A larger than life character, with her striking ageless style and ever present alsation pug Otis, Claire’s passing last week after a prolonged illness is a loss to all who prize independence and personality and to those resisting the creeping tide of a homogeneous culture.

There was room for everyone in her shop, all were free to browse or buy, and on her shelves young talent jostled happily alongside huge names. Twin can only thank and pay our respects to a woman who strove to deliver the best and allow the young to flourish.

Words by Boudicca Fox-Leonard

Taught by the art director of Harper’s Bazaar, Alexey Brodovitch, and with Richard Avedon among those in her class, Arnold took her camera to the catwalks of Harlem, where an alternative to mainstream fashion had found its feet.

Over the subsequent decades her eye for an image and her awareness of her own minority status, never failed to help her cast light upon those whom the camera might have otherwise ignored. She recorded the civil rights movement, American agrarians, South African shantytowns and Mongolian horse trainers. Always interested in women’s issues, in 1971 she made a film, Women Behind the Veil, going inside Arabian hammams and harems.

In her celebrity photographs, her understanding and compassion resulted in original interpretations of the glitterati. A favourite with actresses like Marlene Dietrich and Joan Crawford, most famously her naturalistic aesthetic, took Hollywood star Marilyn Monroe out of the glare of the studio portrait and gave the world an enduring intimate insight into her beauty.

Her passing away last week at the grand age of 99 is a reminder of her legacy, not only of the startling images she took, but of a woman with a rare light, who lived brightly and bravely.

Words by Boudicca Fox-Leonard

Francesca Gavin – Art Editor

For me this has been the year of Mark Leckey – both his solo show at the Serpentine and an hypnotic installation at the Printemps de Septembre in Toulouse. I’ve been obsessed by his work for years and think he has a massive influence on a whole younger generation on artists with his fascination with pop culture, technology, music and screens. I like many others wait with excitement at whatever comes next.

In 2012, I’m really looking forward to surviving the apocalypse and visiting the Marrakech Biennial in February. Some really great artists are in the line up including Aleksandra Domanovic, Jon Nash and Matthew Stone and I think its going to be a fascinating trip.

Elsewhere 176 new monthly programme of emerging artists, Yayoi Kusama and Edvard Munch at the Tate Modern, Rashid Johnson’s big shows at Hauser and Wirth NYC and London throughout the year, Urs Fisher at Palazzo Grassi in Venice, and the Berlin Biennial (which can only be an improvement on two years ago which was uber-dull).

Aimee Farrell – Features Director

In terms of writers in 2011 it has to be Caitlin Moran at the top of the list. How To Be A Woman managed to make feminism funny and accessible.

In 2012 I’m excited about Rachel Cusk. Her Granta essay about life after marriage, which throws a feminist light on the institution of divorce has been developed into a major new work of non-fiction, called Aftermath: On Marriage and Separation. Published by Faber the book will be a series of meditations on women’s mid-lives and family life after divorce.

Boudicca Fox-Leonard – Online Editor

Last year marked another 12 months of female dominance in the music industry, whether it was Beyonce at Glastonbury or Adele taking America. There were strong albums from the likes of Feist and a great debut from songstress Anika. For me though, the highlight was PJ Harvey storming the Mercury Music Prize for a second time. Let England Shake easily summed up the zeitgeist for 2011 and proved that there are still important albums being made.

For 2012, there’s a feeling it’s going to be the year of the viral superstar. We’ve already had Azealia Banks’ 212 and Lana Del Rey’s Video Games, now we need to hear the albums.

Celestine Cooney – Fashion Director

My favourite show of 2011 was Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 12. I fell in love with the whole collection, it felt so modern and was executed so perfectly with the combination of traditional lace with sheer tulle and rubber. The use of colour in Spring/Summer 12 was also really inspiring with bright pink and a lucid green popping in a collection of black and white.

I think Simone Rocha is a star in the making. I find what she is doing and the collections she is producing, incredibly exciting.

Naomi Miller – Fashion Editor

I loved the Celine collection for Spring/Summer 2012. It was very chic, the couple of knitwear pieces they did were beautiful and so innovative.

Obviously it’s been an incredible 2011 for Sarah Burton, but I’m also stoked for Olivier Theyskens for putting Theyskens’ Theory on the map this year. I also loved the Thomas Tait show – and loved the styling with the sneakers!

So, 2011 was a mad mix. From the Kardashian’s, who spread throughout the globe like a new herpes type of disease, becoming the most googled thing in the UK, to the riots, which were basically extreme shopping.

There was structured reality courtesy of TOWIE,  Made in Chelsea and Desperate Scousewives. WARNING – this can bring on early dementia and is to be avoided unless hungover.

