When the SS14 collections walked their way down the catwalks in September, there was one key item that was much more present than in seasons past – the summer coat. Many styles were noted, but those that came out on top were lightweight, long and slightly oversized. When usually a mac is all you need, it’s time to invest in some more outerwear that should take you all the way until autumn. Here, Twin picks out our favourite coats of the season, and with the sales having already begun, you might find a bargin or two.

Marni Duster Coat in Grey, $ 1,280.00 $ 768.00, marni.com & Silver Long Weave Coat by Boutique, £190, topshop.com

Charlie May Sleeveless Duster Coat, £350, farfetch.com & Lela Coat, £50, monki.com 

Tags: Coat, Duster Coat, SS14, Summer

One of our standout shows during February’s AW14 season was Ashish. It was at the colourful and glittery display, at the Topshop showspace at Tate Modern that we learned that a tenth collaboration was on its way. Well, today is that day. Ashish x Topshop SS14 has landed and it’s as tongue-in-cheek as we expected. Titled Beach Please!, the capsule collection features oversized t-shirts, fluoro swimsuits and bikinis, wrap dresses and skirts as well as LED footwear. “I love this collection, it’s perfect for the beach and for pool parties, and they have the best ones at the Paradise Hotel,” stated Ashish Gupta. “I hope it’s going to be as much fun to wear as it has been to design!” Here Twin picks our top four pieces from this fun-loving collaboration.

White LED Leather Sliders, £250, topshop.com & Fluro Orange Backless Swimsuit, £45, topshop.com

Censored Mesh Dress, £65, topshop.com & LED Light Up PVC Backpack, £250, topshop.com

Tags: ashish, SS14, Topshop

When it comes to jewellery for SS14, one statement piece comes out on top. The choker is yet another 90’s trend that’s being re-introduced into our lives. This time however, it’s less Spice Girls, more Celine, taking inspiration from the chic and minimal to give us a oversized piece that works with nearly every outfit. Here, Twin picks the top four chokers on the market.

Pearl Choker, £15.99, zara.com & Giuseppe Zanotti Stud And Buckles Choker, £360, luisaviaroma.com

Annelise Michelson Gunmetal Carnivore Choker, £830, avenue32.com & Paula Mendoza Hera Gold-Plated Choker, £700, net-a-porter.com

Tags: Annelise Michelson, Choker, Giuseppe Zanotti, jewellery, Paula Mendoza, SS14, Zara

Danielle Foster, the London-based accessory designer, focuses on texture for SS14. Embossed croc detailing features heavily in this season’s collection, decorating totes, clutches and satchels, all in the signature shapes we’ve come to love from the brand. Backpacks are a new addition to her line for SS14, found in black and white luxury leathers, while other styles are highlighted with colour blocking of cool metallic, crisp white, black and burnt orange.

daniellefoster.co.uk

Images from Danielle Foster SS14

Photographer: Agnes Lloyd-Platt
Hair & Makeup: Kim Plotel
Model: Ella @ Elite
Clothes: Charlie May

Tags: Danielle Foster, SS14

To showcase the key pieces from their Spring/Summer 2014 collection, Linda Farrow called upon Belgium photographer Frederick Vercruysse to create this still life campaign. This season inspiration is taken from the 70’s, utilising hyper-luxe materials including snakeskin and gold to give us the adventurous styles Linda Farrow has become renowned for.

Available in the new Mount St store as well as lindafarrow.com.

Tags: Linda Farrow, SS14, Still Life

Marni Lab has created a short film to celebrate the iconic Marni Trunk bag for SS14. Styled like an old fashioned movie trailer and set to the gramophone sounds of Emanuele Scataglini, the black and white short film sees the geometric shapes of the handbag paralleled through the architecture of Aldo Rossi and Carlo Aymonino, as it was shot at Monte Amiata Housing in Milan. Playful in its execution, the doubled screens further emphasize the power of perspective. Watch the film below…

marni.com

Tags: Marni, SS14, Trunk

Francis Leon is a high-end contemporary streetwear brand inspired by sportswear, that combines sharp construction, luxury quality and effortless styling. With a nonchalant, cool and casual asethetic, they are one to keep on your radar, especially when they cite Rooney Mara, Freja Beha Erichsen, Mick Jagger and Charlotte Gainsbourg as their muses. This season is all about the misfit in the middle, so Twin spoke to designer Jo Turner to find out more.

