Foam: “I Can Make You Feel Good” by Tyler Mitchell

Cover Image: Boys of Walthamstow, 2018, Tyler Mitchell

This Spring Foam Museum has opened photographer and filmmaker Tyler Mitchell’s first solo exhibition entitled I Can Make You Feel Good.

Since his historical debut last year with American Vogue’s September issue, featuring Beyoncé as cover, the photographer has been exploring the visuals of the black utopia ever since. This exhibition showcases a compilation of images that feature black youth in safe spaces. With the use of his signature candy coloured palettes and natural light, Mitchell creates images of young black people in gardens, park and in front of idyllic studio backdrops where his subjects appear as free, expressive and vulnerable beings. He creates a  sort of utopia around his subjects that mimic scenarios that are in contrast to what one might acknowledge as reality, bringing a sort of humanity to the forefront. 

The exhibition also premieres two of Mitchell’s video works: “Idyllic Space and Chasing Pink” and “Found Red. ” These are presented as audiovisual installations that explore the senses of play and childlike freedom within the black utopia. His stimuli for the exhibition was based off a younger period of his life where the dynamic site of Tumblr was very influential to the development of his creative vision. “I would very often come across young, attractive white models running around being free and having so much fun — the kind of stuff Larry Clark or Ryan McGinley would make. I very seldom saw the same for black people in images — or at least in the p hotography I knew of them.” I Can Make You Feel Good presents Tyler’s rendition of an earlier Tumblr in a time where it provided creative nutrients inclusive of black youth. The exhibition will run throughout the Spring at the Foam in Amsterdam until the 5th of June. 

Untitled (Two Girls Embrace) 2018, Tyler Mitchell
Untitled (Hat) 2018, Tyler Mitchell

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The Fendi Belt Bag x Astrid S

On their latest venture, Italian fashion house Fendi has joined forces with Norwegian pop star Astrid S for the creation of a short film for the artist’s latest single Someone New. The film, inspired by youth and millennial nightlife features the key accessory from Fendi’s SS19 utility-themed runway being the leather belt bags. Throughout the film, Astrid S is shot under the bright lights of disco balls singing and bouncing to the music of her song with her Fendi belt bag on her waist. The belt bag was originally launched last September during the fashion house’s SS19 show. With a neutral palette of tangerine, charcoal and sands, the accessory is carefully crafted with embossed leather in an effort to fuse functionality and artistry. To shop the belt bag visit Fendi. 

Prada’s Futuristic Linea Rossa Campaign

This past week has seen the release of Italian fashion house Prada’s latest Linea Rossa campaign featuring their signature Linea Rossa logo with a bit of a twist.  The campaign shot and directed by Daniel Sannwald features the duo of models Lineisy Monero and Jun Young who are chic in the Linea Rossa looks from Prada’s SS19 collection. The pieces, all made from innovative, futuristic fabrics are the epitome of ultra-functional minimalism and futuristic sportswear combined with a sprinkle of modern elegance. It includes men’s, women’s and unisex garments that creates slim yet sharp silhouettes that gives the wearer an extra edge for respective occasions. The campaign itself is a technoid take on the classic technique of chronophotography, capturing multiple frames of a motion and combining them in single images. To shop Prada’s Linea Rossa, visit Prada. 

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Fendi #MeAndMyPeekaboo No.9 ft The Quann Sisters

For the 9th episode of their #MeAndMyPeekaboo series, Italian fashion house Fendi has joined forces with the exceptional genetic duo of the New York based creatives The Quann sisters. The short film, focuses on the strength of  sisters’ bond and features the two —  blogger and entrepreneur Cipriana Quinn and musician and music producer TK Wonder prancing around the streets of Manhattan with their Peekaboo bags in hand. 

The  #MeAndMyPeekaboo series began earlier this year featuring 10 iconic women across the world which included names like Kim Kardashian, Kris Jenner and North West. Each episode includes versions of the Peekaboo bags which have been seen on the Spring Summer 2019 runways with an updated soundtrack of Mary J Blige’s Family Affair.  To shop the Peekaboo visit Fendi. 

