseby

Benjamin Alexander Huseby
Norwegian native Benjamin Alexander Huseby has established a prominent name for himself in both the fashion and art worlds since he graduated from London’s Chelsea College of Art. Renowned for it’s rich imagery and fascinating juxtapositions, Huseby’s fashion work has appeared extensively in leading publications such as Acne Paper, Harpers Bazaar USA, British Vogue, Fantastic Man, The Gentlewoman, V Magazine, V Man, Vogue Hommes Japan, Another Magazine, i-D, Butt, and Self Service. Working alongside longtime collaborators that include stylists Mattias Karlsson, Jacob K, Alister Mackie, Nicola Formichetti, Beat Bolliger and Jane How, Huseby has created advertising for leading international brands such as Prada, Zegna, H&M and Uniqlo. Huseby’s personal art work reveals a much more intimate, unsparing approach to photography.

Ben Rayner


Ben Rayner is from London and lives in New York with his wife Lauren Blane and their Cat “Cow Cat”. He has shot for French Vogue, Dazed, and loads more he enjoys making little books, running, travel and cooking. Otherwise you can find him taking pictures of friends and dogs.

Ben Toms


Ben Toms is a London based photographer. Having grown up in Cornwall he moved to London 9 years ago to pursue a career in photography shooting with stylists such as Robbie Spencer, Katie Shillingford, Mattias Karlsson, Jacob K, Marie Chaix and Olivier Rizzo. Clients include Prada, Miu Miu, Ben Sherman, Warehouse, Topshop and Topman. Publications he regularly contributes to include: AnOther, Vogue USA, Vogue Russia, Vogue Homme Japan and Dazed and Confused.

Ben Weller


Following a first class honours in photography from the University of Brighton, Ben Weller moved to London, quickly making a name for himself as a young artist with a fresh eye. He dividing his time between New York and London Ben is a regular contributor to Twin and has has shot Kim Noorda in Americana and Agyness Deyn in a stetson and shearling.

Boo George


Irishman Boo George was once Bruce Weber’s assistant. When he’s not shooting commercial campaigns for design houses such as Louis Vuitton and Wrangler his work features in fashion magazines. For Twin’s first issue he captured Freja Beha Erichsen in leather for Stand and Deliver and has also shot French indie film queen Joana Preiss.

Cass Bird


Cass Bird’s warm, intrepid depiction of her subjects provides new insight into the gritty exuberance of contemporary love and life.  Her unforgettable vision has garnered the artist great acclaim.  Her photographs feature regularly in international fashion magazines and she has shot campaigns for Converse, Levi’s, Sony, and Nike. Cass made her directorial debut with a film for Sophomore, and for Twin’s Issue III she shot Hanne Gaby at ripping it up at home in cashmere.

Carlotta Manaigo

Italian born and raised, Carlotta Manaigo moved to America to attend the Rhode Island School of Design and graduated with a BFA in Fine Arts/Photography in 2003. Since then she’s built a name for intimate and romantic fashion editorials, such as Love Bomb, Twin’s take on Christopher Kane’s atomic collection and she released neon’s ethereal side in A Brighter Shade of Pale. Her work has been exhibited in Mexico City, Paris, and New York City.

Charles Dennington


Charles Dennington grew up on an overgrown banana farm on the east coast of Australia. He now divides his time between Sydney and Berlin. Charles’ photographic practice is in dialogue with his work as a contemporary sculptor and installation artist and he moves between mediums freely. His portrait photography displays an inventive approach to the depiction of his subjects, to produce simple, engaging and emotive images. Considering his varying creative practice Charles’ work exists in an original way when appearing in various fashion magazines and art journals. For Twin issue VIII Charles shot portraits of Berlin Gallerists Elda Oreto and Nadine Zeidler.

Corinne Day


Corinne Day (19 February 1962 – 27 August 2010), was a British fashion photographer and former fashion model.

Colin Dodgson

Colin Dodgson
Colin Dodgson was born in 1984 in Southern California.  In 2006 he moved to New York and began making photographs about awkwardness and humor.  In 2009 he put on an exhibition in an empty storefront in the Lower East Side and in 2011 he held another exhibition in a friends Soho apartment. He now splits his time between New York and London and his work has been featured in i-D, Dazed and Confused, and T: The New York Times Magazine among others.

Dan Martensen


Since picking up a camera at a young age in his hometown of Pleasantville, New York Dan Martensen hasn’t stopped shooting. Starting out as an assistant to photographers such as Tom Munro, Stephane Sednaoui and Annie Leibovitz, he’s gone on to shoot some of the world’s biggest models, musicians and artists. For Twin he celebrated the American great outdoors in High Plains Drifter and he is currently in the process of publishing a book of the American landscape.

Danielle Levitt


On moving to New York from Los Angeles in 1993, Danielle Levitt started photographing street fashion for The New York Post. Since then she’d gone on to shoot music stars as well as ad campaigns for Target and Docker’s. Her photography book We Are Experienced was published in 2010 and Danielle shot America’s teen misfits for Issue V of Twin.

 

Dean Rogers


Dean Rogers has over 10 years of experience in the film industry, working closely with directors such as Shane Meadows and Anton Corbjin. Known for his narrative approach, his film photography tells the story via a cinematic approach to lighting, as seen in his portraits of the This Is England cast featured in Twin and his enigmatic photographs of musician Lone Lady.

Frederik Heyman


Antwerp based photographer Frederik Heyman’s work is a balancing act incorporating multiple media. Frederik’s background as an illustrator/graphic designer is clearly visible in the working process: in each image, every element and action are carefully designed and defined in advance. This reflects in his commissioned works for clients such as KENZO, VOGUE Hommes Japan, Mugler, Mercedes-Benz… as well in his personal, more eclectic oeuvre.

Jaimie Warren

Jaimie Warren
Jaimie Warren (b. Waukesha, WI, 1980) is a curator, performer, photographer and self-portrait artist, and Co-Creator/Co-Director of the faux public access television show “Whoop Dee Doo”. Warren lives and works in Kansas City, MO, and has exhibited at White Flag Projects, St. Louis; Smith-Stewart, New York; The Atlanta Center for Contemporary Art, Atlanta; Max Wigram, London; the Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, Kansas City, MO; Miami Dade College Museum of Art & Design, Miami, FL; Showroom for Media and Moving Art, Rotterdam, NL, Getsumin, Osaka; Colette, Paris, Higher Pictures, New York, NY, among others.

Jason Kibbler


Age 10, Australian born Jason Kibbler started taking photographs of his surroundings. After graduating with a diploma in fine arts, Jason moved to New York where he broke into fashion photography by assisting Steven Klein and honing his talent with David Sims. His punk attitude has seen him shoot Young and Restless for Twin’s Issue IV and for Issue V of TwIn he shot Tati Cotliar and Yuri as a modern-day Brooklyn Sid and Nancy.

 

 

 

Jason Nocito


Jason Nocito was born in Mineola, NY in 1973 and intermittently studied photography at F.I.T. and the New School, finally graduating in 2010. His second book, I Heart Transylvania (Dashwood Books, 2011) is an intimate love story shot over four years in Vancouver, B.C. where his wife Megan lived until 2010. Nocito has shot campaigns for Nike Converse been in numerous national and international group shows, and in January of 2011 had a solo show at Taxter & Spengemann called Party Pit. He lives in New York City.

Jason Pietra

Jason Petra
Jason Pietra lives between London and New York, and tries to divide his time evenly but it seems the Americans don’t want him to go anywhere. He has contributed to a varied amount of publications from Twin and British Vogue, to American Harpers, Wired and V Magazine. His commercial clients include Barney’s New York, Sephora, Versace, Burberry and Prada. Jason likes to work on personal projects as much as possible, but it’s been two years since his last gallery show. As well as all this, he has been working on some short films as the Cinematographer, and still manages to find time to surf, but he doesn’t find much time to sleep.

Jermaine Francis


Birmingham born Jermaine Francis studied photography and critical theory at Derbyshire University before moving to London. Since assisting Rankin, and photographers including Steven Klein, Marc Hom, Simon Emmett and Corinne Day, Jermaine has developed his own way of bringing personality to fashion imagery. In his portraits of French femme Josephine de la Baume and DJ and singer Alicat he created photographs that mixed portrait and fashion sensibilities.

Jo Metson Scott


Jo Metson Scott is a London-based photographer and was previously assistant to Kayt Jones. Scott has worked with brands including Nike and is currently completing The Grey Line, a series of portraits of former soldiers documenting the consequences of war. She photographed The Lost World for Twin’s Issue IV.

 

 

 

Judy Linn


Judy Linn was an art student who had just started to make photographs when she began collaborating with Patti Smith. Together they created a series of photographs that echoed film stills and fashion spreads. Judy’s photographs featured in Smith’s memoir Just Kids and more than 100 of her images made up her book Patti Smith 1969-1976.

June Newton


June Browne Newton was born in Melbourne in 1923 and although initially an Australian actress, she later became a successful photographer under the ironic pseudonym “Alice Springs”. The wife of fashion photographer Helmut Newton, she is known for images of celebrities such as Brigitte Nielson and Robert Mapplethorpe.