Tell us about the Republic of Francis Leon…
The republic is how we refer to everyone related to the brand in some way… our community; from our customers, to our retailers, our photographer, agents and all the people behind the scenes. It’s about building relationships and creating something bigger than just the clothes or the brand.

What signature style/pieces can we expect from the brand?
Our signature pieces are the jackets. We mix high-quality Italian leathers with different fabrications to enhance fit and comfort. They are designed to be lo-fi luxury; casually effortless… a jacket you can throw on over anything.

What is the Francis Leon girl doing this spring? Where does she hang out?
She’s working, socialising, going to events or just hanging out in the park reading a book.

Launched in Australia, now based in London, how does this affect the collections? Does it?
I’m not sure. Our product range has changed a fair bit since moving the businesses over to Europe. We focus mostly on outerwear now. The two markets are very different, it’s quite hard for a brand to service both at the same time. Our aesthetic always leaned a bit more towards Europe than Australia, so it was quite a natural and straightforward move for us.

What are your favourite pieces from the SS14 collection?
The Avenger. It’s just a great classic biker, but at the same time a little bit different. It’s made in the softest lamb leather you can buy, with under-sleeve panels in perforated breathable neoprene for comfort and movement.

With a tomboy-ish nature and relaxed sensibility, what inspires these garments?
Each season there’s a Francis Leon heroine/character that continues through an adventure – this season, Collection 12, she finds herself a stow away on a rundown circus train. This is shown through hints of worn metallic leathers and lightning bolt details. But we always want to maintain a comfort and relaxed nature – an effortlessness; laidback sophistication.

Any collaborations or capsule collections on the horizon?
Yes, we’ve done a collaboration with Barbour International launching this winter. But definitely on the look out for more… so watch this space!

francisleonstudios.com

Photographer: Jo Duck
Make-up: Elias Hove
Model: EWA @ Models1

Tags: Francis Leon, SS14

Sping is in full swing (sort of), and it’s time your wardrobe kept up. One effortless way to transition, is to do so with your feet. This season is about relaxing poolside, dipping those toes in water but until that becomes reality, just swan about town in some slides. Here Twin chooses four to help you on your way.

Limited Elena Flat Poolside Mule, £195, whistles.co.uk & Givenchy Floral Print Slides, £546, matchesfashion.com 

Bio Sandals, £39.99, zara.com & Marni Slides, £390, shoescribe.com

Tags: Givenchy, Marni, Slides, SS14, Whistles, Zara

Converse Jack Purcell has announced their first collaboration with Hancock, the British luxury brand and with trainers being big news this spring, these caught our attention. The design collaboration has created a collection of the Jack Purcell mid-top sneaker that combines rubber bonded, waterproof materials in a range of spring hues such as indigo, mastic grey and a summery yellow all perfect for the upcoming sunny season and festivals alike. The trainers all feature a soft printed lining and the Hancock Vulcanised Articles logo on the heel tab.

Available at endclothing.co.uk

Tags: Converse, SS14

Metallics are big news this spring. Expect to see sparkly fabrics and tinsel-coloured embellishements a plenty. Although coloured metallics may still be shining bright, the shade that has everyone reaching for their wallets is silver. Style in a minimal, chic fashion and you’re good to go, looking effortlessly cool. Here Twin picks the top four pieces that shone above the rest.

Moxham Otto Cuff in silver, £62, moxhamstore.com & Silver Leather Skirt by Unique, £195, topshop.com

Limited Verity Rucksack in metallic, £295, whistles.co.uk & Stella McCartney Fold Heel Metallic Faux-Leather Mules, £455, matchesfashion.com

Tags: Metallics, SS14, Twin Picks

For Spring/Summer 2014 Kenzo looked to America’s West Coast and in particular California in the 1960’s. To convey these themes, the brand collaborated with director Hala Matar and actors, Anton Yelchin and Lydia Hearst to create a short-film titled, Automobile Waltz, where we see the protagonists riding around in vintage cars, crashing into orchestras and carrying out stunted conversations, all in a set reminiscent with old Hollywood movies.

