His work with French Vogue, coupled with his intuitive, ground-breaking advertising campaigns for Charles Jourdan shoes, changed the nature of fashion photography. Emphasis on the product was transferred onto the image, and in doing so, a new narrative was established, independent of the product itself.

Bourdin’s subsequent success afforded him additional artistic licence where lurid, eccentric and overtly sexual images explored the controversial themes of domination, violence and death, provoking accusations of misogyny and a morbid pre-occupation with mortality.

Rarely seen images of his work are currently on show at Michael Hoppen Gallery, including a selection from his series for the 1980 Pentax Calendar, which serve as a fitting tribute to an artist who died 21 years ago in relative obscurity, and is considered to be one of the most influential fashion photographers of the Twentieth Century.

Guy Bourdin is at the Michael Hoppen Gallery until 10th March 2012

michaelhoppengallery.com

Words by Dawn Daniels

After ten years and counting, Twin celebrates the designer’s reign with a recount of the looks that have made the label a must have…

F/W 2002

The one that started it all. Elbaz’s debut for the label may seem a bit a more restrained than his most recent collections, however the fur, feminine cuts and luxurious fabrics proved that the Moroccan designer has Parisian chic down to a tee.

F/W 2006

A bit of bow tie never hurt anyone, plus can one really go wrong wearing the Alber Elbaz signature?

S/S 2007

Perhaps a prediction of the pandemic top knot and oversized jewellery invasion that was to ensue, this collection was the quintessential fashion survival kit for the urban city slicker.

S/S 2008

Elbaz’s Spring/Summer 2008 collection proved to be both a critical and commercial success for the label. With pieces mixing splashes of lemon and lime colours, in fabrics of free-flowing silk, fur and sequins, it was like one of those perfectly sunny summer days, only better.

F/W 2008

For Fall/Winter 2008 it was all about excessive amounts of sequins, jewel encrusted hems, and chunky golden necklaces. If clothes could speak, this dress would probably say ‘Go heavy embellished or go home’. We agree.

Resort 2010

Thick acetate-framed sunglasses paired with a tulle tiered skirt and slouchy t-shirt resulted in a Courtney Love circa 1992/bridesmaid outfit hybrid. An unexpected look from the label known mostly for its luxurious cocktail and evening dresses, it’s an Elbazean token of wisdom not to take ourselves so seriously.

S/S 2011

If a decade of his designs has taught us anything, it’s that there is probably no better and more stylish way to beat the heat than in a leather harness, racerback tank and lightweight maxi skirt combo.

Pre-Fall 2012

His most recent collection proved that even after ten years, Elbaz is still at the top of his game. With lashings of jewel-toned colours, patent leather trenchcoats and body-skimming silhouettes, the designs wrapped the feminine, cool and fresh into one highly-covetable package.

When it comes to ruling the Lanvin empire, nobody does it like Alber.

lanvin.com

Words by Carla Seipp

Last Wednesday his Net-A-Porter range, Karl, sparked a global rush for cutaway leather gloves and stiff necked white collars. And thanks to some innovative use of augmented reality pop-up windows, shopping online has never felt so communal. With windows in New York, Paris, Sydney, Berlin and of course Net-A-Porter’s hometown London, this was a truly Twenty-first century collaboration.

While many of the key items sold out in a flash, there are still many covetable pieces, sleeveless biker vests and gladiator sandals for two, that are just a few clicks away from landing on your doormat. If you haven’t already, it’s time to get online with Karl.

net-a-porter.com/Karl

Words by Boudicca Fox-Leonard

Twin recounts our haute couture highlights from Paris…

Alexis Mabille

Proving that haute couture doesn’t have to keep to a demure palette, Mabille punched up the colour factor with his neon designs. Inspired by photographs of Lisa Fonssagrives and Christy Turlington, the creations in fabrics ranging from metallic lame to guipure lace proved that even when it comes to couture, girls just want to have fun.