Kenneth Cappello


Brought up on Houston skateboarding and punk rock scene, Kenneth Cappello’s photography radiates youthful energy. Since 2001 Kenneth has shot campaigns for Nike and Stussy, editorial for international fashion magazines and records featuring the likes of Alicia Keys and The White Stripes amongst others. In 2006 Capello made his directorial debut with The Kills No Wow video and has since shot enigmatic rocker Alison Mosshart for Twin as well as the original indie girl Chloe Sevigny.

Lachlan Bailey


Influenced at an early age by cinematography, Lachlan Bailey’s pictures possess a very personal take on colour, light and beauty. Originally from Australian moved to London and broke into fashion and portrait photography. He is currently based in New York.

 

 

 

Laura Holmes


Laura founded her namesake production company in 2010. It was one of the first to embrace film production for fashion brands and has established a reputation for championing and supporting talented new photographers and directors, matchmaking brands with artists. Based in a studio by the canal in East London, Laura and her team produce motion, stills and select events for fashion and luxury goods brands including Marc Jacobs, Maiyet, Swire Hotels and Louis Vuitton. They produced 3 shoots for issue 8 of Twin (with Annemarieke Van Drimmelen, Ben Weller and Colin Dodgson), and scouted the location for a fourth (with Mel Bles), this instigated several production firsts including the hiring of a toad and of an ambulance. Laura turns 30 on 1st May this year will be celebrating with friends, family, and a menagerie of novelty balloons.

Linda Brownlee


A native of County Kildaire, just outside Dublin, Linda Brownlee’s photography hangs on the relationships she creates with her subjects. For Issue II of Twin she recorded her relationship with her neighbours the Parkers and Linda’s decision to pursue photography while studying for her diploma in fine art, led her to London and a stint assisting portrait photographer Harry Borden in order to build up a body of work. Since then she’s not stopped shooting and has brought her insight to portraits for Twin including feminist Marsha Rowe.

 

 

 

 

Maciek Kobielski


New York based Maciek Kobielski is a fashion, editorial and lifestyle photographer. A regular contributor to international fashion magazines, his work has a raw and sexy edge.

Mari Sarai


Born in Japan, Mari Sarai went searching for the American dream in LA and in the process discovered photography. Having worked in LA, New York and Tokyo Sarai has shot everything from paparazzo shots to international fashion campaigns. Now living in London Mari has shot Louis Vuitton in East London for Twin and in 2011, NAKED, her book of female nudes was published.

Maria Mochnacz


Maria Mochnacz is a photographer and videomaker who has been working with musicians and bands since 1991. In particular she is known for her close creative relationship with PJ Harvey, both in photographs and videos. Mochnacz works solely in film, preferring process to digital photography.

Mark Kean


Scottish born photographer Mark Kean is based in London. His work is often inspired by characters, a sense of realism and the story behind an image. This sense of narrative is a constant inspiration throughout his work highlighting his film and photography background. His work can be found in titles including Dansk, GQ Style, Hero, I-D and Vogue Japan amongst others.

Mel Bles


London based photographer Mel Bles has been taking photos for over 15 years. A regular contributor to Twin, Mel recorded London’s fashion underground featuring Simone Rocha and Naomi Shimada for It’s a London Thing.

Michael Flores


Photographer and visual artist Michael Flores lives in New York and approaches both commercial and fine art photography with a similar eye in order to create a unique effect. For Twin the California native took Dree Hemingway on a West Coast road trip in Simone Rocha for The Importance of Being Dree. His first solo exhibition of portraits entitled, 4209, took place in 2011.

Michele Rafferty

Michele Rafferty
Michele Rafferty is a Design Consultant and Creative Director, Based in London she regularly commutes to Milan to work with Marni on their menswear line. She shoots for port magazine, iD magazine and is currently shooting a film for V magazine. Working mainly with menswear, her womenswear tends to be influenced by that. She has always been a tomboy.

Neil Bridge


Twin have been working with Neil Bridge since Issue I. The former graphic designer turned photographer shoots “the other side” of art, automotive design and creativity, all over Europe. Based in London, discovery and a fascination with found detail characterise his work.

 

 

Niall O’ Brien


Born in Dublin in 1979, Irish photographer and filmmaker Niall O’Brien studied fine art photography at the renowned Dun Laoghaire Institute of Art, Design and Technology. His visceral project Good Rats featured in Issue I of Twin and in Issue V he took Pixie Geldoff On the Road. The recipient of numerous photography prizes, his most recent film Anger was shown at Block T Gallery in Dublin as part of the 2011 Photo Ireland Festival and will continue on to London in 2012.

Nick Dorey


Nick Dorey photographed Riot Boys for Twin’s Issue IV and Top Girls, as well as The House Of The Rising Sun, for Issue V. The London-based photographer has worked for brands such as Preen and also contributes to publications such as i-D and Russh.

 

 

 

Paul Wetherell


Paul Wetherell photographed Use Your Illusion for Twin’s Issue II, She Bangs The Drums for Issue IV and Theory Of Everything for Issue V. He has shot campaigns for brands such as Barneys, Dunhill and Burberry.

Peter Juhl


Danish photographer Peter Juhl studied photography in Copenhagen before moving to California in 2012. His work has been featured in various publications such as New York Times, LA Times and Politikken, and has also been exhibited in Copenhagen and Los Angeles. A popular series he is known for is his portraits of Daniel Johnston. He is currently based in Los Angeles.

Ross McDonnell


Dublin born Ross McDonnell has worked as a photographer, cinematographer and director. Twice nominated for an Irish Film and Television Award, his film work has screened at festivals around the world, with his documentary, Colony, receiving it’s world premiere at the Toronto International Film Festival and winning the First Appearance Award for first feature film at IDFA in Amsterdam.

Ryan McGinley


New Jersey born Ryan McGinley has created a varied body of work encompassing themes such as skaters, musicians, graffiti artists and candid portraiture. His subjects display a self-awareness that is decidedly contemporary and an understanding of how identity can not only be communicated, but created.

 

Tara Darby

Tara Darby
Tara Darby is a photographer based in London. She has contributed to many international publications including Another, Dazed and Confused, Japanese Vogue, The New York Times, The Telegraph Magazine and was recently part of the Photographers’ Gallery ‘World in London’ exhibition.  She has also exhibited at Yonka Shonibare’s Space, Paul Smith’s Globe, The Printspace and Transition Gallery.  She has published several books including ‘Delaine Le Bas: Room’, Tutto Lula, ‘We are Only Humans’, ‘Waves’ and ‘Literary Journey: The Heart is a Lonely Hunter’ which was featured in Another. Her photographs were also used in Jenny Saville’s first monograph published by Rizzoli.

Taryn Simon


New Yorker Taryn Simon’s most recent work, A Living Man Declared Dead and Other Chapters, was exhibited at Tate Modern, London. Her work is characterized by a meticulous research process and a commitment to her ideas. For her project Contraband Taryn lived in John F Kennedy International Airport from November 16 through November 20, 2009. She documented items including counterfeit American Express travelers checks, overproof Jamaican rum, heroin, a dead hawk, an illegal Mexican passport, deer penis, counterfeit Louis Vuitton bags, steroids and an ostrich egg.

 

The Selby


Todd Selby is a portrait, interiors, and fashion photographer and illustrator. His project The Selby – started in June 2008 – offers an insider’s view of creative individuals in their personal spaces with an artist’s eye for detail. Since then Todd has collaborated with brands such as Louis Vuitton and Hennessy. His first book, The Selby is in Your Place, was released in May 2010. Todd currently lives in New York City. His pastimes include eating four square meals a day, tying his shoes, planning vacations, breaking his computers, and working on his tan.

Thomas Brown


Thomas’s aesthetic is graphic, linear and beautifully simple. Born in Aylesbury in 1981, Thomas Brown graduated from The Arts Institute in Bournemouth in 2004. Following a move to London he worked in-house at Condé Nast and as an assistant to Dan Tobin Smith. He uses his cameras as facilitators of his ideas, looking for visual humour, playing with illusion and surface.

 

 

 

Thomas Giddings


Thomas Giddings is a photographer who graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2007. His first ever camera was a snappy-snaps disposable which he bought for a trip to Los Angeles when he was 6, and so started an ever growing passion for photography and travel. Thomas has shot for various clients including British Vogue, i-D, Nowness, Twin, Hercules and Garage. He balances this with personal projects and is currently working on his third solo photography show and accompanying book to launch in 2014.

Tim Barber


Tim Barber grew up in Amherst Massachusetts, lived for a few years in the mountains of Northern Vermont, studied photography in Vancouver B.C. and now lives in New York City. A photographer, curator and designer, Barber runs the online gallery and image archive Tiny Vices, which he founded in 2005. For Issue IV of Twin he shot NYC artist and contemporary Aurel Schmidt

 

 

 

 

Trevor Good


Lives and works in Berlin.

Will Davidson


New York based photographer and director Will Davidson works principally in fashion but defies categorisation. His work encompasses advertising, film, web 2.0, fine art and contemporary dance. Having studied at Sydney College of the Arts, Will moved to London and in 2000 met David Bailey and was appointed his first assistant. Since then he has published the books, Locations in 2004 and Democracy in 2005. For Issue III of Twin Will deconstructed both movement and tailoring in his contemporary dance inspired editorial Let’s Dance.

Writers

Alannah Sparks

Alannah Sparks is a freelance writer and fashion editor living in East London. Having previously worked as acting online fashion editor at ELLE, her writing on fashion, culture, nightlife and travel has appeared in publications such as Stylist, Grazia, WWD, ELLE, The Irish Times, Daily Candy, Vogue.co.uk and Twenty6.