The connection between the cars and the collection is that they “both share the timelessness and classic feel,” states Matar. For Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, the wave prints recall an age of visiting the beach during the heyday of 60’s surfers.

kenzo.com

Tags: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, Kenzo, SS14

Bella Freud, the queen of punk knitwear launched her eponymous label in the 90s, and has held a cult status among the cool crowd ever since. The pre-spring line, Close To My Heart is no different, featuring girl crush Adwoa Aboah. For this collection Bella draws from her love of film noir, 70s reggae album covers, graffiti and images of her mother as a 1950’s teenager.

The new word jumpers of the season include: Hey, Psychoanalysis and Power, with the range also consisting of the Lion Star Tee, the instant hit Lion Stripe Jumper and the Distressed Dog Tee (a la the Bella Freud logo). These tees and fine wool sweaters come in a palette of Gitane Blue, Dirty Pink, Grasshopper Green, Grey Marl and of course the classic BF Black and White.

‘The reason for making anything, from a garment to a film, is because it excites me and because I like it’ – Bella Freud.

bellafreud.co.uk

Tags: Bella Freud, SS14

It’s time to start buying into Spring/Summer 2014. One key piece, seen on the catwalks of Carven, Dries Van Noten, Christopher Kane and Givenchy, is the pleated knee length skirt. This versatile garmet is set to be a wardrobe staple come spring, worn with everything from luxury tee’s and logo sweats, so why not start wearing them now. This week we pick Twin‘s top pleated skirts, so you can get ahead of the game.

Asymetric Two-Tone Pleated Skirt, £39, zara.com & J.W. Anderson Pleated Crepe Wool Skirt, £495, brownsfashion.com

Proenza Schouler Pleated Skirt, £709, farfetch.com & Givenchy Pleated Silk Jersey Skirt, £575, brownsfashion.com

Tags: Givenchy, JW Anderson, Pleated Skirts, Proenza Schouler, SS14, Zara

Trevor Undi is a British/Canadian video and film director and photographer, who has previously worked with Balenciaga, Acne Studios, Alexander Mcqueen, Burberry and Chanel, to name but a few. This season, his attention focuses on Erdem, shooting backstage at the SS14 show to create this cinematic piece that captures the true beauty of the designs.

trevorundi.com

Tags: Erdem, Fashion Film, SS14, Trevor Undi

Miu Miu turned to Inez and Vinoodh to shoot their Spring/Summer 2014 campaign staring Elle Fanning, Bella Heathcote, Lupita Nyong’o, Elizabeth Olsen. They also asked the photographers and collaborators to create a fashion film for the collection, showcasing a techno interpretation that is both colourful and playful, highlighting the key motifs from the line. Featuring the same four Hollywood talents as the print campaign, the film shows the four actresses in their imaginary bedrooms with music by Porter Robinson.

miumiu.com/en

Tags: Bella Heathcote, Elizabeth Olsen, Elle Fanning, Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, Lupita Nyong’o, Miu Miu, SS14

Charlie May may be well known for her fashion blog Girl a la Mode, but each season she reminds us that she is a talented designer-to-watch also. When creating her SS14 collection, May focused on childhood nostalgia. “Growing up in the North Devon countryside as a tomboy and farmers daughter, whilst alternatively listening to the Spice Girls and getting mixed up in the questionable late 90’s fashion,” inspired the introduction of metallic pink and turquoise to her usually minimal aesthetic. Not only does May experiment with new colour palettes, textures are also a focus this season, working with mills for the first time to produce exclusive materials such as a woven polyester/silk metallic fabric that demonstrates a growing confidence in her designs. We find interesting shapes and silhouettes  such as flared trousers and cropped tops, which are those 90’s inspired pieces, pulling the line together in a delicately elegant way.

Androgyny is always at play when it comes to Charlie May’s collections and this season that meant a collaboration with Hudson shoes. Creating a white slip on brogue, featuring silver zip detailing – the epitome of a perfect summer shoe, according to May herself. “I was really excited to work with Hudson as I love what they do, and am so keen to move into footwear and accessories myself, but don’t quite have the resources to do that yet.”

The collection, including the limited edition brogues, goes on sale at the beginning of February.

charlie-may.co.uk

Tags: Charlie May, Hudson Shoes, SS14

London has cemeneted itself as home to some of the most interesting and talented emerging designers. Danielle Romeril is one of those names. If you didn’t hear about her eponymous label last year, you certainly will in 2014. Twin caught up with the young designer to talk fashion memories, first jobs and future collections.