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Prada Invites – Spring/Summer 2019

Cover Image: The Yoke bag by Elizabeth Diller

On theme with Milan Design Week, today Prada Milano launches a series of projects titled Prada Invites in collaboration with three outstanding female architects. The Italian luxury house has invited Cini Boeri, Elizabeth Diller and Kazuyo Sejima to give their takes on the brand’s signature nylon fabric. For the project they are presented with the task of creating an accessory item for women and each artist produces something of a unique item. Italian architect Cini Boeri has conceptualised a functional bag that can expand and reduce according to its need or occasion; Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima has crafted rather more playful designs with a long version dubbed the ‘daln’ and a curved version called ‘yooo.’ While American architect Elizabeth Diller’s designs — ‘The Yoke’ bag and ‘The Envelope’ garment bag cover a wider range of multiple functions. This new chapter of Prada’s venture is only a small display of their ongoing fascination with multifaceted representations of contemporary femininity. Prada Invites pieces are on sale with several different drops from the end of March until the beginning of May, in select Prada stores across the world. 

Daln bag by Kazuyo Sejima
Bag by Cini Boeri

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Saint Laurent Denim #YSL23 By Anthony Vaccarello

This week Parisian fashion house Yves Saint Laurent released their latest #YSL23 all denim campaign. Under the art direction of Anthony Vaccarello, the campaign features a tribe of models sporting rock and roll inspired looks decked in sequinned bikini tops, frayed jean shorts, denim shirts and jackets with leopard print patchwork, waistcoats and other edgy YSL pieces. With a cast of models that includes Kaia Gerber, Simona Kust, Martina Boaretto, Mads, Mullin, Rebecca Leigh Longendke, Dakota Lindvall, Najib, Rai Langlois and Dylan Christensen, photographer Gary Sorrenti captures the eclectic voices of the fashion house’s denim collection while honing Vacarello’s signature punk aesthetic.  Discover more at YSL. 

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Introducing Gucci’s Zumi -A playfully appealing accessory

Earlier this week, Italian fashion house Gucci’s released one of their latest ventures which features the release of a new handbag. Creative director Alessandro Michele has casted L.A based actress and experimental musician Zumi Rosow as his muse as he created a line of bags inspired by her free spirited, creative spirit.  The bags, dubbed Gucci Zumi are accessories which feature a combination of the house’s signature motifs, being the interlocking G as well as the Horsebit hardware which was replicated from a rare piece of the house’s archives chosen by Michele.

Of course the bag is presented in several different versions —  the sophisticated top handle version, offered in medium and small —  this version is featured in smooth and grainy leather, python, elapse, ostrich and crocodile. The Gucci Zumi Shoulder bag is offered in the sizes mini and small and features the option to detach the leather strap, transforming into a clutch.  Michele also drew inspiration from a vintage 60’s bag for the tote version of the Zumi which was presented at the SS19 show and is offered only in crocodile and lizard skins.  The bag is also included in fun Gucci strawberry prints in the medium top handle and mini shoulder versions.  To shop visit Gucci.

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Illustrating Fashion with Christina Zimpel

Broad strokes, dense colour, a sense of positive circularity to her work – Christina Zimpel is an artist of a wonderfully bold disposition. Being an Australian in New York City, her work has lifted the pages of Vogue Australia to the SS19 handbags (and set design) of Michael
Kors. There is a natural magnetism to her illustrations, often heavily centred around reinterpretations of the runway or figures of fashion. Christina breaks down familiar catwalk looks into bright colour comparisons of ink and gouache (think green against pink, red beside baby blue), or almost-Surrealistic monochrome, creating confident combinations.
Large almond eyes are bestowed on her interpretations, and for all the magnetism of their form and colour, look out with a gentleness: a reflection of the artist? May Christina Zimpel’s illustrative hand continue: she creates illustrations that lift the page through colour and composition.

What do you do for fun, what’s your favourite colour?

For fun I eat and garden and go for walks. My favourite colour is currently
a mossy green. 

What were you good at in school, what were you not so good at?

I enjoyed history and art and creative writing. I did not pay enough attention to maths and biology.


Who were you favourite bands growing up? Who do you listen to these days?
I like the same bands today as I did growing up… Bowie, Roxy Music, Kraftwerk, Prince, Miles Davis, The Clash, Joy Division etc etc. all really great to work to. And my son Lil Jabba!
 