Ana Finel Honigman

Ana Finel Honigman is a New York-born and London/Berlin-based critic and independent exhibition curator. She writes about contemporary art and fashion for international magazines. A Sarah Lawrence graduate, Ana has completed a Masters degree and is a D.Phil candidate in the History of Art at Oxford University.

Amy Sackville


Amy Sackville studied English and theatre studies at Leeds University, before completing an MA at Oxford’s Exeter College, before taking a job in the publishing industry. She also studied an MPhil in creative writing at London’s Goldsmiths College. Amy’s debut novel The Still Point won the 2010 John Llewellyn Rhys Prize.

Bethan Cole

Bethan Cole
Bethan Cole has worked for the Sunday Times Style and Vogue. She is currently Grooming Editor of GQ Style, Editor of Aesop Register and a columnist for aMUSE magazine.

 

 

 

Catherine Redfern

Catherine Redfern founded The F-Word and was Editor from 2001-2007. She is from Tameside, Manchester and has been living in London for about ten years, much to her parents’ annoyance. She co-authored Reclaiming The F Word: The New Feminist Movement, a book about the resurgence and reclamation of feminism over the last ten years, today’s issues and today’s feminist activism. The book was published in June 2010 by Zed Books.

Eleanor Morgan

Eleanor Morgan is a Contributing Editor on Observer Food Monthly.

Freire  Barnes

Freire Barnes is a freelance arts writer, online video interviewer and curator. She also works on a variety of Curatorial and Public Art Projects. She reported on arts celluloid junkies for Issue IV of Twin.

Daisy Garnett


Daisy Garnett is an arts and style journalist as well as contributing editor to Vogue. In her gap year she hiked through Bolivia , Chile and Peru. In between times – among other things – she has sailed from New York across the Atlantic in a 48 foot boat, crossed the desert from Palmyra to Damascus on camel, travelled with the Royal Navy to the North Pole. She is the author of Cooking Lessons: Tales from the Kitchen and Other Stories.

Francesca Martin

Francesca Martin
Francesca Martin is co-founder of A-LittleBird.com and contributing editor to Harper’s Bazaar. She has written for The Guardian, Intelligent Life and Vogue.

 

 

 

 

Hannah Nixon

Born in Brighton, Hannah Nixon is a freelance writer and editor based in London. She specialises in menswear and has worked with mrporter.com, NOWNESS, HERO AND Varon magazine among others. Her middle name is Leoncé, which she used to hate but now loves because it rhymes with Beyonce.

Jack J Hutchinson

Jack J Hutchinson
London based Jack J Hutchinson is an artist, writer and educator. A specialist in the role of digital technology within the visual arts, his writing has featured in a diverse range of publications, including Dazed and Confused, Garageland, the Guardian, Twin Magazine, a-n Magazine and Schweizer Kunst. His drawings have been exhibited internationally and are held in various private collections throughout the UK.

Jackie Kay

Jackie Kay
Jackie Kay was born and brought up in Scotland. She is Professor of Creative Writing at Newcastle University and has won many awards for her numerous works such as the Guardian Fiction Award, the Forward Prize, a Saltire prize and a Scottish Arts Council Prize and has been shortlisted for the JR Ackerley prize and the London Book Award as well as others. She was awarded an MBE in 2006, and made a fellow of the Royal Society of Literature in 2002. Her new book of short stories Reality, Reality was recently published by Picador.

Jem Goulding


Jem Goulding is a poet, story teller and hopeless romantic. She writes words and takes pictures and more recently is combining her words and pictures for film-making, with traditional sensibilities. As a music journalist, she was instrumental in breaking acts such as Black Lips, Mumford & Sons and Warpaint into the media, before their mass popularity. She is due to release The Companion, a book of her photographs and memoirs spanning five years of travel and its intimate romances.

 

Karley Sciortino


New York based Karley Sciortino started her blog Slutever in 2007. Focusing on the darker aspects of sex that aren’t necessarily discussed over lunch with your mother, Slutever is an investigation into modern sexual behavior. Karley also writes music and culture articles for international magazines.

Kevin Braddock


Former Features Editor of The Face, Kevin Braddock is a graduate of Goldsmiths College with a First Class Degree in European Languages. For Twin he’s interviewed Shane Meadows, Dean Rogers and LoneLady. He also edits biannual men’s magazine Manzine.

 

Kristin Aune


Kristin Aune is a senior lecturer in sociology at the University of Derby and co-author (with Catherine Redfern) of Reclaiming the F Word: The New Feminist Movement (Zed Books).

 

Lauren Cochrane


East London based Lauren Cochrane, was i-D’s Deputy Editor from 2006-2008. A journalist since 2000 and a Londoner since the age of six, Lauren is passionate about art, music and youth culture. She first put her skills to use for the magazine in 2004. Today, she is a freelance fashion and style writer.

Lauren Sherman


Brooklyn-based journalist Lauren Sherman mostly writes about business and fashion, or the intersection thereof. She has contributed to Forbes, Businessweek, and Ad Age, as well as Fashionista.com, Style.com, and Lucky, among others. She lives and works from her Vinegar Hill loft alongside her husband and maltipoo.

Marsha Rowe


Marsha Rowe was a co-founding editor of Spare Rib and was also involved in starting Virago, the first women’s publishing house in the UK. As freelance editorial consultant she works with new writers, experienced authors switching genres, and helps writers of both fiction and non-fiction to find successful publication.

Monique Todd


Monique Todd is freelance music and arts writer, regularly contributing to Dazed and Confused and Hunger TV. She has interviewed artists such as A$AP Rocky, Kendrick Lamar, Emeli Sande, Toro Y Moi and Bondax. Former Online Editor at Live Magazine with in an interest in space and exibitions, Monique has curated at Boxpark Shoreditch and sits on the Editorial board for the Louis Vuitton young arts project ‘RE-Creative’. She is currently completing a BA in English Literature and Media.

Natasha Walter


Natasha Walter is a British feminist writer and human rights activist. She is the author of Living Dolls: The Return of Sexism and The New Feminism. She Natasha Walter lives in London with her partner and their two children. She is the director of Women for Refugee Women.

 

 

 

Mélanie Crété

Mélanie Crété is a (French) London-based strategist in Digital Communications in the fashion and luxury market. She truly loves: her friends, her Mac, sunsets, Mariah Carey, big leather bags, Phoenix, gems, the smell of Amber and Jasmin, Chanel, Françoise Hardy, all shades of blue, Guy Bourdin, LCD Soundsystem, Gold, and a bit of tackyness.
She truly hates: too many things…

Paul Kneale


Paul Kneale is an artist and writer based in London.  He tweets @paulkneale

Ruth Saxelby


Ruth Saxelby is a music journalist based in Brixton, London. She has hung out with Grimes in Vancouver for Dazed & Confused’s cover feature, written about Drake’s YouTube sampling for The Guardian and interviewed everyone from Actress to The xx for Dummy, where she is an associate editor. A regular contributor to Pitchfork, she also does a monthly show on local radio station NTS. She interviewed new pop duo AlunaGeorge for Twin VIII.

Shelia Rowbotham


Sheila Rowbotham is a British socialist feminist theorist and writer. Rowbotham was born in Leeds, the daughter of a salesman for an engineering company and an office clerk. Towards the end of the 1960s she had become involved in the growing Women’s Liberation Movement and, in 1969, published her influential pamphlet “Women’s Liberation and the New Politics”. The author of numerous books in 2009 her biography of Edward Carpenter was shortlisted for the James Tait Black Memorial Prize.

Simon Rich


New York raised Simon Rich is an American humorist, novelist, and television writer, best known for being the youngest writer ever hired on Saturday Night Live and writing the Thurber Prize-nominated humor collection Ant Farm: And Other Desperate Situations.

Sloane Crosley


Sloane Crosley is a writer living in New York and the author of the best-selling collections of essays, I Was Told There’d Be Cake and How Did You Get This Number. She also worked as a publicist at the Vintage Books division of Random House. In 2011 Sloane appeared as herself on the television show Gossip Girl.

Stephanie Theoabld

Stephanie Theobold
Stephanie Theoabld is a journalist and author of four novels. Her latest, A Partial Indulgence, about obsessive love and the excesses of the art world, was written after her 4-year stint as Society Editor of Harper’s Bazaar.

Susanna Davies-Crook

Susanna Davies Crook
Susanna Davies-Crook is an artist and art writer based in London and Berlin. She is Contributing Visual Arts Editor at Dazed & Confused Magazine, Contributing Editor at Berlin-based Sleek Magazine, and Art Editor for Exberliner Magazine.  Having studied Fine Art and History of Art at Camberwell College of Arts [UoA London], University of Leeds and University of California, Berkeley she is studying for an MA in Sculpture at the Royal College of Art. In the past she has been nominated for a TotalTheatre award at Edinburgh Festival 2010, shortlisted for Dazed/Converse Emerging Artists Award 2010-2012, judged the Dazed/Casio Art Award 2012 and worked on projects for The James Taylor Gallery, The Hayward Gallery, The Museum of Everything and cross-platform projects for Coney.

Susie Orbach


Susie Orbach, the psychotherapist and writer, co-founded The Women’s Therapy Centre in 1976. Her work on eating problems spans many professional journals and books including Fat is a Feminist Issue 1978, Fat is a Feminist Issue II 1982, Hunger Strike 1986 and On Eating 2002. Her latest book Bodies, was published in January 2009.