Was fashion always on the cards for you?
The short answer is no. I started studying Psychology, Politics and History of Art at university. After my first year, I took my exams and decided I needed to try something else – that university experience was just too dull and vacuous, and generally an inspiration void zone. I had always had an interest in fashion and can remember at aged nine having these design competitions with my nemesis in school. Both of us would draw and colour up designs and our friends would judge them – I usually killed it. It was my amazing camo-combos of neon colours and black that did it. When I was 16, in school we had this year that they call Transition Year in Ireland, you are supposed to spend the year doing subjects less focused on academic results and more focused on what you might like to do after school, before you start into the senior cycle and take your final exams. People study subjects not typically on the curriculum, they learn to drive or they help out in the community. We had to do this tome of a project, completely self led on anything you wanted. A scary idea for most 16 year olds. In Transition Year I partied a lot so I decided to teach myself to pattern cut, from a book I bought and I designed and made a coat from scratch. It was a huge undertaking but I loved it. The purpose of the coat was to make me look old enough to get into pubs and clubs while also looking cool – it worked, I got served and an A in my project. I should have applied for a place in an art university straight from school but I didn’t have the courage. I come from an academic family and I didn’t excel in art in school so I chickened out and hence ended up in the wrong university, studying the wrong thing.

Who were your early fashion influences?
I guess as a young teenager I would have been a bit unaware of fashion in terms of the fashion system. My education came from my mother who shopped in a beautiful store in Dublin called Havana. She was wearing Yohji and Jil Sander but in a really unselfconscious way – she bought the pieces because she loved them as garments, she didn’t read the press, she didn’t care what name was on the label, she just knew what was beautiful and special. At that time I dressed as I still do now, arranging my appearance based on my gut instinct. I remember a silver puffa jacket worn with a velvet A-line mini and rubber soled, lace up platform canvas trainers that I loved, until people started shouting spaceman at me in the street! That infamous Levi’s ad and Dublin being a sort of conservative place in the mid 90’s probably didn’t help. I always stuck out a bit, I was a very headstrong teenager, if I wanted to do something, I did it. When I started to study fashion I became a bit obsessed with Rick Owens – that obsession lasted a long time. I loved his raw but beautiful fabrics and tough leathers, the tough girl attitude with the sublime drape and fabric that just swept around a woman’s curves. You can’t see any of that influence in my designs now. I have lost my desire to design tough, heavy clothes for scowly but beautiful girls. I don’t try as hard now and I think I am happier, which I think you can see in my work. Oh and how could I not mention Cristobal Balenciaga and Miuccia Prada – as a woman and as a designer.

Your debut collection launched for SS13. How have you grown as a brand and as a designer since then?
I guess when I launched I still had the concerns that permeated the Alberta Ferretti studio ringing in my ears so I was thinking about customer, age, wearability, different fabric groups – all this stuff which sort of mashed in with my own thoughts and feelings and lead to a collection that wasn’t as cohesive as it could have been. By the following season I was just doing what I wanted to do, which always works much better. The label is now stocked in 10 countries across the globe which I am proud of. I think I have learnt the same lessons that you keep re-learning throughout your education and working life as a designer: trust your gut, do what you like and the rest will follow. I collaborate with an old friend and stylist, the very talented Kieran Kilgallon, and besides bringing another angle to the collection with how we shoot it and style it, he is like my cheerleader who helps me keep focused on my gut feelings and is always telling me to never do anything I don’t want to do.

You bring a certain sophistication to street inspired designs. How would you describe your aesthetic?
This is the bit I always fail miserably at, describing my aesthetic; it seems so concrete, like I have to nail my colours to the wall and never change my mind. I also wonder if people can’t just look at what I do and judge it based on what they see, what they touch and feel. Words are so often a clumsy tool to describe visual three dimensional objects. If only I was famous, it would seem mysterious and interesting that I don’t describe my work rather that I just have a poor way with words when it comes to my own designs.

I will try though, here goes. Firstly, I like to change my mind. That is what I love about the fashion system, that one season I can be all about Voodoo and tribal influences and the next season it is bubble wrap and sticky tape. How cool is it that fashion actively encourages us to scrap everything every six months – what liberation! Secondly, the label is vibrant and youthful, the clothes are fun but with plenty of cool attitude. A Danielle Romeril girl is going to stand out. As a designer my real passion is decorative possibilities, I love fabric and surface detail, I like clothes that feel simple, almost utilitarian. I guess that is the street influence you can see. You should be able to just throw on a Danielle Romeril item with a pair of flats and go but these same garments are extraordinary up close. They are clothes that should be seen in real life, garments you want to wear.