How did you get into art and illustration?
I got into art by suddenly deciding I wanted to draw – so I drew everything I could see around me every day for a couple of years and shared the results on Instagram. Illustration commissions started coming due to that. In the past it might have been harder to get my foot in the door. However, now I have an audience and some great people saw something interesting in me and gave me work which is wonderful!

Describe a day in your life .
I am quite boring especially in winter when I barely leave the house! I work at home so I am up and working at the kitchen table. I can multi task as the dishwasher and stove are close to my brushes and paints. In the summer I get to go outside and do a bit of gardening or walk around my neighbourhood if I need a break.

Your work appears to be shaped greatly by blocks of colour: does colour or form come first for you when you start a piece?
When I’m painting, colour is an important starting point. I have a definite palette and love to work within those parameters. My colour choices come from distant memories when I became really conscious of my surroundings. The sixties pop colours, the clarity of bright reds and greens and pink my mother loved. They form my landscapes. With illustrations I tend to be influenced by the subject matter be it fashion or narratives. Using very bright colours is tricky so I add banal colours to balance them, otherwise you’d get a headache.

Do you doodle?
I love to doodle! That is something I’ve always done.

You are from Perth yet currently reside in New York: do aspects of either Australia or New York enter your work?
Definitely- Australia is a land of bright clear colours and I like the uplifting feelings it gives me, it ties in with the Fauvist paintings I love so much.
New York really gives me so much love for humanity… so many people all the time all living their lives right in front of you. It really comes out in my work – observations of people’s expressions, body language, the heaviness of life.

Does your mind drift as you draw or does drawing help your mind drift?
I have always been the anxious type. Drawing is the best help I’ve found to drift away from my thoughts and tune out the chatter. It makes me live in the moment.  In the UK, the government is increasingly moving focus away from the arts, leaving a potential massive gap in young people’s education of art.

How important is art to you?
When you are exposed to the arts there is something each person will find interesting or beautiful or earth shattering amongst it. All people should get the opportunity to open up their world and find their own creativity or passions. It shouldn’t be a luxury.


You have worked with the likes of the CFDA, Maison Kitsune and Michael Kors: what role has collaboration played in your career?
I was really lucky to work with some iconic brands in 2018. I had the opportunity to draw portraits, landscapes and create brand identities. I had my first merchandise produced – totes and phone cases and T-shirt’s, as well as beautiful look books and interactive displays. It’s been really exciting and it’s giving me hope that I can grow exponentially, and be collaborative, not just work in a bubble.

What was the last thing that made you excited?
The whole thing- I did not see any of this coming!

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“Tim Walker: Wonderful Things” – The Visionary’s Largest Exhibition To Date comes to London

Cover Image: Duckie Thot, Aubrey’s shadow © Tim WalkerStudio

This Autumn London’s largest museum Victoria and Albert is set to host an exhibition on one of fashion’s most celebrated photographers Tim Walker. Titled Tim Walker: Wonderful Things , the exhibition is scheduled to open on September 21st, and will include the largest collection of Walker’s images to date. Curated & designed by leading creative director and Walker’s long-term collaborator Shona Heath , the exhibit will feature 10 new photographic projects which have been directly influenced by the V & A’s vast collection. In preparation for the exhibit, the photographer scoured the museum 145 public galleries, scaled the roof of the 12 acre South Kensington site and explored the labyrinth of Victorian passages below level. Where he encountered , antique jewellery , erotic illustrations, the museum’s largest photograph as well as many other rare artefacts to serve as inspiration for the projects. 

“To me, the V&A has always been a palace of dreams – it’s the most inspiring place in the world. The museum’s collection is so wide and eclectic, and I think that’s why it resonates with me so much. Many of the objects that I saw during my research at the museum made my heart swell and I wanted to try to create a photograph that would relate not only to the physical presence and beauty of that object, but also to my emotional reaction to it. Each new shoot is a love letter to an object from the V&A collection, and an attempt to capture my encounter with the sublime. For me, beauty is everything. I’m interested in breaking down the boundaries that society has created, to enable more varied types of beauty and the wonderful diversity of humanity to be celebrated. Preparing for this exhibition over the past three years has pushed me into new territories, which is very exciting, and I’m at a stage in my life where I feel brave enough to do that,” said the man himself. 