Victoria Floethe

Victoria Floethe
Victoria is the founder of The Desire Project, an interview series and website about girls and what they want in life, love, and in bed. She attended Vassar College, and has worked for Vanity Fair and written for Slate, the Guardian, and the Spectator. She lives in New York City.

Stylists

Alastair McKimm


Hailing from Belfast, Alastair McKimm graduated with a BA in Fashion from Nottingham Trent. A former assistant to Edward Enninful and Twin fashion editor, he styled Her Dark Materials for Issue IV.

Clare Shilland


Based in London, Clare continues to explore the links between fashion and portraiture in her editorial work for magazines such as i-D, French Elle and Beat. Her most recent commission for Milanese fashion house, Marni, is a soon-to-be-released book, art directed by Dean Langley.

Gillian Wilkins


Gillian Wilkins styled Stand And Deliver for Twin’s Issue I and Pussy Galore for Issue II. She grew up in Brisbane, Australia and is currently fashion director at Russh.

 

Hanna Kelifa


Hanna Kelifa is a stylist living and working in London. In 2006 she joined Edward Enninful’s team and went on to work as his first assistant for a number of years. Later joining the iconic I-D magazine as Womenswear editor before going on to become a freelance stylist. Contributing to publications including American Vogue, W, i-D, Twin, Vogue Russia, L’Uomo Vogue, Russh and Exit. With a client list that includes Armani Jeans, Aquascutum, Paul Smith Jeans, Stella McCartney for Adidas, Topshop and Burberry.

Heathermary Jackson

Heathermary Jackson
Born and raised in New Zealand, Heathermary Jackson moved to London to pursue a career as a fashion stylist. While her first independent projects appeared in Dazed & Confused, Heathermary eventually accepted a position as a fashion editor at Face Magazine. Two years after being promoted to fashion director at Face, Heathermary decided to help launch America Magazine- a choice that involved relocating to New York. Heathermary has contributed to magazines such as American Vogue, L’Uomo Vogue, Arena Homme Plus, British Elle, Numero Tokyo and Purple Fashion. She also works with a top-tiered list of photographers, including Steven Klein and Terry Richardson. Today she is the fashion director at Hobo.

Joanna Schlenzka


British stylist Joanna Schlenzka graduated from Edinburgh University in 2000 where she studied English Literature, and promptly started her career as Fashion Editor at the influential London magazine Dazed & Confused, where she was soon promoted to the role of Senior Fashion Editor. After five years working full-time at Dazed & Confused, Joanna took on a contributing position at Dazed and Another Magazine in order to concentrate on her freelance work. Other magazines that Joanna contributes to include Harper’s UK, US Vogue, British Vogue, Chinese Vogue, Russian Vogue, Japanese Vogue, Vogue Taiwan, Muse, 10 Magazine, Interview, Ponystep and Lula. Joanna has also styled shows for Mark Fast, Todd Lynn, Felder Felder, Jenny Packham, Yiqing Yin and Jasmine di Milo. In 2011 Joanna became the Fashion Director of Mixt(e) magazine.

Joanne Blades


Joanne Blades styled Bound For Glory in Twin’s Issue V. Her other projects include working on Jill Stuart’s runway shows and advertising campaigns.

Michelle Cameron

Michelle Cameron styled Alison Mosshart for Road Kill in Issue III of Twin Magazine and Chloë Sevigny Kick-Ass in Issue IV. She has also worked on campaigns for brands such as Karen Walker Eyewear.

Moses Moreno

Moses Moreno styled Dree Hemingway for the Importance Of Being Dree in Twin’s Issue III. He has previously worked with celebrities such as Maria Bello.

Robert Storey


Robert is a London based set designer, working within the international fashion industry. His clients include Kenzo, Victoria Beckham, Pollini, Jaeger, Harvey Nichols, Stella McCartney, Nicholas Kirkwood and Topshop. He has been commissioned for publications including British Vogue, AnOther magazine, i-D, POP, Nowness and V MAN with photography collaborations including Angelo Panetta, Daniel Sannwald, Tyrone Lebon, Scott Trindle, Josh Olins and Matt Irwin.

Ruth Higginbotham


Ruth Higginbotham was born in Dublin but is now based in London. She styled Song Of Myself for Twin’s Issue II and has worked with brands including Vans and Fred Perry, as well as styled celebrities such as Erin O‘ Connor, Zara Philips and Amber Anderson.

Sam s


Sam Ranger styled The Look Of Love for Twin’s Issue IV. Formerly fashion editor of POP, he is now fashion director of EXIT magazine and has worked with House Of Holland.

 

 

Sara Moonves

Sara Moonves
Sara Moonves is a stylist and Senior Fashion Editor at T, The New York Times Style Magazine. Her career began at American Vogue assisting Executive Fashion Director Phyllis Posnick. She is also a Senior Contributing Fashion Editor at POP and contributes to i-D. She is from Los Angeles but lives in New York.

Tracey Nicholson

Born in Belfast, Northern Ireland Tracey moved to London to study at Central Saint Martins. Upon graduating she began her career at Dazed & Confused and Another Magazine assisting Fashion Director Alister Mackie. She then moved to New York to assist Tabitha Simmons with her freelance projects and at American Vogue. Tracey began working independently in 2010 and contributes to publications such as W, Dazed & Confused, Muse, Another Magazine, The Last Magazine, Dossier, American Vogue and Teen Vogue. Her range of commercial clients include Costume National, Burberry, Edun, Topshop, Lacoste, Kipling, Biotherm, Sunspel, Uniqlo, Nike and Swarovski. Tracey currently resides between London and New York.

Zoe James


Zoe James styled The Girl Can’t Help It for Twin’s Issue II and has also worked on campaigns for Emporio Armani, Liberty, Louis Vuitton and Nike, as well as shows for Holly Fulton and Topshop.

Artists

Alex Hubbard


Alex Hubbard contributed to Cut Copy in Twin Issue IV. The NY-based artist is known for his multi-directional video work. Hubbard has previously exhibited at galleries including the Palais de Tokyo, Whitney Museum of American Art and PS1.

Amie Dicke


Amie Dicke is a Rotterdam-based artist who completed a degree in Fine Art at the Willem de Kooning Academy of Fine Arts and specialises in image modification. She contributed to Ninety-Nine Years Of Solitude in Twin Issue II.

Angelika Markul


Angelika Markul’s work combines painting, videos and installation. She has exhibited at the Chatelet Theatre, BWA Gallery and the Fondation Cartier. Markul’s work was featured in Celluloid Junkies of Twin Issue IV.

Annie Morris


Annie Morris is a painting, sculpture and collage artist whose training includes the Ecole Nationale des Beaux Arts and The Slade. She has exhibited at the Allsopp Contemporary, Jeannie Freilich Fine Art gallery and The Daniel Katz Gallery. Morris contributed to Ninety-Nine Years Of Solitude in Twin Issue II.

Andrea Longacre-White


Andrea Longacre-White continues her interest in the photography/technology/digital meditation nexus. Longacre-White is based in Los Angeles, but studied at the Royal College of Art and received a BA from Hampshire College. She has exhibited in galleries and museums internationally.

Aurel Schmidt


Aurel Schmidt is a NY-based artist who specialises in drawing and has exhibited at galleries such as The Fireplace Project and Deitch Projects. Schmidt was featured in There’s Something About Aurel of Twin Issue IV.

Clunie Reid


Clunie Reid is a London-based artist who has exhibited at Tate Britain and Focal Point Gallery. Her photo collage work is known for its deliberate use of cheap materials and fragmentation. Reid was featured in Dirty Sexy Clunie of Twin Issue IV.

Conrad Ventur


Video installation artist Conrad Ventur was featured in Celluloid Junkies of Twin Issue IV. His art education includes a MFA at Goldsmiths College and he has since exhibited at galleries such as Momenta Art and ICA.

David Noonan


Originally from Australia, David Noonan is a now London-based collage artist. He has exhibited at galleries including the Chisenhale Gallery, David Kordansky Gallery and Palais de Tokyo. Noonan was featured in Something From Nothing in Twin Issue I.

Eli Cortiñas


Eli Cortiñas is a Cologne-based film artist who was featured in Celluloid Junkies of Twin Issue IV. A winner of the Award for Young Artists of the Country of NRW in 2009, she has exhibited at The Young Art Fair in Basel and Guggenheim Gallery, as well as had screenings at the Centre Pompidou and European Media Art Festival.

Eve Marie Rødbro


Danish photographer and video Eva Marie Rødbro has previously exhibited at the Trajector Art Fair, FOAM and Peter Lav Gallery. She won the Barbara Aronofsky Latham Award for Emerging Experimental Video Artist in 2011. Rødbro was featured in Cut Copy of Twin Issue V.

 

Fiona Banner


Sculpture, drawing and installation artist Fiona Banner graduated from Goldsmiths College. The YBA was short-listed for the Turner Prize in 2002 and has since been commissioned for artwork at Tate Britain and exhibited at galleries such as MoMa. Banner contributed to Peep Show in Twin Issue I.

Friedrich Kunath


Los Angeles-based artist Friedrich Kunath is a multimedia artist working with scuplture, painting, video and drawing techniques. He has exhibited at galleries including the Hammer Museum, White Cube and Andrea Rosen Gallery. Kunath contributed to It’s All Too Beautiful in Twin Issue V.