You previously worked as a designer for Alberta Ferretti and Amanda Wakeley. Did the experience drive you to set up your own design brand?
Amanda Wakeley was my first job after my BA course, and having nearly killed myself on my graduate collection it was a nice break, basically an easy enough job that allowed me to move to London and make some money but it wasn’t what I got into fashion to do. There was an absence of passion and excitement in the studio so I left it to study for my Masters at the Royal College of Art, which was an enormously positive two years – the years that cemented in me that I would never do anything other than design again. From there I was selected to work in Alberta Ferretti’s studio in Italy and I more or less decided on the spot to go. I needed money and a job; an MA is an expensive business. It was a so-so experience – I hated living in this teeny town in the middle of nowhere in Italy and the design team was miserable but when I left I was at a loss as what to do next. I just couldn’t think of where or for who I wanted to work for. A lot of design studios like you to work in one particular way and I like to combine drawing, draping and fabric manipulation. It took me six months of indecision before I took the plunge to start up the label. Maybe I lacked courage but once I get going on something, I don’t stop. My Dad’s mantra – corny as it may be – is when the going gets tough, the tough gets going. On crappy days I say it over and over to myself.

Your collections feature a lot of lace and leather. Would you describe them as a Danielle Romeril staple or can we expect very different materials in the future?
There is no leather and almost no lace in AW14 so I guess you’ll be seeing something new. I am very excited about one fabric in particular; it has beauty, geekyness and crazy nostalgia all tied up in it.

What is your design process like? What does a typical day look like to you?
It completely varies. Firstly, you are the boss of a company before you are a designer. I know that probably sounds strange to people who think we just sketch all day but there are a lot of emails, press, stores, factories, PRs, fabric suppliers, accountants – all the sexy stuff to deal with first thing in the morning – the buck stops with me for all the serious stuff so you have to juggle a lot of balls. I start at 9, go through the day with my amazing team, I answer questions, we bounce ideas around. I aim to have a really creative work place that keeps people feeling excited and passionate, hopefully I succeed some of the time. Then I get down to design and collection development and as it comes together you see what is looking really beautiful and add similar styles or utilise a successful technique or fabric more often. So I will sketch or get on the machine and work out a new technique or collage fabrics and colours together for new styles. Sometimes in the afternoons we will do fittings, sometimes I will have a meeting. I really love to collaborate with other creative people. For SS14 I collaborated with milliner Laura Kinsella and currently I’m working on a bag collaboration. Fingers crossed for more exciting collaborations in the future.

What is it like to be a young designer in London?
It’s amazing as long as you don’t think about the money and I don’t mean the fistful of fifties being shoved through your letter box every morning.

What did it feel like to receive exhibition sponsorship from NEWGEN?
It was a pretty big moment, I guess a career highlight for me. I was just tapping away, doing my thing, building the brand and the Danielle Romeril vision. I applied and then I got to the second stage, which a lot of people get to and then I got to the third stage and then I was in front of an 18 person panel, feeling completely out of my depth and then you wait and see. A week later they send you an email and I suppose it’s like the smallest thing and the biggest thing all in one. It changes nothing – you are still working on your new collection and sorting out production but it changes everything too. This thing, that has been a dream and a massive goal, that you have been busily pretending to yourself is no big deal, just lands on you one day. It’s like fuck yeah, but then you can’t tell anyone for two weeks except your family who don’t really get it – there is nothing worse than trying to explain to someone who doesn’t get it why it is such a big deal. So myself and Kieran Kilgallon (the stylist I work with) and my team basically just patted ourselves on the back, felt smug and went to the pub to celebrate.

What can we expect from Danielle Romeril the brand in 2014?
Hopefully, to be surprised and maybe to hear the name a few more times.

www.danielleromeril.com

Images from Danielle Romeril SS14

Photographer: Joshua Gordon
Stylist: Kieran Kilgallon
Make-up & Hair: Sarah Lanagan
Hats: A collaboration with milliner Laura Kinsella

Tags: Danielle Romeril, NEWGEN, SS14