‘Tilda Swinton’, Renishaw Hall, Derbyshire, 2018 (c) Tim Walker Studio

The exhibition will begin with  showcasing over 300 items including short films, photographic sets, props, sketches, scrapbooks and other items from which Walker drew inspiration as well 100 photographs from his previous projects. It will the continue into 10 additional rooms filled with the photographer’s work work inspired by the V & A, his films installations and evocative sets and props alongside the images they inspired.  The exhibition will take it’s bow on March 08, 2020. For more information, visit V & A. 

‘Zo, Kiran Kandola, Firpal, Yusuf, Ravyanshi Mehta, Jeenu Mahadevan, Chawntell Kulkami, Radhika Nair’, Pershore, Worcestershire, 2018 (c) Tim Walker Studio
‘Karen Elson, Sgaire Wood & James Crewe’, London, 2018 (c) Tim Walker Studio

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LVMH Prize Top 8 Finalists

Earlier this year the LVMH Prize announced the top twenty designers selected since it’s worldwide open call for their sixth edition in running. The batch was a diverse group of creatives including London based talents Kiko Kostadinov, Richard Malone and Paria Farzaneh. Kenneth Ize from Nigeria, New York based Caroline Hu among several others who presented their collections last month in Paris at the LVMH HQ for industry insiders. 

Since then, the Prize’s panel of experts including Naomi Campbell, Pat McGrath, Adrian Joffe and Jefferson Hack have narrowed down the list to 8 finalists. The revised list is as follows: 

KENNETH IZE

“At Kenneth Ize we focus on reinterpreting examples of Nigerian craft to create an original perspective on luxury production within textile and fashion. We work with a community of weavers, and also with a variety of artisan and design groups across Nigeria. The label is devoted to the long established traditions of craft and local artisanship, merging a contemporary design aesthetic and new production skills with a specifically local handcraft practice. It is an approach we hope to expand upon to include other design cultures around Africa and abroad. There is the strong belief that in exploring and nurturing existing cultures, one opens up an exciting territory for creating and inspiring future traditions.” 

STEFAN COOKE

The London-based Stefan Cooke brand is directed by Cooke and his partner Jake Burt. The pair are currently working on their Fourth Season, Spring/Summer 20. The combination of Cooke’s subversion of textile techniques and Burt’s skill for silhouette and design underpins the signature style of the pairs’ forthcoming looks. Original techniques and collaboration is at the heart of the process for their work and continues to be a force of innovation.

THEBE MAGUGU

Thebe Magugu is a young designer based in Johannesburg, South Africa. Originally from the small town of Kimberley, he moved to Johannesburg to study fashion design, fashion photography and fashion media from LISOF. After winning best graduate collection, he interned and worked for a selection of designers fashion institutions and retailers. After 2 years, he began his namesake label, THEBE MAGUGU – a South African fashion brand primarily operating within the field of women’s ready to wear.

Speaking about the brand, the designer says, “together with our pillar values of quality, novelty and culture, we constantly seek new ways of presenting women with clothing that both complies with and enhances the everyday. Sleek, forward-looking design intersects with motifs from our continent’s storied past, providing smart, multifaceted clothes as valuable as their woman”.

PHIPPS  – by Spencer Phipps

Spencer Phipps was born and raised in San Francisco. He studied at Parsons School of Design in New York City graduating in 2008 with a nomination as “designer of the year” for his final year collection – an initial exploration of sustainable fashion. He started his career at Marc Jacobs as part of the menswear design team and after, relocated to Antwerp to work with Dries Van Noten as their first American menswear designer. He is currently based in Paris where he pursues his passion for rock climbing and other outdoor activities.