 

Garance Doré


French fashion blogger, photographer and illustrator Garance Doré founded her immensely successful, self-titled blog in 2006. Since then, Doré has photographed campaigns for brands like Tiffany’s & Co., Petit Bateau and Moschino. She was featured in J’adore Doré in Twin Issue I.

Harry Malt


Harry Malt is a London-based artist and illustrator who has worked for the likes of Colette Paris and McCann Erickson. He contributed to It’s A Wrap in Twin Issue I.

 

 

Immodesty Blaize


Burlesque dancer Immodesty Blaize (born Kelly Fletcher) was featured in The Age Of Ambition in Twin Issue III. She has performed at venues such as the Royal Opera House and with bands such as Goldfrapp, as well as produced the feature length documentary Burlesque Undressed. She is also the author of two novels, Tease: the Secrets of a Showgirl and Ambition.

Jen Ray


Hailing from South Carolina, Jen Ray is a printmaking,painting and photography artist based in Berlin. She has exhibited at galleries such as Grim Museum, Galerie Emmanuel Perrotin and Temporary Space. Ray contributed to The Age Of Ambition in Twin Issue III.

 

 

Kate Merry


Kate Merry is a London-based illustrator, painter and sculptor. Her work was featured in House Classics in Twin Issue II and Ride On Time in Issue IV.

 

 

Linder Sterling


Linder Sterling is a visual and performance artist, as well as musician. Known for her feminist roots, she is co-founder of the fanzine Secret Public and of the post-ounk group Ludus. She has exhibited at Cleveland Gallery, Stuart Shave/Modern Art and the Tate Gallery. Sterling contributed to Female Intuition in Twin Issue II.

Louise Bourgeois


Louise Joséphine Bourgeois is a French-American artist and sculptor, known for her contribution to the genre of confessional and LGBT equality-promoting art, which was exhibited at art galleries such as Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, Tate Modern and the Centre Georges Pompidou before she passed away in 2010. Bourgeois was featured in Ninety-Nine Years Of Solitude in Twin Issue II.

Marian Bantjes


Marian Bantjes is a designer, typographer, writer and illustrator based in Canada. She has worked for the likes of Saks Fifth Avenue, Ogilvy & Mather Chicago and The New York Times. She contributed to The Age Of Ambition in Twin Issue III.

 

 

Matt Lipps


Matt Lips is a San Francisco-based photography artist who has exhibited at Josh Lilley Gallery, Silverman Gallery and Harvey Levin Gallery to name a few. His work is part of the LACMA and Hammer Museum permanent collections. Lipps contributed to Cut Copy in Twin Issue V.

Peter Blake


Sir Peter Thomas Blake is an English pop artist, known especially for his design of the sleeve for the Beatles’ album Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. He has previously exhibited at the Tate Gallery, Institute of Contemporary Arts and Pallant House Gallery and was honoured with a CBE and knighthood for his work in the arts sector. Blake was featured in Songs Of Innocence And Experience in Twin Issue I.

Rose Blake


Rose Blake is a London-based illustrator and a member of the This Is It collective. She has previously worked for The Times, It’s Nice That Magazine and the BBC website. Blake was featured in Songs Of Innocence And Experience in Twin Issue I.

Sam Griffin


Sam Griffin is a London-based artist specialising in drawing who has exhibited at Gallery Vela, Galerie Schirman de Beaucé and City Arts Centre. He was featured in Super Future City of Twin Issue I.

 

Sam Winston


Working with sculptures and drawings, Sam Winston’s work has been exhibited at galleries like the Courtauld Institute of Art. He is also an author whose books can be found in the special collections of museums such as the MoMA New York and Tate Galleries. Winston was featured in Word Up of Twin Issue I.

Seb Patane


Sicilian-born and London-based artist and DJ Seb Patane has exhibited at galleries such as the Belvedere and Augarten Contemporary, Tate Britain and Maureen Paley. Patane contributed to Spellbound in Twin Issue I.

 

 

Sophie Calle


Sophie Calle is a French installation/ conceptual artist, writer and photographer. She has previously exhibited at the Palais des Beaux-Arts, Whitechapel Art Gallery and Museum of Modern Art Bahia. Calle was featured in Double Vision of Twin Issue III.

Tracey Emin


Tracey Emin, a member of the YBA movement and previous Turner Prize nominee, has exhibited her work at galleries such as the Hayward Gallery, White Cube, Gagosian and Royal Academy, where she is currently Professor of Drawing. She is also an author and known for her continuous charity involvement. Emin contributed to Ninety-Nine Years Of Solitude in Twin Issue II.

Poets

Aviva Dautch


Aviva Dautch is a London-based poet and Creative Educator for the British Library. She regularly contributes to Poetry Review and her work has been published in magazines including Modern Poetry in Translation and The Long Poem. Dautch’s work was featured in The Letter Set of Twin’s Issue IV.

Carol Ann Duffy


Carol Ann Duffy is a Scottish poet and playwright, as well as Professor of Contemporary Poetry at the Manchester Metropolitan University. She was appointed Britain’s poet laureate in 2009 and has previously won the Scottish Arts Council Award, the Somerset Maugham Award and the T.S. Eliot Prize. Duffy’s work was featured in Rhymes & Reasons of Twin’s Issue I.

Francesca Beard


Francesca Beard was born in Malaysia and currently resides in London. A performance poet, she has toured internationally with her show Chinese Whispers and has written plays for BBC Radio 4. She runs international creative writing workshops with the British Council Live Literature Department and has been writer in residence at institutions including the Barbican. Her work was published in Female Intuition of Twin Issue II.

Jo Shapcott


Jo Shapcott was featured in The Letter Set of Twin Issue IV. She is a poet, editor and lecturer and has won awards such as the National Poetry Competition, Costa Book of the Year and the Forward Poetry Prize.

Her most recent body of work, The Transformers, was published in 2011.

 

 

Kate Potts


Kate Potts is a poet whose work has been featured in Voice Recognition: 21 Poets for the 21st Century and she has been shortlisted for the Michael Marks Award. Her debut body of work Bloodaxe was published in 2011. Potts’ work appeared in The Letter Set of Twin Issue IV.

Kate Tempest


Kate Tempest is a rapper, poet and playwright. A band member of Sound of Rum, she has performed at festivals including Glastonbury and Latitude, and performed her poetry on Radio One and the BBC6 Music show. Tempest was featured in Peckham’s Prophet of Twin Issue II.

Sophie Robinson


Sophie Robinson is a London-based multimedia poet and performer. Her debut book Les Figues was published in 2009. She is currently completing a novel-length publication, SHE!, which explores lesbianism in popular culture. Her work was featured in Word Up of Twin’s Issue III.

Singers/Musicians

Alejandra Deheza


Alejandra Deheza was featured in Twins And The Double of Twin’s Issue Issue III. Born in Guatemala, the New York-based singer is member of the group School Of Seven Balls.

Alison Mosshart


Alison Mosshart is the lead singer for indie rock band The Kills and was featured in Issue III of Twin. Born in 1978, she started performing in 1995 with punk band Discount and later co-founded The Kills with Jamie Hince in 2000. She is also performs as part of The Dead Weather, founded by Jack White.

Kathleen Hanna


Known as the lead singer of Riot Grrrl band Bikini Kill, Kathleen Hanna is a also a feminist activist and writer. She is also member of the group Le Tigre and started a solo project, The Julie Ruin, in 1997. Hanna was featured in This Is Not A Test of Twin Issue V.

Katy Goodman


Katy Goodman is a member of New York-based band Vivian Girls and formed the musical side project All Saints Day with Gregg Foreman. She started her solo project La Sera in August 2010. Goodman was featured in Issue IV of Twin.

 

Kristin Hersh


Kristin Hersh was featured in The Age Of Ambition of Twin Issue III. Born in Atlanta, Georgia the musician and author is known for her her solo acoustic performances and as lead singer of the alternative rock band Throwing Muses. Her memoirs Rat Girl were released in 2010.

Lonelady


Lonelady (real name: Julie Campbell) is an English, post-punk musician whose debut album Nerve Up was released in 2010. A Fine Arts graduate from Manchester Metropolitan University, she was interviewed for Song Of Myself in Issue II of Twin.

Patti Smith


Patti Smith was featured in The Female Gaze of Twin Issue IV. Born in Chicago in 1946, the singer, poet, author and artist is also known as the ‘Godmother of Punk’. Her most famous album was the 1976 release Horses. Smith, whose memoirs Just Kids won her the National Book Award, is currently working on a London-set crime novel.

PJ Harvey


PJ Harvey was featured in Twin’s Issue IV piece The Female Gaze. PJ Harvey is an alternative rock musician and artist who started her career in 1988 and has released 10 albums to date. Recent work includes Let England Shake, produced in collaboration with photo-journalist Seamus Murphy.

Soko


Stéphanie Sokolinski, aka Soko,was born and raised in France. She released her first single in 2007, has toured with M.I.A. and founded her own record label Babycat Records. Her debut album I Thought I Was An Alien is due for release on February 20th 2012. She has acted in French television series and films such as À L’origine by Xavier Giannoli. Soko was featured in in Bright Star of Twin’s
Issue I.