Bouchra Jarrar

Working with crepe de soie, fur collars and wide-legged tailored trousers, Jarrar’s collection was a take on casual luxe. A bit of tomboy and a dash of urban sophisticate resulted in a whole lot of effortless cool.

Chanel

No couture week is complete without Karl Lagerfeld’s latest mind musings. Taking the double Cs to a more ethereal place this time around (airplane runway, anyone?) resulted in a collection of beautifully hand-embellished pieces in icy blues, ivories and midnight blacks.

Elie Saab

Elie Saab is the go-to designer for anything feminine and delicate, and this season was no exception. Lace and crystal embroidery on nude, pastel pink and pale lemon high-waisted dresses and A-line skirts made being a woman that bit more enticing.

Giambattista Valli

It may only be Valli’s second showing on the haute couture circuit, but the Italian designer proves that he can hold his own among fashion’s heavyweights. With a plethora of expertly tailored feather, lace and embroidered pieces, he’s as couture as they come.

Jean Paul Gaultier

In a beehive and winged eyeliner tribute to Amy Winehouse, Gaultier sent out a collection that was every bit as eccentric and nonchalant as the late singer herself. Encompassing pieces such as back to black shirt-tail hem skirts, leather varsity jackets and silk kimono coats tied at the waist, Winehouse probably wouldn’t have wanted her couture any other way.

Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal

Leave it to the house of Margiela to put an unconventional spin on couture. Rope, braided bracelets and hundreds of pearlescent buttons were turned into  knee-length trench coats, colourful micro dresses, and slouchy blazer and pegged trouser combos, proving that recycled fashion doesn’t have to be drab.

Valentino

It has only taken a few seasons for Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri to fully establish their trademark of girlish and graceful designs at Valentino. Marking a sweet end to haute couture fashion week, this collection of chiffon, lace and tulle in fine floral prints had a glamourised Charlotte Brontë/Jane Austen novel feel to it. Piccioli and Chiuri clearly have a talent for capturing fashion daydreams.

Text by Carla Seipp

Self’s colourful pencil drawings of female subjects from the 1960s, addressing the zeitgeist of passivity and fear during the Cold War, as well as the escapism that entertainment offered during this period, will be on display.

Whilst Self’s work is a thoughtful reflection on the isolation of the individual, consumer culture and politics, the screening of American film artist Kenneth Anger’s 6-minute short film Puce Moment offers an exploration of Hollywood hedonism.

Glasgow-based creative Sophie Macpherson, known for her work on the formation of self-identity through communication, presents an archive of Barbara Hulanicki for Biba dresses for the exhibit, while sculpture artist Clare Stephenson has created digital cut-and-paste martini glass designs as a representation of decadence.

Showing in the Victorian-style interior of temporary arts space The Hidden Noise, House Of Yvonne is an interesting and eye-opening fusion of art and fashion.

House Of Yvonne is on display at The Hidden Noise, 1/1, 24 Hayburn Crescent, Glasgow, G11 5AY, until February 11.

thehiddennoise.info

Text by Carla Seipp

At the opening party for their installation Numéros Privés, a sea of Chanel clad beauties, including Diane Kruger and Alexa Chung,  were transported through ten magical spaces inspired by the brand’s iconic codes. The materials, figures, symbols, colours and coveted objects that make Chanel so recognisable were transformed and reinterpreted.

From a recreation of Coco Chanel’s Paris apartment to a room with quilted leather walls in tribute to the 2.55 bag, Numéros Privés is a magical microcosm of Chanel’s world.

If you haven’t already received your invitation then it’s time to beg, borrow or steal your way into their breathtaking installation.

Numéros Privés by Chanel is at the Wynn Las Vegas until January 28th

Words by Boudicca Fox-Leonard

Those who haven’t been able to grab one of her highly-coveted digital print pieces now have the chance to own a fluorescently bright handbag created by the Greek designer.