HED MAYNER

The sacred and the traditional are both part of Mayner’s world, as well as a passion for authentic menswear pieces, which he likes to twist and rework. His clothes can be passed on from father to son, escaping the transient nature of designer fashion. Focusing on a substantial and stylish wardrobe of everyday separates, his debut collection emphasizes comfort and self-expression, underlining the universal appeal of archetypal clothes. Addressing the essentials of a male wardrobe -from a sleeveless trench jacket and a pair of loose jeans to a roomy bomber or draped white t-shirt- he roots his sartorial vision within an appreciation of honesty and sincere clothing, as well as an interest in the finer details. Impeccably tailored and constructed, the designer’s clothes are as beautiful inside as they are on the outside, evoking a subtle sense of luxury which must be felt and experienced instead of being seen.

BODE – by Emily Adams Bode

Emily Adams Bode was born and raised in Atlanta, Georgia. After studying in Switzerland, she moved to New York and graduated from Parsons School of Design and Eugene Lang College with a BA/BFA dual-degree in menswear design and philosophy. Bode expresses a sentimentality for the past through the study of personal narratives and historical techniques. Modern workwear silhouettes united with female centric traditions of quilting, mending, and appliqué shape the collections. Each piece of clothing tells a story, and is tailor-made in New York and New Delhi.

BETHANY WILLIAMS

Bethany Williams is a pioneering British menswear designer committed to exploring social and environmental change within her work and working with marginalised parts of society to bring about positive change and social enterprise. At a time in which socio-politics are at the forefront of many designer’s minds, this pioneering designer isn’t just protesting bur rather offering solutions and call-to-actions.  For her collection Women for Change, she has worked closely with female prisoners and the San Patrignano drug dependency program. Bethany Williams, a London-based sustainable fashion designer, focuses our attentions onto women’s rehabilitation for spring/summer 18. For Bethany’s most recent collection she has collaborated with Adelaide House, a women’s shelter based in Liverpool, one of only six such facilities in the country. Adelaide House provides a safe place for women leaving prison with various needs including domestic violence and homelessness. 

ANREALAGE –  by Kunihiko Morinaga

Born in  Kunitachi, Tokyo Kunihiko Morinaga began making clothes in Vantan Design Academy while he was still in Waseda University and launched his own brand “ANREALAGE” in 2003.
ANREALAGE is a combination of the words ”REAL, UNREAL and AGE’’.
The name, ANREALAGE was born from a desire to create real clothes for everyday use while utilizing ultimate dimensions, original concepts, and unique elements. Our collections utilize three key elements. These are “hand craft work”, “conceptual shaping” and “technology” under the mantra of “God is in the details”. In 2005, ANREALAGE won the Design Vision Award For Avant Garde at Gen Art competition for new designer in New York. In 2011, we won the 29th Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix for the best new designer in Tokyo. In 2014, we participated in the Paris Fashion Week, starting with Spring/ Summer 2015. We held “A LIGHT UN LIGHT”, the exhibition with clothes of collections in Paris, in Japan. 

The Prize’s winner , to be decided later this year will receive 300,000 euros and a one-year mentorship program facilitated by the LVMH team. The Prize also acknowledges three young graduates who have completed a course in fashion school by presenting them with an opportunity to join the creative team at one of the houses of the group for a year as well as a 10,000 euro grant.

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Twin Magazine: Infinite Scroll

In a special series of images for Twin, we unpack the idea that perfection is on the surface. In a social media age, nothing is more important than owning your best self on the inside. You know who you are: strong, powerful and empowered. That will never change, but that doesn’t mean you can’t switch it and experiment for kicks – this #betterfacechallenge is served with a wink and a smile. Online is the space to play, take ownership of the fun you can have, all the while knowing that your perfect self is in all your imperfections.

Models Moffy at Storm, Elaine at Nii, Lola at The Squad, Aoi at Tomorrow Is Another Day, Melody at The Hive, Make Up Siddhartha Simone at Julian Watson Agency using CHANEL Vision d’Asie: L’Art du Détail and CHANEL Rouge Coco Flash, Hair Anna Cofone at The Wall Group, Script/Writing Sonya Titus

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Gucci Jewellery ft. Florence Welch -Bohemian Elegance

Earlier this week Italian fashion house Gucci launched it’s new advertising campaign featuring their jewellery ambassador and longtime friend, musician, singer, songwriter, producer Florence Welch. A match made in heaven , Florence is to Gucci as Madonna is to Gaultier or in even simpler terms as bread is to butter. Shot by photographer Colin Dodgson, the campaign features Welch in a retro styled wooden wagon surrounded by a bed of colourful decorative bohemian styled fabrics and furniture as she poses for the camera adorned in the house’s stylised rings, bracelets and necklaces. The artist’s light, nonchalant luxurious mood pairs perfectly with the garments and bijouterie carefully selected from Gucci’s Le Marché des Merveilles, Gucci Ourboros, Gucci Flora and Dionysus fine jewellery collections. Visit Gucci to discover more.