Film Makers

Alexandra McGuinness


The Dublin-born, London-based director made her successful debut with the film Lotus Eaters at Tribeca Film Festival. A graduate from the London Film School, she is currently working on her second feature film. McGuinness was featured in Top Girls in Twin Issue V.

Céline Sciamma


Céline Sciamma is a French film director and screenwriter. Her most recent work includes Tomboy, Pauline and Water Lilies. She contributed to If I Were A Boy in Twin Issue V.

 

 

Miranda July


Miranda July is a filmmaker, writer and artist whose work has been displayed at the Museum of Modern Art and the Guggenheim Museum. Her first feature film Me and You and Everyone We Know garnered her awards at the Sundance and Cannes Film Festival. Her writing has appeared in The New Yorker and been honoured with the Frank O’Connor International Short Story Award. July contributed to The Age Of Aquarius in Twin Issue I.

Quentin Jones


Quentin Jones is a London-based filmmaker and illustrator. A former Cambridge philosophy graduate, she specialises in surrealist animation. She has worked with the lieks of Chanel, Holly Fulton and Rankin. Jones was featured in Top Girls in Twin Issue V.

 

 

 

Shane Meadows


Shane Meadows is a BAFTA award-winning director, screenwriter and actor. With his semi-autobiographical angle and post-modern style, he is most well-known for his film This Is England. Meadows was featured in Once Upon A Time In The Midlands in Twin Issue III.

Actresses

Chloë Sevigny


Actress, model and fashion designer Chloë Sevigny made her debut in the controversial 1995 film Kids. Since then Sevigny has garnered an Academy Award nomination and Golden Globe win for roles in films such as Boys Don’t Cry and television shows like Big Love. Sevigny was featured in Kick-Ass of Twin Issue IV.

Joana Preiss


Born in Marseille, Joana Preiss began her career in acting but was later discovered by Karl Lagerfeld as a model. Since then, she has starred in films such as The Unpolished, Paris, Je T’Aime and her own directorial debut Sibérie. Her latest film is the soon to be released Mary’s Ride directed by Thomas Imbach. Preiss was featured in The Preiss Is Right inTwin Issue II.

Joséphine De La Baume


Joséphine De La Baume has acted in films such as The Princess of Montpensier by Bertrand Tavernier, Our Day Will Come and One Day. She also performs as the singer and keyboard player of the band SINGTANK and modelled for brands such as Zadig & Voltaire and Agent Provocateur. De La Baume was featured in The Look Of Love in Twin Issue IV.

Kaya Scodelario


Kaya Scodelario is most well-known for her role on the television show Skins. She made her feature film debut in the 2009 film Moon opposite Sam Rockwell and has since acted in films such as Shank, Clash of the Titans and Wuthering Heights. Her most recent projects include Twenty8k, Stay With Me, Invisible and Love Life. Scodelario was featured in The Girl Can’t Help It in Twin Issue II.

Yasmin Paige


London-born Yasmin Paige began her career as a model at the age of four and debuted as an actress in 2003 with the film Wondrous Oblivion. Since then she has starred in the television show The Sarah Jane Adventures, Ballet Shoes and Submarine. Paige was featured in Top Girls in Twin Issue V.

The Skin I’m In

The best thing you can wear is your skin. A phrase coined almost by accident by Italian bag designer Barbara Boner: “It just popped into my head without me even thinking about it,” Barbara says. “I’m now 37 and at a stage in my life where I am completely comfortable in the skin I’m in – What I would love is if all women had the self-believe and self-assurance to believe in this too. I like to think that I can communicate with my customer through my brand motto.”

In March 2009, Barbara launched her first collection; a series of animal skin fringed bags aimed at the nomadic woman and inspired by the excitement of adventure and travel from both her own experiences and those belonging to her gypsy grandmother: “She was a traveller with the circus in which her act involved driving a motorcycle around a ring of fire.”

As Boner continues to elaborate on her family’s curiously unusual story, I am intrigued to know more about hers…

You’re originally from Italy — when and why did you decide to make the move to London?
I first moved to London with my parents when I was four years old but we only stayed for a couple of years. Being in London is actually one of my earliest memories. I remember that I loved the parks, in particular I loved the squirrels – we don’t have them in Italy!

Four years ago I was living in Ibiza where I met my husband – he’s from London so that’s why I decided to move here permanently.

You are professionally trained in psychology — what effect has this had on your design work?
I try to see the woman wearing my bags through both women’s eyes and men’s. I think I have quite a strong masculine vision of things as well as a feminine one.

I also studied Latin and Greek so that trained my mind to think with concepts. With my work there’s always a theory behind things – an imaginary world that supports my brand and designs. I enjoy creating this world each season just as much as creating the bags.

Each of your collections are centred around an imagined inspirational woman — tell me about the latest for spring / summer 2013…
The woman I have conceived for this season is totally connected to her environment and nature, so much so that she can morph her human-self into an animal but also a plant – She is both flora and fauna.

Sum up your label’s aesthetic in 3 words…
Rebel, regal and romantic.

Thanks to a stylish celebrity following including the likes of Kate Moss, Poppy Delevingne and Olivia Palermo, you’ve become the ‘go to girl’ for fringed bags — why did you decide to focus on fringing as your signature?
My mother was a hippy and was always wearing fringing so when I created my first collection I decided to feature it in homage to her. Everyone loved that aspect of it so I thought ‘OK – you want fringing – I will give you fringing!’

Also for me it means freedom and movement; the Native Americans have used fringing for centuries to disguise themselves as animals and plants for hunting purposes. So yet again it’s bringing back this idea of nature, flora and fauna.

Who are some of your favourite women from both the past and present?
I’m a massive Kate (Moss) fan. I also love women of the 60s like Bridget Bardot and Anita Pallenberg. My most recent bag design is called the ‘Tura’ after Tura Santana who was an actress and one of the first famous exotic dancers – She was truly revolutionary for her time and has the most incredible life story.

All my bags are named after strong and powerful women: There’s ‘The Ginger’ (inspired by Sharon Stone’s character in Casino), ‘The Roxanne’ (thanks to The Police song) and ‘The Lilith’ (who according to a Rabbinic legend was the disregarded first wife of Adam.)

How do you juggle running a business and being a full time mother?
It’s been difficult because I moved to London, started my label, and got pregnant all around the same time. But I just went for it and made it work – it’s amazing what us women can do!

Where are you stocked?
My pieces are stocked in over 50 locations worldwide. In the UK I’m in Feathers, London and Coggles, York as well as my own online store.

barbaraboner.co.uk

 

 

 

Stoned

Imagine being able to own a piece of jewellery that feels as special as a precious mineral formation or a breath-taking sunset. Jade Mellor, a talented young Designer and Maker- not to mention prolific one woman trinket band – from North West England, creates covetable pieces of statement jewellery from her magical little workshop deep within the English countryside. With an inspiring creative perspective and care for material, Jade crafts each piece by hand to ensure they each have a unique history and emotional value. Her striking work’s inevitably received a lot of attention and has been exhibited and stocked globally – from London to Dubai to San Francisco.

Twin spoke to Jade about her work…

Your Hewn collection of rings is always expanding and intriguing. How do you develop the collection?
Each piece is an experiment to find new textures by pushing the materials. I love discovering new things that I can use and feel that working with raw minerals, and other natural materials, in each original piece, adds to their uniqueness.

What materials have you used recently?
Recently I’ve been inspired by the Galaxy. By using a fragment of a real meteorite it makes you question the journey it’s made through space and time. To use this in something that can be worn everyday excites me – it’s like carrying around a little reminder that there are bigger things around you.

Do you have to seek out the inspiration for each piece or does it find you?
Both, but it helps to have an enquiring mind. When I acquire a specimen to use you will see me holding it up, feeling the weight and placing it on my hand, imagining how it would work as a wearable piece. Looking at how it occurs naturally is also an influence. The way pyrite naturally forms in cubes jutting out at odd angles is so sculptural. I have shelves of books on minerals with amazing close ups and the vast landscapes they form in. I’ll also spend hours wide eyed sketching rare specimens in natural history departments and on outdoor adventures.

What other things influence you?
Sculpture is a massive influence on me, particularly the Neo Concretist movement and also artists like Louise Nevelson. With the Isosceles ring I was thinking of ancient Egypt, the geometry of the pyramids combined with the textures brought on by being blasted by sand dunes over thousands of years. This combined with the use of Lapis lazuli and gold in ancient treasure filled tombs also gave me the colour. I mixed a pigment inspired by this strong blue.

How do you go about making your ideas a reality in jewellery form?
When I get back to the workshop, I might make some drawings, looking closely at the structure and create some first-hand scribbles on how I want it to look as a piece. Photography is a great tool too; in order to understand the angles and textures.

There is a basic shape that I start with that consists of making a block shape with a hole in it, like the pebbles you sometimes find on the beach with a natural hole in them. They are nicknamed Witches‘ stones and have been used as talismans since our ancestors started paying attention to unusual finds like these. From this, and how I have set the stone, I will start to carve out and sand back on the piece to achieve the shape I want, followed by lots of graded polishing to achieve the finish. Because the gold pyrite cube had a ruggedness, I wanted the blue of the resin to have a glossy liquid shine like a polished gem stone or an exotic pool of blue water with the jagged edge of metallic bursting through.

What do you feel makes your pieces so special?
I make each piece individually by hand from start to finish so that they’re  totally bespoke; using sand, shells and stones from a day at the beach or a piece of crumbled masonry from home means each piece has a personal significance. They can trigger a memory of a journey or experience, and in creating a piece that is not only inspired by, but also physically includes them, expresses their preciousness.