There was also 4D TV – total bollocks – and the Beckhams posing the big question, has Victoria finally worn us down into believing she is credible? Not to forget the Higgs Boson. Does anyone actually know what this is?

To sum up the best and worst of 2011, here are a few of my favorite Portmanteaus:

Après-olution: relaxation that follows the ritualistic but often quixotic making of New Years’ resolutions.

Occupy-movement: New mode of urban habitation which has replaced loft living. All the best people are now doing it, though most only stay a night or two.

Bunga bunga: Phrase associated, for largely unknown reasons, with Silvio Berlusconi’s sex parties. I think I get it though.

Lottoroticism: The arousal and satisfaction of excitement within or by oneself as one imagines what they would do if they hit the lottery. I think I feel this every year.

Planking: See here. The act of balancing yourself in a horizontal position on top of unlikely objects. There are strict rules for proper planking: the planker must be lying face down, completely still, with his or her hands by her sides – I can’t help but think of the economy right now.

And so, to 2012. The events I’m looking forward to are:

Becoming a Mumpreneur: A woman who combines running a business with looking after her children. Actually, this is a lie. I don’t have children or plan to.

Flying Cuddle Class: When two airline passengers buy an additional seat so that they can recline together.

And above all…

Mamil(s): A middle-aged man in Lycra

AND

Mullet dress(es): A woman’s skirt cut short at the front but long at the back.

Here’s to the the New Year!

Becky Smith

But if anything, it’s a time to reflect on who Norma Jeane Mortenson really was.  Her predominant public image was that of the good-time girl with the come-hither voice. But in reality, behind the red lips, hot-rolled curls and Hollywood glamour story, there was a sensitive and often at times conflicted soul; one plagued by debilitating stage fright, depression and substance abuse issues.

Born June 1, 1926 in Los Angeles, she was raised in foster homes for a large part of her childhood. Monroe landed her first, although uncredited, movie role in 1947‘s The Shocking Miss Pilgrim. Far from a ‘dumb blonde’, she studied literature and art appreciation at the University of California alongside the production of her early films, until managing her big breakthrough in the drama The Asphalt Jungle three years later.

Making the leap from an airplane factory worker to the icon of a generation, the star later revealed that she didn’t identify herself with the star/ sex symbol label she was given. “I believe you’re always as good as your potential. Fame will go by, and, so long, I’ve had you fame. So at least it’s something I experienced, but that’s not where I live,” Monroe said in her last ever interview with LIFE magazine in 1962.

What Marilyn Monroe gave the world wasn’t a sex symbol that sang ‘Happy Birthday Mr. President…’ in a whispery voice. She was the woman that came from nothing, saw and conquered. Love for a legend like that never dies.

My Week With Marilyn opens November 23. Marilyn Monroe: Metamorphosis by David Wills, published by HarperCollins, is out December 5.

Words by Carla Seipp

Since 2009 18-year-old Madeline Sensibile’s Tumblr blog Pretty Visitors has been her place for expressing her passion for music, fashion, art and photography; be it Nineties nostalgia via a black and white CK One ad campaign or exalting her favourite indie bands, like Dead Man’s Bones and Arctic Monkeys.

Twin spoke to Sensibile about the pull of a Tumblr and the power of pictures…

Why a Tumblr blog?

Tumblr is a really good way for people to get inspired, and it’s all instant. I think in this day and age, kids who live in the suburbs want to feel a connection to something greater, whether it be city life in general, or in the case of the blogs I follow, fashion week and the fashion industry in general.

What makes photographs such a strong source of inspiration?

When a photographer makes a photograph, they have total control over what is going on, and with that control they can evoke an idea or feeling just through the image. Like Nan Goldin for example, her work is very emotional as well as real, because she takes snapshots of her friends in extremely happy or sad states, and it really evokes the human condition.

What is your favourite image of all time?

Kinga Rajzak in a Fall 2009 Comme Des Garçons coat with turquoise hair with flowers in her mouth, shot by Viviane Sassen.

There is quite a mix of fashion, music and film content on your blog. Do they all inspire you in different ways, or are they closely intertwined?

Aside from fashion, I’m extremely into music. I often post photos of my favourite bands like MGMT, Arctic Monkeys, and the Horrors because eventually I would really like to work with both fashion and music. I find music very inspiring to what I wear.

I also post a lot about film because as I’ve grown older, I realise the aesthetics of films and the visual aspect of them really. All three of these arts inspire me when it comes to personal style and give off a certain vibe so to speak.

You have previously collaborated with Cutler & Gross, what was it like working with the label?

My small collaboration with Cutler & Gross came from an email I received from their creative director Monica Chong in June 2010, and it turned into two shoots that I produced and posted on my blog. It was really cool getting to style and photograph my own shoots.