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“The Coromandel Collection” – Chanel’s Ode to Madame Gabrielle C.

Gabrielle Chanel was said to have been one who lived a figurative lacquered box where sailing ships, palaces, flowers and birds plaited in flashes of gold and deep red stood out against the darkness of light. This fantasy landscape meant so much to her that she often wished to always carry this fantasy in a portable form. This was how her love for Coromandel screens was first discovered in 1910 on a journey with her great love Boy Capel. “The first time I saw a coromandel screen, I cried out: It’s so beautiful! I had never said that about any other object,” said Madame Chanel.

The French fashion house which lives in on in her name recently chose to honour their founder’s passion with a high jewellery collection of fifty-nine pieces inspired by coromandel screens. The collection includes twenty-four pieces which are entirely unique with reworked motifs around the themes of floral, noticeably evoking her signature flower, the Camellia; animal, through the bestiary of Coromandel; and mineral, reflecting her love of crystal and gemstones.

The Fleur De Laque Necklace

The designer was undoubtedly greatly inspired by the intricacies of these Chinese Coromandels which often included art of flora and faunas. She would muse upon the screens and attach photographs and drawings to create a sort of moodboard  or theatre in which she would often immerse herself. “When I look at this screen in the evening for example,”she continued, “ I see doors opening and knights setting off on a horseback.”

At the heart of this animal theme, the workshop captures a flock of in flight birds as they appear on some of the designer’s screens in an ornament diamond right that boasts over ten carats. The collection’s gems also calls on the colours of the Coromandel lacquers which includes the greens of the Tsavorite garnet, emeralds and the over thirty-seven carat tourmaline on the “Vibration Minérale” ring; the red spinel on the “Evocation Florale” ring and the ruby beads and deep hypnotic black lacquer transposed onto the onyx. To shop or view the full collection visit CHANEL


The Évocation Florale necklace
Coco Chanel (1883-1971), couturière française. Paris, 1937.

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Balenciaga’s Futuristic London Store Opening

Yesterday Spanish luxury fashion house Balenciaga opened it’s doors in London to a new two story ready-to-wear and accessory store on Sloane Street. The store’s interior design is an exploration of Creative Director Demna Gvasalia’s interest in the look and feel around the idea of diverse retail environments.  The store features a large display case along with a combination of ceiling panel lamps and floor to ceiling with on the ground floor. With a very futuristic feel, it includes grey scaled industrial furniture and columns, aqua green carpets, and glass and metals shelves complemented by minimal wrapped seating. The storefront also introduces a pair of hyper realistic mannequins based on two exclusive models: Eliza Douglas and Takato Harashima.   

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FENDI – Me and My Peekaboo Ep 8.

For International Women’s Day, Italian fashion house Fendi launches the 8th episode in the second chapter of their Me and My Peekaboo series. The series which began earlier this year features 10 iconic women across the world which included names like Kim Kardashian, Kris Jenner and North West.

The second chapter of the Peekaboo series focuses on the bond of iconic pop families. From J-pop stars identical twins Ami and Aya shot in Paris to Taiwanese renowned actress and movie director Sylvia Chang with her son Oscar Wang in Shangai. The latest episode (Ep. 8) features businesswoman and socialite Grace Pen accompanied by her visual artist,  model daughter Jossilyn Pen shot in the Amanyangyun resort in Shangai. The mother daughter duo are filmed enjoying and intimate bonding day with their Peekaboo bags in hand on the architectural ecological grounds which also houses a 15 year tree conservation project in protection of the rich heritage, traditions and sites it holds. The episode includes versions of the Peekaboo bag which have been seen on the Spring Summer 2019 runways. To view the film and shop, visit Fendi.