Jademellor.com

Words by Kerry Flint

 

LANVIN AW’12

Ever since Alber Elbaz unveiled his inspirational new ad-campaign for Lanvin A/W 2012 earlier this month, the fashion world has become increasingly intrigued over the identity of its featured “models”. However, last week the Parisian fashion house released a short film presenting a series of out-takes – shot by legendary fashion photographer, Steven Meisel – along with recorded interviews revealing personal anecdotes and insights into the lives of these new campaign stars. Amongst this group of colourful individuals with an impressive collective age range of 18-81 years old, we discover a salt & pepper shaker fanatic, a frozen blueberry addict and a James Bond wannabe. Also starring is the legendary former-dancer, Jacquie “Tajah” Murdock, whom recently was also featured in our current favourite fashion blog, Advanced Style.

Lanvin.com

First Resort

From secondary season to fully-fledged collections in their own right, this past year’s fashion cycle has all been about the rise of resort. Offering the ideal transition from autumn to summer, as well as designers an opportunity to prolong their retail exposure, the season has once and for all stepped out of its main collection sister’s shadow.

From Chloé’s countryside romanticism to Givenchy’s downtown gypsy look, Twin chooses our favourite not-so-in-between collections of the season…

Alexander Wang

Wang’s aesthetic has increasingly matured since his prolific rise and this collection was a clear departure from those tank top and knit beanie days.

The designer still kept his downtown cool thanks to streamlined sleeveless puffa jackets and midriff-baring vests in patent and croc leather, but by offsetting them with front-pleated, pegged trousers and refined chiffon dresses, the looks went from everyday casual to New Yorker chic.

 

Celine

Every season, through the slightest tweak of a silhouette or colour alteration, Phoebe Philo manages to conjure up a new line of fashion must-haves.

Progressing from her sportswear influenced A/W 12 showing, this collection was a combination of relaxed silhouettes such as wide-legged trousers and leather jumper/jogger combos, but added that typical Celine elegance through geometric prints, clean lines and a largely black and white-colour palette.

 

Chloé

Chloé designer Clare Waight Keller headed to the country for this collection, but those expecting Little House On The Prairie type looks are in for a big surprise.

Instead Keller took the best inspirations of rural life – think pale skye blue and neutrals, ethnic prints and crochet patterns – and infused it into the brand’s laid back romantic DNA, resulting in lightweight harem trousers, smock dresses,  waist-tie tops and scallop-edged shorts made for a summer in the city.

 

Christian Dior

An appropriate mix of historical references and contemporary elegance, these looks found their strength in the house of Dior’s archetypal look.

Classical waist-cinching shift dresses and tops with peplum hems were paired with cropped straight leg trousers and romantic knife-pleated chiffon skirts, whilst leather accents gave the whole collection a strikingly modern feel.

 

Givenchy

Presented in a street style photography approach, Riccardo Tisci fused strong tailoring with paisley and geometric prints for an urban bohemian look.

Leather and motif-printed capes stood alongside more relaxed silhouettes of harem trousers and silk shift dresses for a look that was truly Givenchy, but as always, has something new to bring to the table.

 

Proenza Schouler

Round-shouldered tweed jackets and capes, bleached slim cut jeans, low-slung flares, satin tuxedo trousers and laser cut neon cocktail dresses – this season Proenza Schouler offered the complete wardrobe for their brand’s cosmopolite cool audience.

With colours ranging from cream to ultramarine to pistachio, this was a collection that could go from day to endless night.

 

Stella McCartney

McCartney’s multifarious resort showing included sheer overlay pleated skirts, fringe tassel lace dresses, golden brocade print cap sleeve and short as well as bubblegum pink blazer and neon orange kick flare trousers combos.

Accessorised with sunshine yellow pointed toe platform pumps and holographic clutches, this collection made us that bit more excited for the summer.

 

 

Theyskens’ Theory

How to turn the essentials into something intriguing appeared to be the question on Olivier Theyskens’ mind this season. His answer ticked all the right boxes: oversized blazers were given an oil painting slick appearance thanks to silver velvet and watercolour-esque prints, shimmering lurex T-shirts and jumpers gained nighttime appeal and the tried but true boyfriend jean was fitted with just the right amount of slouch. Who said basic had to be boring?

 

 

Grimes Fashion Tale

Claire Boucher aka Grimes is undoubtably the girl of the moment. Not only are her tunes ludicrously catchy without the cliche, but her personal style is such that girls want to be her and guys want to be near her.

For Twin’s Issue VI we tasked photographer Tara Darby, stylist Michele Rafferty and hairstylist Selena Middleton with shooting Grimes.

Twin spoke to Michele Rafferty and Selena Middleton about collaborating on the shoot…

Hi Michele, you styled Grimes for Twin’s Issue VI. What are the differences between styling people and fashion models?
It requires a different sort of approach than with models not harder just different. Respecting her integrity whilst still creating something that works, feels relevant and reflects your own style, your obsessions…

How did you envision the shoot?
The team was key, it always is, but my thoughts about Grimes’ look was that I wanted to get away from the ethereal thing she often seems to have going on. I wanted something tougher and cleaner, also a sense of fun. I wanted her to be the coolest, hardest girl at school. So she’s a kind of grebo skinhead mix! She’s the girl I would have been bunking off a maths lesson with.

I chatted with Claire about what she was comfortable with. She was really open, very aware of the importance of creating interesting images. She also knew her own mind. Her only request was that she be allowed to keep her tights on. She doesn’t shave her legs, which is very unusual and very impressive. She’s a very cool young lady.

How did you work as a team?
Obviously when everyone arrives at the studio the ideas are all discussed and brought together. Selena and I are very much on the same wavelength as far as references go and she brought it all together with the coloured hairpieces, different colours for each outfit change.

It’s fun to work with people that have the same kind of visual reference library and their own brilliant obsessions. I think Tara’s images are lovely and unique, they show another side of Claire/Grimes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stripe dress Open Back, Miharayasuhiro
Cherry red boots, Dr. Martens

Where did you take your cues from for the look of the shoot?
As above, but more solid refs; Shane Meadows’ This Is England, youth cult mixes, luxury labels brought down to earth with DM boots.

What’s your personal attitude to fashion and styling?
I love clothes, it’s a language. People say so much about themselves in the way they dress. I find that fascinating and fun and funny.

What are your earliest outfit memories?
My mum made all our clothes. We were always the freaks! I just wanted white nylon tights like the other girls. Obviously now I know my sister and I looked adorable.

What item would make it into to your personal capsule wardrobe?
White men’s 100 per cent cotton T-shirt.

Whose style do you admire now and forever?
A sweeping statement, but, Jamaican men, disaffected youth, old English men. I also love a uniform.

What’s coming up next for you?
Shooting a short film with Clare Shilland for Marni Menswear S/S 13.

webberrepresents.com

White school uniform shirt, John Lewis
Navy crombie, Celine
Cherry red boots, Dr. Martens

Hi Selena, where did you start with the hair for the Grimes shoot?
Well it was a collaboration between Michele Rafferty, Tara Darby and myself.  Claire Grimes is the future of music, and like all young cool kids she likes to experiment, so we all decided it would be a good idea to change her hair colour in every shot to work with the outfits. For me this is the best form of artistic expression, no boundaries just believing what your doing is right.  I think Michelle and I are very much on the same page, and as a team we worked to get the best possible image.

What are your must have products?
Dry shampoo and Bumble and Bumble Brilliantine.

What look do you love at the moment?
Anything modern with a twist.  I love a grunge bun with colour!

Do you have a style secret you can share with us?
After washing and conditioning your hair, tie your hair at the nape of your neck with some hairgrips.  Apply Shu Uemura deep-sea repair foundation and leave to dry.  Voila! Beautiful, natural beach hair.

What has been your best hairstyling moment?
Back in the day when I was assisting, I met Martin Margiela and also Martine Sitbon my two favourite designers, while working on the Hermes show. That was a pretty exciting day!

What’s next for you?
I have been art directing on a lot of projects which is allowing me to have more control over the work I produce.  You can be even more creative and it is great working with a strong team, I still love to share ideas with other people!

sohomanagement.co.uk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pink bandeau top, Prada
Blue skirt, Prada
Sunglasses, Celine

Top Image:
Blue school uniform shirt, John Lewis
Silver collar, Miu Miu
Blue skirt, Prada

Photographer – Tara Darby
Photographer’s assistant – Dave Hampton
Stylist – Michele Rafferty
Stylist’s assistant – Clementine Prendergast
Make-up – Annabel Callum
Hair – Selena Middleton

China Lady

Heavily manipulated images with an exaggerated sense of reality form the signature style of Chinese fashion photographer Chen Man.

Since shooting her first cover for Chinese avant-garde style magazine, Vision, Man’s work has gained increasing recognition. Having worked with brands such as Adidas and Nike, she’s most recently collaborated with MAC cosmetics. The Chen Man range, subtitled Love & Water, is described as a ‘bold, sensual and lyrical colour collection’, based around her fascination for love and water, represented by pink and blue.

The ascendancy of Man’s star coincides with China’s own  as a burgeoning economic powerhouse. In forging her own path, Man’s bold, innovative style has been credited with inspiring a visual revolution in China.