Part of her collaboration with Longchamp and now available exclusively at Colette Paris, the totes in 3D prints of lanterns, orchids and aquariums are the perfect excuse to put a bit of Katrantzou in your closet.

colette.fr

marykatrantzou.com

Words by Carla Seipp

Throughout the Seventies and Eighties, Coddington collaborated with her then husband on a series of experimental fashion photographs. The little seen results are now part of an exhibition of Christie’s work at London’s Eight Club.

From hauntingly lit scenes of cinematic glamour to striking and powerful monochrome portraits it’s an opportunity to gaze at the beauty of one of fashion’s most important and enigmatic visionaries.

Willie Christie’s Limited Edition Collection is on show at the Eight Club, London EC3 until 24th February.

Words by Boudicca Fox-Leonard

The Brooklyn-based designer handcrafts body harnesses, belts and other accessories worn by the likes of Lady Gaga. Having founded her blog Garbage Dress in 2008, Bayne already has a strong following for her own sense of style, which is composed of Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens and lots of black. Both her personal and brand aesthetic showcase a penchant for slightly dark and elegant.

Twin talked to the designer about bullfighting suits and the power of blogs…

What is the design process of a collection from start to finish?

I like to make collections that respond to the one prior, often ‘carrying over’ designs. Sometimes it begins with a color, or shape, or specific body part that I want to highlight. A lot of the time, I think of a certain ‘lack’ or ‘void’ – something that I wish existed, or was more accessible. From there I do a lot of sketching. In the developmental stage, I do a lot of image hoarding; I collect pictures that seem to resonate with my current state of mind, and once there’s enough of them I try to look for themes and patterns.

What inspires your designs in general, and more specifically, your F/W 11 collection?

I like to design with my friends in mind, taking what I do and adapting it to something that would fit their style. I like my work to be wearable for a variety of people, so I definitely keep styling options in mind. For F/W 11, I began with the image of a Torrero & his Traje de Luces (bullfighting suit) – the feelings of strength, pride, and confidant finesse. I also used wider cuts of leather to create bolder lines on the body. The colour palate of red, black, and patent black leather echoed that masculinity.

How has your blog helped you develop your brand?

From the advent of my blog back in 2008, I realized that if used correctly, it could become a very effective portfolio of my point of view. I have always posted my own photographic content, and kept the entries based on my life experiences.

Every step of my business development is chronicled on my blog. I think this openness and visual archive has been a huge help. I’m able to share the process behind the product as well as show how my pieces can be worn in daily life. I think its hard for a lot of new labels to establish consumer trust without years of brand history, so in a sense I have been able to create this through blogging.

What are your future plans and projects with  Zana Bayne Leather?

Right now I’m working on my S/S 12 collection which I will be showing in February (I think seasons are unnecessary for accessories), as well as a few collaborations with designers for their F/W 12 collections. Everything is still made by hand by myself & my studio helpers, so I’m hoping to find a way to relieve some of the labour intensity. We shall see.

zanabayne.com
garbagedress.com

Words by Carla Seipp

Celestine Cooney – Fashion Director

My favourite show of 2011 was Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 12. I fell in love with the whole collection, it felt so modern and was executed so perfectly with the combination of traditional lace with sheer tulle and rubber. The use of colour in Spring/Summer 12 was also really inspiring with bright pink and a lucid green popping in a collection of black and white.

I think Simone Rocha is a star in the making. I find what she is doing and the collections she is producing, incredibly exciting.

Naomi Miller – Fashion Editor

I loved the Celine collection for Spring/Summer 2012. It was very chic, the couple of knitwear pieces they did were beautiful and so innovative.

Obviously it’s been an incredible 2011 for Sarah Burton, but I’m also stoked for Olivier Theyskens for putting Theyskens’ Theory on the map this year. I also loved the Thomas Tait show – and loved the styling with the sneakers!