Last but not least, what are your favourite Tumblr blogs?

Here goes…

antevorta.tumblr.com

lavandula.tumblr.com

girlsandguns.tumblr.com

tammerijn.tumblr.com

lasherx.tumblr.com

humante.tumblr.com

cultcuts.tumblr.com

laceration.tumblr.com

Words by Carla Seipp

Despite having to relocate to St. Paul’s Cathedral, the change of scenery didn’t dampen the spirit of revolution and solidarity amidst the crowd one bit.

We headed out with photographer Jo Metson Scott to ask protestors what’s really on their mind…

‘We’re here to show support for the movement and solidarity against the bankers. We’re making history and saying to the government that we’re not going to take it anymore. Every person counts,” Wendy, 41, James, 40

‘Our financial system is corrupt, dysfunctional and resulting in phenomenal levels of inequality. By the nature of things it’s gotten worse and worse, people are suffering more and more. Right now there’s a global movement; people in Europe, the Middle East and America are all standing up. When millions of people on an international level, across different cultures, governments and financial systems are saying the same thing, it’s really something worth paying attention to’ Jessica, 26.

‘There is an injustice in the social system that we are bailing out banks and not taking care of our own people. People are waking up and saying we need to take responsibility and we need to make a change. I think that is very inspiring and worth backing,’ Lynne, 51.

‘It’s ridiculous that we pay our £850 billion for bankers yet we are losing thousands of jobs. The top 15% of the population own 85% of all assets in Britain. I think it’s time that people have the power to take things back,’ Liam, 23.

‘I’ve had enough of inequality,’ Delila, 34.

‘We live in a society that continues to measure success by the GDP, not happiness, which is creating a culture of greed, fear and anger. It’s time to open our eyes to see that supporting wealth is not making us happy,’ Stuart, 28.

‘I’m here to show that here is a demand for a real institutional and fundamental change, not small patchwork Band-Aids to plug the holes of a sinking ship,’ Mike, 26.

‘This is the kind of stuff we live for, it’s brilliant,’ Kyle & Nikki 21.

‘The way the financial system is going is destroying our planet. We’re here to send a really powerful message to our government. I will be here, even if it’s got to be an all-nighter,’ Anonymous, 25.

‘It’s vitally important that everyone stands up and says that they’re not happy with the way the country is going,’ Jenny, 21.

‘I don’t feel like a have a voice in the world right now at all. We’re the 99% against 1% percent and we’re not covered at all, it seems as though no one cares about us. It’s up to us to change what’s going on, not only in the world but the earth that we are walking on right now,’ Sabina, 18.

‘The world’s f*cked up. Everyone talks about it and it’s gotten to the point where it’s effecting everyone, so action has to be taken. This is the first step,’ Katie & Peter, 22.

occupylondon.org.uk

jometsonscott.co.uk

Interviews by Carla Seipp.

Photography by  Jo Metson Scott.

Fashion engineer/designer Nancy Tilbury sat down with fashion writer/ stylist NJ Stevenson for a discussion on early beginnings, design collaborations ranging from Philips to Haus Of Gaga, and the future of fashion technology.

The RCA graduate, who created the LED-lit and musically synchronised tour costumes of the Black Eyed Peas, cited Sixties London as her biggest inspiration and talked about “the idea that technology could be couture”.

She explained her design philosophy of “animating our exteriors and transforming the way we use clothes” through projects including digital draping that incorporates light projectors and electrodermal technology. Her work gives new meaning to the saying “wearing your heart on your sleeve” by adjusting a garment’s colour to the wearer’s psychological state.

Tilbury’s creations are both progressive and of inspirational beauty, forming a brilliant start to the upcoming discussion series set throughout this month. RSVP now for an engaging and thought-provoking time.

Oct. 13: Susie Bubble In Conversation With Julie Verhoeven

Oct. 18: Mark Eley

Oct. 19: Darkroom

Oct. 21: Gary Card

Oct. 22: Today Is Boring Tv

Oct. 26: Kathryn Ferguson

David David, 37 Monmouth Street, Seven Dials, WC2. RSVP with event title and date as the subject rsvp@daviddavid.co.uk

Words by Carla Seipp

This September marks twenty years since the release of Nirvana’s seminal album Nevermind. To celebrate The Loading Bay Gallery are hosting and exhibition of the bands work. A hoody worn by Kurt Cobain, tour posters and other memorabilia, it’s all about Teen Spirit and a mark of the ongoing influence Nirvana has with their fans old and new.

Bloom: The Nirvana Nevermind Exhibition is at The Loading Bay Gallery, Brick Lane until 22 September 2011.

Words by Boudicca Fox-Leonard.