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Q & A with Millennial Milliner Emma Brewin

Within the past few months you’ve probably noticed that faux fur hats and garments have been trending, from the streets of London, Milan and Paris Fashion weeks, to magazine editorials and cover shoots. Upon further inspection, you’ll probably find out that a great number of these pieces were made by British millennial milliner Emma Brewin. Her clientele has been from the likes of Rita Ora, Miley Cyrus, Adwoa Aboah to Kylie Jenner for Paper Magazine, Vogue USA among others. Brewin has been stitching faux fur outerwear and accessories for these pop culture behemoths from the comfort of her hometown Sandwich in South East England. 

“I really enjoy being out here in the middle of nowhere and doing my own thing,” she says. Twin sat down with the designer for a chat about struggles, inspiration, and the creative direction behind her latest SS19 Campaign shot by photographer Chloe Sheppard.

When and how did you learn to make hats? 

I studied fashion design at university but I suppose I am self-taught in millinery. I made my first hat back in 2013, to match a coat I had made, and now I can’t make a coat without a furry topper! 

What persuaded you to go in the direction of faux fur as opposed to any other fabric?

At university I did lots of studies into what fabrics children find most appealing when dressing up, and fur was a always up there with the first things they grabbed, once I started working with it I completely fell in love, for me it can complete any outfit and make it so much more special.

How long does it take you to make each piece?

It completely depends on the piece but if I am working on a hat I always give myself a full day from start to brushing and boxing up.

What was the direction behind your SS19 campaign and collection? 

When starting a collection I never really have any particular direction, it’s my favourite part of the whole process, the girls and I just make, make and make. Usually producing pieces that we would dream of finding in old vintage shops then playing around with them until they are perfect. The studio is like a fancy dress box of hats, and the ones we dress up in the most are usually the ones we put into production. In regards to the campaign we really wanted to let the hats speak for themselves, which is why (for the first time) we shot in a studio. 

Where, what or who do you look to for inspiration? 

Everything old. 

What has been your greatest challenge since the launch of the label? 

Relinquishing control and not doing every job myself.

Who is the ideal Emma Brewin woman?

Our customers. We really do have the best customers on Earth. 

What’s next for you? 

We have spent January and February locked in the studio making some wonderful new styles, we released a sneak peek of our new Cat Hat on Instagram the other day, and have some matching new accessories to twin with our hats coming very soon.. 

Photographry- Chloe Sheppard

Styling – Clarissa Bowman

Hair – Sinead Gregory

Make up – Lindsay Low

Model – Mimi (Anti agency)

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Homage To Karl Lagerfeld: 30 Years of Photography at Galerie Gmurzynska

Swiss art gallery Galerie Gmurzynska has recently opened it’s door to an exhibition in honour of the artwork of the late Karl Lagerfeld. Many might not have  known that one of the iconic designer’s talents were photography but over the decades Galerie Gmurzynska has worked with Lagerfeld on numerous shows, publications and projects. The gallery is also said to be the very first to put his photography on display. 

“We wanted to honour this long collaboration and this man whom we regarded as one of the last true renaissance genius. We were all incredibly saddened by his passing and spontaneously wanted to show our respect for Karl by remembering our two decades of collaboration, showing a wider public his lesser known passion for photography,” said co-owners Mathias Rastorfer and Krystna Gmurzynska. The exhibition features nearly 50 pieces of Lagerfeld’s work which has been curated  Rastorfer in a way to take it’s audience on a comprehensive journey throughout his body of work.  The exhibition will conclude on May 15th. Visit the gallery’s website for more information.