For her first UK solo exhibition, Mans photography collates modern Chinese city landscapes with ancient architecture, which provide a backdrop to explore the assorted themes of science fiction, consumerism and popular culture.

Despite the complex and myriad layers of post-production employed to control and manipulate the finished product, the natural beauty and poise of her models forces its way through her art. Otherworldly and eccentric Man’s imagery reflects an obsession with perfection and the impossibility of many beauty aesthetics.

The Chen Man exhibition is showing at the Chinese Arts Centre, Manchester until 7th April

chinese-arts-centre.org

Words by Dawn Daniels

PFW Round Up

To many, Paris is the city of love. More importantly however, it is the city of fashion, which could not have been made more clear than through the variety of awe-inspiring runway shows this A/W 12 season. Twin recounts our favourite collections of Paris Fashion Week….

Alexander McQueen

Oversized visor/sunglass hybrids, shaggy fur trimming and heeless, leather strap boots were just the tip of the iceberg when it came to Sarah Burton’s extraordinary A/W 12 collection for Alexander McQueen. As always, there was no shortage of craftsmanship and detailing. Victorian ruffle collars, rolled pleating, laser leather cutouts and delicate floral appliques and embroidery heightened the luxury of the alpine white, pale pink, rose lavender and fuchsia pieces.

Despite the collection’s at times very voluminous silhouettes, silver waist-cinching belts and shorter hemlines still let the sensual side of the McQueen woman shine through. With gravity-defying silk chiffon standing away from the body like a sea anemone, intricately reworked velvet bearing floral shapes and marabou feather hems, Burton even managed to add a touch of earth to an otherwordly collection.

Celine

Phoebe Philo’s vision of the Celine woman has always been a modern and streamlined one. This season, she added a dash of athleticism and bold colours to that equation.

The designer’s signature colour palette of black and white was amped up through the addition of azure blue, fuchsia, rose pink, aubergine and vermilion red, while oversized wool coats, double piping on front-pleated trousers and striped crew neck jumpers gave the collection a more casual feel. But in fabrics such as supple leather and fur, each piece still had that unmistakable touch of Celine luxury.

Chalayan

In this collection, intricate prints resembled the hasty stroke of a painter’s brush, and paint Hussein Chalayan did with colours including crimson, teal, camel, tenné, emerald, fluorescent orange and green.

The silhouettes were streamlined in the form of oversized single-button coats, tunics and shift dresses, but always good for the unexpected detail, he added large cutouts, as well as rectangular bands in contrast collars to cinch in pieces at the waist and bust, not to mention reflective silver lamé panelling, trousers and brogues. Whether artistic or futuristic, every piece bore the Chalayan signature.

Chanel

Considering the high value that Karl Lagerfeld has in the fashion industry, it was only a matter of time before he produced a collection inspired by precious stones. If the set design of oversize crystals jutting out of the ground wasn’t hint enough, this season’s Chanel colour palette was all about the emerald greens, amethyst purples, ruby reds, golds, antique silvers and sapphire blues.

Whether interwoven with the house’s signature tweed or sewn into the sleeves, pockets and breast of a flared wool coat dress, Lagerfeld’s chromatic approach this season only heightened the luxury of the gemstone, feather and lace-crafted pieces. Their point of inspiration may date back to the beginning of time, but thanks to a mixture of architecturally sculpted and relaxed silhouettes, every look was pure modernity. Topped off with crystal eyebrows and Perspex-heeled pumps, this collection proved (once again) why Coco and Karl are the perfect match.

Stella McCartney

If anyone still associated the name Stella McCartney with The Beatles before, then this collection broke that bond once and for all. Working with colours of black, cyan, hot pink, charcoal, dark brown and white, it was a milestone in her journey from famous daughter to design star in her own right.

McCartney’s time at Saville Row made its mark in the tailoring of padded hips, oversized, rectangular cuts, and rounded shoulders, giving every piece a strong sense of structuring while offsetting the more feminine elements such as foliage embroidery and curve-tracing colour blocking. Her tribute to English style didn’t stop there: cozy waffle knit cardigans and dresses worn over Oxford button-downs, as well as A-line skirts in fabrics such as tweed, wool, mohair, crepe paid tribute to McCartney’s heritage. Balance being one of her strong suits, hip-slung, wide-legged trousers, streamlined clutchs, and contrast-coloured pumps and ankle boots gave everything an urban twist.

LFW Round-up

London Fashion Week A/W12 stood apart from other seasons in asserting the city’s place firmly within the fashion week calendar. Not just because of the brilliant creativity that the fashion world has come to expect, but because of the strength of the homegrown brands on show.

From big names such as Burberry and McQ to the young guns like Mary Katrantzou, Simone Rocha and Christopher Kane, whose collections just keep getting better, London proved that it can be a commercial contender, without losing it’s edge.

STELLA MCCARTNEY

Showing a glimpse into her evening collection pre Paris Fashion Week, Stella did it in a way that obliterated the catwalk show and turned it into immersive theatre. The unwitting stage was a fashion fabulous dinner. Models, Amber Valletta, Shalom Harlow and Yasmin Le Bon confounded guests by erupting halfway through into a choreographed dance sequence of jaw-dropping craziness. The clothes, a tight collection of optical dresses, painterly cocktail numbers and tailoring, were shown as they should be, in the moment, working the party.

MARY KATRANTZOU

Mary Katrantzou’s collection was sheer artistry, from the trompe l’oeil prints of verdant maze gardens and clackety typewriters that drew the eye deep into the design, to the origami ruffles that fluttered off of collars and hems.

This was print done with structure and tailoring the Katrantzou way. As well as being brilliantly inventive, they were also eminently wearable, and are assured of a wide following.

CHRISTOPHER KANE

Christopher Kane’s show only further confirmed his eye-opening ability to draw on references and ideas like no other and make them fashion must haves.

There was gangster goth pinstripe skirt-suits and dresses alongside elegant chiffon dresses with applique black velvet flowers. The palette was darkly purple, black and royal blue and leopard print was done in the Kane way, injecting the print with a freshness that has tarnished over recent seasons. This was tough, feminine and most obviously from London.

MEADHAM KIRCHOFF

At Meadham Kirchoff the look was acidic with tribal crayon makeup and Seventies funky heels in silver, pink and gold glitter.

With the catwalk turned into a disco this was a larger than life collection of lamé, sequins, tinsel, fuzzy snakes and most importantly fun. But hidden amongst it all were the kind of separates sure to add zing to any wardrobe.

ELLIOT ATKINSON

At a salon presentation hosted by Colin McDowell at the Corinthia Hotel, Elliot Atkinson showed a collection inspired by medieval aristoracy wrought in modern urbanity. A palette of black, white and mustard was tailored to create a silhouette that was slim, fierce and undeniably elegant.

The Haute Roundup

Yesterday marked the end of the Spring/Summer 2012 couture shows. The proverbial creme de la creme of fashion, only allowed to show during this three-day short Fashion Week through a Chambre Syndicale De La Haute Couture membership – haute couture doesn’t mean high dressmaking in French for nothing – showed a degree of craftsmanship and attention to detail all across the fashion spectrum.

Twin recounts our haute couture highlights from Paris…

Alexis Mabille

Proving that haute couture doesn’t have to keep to a demure palette, Mabille punched up the colour factor with his neon designs. Inspired by photographs of Lisa Fonssagrives and Christy Turlington, the creations in fabrics ranging from metallic lame to guipure lace proved that even when it comes to couture, girls just want to have fun.

Bouchra Jarrar

Working with crepe de soie, fur collars and wide-legged tailored trousers, Jarrar’s collection was a take on casual luxe. A bit of tomboy and a dash of urban sophisticate resulted in a whole lot of effortless cool.

Chanel

No couture week is complete without Karl Lagerfeld’s latest mind musings. Taking the double Cs to a more ethereal place this time around (airplane runway, anyone?) resulted in a collection of beautifully hand-embellished pieces in icy blues, ivories and midnight blacks.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab is the go-to designer for anything feminine and delicate, and this season was no exception. Lace and crystal embroidery on nude, pastel pink and pale lemon high-waisted dresses and A-line skirts made being a woman that bit more enticing.

Giambattista Valli

It may only be Valli’s second showing on the haute couture circuit, but the Italian designer proves that he can hold his own among fashion’s heavyweights. With a plethora of expertly tailored feather, lace and embroidered pieces, he’s as couture as they come.

Jean Paul Gaultier

In a beehive and winged eyeliner tribute to Amy Winehouse, Gaultier sent out a collection that was every bit as eccentric and nonchalant as the late singer herself. Encompassing pieces such as back to black shirt-tail hem skirts, leather varsity jackets and silk kimono coats tied at the waist, Winehouse probably wouldn’t have wanted her couture any other way.

Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal

Leave it to the house of Margiela to put an unconventional spin on couture. Rope, braided bracelets and hundreds of pearlescent buttons were turned into  knee-length trench coats, colourful micro dresses, and slouchy blazer and pegged trouser combos, proving that recycled fashion doesn’t have to be drab.

Valentino

It has only taken a few seasons for Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri to fully establish their trademark of girlish and graceful designs at Valentino. Marking a sweet end to haute couture fashion week, this collection of chiffon, lace and tulle in fine floral prints had a glamourised Charlotte Brontë/Jane Austen novel feel to it. Piccioli and Chiuri clearly have a talent for capturing fashion daydreams.

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