Cover image: Benicio Del Toro (Hollywood Stars) 2002

Nicole Kidman (1995) by Karl Lagerfeld
Gone with the Wind (1996) by Karl Lagerfeld
Series BodyParts (1998) by Karl Lagerfeld

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MFW: GCDS’ FW19 Troubled Youth

Weekend past Italian streetwear label GCDS presented their Fall Winter 2019 collection in their signature show space in Milan. This season , creative director Giuliano Calza’s inspiration for the collection was a play on the notion of how society’s boundaries and expectations for today’s youth represents a toxin of creativity and imagination. Though quite simple inspiration, the designer wrapped his mind around a rather complicated show concept. The first half of the 49 look collection revealed a cast of models bouncing down the runway in 90’s inspired looks which included cheetah and zebra prints, bouncy pink hair, logo printed coats and lots of vibrant colours. It also revealed the house’s collaboration with pasta company Barilla and toy company Polly Pocket which carried their logos across sweaters. The second half of the collection was when the magic apparently vanished from the youth as a result of having to succumb to social norms and standards. This revealed a cast of models dressed in veils, catsuits, mini dresses, work suits in a palette of black, purple, blue and other dark shades.  This was a simple yet interesting statement made with a simple change of lighting and music. Giuliano Calza often delivers a show which gives you all the fun,  but at the same time never borderlines on costume. He creates these concepts for his consumers which not only makes them want to purchase pieces but also makes them want to join in the story. He creates a narrative which is very much street, and although some may argue at times he may border on cultural appropriation , has not yet crossed the line, especially as a result of his selection of such a diverse casting. This makes you wonder, if by doing so, he’s in some ways subconsciously aiming to challenge the walls down around the concept of appropriation itself.

Cover image: Scott Mason

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MFW: Marni’s Neuroerotik FW19

This weekend Italian fashion house Marni’s Fall Winter womenswear show took place in the same location as the menswear show only a few weeks ago. Guests were welcomed into the space of dim multi-coloured lighting and speakers as they eagerly waited for the show titled “NEUROEROTIK” to commence. As the name suggests, creative director Francesco Risso envisioned the show to be a fantaerotic escape game. A game based on the themes of sexuality, sensuality and mind play. It was about exploring the possibilities of re-directing the mind to think of alternative body parts and even garments as erogenous zones. As the electric soundtrack from the movie The Shining was cued, each piece from the collection walked with a double meaning, gold and silvers chains wrapped around the neck and body, silk pleated scarves which hung from the neck and almost dropped to the floor, skirts with two waistlines, mens blazers and jackets cut in half, and sleeves were slashed. It was a quirky humour sort  which made one marvel at the possibilities of sexuality, the power of the mind and the concept of fashion design as a means of neurotic exploration. Each piece told a story and gave a stimulus to a different conceptualization of what we know as reality with a primary palette of red, black, orange,  white and hints of rhinestones. This woman Risso created around the themes of sexual liberation and experimentation fruited a line of wardrobe components that is in many ways reflective of the feminist zeitgeist we are currently living in. 

Cover image: Scott Mason

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MFW: Fendi’s Farewell FW19

Just yesterday, Roman fashion house Fendi invited guests to their Milan location to view the final collection designed by the late Karl Lagerfeld. There was something to be said about the atmosphere upon location, the screams of the fur protesters on the outside in comparison to the somber mood on the inside, it was an aspect that was very Karl Lagerfeld. How regardless of protests, laws or whatever was happening, the iconic designer had a code which he lived by and carried to his grave, which is something to be respected. 

Of course, the Fendi Fall Winter 2019 collection was an ode to Karl and his half a century with the house. As an apt sound track of Lou Reed & John Cale’s Small Town played in the background, it set the mood for what was to come, a compilation of Lagerfeld’s signature designs throughout time. Starting from the beginning with his classic silhouettes, the first look made it’s debut as a double breasted suit dress with a poignant white bow around the neck. Throughout the collection , the looks featured a various number of different styles and tailoring, the iconic Fendi logo monogram , designed by Karl himself in his ‘Karliagraphy’ font appeared on coats and cabochon buttons there were also floating bow belts, pleated trouser, asymmetric lapels, tulle bodysuits , pointed collars and laser cut leather outwear. Neutral tones of ivory tulle, cognac and beige contrasted shades of sea green, yellow, tangerine and azure. Each piece holding the common thread of the late designer’s expertise. The iconic Fendi Baguette was also transformed into versions of embossed pillow patent, vegetal leather and a multi-strap utility harness. The entire collection was a celebration of Mr. Lagerfeld as a designer whose inception created a whole new era of designers and whose vision helped to shape the Italian house into the brand that it is today. “The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi is fashion’s longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come. When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were richness and beauty of the collection,” to quote Silvia Venturini. 

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